It depends on when you want to swim. If you are looking to extend your swimming season a few months, like from May to September and/or you would like to raise your water temp 10-15 degrees than a 130K heat pump will do the job. The most important thing you can do it to use a solar cover. The heat pump will only raise the temp of the pool approximately .5 to 1 deg an hour and only if the temperature is above 50 degrees or so. So it will take 24 hours to get the pool comfortable and than with a 6-8 hour pool pump run time you should be able to have the water a comfortable 85 degrees or so. Without a solar cover the evaporation will be much higher and you will need to run the heat pump for 10+ hours a day to maintain the desired temperature. If you want to have your pool 90+ degrees regardless of the outside temp and you want it to heat up very quickly, than you definetly want a propane or gas heater. The answer is no. A heat pump requires heat to pump. NJ probably gets a little cold doesn't it? Therefore, no heat to pump. Depending on wind conditions, I would go with a Laars 400LX/LT. HM Louisiana
ANSWER: Stay with the Raypak.
A malfunction with the anti-lock brake system has been detected ( you still have
" normal " braking unless the red " brake " light comes on in your dash )
It could be a fuse , a sensor , or some other problem
I have a 1994 E150 Conversion. But the factory harness is located under the rear of the van to the left hand side and attached to the frame.
What exactly seems to be the problem? Do you have a digital speedometer or analog speedometer?
the problem most encountered with a bad speedo is the gear in the transmission tail cone housing. make sure it isn't stripped the other problem could be the speedo itself. If it's analog then somewhere in there it is stripped out. If it's a logic type then usually the pulse board is gone.
I have a 1985 Toyota Camry. I kind of have the same problem but my battery connection is fine. I have heard from several different people who has looked at my car say its the ignition. I was wondering if that is the problem or what. I also have another question, When I put my blinker and i turn the steering wheel, the steering wheel clicks twice, what soes this mean? Thanks alot i am a new driver and this is my first car so i am kind of worried about things like this.
THE CLICKING SOUND YOU HEAR IS YOUR STARTER SOLENOID CLOSING. ITS NOT THE IGNITION.(IF THE STARTER TURNS NORMAL BUT THE ENGINE WON'T START THEN IT COULD BE THE IGNITION,IGNITION AND STARTER HAVE TWO DIFFRENT FUNCTIONS.) MOST LIKELY ITS YOUR BATTERY AND OR CONECTION /WIRES ETC.
IF YOU STILL HAVING THAT PROBLEM TRY SWITCHING YOUR BATTERY WITH ANOTHER ONE THAT YOU KNOW FOR SURE THAT ITS "WORKING" TRY A FRIENDS BATTERY . JUST BECAUSE THE RADION AND LIGHTS TURN ON IT DON'T MEAN THAT THE BATTERY HAS ENOUGH POWER TO START THE ENGINE.
IF THAT DONT WORK THERE ARE OTHER SIMPLE TEST THAT ANYONE CAN DO TO PIN POINT A STARTING PROBLEM.TRY THAT FIRST.
You can also check the solenoid switch under the clutch pedal shaft. If the clutch pedal shaft isn't pushing that button hard enough, the starter wont engage. When you turn the key, the power will come on, but no start. Two pennies and a bit of duct tape fixed mine.
I have 1992 Toyota Camry V6. I had the exact problem. Just replace your starter. Go on autozone.com. That's how I fixed mine. Good luck!
It isn't very hard, just a little hard to get to the mounting bolts.Jeep CherokeeVery easy, I would make sure and change the bels as long as everything was removed. You, will have to remove the electric fan by removing the two top mounting bolts (trim screws) and un clipping the wiring harness. Also, you will need to remove the pulley (as I'm sure the new pump will have a bare shaft) the auto parts store should loan you a tool to do this with. The whole process took less than 90 minutes on my 98. Good luck
It could be one of many reasons... water pump, thermostat, cooling system to name a few. I had no heat in my car during a very cold spell and had the mechanics do a reverse system flush. (Whatever the heck that is.) But it seemed to work on my car.
I had the same problem with my 95 probe where the mount holding up the alternator came undone and I lost a bolt. I just found an ordinary bolt and nut in a hardware store that fit and now I have no more fan belt squeeling.
== == Car engine fluids are all different colors, for a REASON, so you can identify them. Red is Automatic transmission fluid(ATF). Check the fluid according to the car makers directions. You can find this in the maker's manual that comes with the car, or buy one from the local auto dealer that sells your kind of car. Could also be power steering fluid. Power steering sometimes uses ATF. ---- Certain types of radiator coolant are also red.
