i think it was 1955. If you're referring to the fullsize vans, they came with V8's all the way up until the line's retirement in 2003. The first generation (1971-1979) had a LOT of engine options, including the 440 cubic inch. Second generation (1979-1993) had either the Chrysler LA 238 V6, or Chrysler LA 318 V8. Third generation (1993-2003) had either the Magnum V6, Magnum V8 5.2L, or Magnum V8 5.9L. They have ALWAYS had a V8 option; the van line was just discontinued in 2003, replaced with the Dodge Sprinter.
Plugged or restricted radiator
Bad water pump
Defective radiator cap
To replace the switch, you; 1.Remove the upper and lower (black)collunm covers 2. You'll need a t20 torx driver that is designed for removing the tamper-proof screws (3)holding the switch in place. 3.Remove the electrical harness from the switch. 4.Remove the roll-pin(or retaining screw in some models), then remove the tumbler from the switch. To reinstall, reverse procedure.
The coolant temperature sensor on a '94 Astro Van, V-6 is located on the driver's side of the engine, between the 3rd. and 5th. cylinder, between the exhaust manifolds. There are two sensors located in this area. One is the anti-knock and the other is the temp. sensor. It has a two contact wire plug connector, with one of the wires being green that goes directly to the the temp. gauge.
The distributor induction coil may not be sending a signal to trigger the spark. Wiggle that pigtail wire coming out of the distributor boy and see if the engine will start. If it does, then install a new induction coil. The wires coming out of the distributor body sometimes develop breaks. If the dealer doesn't have the coil, then you can use a substitute Mopar part from NAPA, however, the Mopar part doesn't fit as tight into the distributor body as the original part. Plan to pay about $50 for the part. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Save the screws from the original part. If I remember correctly, the replacement screws with the Mopar part are bit short.
First, you need to know for sure which cylinder is used to TIME the motor. Don't presume that you know. Most Dodge engines use cylinder #1, for example. Also be sure that you know which cylinder is which. Typically cylinders are numbered from front to back, in the order in which the connecting rods are sequenced on the crankshaft. In the case of V6, or V8 engines, this typically puts all of the odd-numbered cylinders on one side of the block, and all even-numbered cylinders on the other. 1) Remove the spark plug from the cylinder used to time the motor. 2) Have a friend slowly rotate the engine by hand using a ratchet or a breaker bar and a socket on the front end of the crankshaft. Be sure to rotate the engine in its normal direction of operation. Now is a good time to observe the distributor rotor to see which direction it is rotating (clockwise or counter-clockwise) as the engine is being turned. Here comes the most important step -- the step where most errors occur. 3) Place your thumb over the now-empty spark plug hole as you observe the timing mark on the balancer. AS THE MARK APPROACHES TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC), you may or may not observe pressure building under your thumb. If you do observe pressure, the cylinder is on the compression stroke, and you should stop the engine with the timing mark at about 5 degrees BEFORE TDC. If you do not observe pressure under your thumb, it's because the cylinder is on the exhaust stroke, and the exhaust valve is open. Rotate the crankshaft one entire additional turn, until the timing mark again approaches TDC. You should feel pressure now. Many shade-tree mechanics simply forget that the crankshaft goes around TWICE for every combustion cycle in a given cylinder. They assume that the spark-plug should fire every time the timing mark is at TDC -- when in fact this is only true HALF of the time. 4) Now that you've verified that the timing cylinder is on its compression stroke, and you've set the crankshaft to 5 degrees BTDC, identify the distributor cap TERMINAL at which the distributor ROTOR is currently pointing. Rotate the distributor slightly (as if you were adjusting timing) if necessary to get the rotor pointing DIRECTLY at any given terminal. 5) Attach the timing cylinder's spark plug wire to the terminal identified in Step 4. Continue attaching plug wires in the direction around the distributor cap that you identified in Step #2 above. Follow the firing order that is found in your service manual, and which is sometimes cast or stamped into either the intake manifold or a valve cover. Your engine is probably 1-6-5-4-3-2. Check to be sure!!! The first wire (after the engine was properly positioned in Step #3) goes from the #1 cylinder to the distributor cap terminal at which the rotor is currently pointing. The next cap terminal CLOCKWISE from there gets wired to the #6 cylinder. The next one to the #5 cylinder, etc. 6) The engine should now be close enough so as to be able to be started, and the timing adjusted using conventional methods. [add answer]
I replaced a water pump on a 318 in a 95 pickup today it may be similar. 1st drain the radiator Disconnect the battery & then you have to get the fan off. Do this by putting a wrench on it and then taping the wrench this acts like an impact hammer. If you try and turn the wrench everything moves. Once the fan is removed pull it out if there is room, if not proceed to take the fan shroud off (should be 2 bolts on each side)and lift it out with the fan in it. You should disconnect the coolant overflow hose from the radiator and slide the window washer fluid tank (if it's attached)up off of the shroud. 2nd unloosen the water pump pully bolts(4) but do not remove. 3rd remove the belt and now you can take the bolts out of the water pump pully and remove it. 4th disconnect the heater & radiator hoses, remove pump bolts and pry pump off. You may have to buy a separate heater return tube if one does not come with the new pump. I almost forgot, some of the pumps have a pressed on pully so you can eliminate some of the work above. later John
The starter relay operates the starter soleniod. The relay is located on the firewall at about the 8 O'Clock position looking at the brake booster. It has 4 wires in one connector going to it.
