Most voyagers' starters are located one the left bank of the block on (the side closest to the radiator) right below the exhaust manifold against the transmission case where it bolts to the engine. the 3 bolts holding it on bolts come through the transmission case and in some cases the lower engine mounting braket depending on year and engine size of your particular application threaded side of the bolts pointing toward the front of the engine (passengers side of car) Be sure to disconnect the battery prior to removing it or any electrical leads attached. good luck!

In the cooler weather we are having, they will probably take longer to come on.

The side effect though has been the temperature guage spiking big time. Only spikes during city traffic, not highway. Oil is fine, radiator fluid is fine. Just those stupid fans don't ever fire up.

If you've got a 4.0 litre engine than you've got a Automatic belt tensioner on the engine. Sits to the right of the alternator. If your belt is loose, than you need to check that the belt is on properly on all the pulleys, or if you have the right belt. If the belt was made for a motor with A/C and yours doesn't have that, then the belt will be to long. Check with your local auto part supply store. Hope this helps...... For info on how to route the belt, get a chiltons manuel and it will have a diagram.

2000 Dodge Stratus V-6 2.5 Liter Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set. Hope this helps! 2000 Dodge Stratus V-6 2.5 Liter Finding the thermostat: Follow the LOWER radiator hose to where it meets the engine. It's in there. Most cars that I've worked on have the thermostat at the end of the upper radiator hose, but not this car. Replacing the thermostat: You need to remove the thermostat housing. (It's the piece that the lower radiator hose connects to.) - You do not need to remove the radiator hose from the housing. - First remove the bolt that is holding a bracket. This bracket just holds some wires in place. - Now remove the three bolts that hold the housing to the engine block. These bolts can be fairly hard to turn, but just keep trying. - Gently pry the housing away from the engine block. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to help pry, but do not scratch the mating surfaces of the housing and the block. - Pull out the thermostat, noting that the spring end goes into the engine. - When you put the new thermostat in, you probably want to use a new black rubber gasket, but you might be able to use the old one if you have no choice. Also, I didn't add any permatex or anything and it seems fine. - I tightened the bolts to 22foot pounds, but this might be a little high. Whatever you do, DO NOT overtighten the bolts. Couple other notes: I first removed the air cleaner cover and tubes to get a little more working room. I also unplugged one wiring harness to make more room. Otherwise, I was able to get my big hands in there. A new thermostat did not fix my problem. Here is a description of the problem I was having and the solution: Problem: The temperature gauge was spiking occasionally, all the way into the red. It would spike up and come back to normal. It would spike usually while in idle, but sometimes while driving. Usually about once every twenty minutes. Things I checked first: - The plastic reservior for the radiator was full to the top. - The electric fans were running, and running on high speed. - The car had working heat. - Replaced the thermostat. Did nothing to help the problem. Problem Found: - Vapor lock. Even though the reservior was full of fluid, it had previously gotten too low and the system sucked in some air. Once that happens, it doesn't matter if the reservior is full, the cooling system will not draw in the coolant. This is because filling the plastic reservior does not pour coolant directly into the cooling system. The coolant is sucked into the cooling system through a tube, like drinking soda through a straw. So the reservior, where they tell you to add coolant, was full but the cooling system (radiator, engine, pump, etc.) was almost out of coolant and wasn't able to draw in any more. Solution: When the engine is cool, open the metal radiator cap that's sticking right up out of the engine. It can be found by following the upper radiator hose to the engine. There is a tall metal tube with a metal cap on it. Pull that cap off (when it not hot) and fill it up with radiator fluid. (I use radiator fluid that's pre-diluted and designed for all makes and models of cars). Idle the car, in park, for about thirty seconds. Stop the engine and put the cap back on. If you're lucky, all the air bubbles are out of the system and you're all set. Hope this helps!

This is a specialist job and needs to be handeled by one, Sometimes the head needs to come off. Take it to a garage.

USALLY it's because of a BAD heater control Valve-butt the hoses can get full of crud & block the flow-ALSO if the Thermostat sticks open the engine won't develope enough Heat.& make sure there is Vaccume going 2 the Heater Control Valve.