Hi, but how now type of fuse for one specific number example fuse number 3 is for radio, fuse number 5 for lights, etc, please help me, tanks
A possibility is that the idle air throttle control is probably sticking. It is on top of the throttle body. I recommend replacement, this should fix your problem. Your question raises more questions: What do you mean by 'kick down'? Are you talking about the Transmission not kicking down? If so.. probable problem is the Throttle Position Sensor on the opposite side of the throttle bellcrank. Otherwise, if you are meaning the rpm wont kick down to normal, then there is a good chance you have a vacuum leak or, as said above, the ISC is gummed up or defective. To check for vacuum leak, disconnect ALL vacuum accesory tubing at the manifold EXCEPT for the Fuel pressure regulator. Plug those manifold ports and try it. Other possibilities are binding throttle cable/ trans cable at the throttle. DO NOT adjUst that throttle stop screw!!!!
Haynes ford Aerostar manual # 1476 has a wiring digram with wire colors in section 12 page 40 i got my manual at auto zone if they dont have in stock ask for them to order one Haynes manual # 1476
The radiator has a drain on the lower right. Sometimes it isn;t easy to get to so I take the lower rad hose off. The trans pan has to be removed to drain the trans.
On the driver's side lower rear of the radiator is a PLASTIC 'drain plug about 1 1/2 inch in diameter. After the car is cool, first open the radiator cap ( you need to twist CCW and push down hard at the same time), Then CAREFULLY with a pair of duck bill pliers or the like, unscrew the drain plug..BE CAREFUL!!!! if you break this plug it is a major pain in the a.. to replace it. Drain the coolant into a proper container and don't spill it as animals and kids love the sweet taste of antifreeze right up till it kills them. When the system is completely drained ( including coolant used to cool the trans),replace the plastic drain plug CAREFULLY
Near the waterpunp (passenger side of engine you will see a "fitting " with a nut and another bolt in the nut.... this is a vent device ...lossen the bolt to let air escape when you add the new coolant. There is also another "vent" on the driver side hose from the radiator.. do the same thing here. The object of the procedure is to refill the system WITHOUT any air pockets. Once this is achieved , make sure the two "vents" are closed. Run the engine with the radiator cap off long enough to insure the coolant level stays right to the top of the radiator fill pipe.replace the cap and insure that the reservoir tank is filled to the proper level. Take a ride then let the car cool down again then remove the cap again to make sure the coolant is still up in the fill neck. Please dispose of the anti freeze properly...nasty stuff!!! Most AutoZones will recycle it for free for you...good luck RONCO
It s/b near or behind the alternator. Follow the hoses. Also, check the vacuum system that runs the valve.'94 Heater door not engagingI am not sure how old this post is, however, I have recently discovered the same experience with my '94 aerostar. The door, is located behind a vacuum assist diaphragm on the engine cover underside, behind the alternator.
It is actuated, from what I can tell, by the action of yet another vac assist dia., located at the heater core hose connection point.
Pull off the small tube at this diaphram, and hold finger over dia. fitting. Press down on linkage of dia. If dia. is good, there will be no release of vacuum. If there is releas to original psoition, dia. is faulty and should be replaced. The same procedure can be done on the door dia. as well behind the alternator.
If all check out o/k, check your vacuum lines from your engine out, perhaps even a carbon build up on the tube.
NEW ADDITION: The "hold your finger on it" test is not always reliable. There is a small grove cut into the vacumn attach point that may allow air to escape during this test. Don't buy the new one (around $20.00 aftermarket, $80.00 dealer) until removing the old and properly blocking the vacumn port, say with plumbers putty or proper size vacumn plug. Push the rod down first, then close off to do leak down test. If the rod slowly "rises", replace the unit, being sure to install with proper orientation, I suggest lightly coating the heater hose attachment with lubricant (vasoline) to ease the installment. By removing the bugger, you can "see inside" the water port and tell if it is gunked up or has a build up of heavy metal deposits preventing it's full closure or opening. When you re-install, be sure to aim the clamps to where you can tighten, or loosen them easily, in the future. To identify this part, it should have three or four hoses running to it (two from firewall and two from radiator. It is black plastic, and has a small vacumn canister attached to it. On the 1996 Aerostar it is located right next to the A/C drier, next to the right fender (looking forward from drivers seat).
The modulator is held into the transmission with a stamped metal "fork" that is bolted into the transmission. Remove the bolt, remove the vaccum hose and wiggle/turn the modulator to extract it. Be careful during the removal because there is a short pin in the modulator that has to be replaced when you put the new one in.
my rice cooker had heat when it was cooking.
Disconnect the battery cable. 2.
Raise the car to a convenient working height. 3.
Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to connector. Note or tag the wiring positions for installation.
On some models it may be necessary to remove the crossover pipe to complete this procedure.
Remove the front bracket from the starter and the two mounting bolts. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter. 5.
Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter front end first, and then remove the unit from the car. 6.
Reverse the removal procedures to install the starter. Tighten the two mounting bolts.
This depends on whether the engine is equipped with a distributor or with EDIS (Electronic Distributorless Ignition System). If EDIS, there is essentially no adjustment. If distributor, you remove the engine cover inside the vehicle and loosen/turn the distributor like any other. Get an aftermarket manual such as Chilton or Haynes for detail of procedure.
I recently purchased a stereo from Best Buy and they estimated the installation cost but they overlooked thre fact that the '93 Aerostar uses only one hot speaker wire and chasis ground. It took three trips to get it right. They added a device that was supposed to interface this but it wouldn't work. They ended up completely re-wiring the front and rear speakers with dual wire all the way back to the stereo. It incolved removing a lot of panels to reroute all of the wires. If your stereo will not operate on using a common ground for all of the speakers then you will have to do this.
Jack the right side of the car up. Take the wheel/tire off. Remove all brake components, undo the pin over the big nut on the drive shaft, get a big enough socket to fit on the drive shaft nut, back the nut out. Pull hard to remove the half shaft. Line the new half shaft up, shove hard as hell to put it back into the transmission, reassemble. Drive and listen for noises. Jack up both the left and right sides of the car, place jack stand on each side, and insure that car is secure. 1) remove the right front wheel 2) get a 1 1/4 inch socket and break bar and you will also need a torque wrench that will go to 180ft/lb for reassembly 3) remove cotter key retaining axle nut to the axle shaft, ask a friend to hold the brake while you break loose and remove the nut. 4) try to push in the axle shaft if it pushes in the continue to number 5, otherwise go to 13). 5) remove the two 17mm bolts that retain the brake caliper, and support the caliper so that it doesn't hang by the brake line( don't want to replace it to do you) 6) remove two 22mm nut holding the two bottom ball joint to the steering knuckle. 7) remove the cotter pin and the 17mm nut that retains the outer tie rod end 8) using a ball joint separator and a tie rod separator break the 2 ball joint and the 1 tie rod loose 9) swing the steering knuckle off of the axle and out of the way 10) using a pin punch or other suitable rod drive the inner C/V joint out to towards the wheel, it may take several hard blows to break it loose but the it will come out easily 11)before reassembly check the condition of the wheel bearing as this is the time to replace it if it needs to be replaced 12) to reassembly just reverse the disassemble described above 13) if you can not push the axle in , then it is frozen to the hub, this can be a bear to get apart, if so do go back to number 5 and do everything else down to number 8) at number 8 also remove the 17mm nut holding the upper ball joint in place and also separate that joint, continue to remove the axle as described and then remove the axle and the steering knuckle in one piece, you will have to suitably support the steering knuckle while driving the axle shaft out of it I was able to you a seasoned piece of oak and a 10lb sledge hammer, but I would suggest taking it to a garage and having it pressed apart, the balance of the reassemble instruction are the same just reverse the disassembly instruction. NOTE, be very careful on cars with anti-lock brakes there is a sensor on the steering knuckle that can be easily damaged
Hey Nick==Depending on what kind of car you have, some parts stores have manuals on your car. If they don't have one try MOTORLIT.COM. GoodluckJoe Libraries often have Chilton books for your model/make. More frequently they will have the big Pro books (Mitchell) and you can copy pages you need. One library I know (Boise, ID) subscribes to AllData online which has professional quality diagrams and instructions online. There is a lot of info on the net for certain cars, but you can't believe everything you read on here. The professional resources above are better, I find. An experienced mechanic is the best resource. good luck
Every 36,000 miles.
Undo the 2 bolts on the bottom of the starter. The starter will drop down, let it rest on the break lines, undo the two starters wires, (the selenoid and the power), 2 connections 3 wires total, grab the starter from the break lines, bring it out and around and it's all yours.
answer for fuel filter. it is under vehicle driver side seating area.
What is pokediger1s password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
What is 103.468 rounded to the nearest liter?
Asked By Wiki User
What is 8 divided by 2(2 plus 2)?
Asked By Wiki User
Where is one most likely to find rocks that have become smooth and rounded?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you adjust timing on 93 aerostar van 3.0?
Asked By Wiki User
How easy is it to remove the two rear seats in a 1997 Aerostar XLT?
Asked By Wiki User
Who was the first inventor to invent the windshield wipers?
Asked By Wiki User
What is tow rating for a 1993 ford Aerostar?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.