It is on the drivers side of the radiator way down at the bottom. Mounted on the body metal. It is a semiconductor electronic device and does not look like a typical relay. I believe it has four wires that plug in with a connector and it has two screws to hold it. The size it aprox 3 x 2 inches and not very thick. You will need to remove the air box to access it. Good Luck

I have the same problem on my Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 1995. Seems to be a problem in Map sensor. I was also told it might be the ECU

Some are in the spare tire area.on a sticker I have seen alot of them on cars - in the trunk-An idea would b 2 call the dealer & ask where 2 find.Some are on the cover that covers the spare tire.

OK First carfully takr off the clip aorund the radio.. this clip covers the radio,vents,and also runs down to the ash tray. remove the 2 to 4 bolts holding in the factory radio. be sure to securley attach the ground to the new radio if not you can blow the radio or run down the battery.. I ran into that problem with my 92 caravan the wire was frayed and blew out my rca out connectors. then just press your clip back on and your done!!! I hope that this helps you.

It is part of the fuel pump module in the tank.

1. pull on the door handle to open the door. 2. hold the door handle in the open position. 3. look in the space between the door and the handle, there should be a bolt head on the handle. 4. tighten it.

Sounds like a poor connection at the battery or starter.electrical connections.

It's probably part of the starter itself. Look to see where the BIG positive wire from the battery goes. I'll bet it goes to a little cylinder that is part of the starter. This little cylinder is the relay and starter solenoid that engages the starter gear into the flexplate as it closes the relay to the starter to turn the engine over. TommyTrouble

If the cable itself is still there get a pair of Vise Grip pliers and you should be able to pull it. If the cable is broken up inside the housing then you will need to remove the grill insert. I have a 92 Corsica and there were 4 screws that held this item in place. Reach up and move the lever that the small cable is attached and the hood should pop up as normal.

Chrysler Corporation does not install inertia switches in their vehicles. It is probable fuel pump, fuse, or relay.

generally starters are located by the transmission so they spin the vehicles flywheel and start the vehicle. so check around the tranny in the front

the starter is under the intake on the 2.4 liter. look between your valve cover and the firewall.easiest way to change it is pull your intake,mass airflow sensor,etc

I believe u can remove the air intake box and a couple of hoses and pull the starter out that way easier, but you will still have to get under the car to get to the starter to unbolt the it

If it sputters before it stalls out, then feels like theres no fuel, the reason would be that its getting air in the fuel injection to find out if this is the case. Look on your fuel injector rail theres a shrader valve(looks like a bicycle cap and under the cap is an air valve like on a bike tire)just open the valve by depressing the center slightly in MAKE SURE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING AND YOUR WEARING SAFETY GOGGLES WHEN DOING THIS as fuel will spurt out while you do this. The best time to try this is when it shuts down while driving you will want to change out the fuel filter if this is the problem and that should solve it.

'Knocking' is a technical term for fuel igniting too early in the combustion chamber.

It can be resolved by adding anti knock additives to the fuel or by retarding the timing at the relevant revs. Most modern engines have built in knock sensors that do this automatically.

Any antifreeze brand from a well known oil company will do. To be on the safe side buy only a well known brand at a service station. Dilute with distilled water 50 percent unless you are aiming at operating the jeep under severe frost conditions, then use it undiluted or according to the producer's recommendations.

plastic is the stuff used to make stuff there are all sorts like acrylic for example and others its properties are many.

you stuff it in your mouth

Get a charging kit from an auto parts store. This should include a gauge (or gauges) and freon. Your '98 uses the new type of freon so you don't have to worry about conversion. Follow the instructions on the kit. You will need to locate the charging ports (high and low side) and put the proper amount of freon in the correct port until you reach the right pressure. You'll need the engine running and the A/C on high while you do this. Don't overcharge - you need to use a gauge.

the clock on my 1996 Dodge Intrepid has an H and M on the right top. Use a pen or paperclip after turning the key until the power comes on, but before ignition. H changes hours and M changes minutes.