If it won't crank it could be a bad connection, make sure the battery terminals and cables are clean and tight. If it kind of clicks and turns over, or maybe stops turning and clicks again, you may just have to jump it.
A single hard click with each turn of the key, could be a failed starter. Repeated fast clicks would be an indication of a weak battery or dirty cable connections.
Water pump replacement on the 98 requires a special air tool. You need a fan removal tool which requires an air hammer. If you try without it you will bust your knuckles. The fan pully can't be held by typical fan removal tools so you need the air tool. Save the money on bandages for your busted knuckles and buy the tool. The manual says you should remove the shroud to get the fan out, but I managed to get it out without removing the shroud.
I would also recommend using an air ratchet to remove the water pump bolts. There is a lot of stuff in the front and not a lot of room so not having to move your hand really helps. The next problem is the heater hose outlet. It's a hard pipe that comes off the water pump. Use a torch to remove it. Reinstall it on the water pump using the o-ring and as much copper form-a-gasket as you can get in there. You don't want it to leak or blow steam. Past those problems it's a typical water pump change. Make sure you get a paper gasket and liberally apply the aforementioned form-a-gasket to seal the paper gasket. You don't want to have to do it twice.
Lastly, when reassembling the system, make sure the heater hose outlet is firmly attached to the engine with the bolt on clip. Do not leave the clip unattached because the pressure in the system will be sufficient to blow it out. Second degree burns are no fun and anti-freeze is ten dollars a gallon. Don't burn yourself and your paycheck by trying to save a step.
I you folks.
it is the little elbow with the hose on it sticking up out of the valve cover
driver side under engine. follow the lead from the positive battery terminal to the bottom of your vehicle to the starter. Depending on your year this is a very simple replacement.
for How you can install the oil sending switch?" I take it that we are talking about an oil pressure switch wich located near the oil filter?
The right way to do this with a special socket or boxwrench, sometimes they are easy to reach and sometimes they put up a fight. Make sure you have the right sender remove the old one, install some plumbers tape on the thread, finger start the sender and tighten it, (not too tight) start the engine and check for leaks
In a sense it is. Both are derived from the LT-1 found in the Camaro/Firebird and Corvette. The Caprice LT-1 and it's little sister, the 4.3 V8, have cast iron heads and aside from the differing bore sizes, it is the same block. Both offer the same features, such as reverse cooling, the Opti-Spark ignition system, etc, but the the 4.3 is rated at only 200 HP, versus the 5.7 at 260 HP. You can probably interchange most parts - performance and otherwise. Hope that helps.
front or rear wheel drive?
First locate the belt tensioner. On the 3.0L (88 - 90) it takes a 1/2 inch breaker bar to release the tension lift the breaker bar towards the top of the engine (Counter Clock Wise). On 3.3L and 3.8L you pull the breaker towards the front of the van (Clock Wise). Here are a couple pictures [http://www.goodoil4u.com/images/Serpentine_Belt1.jpg Belt 1] or [http://www.goodoil4u.com/images/Serpentine_Belt.jpg Belt 2] Good Luck and Remember.
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Generally you have to take off the thermostat housing (where the top radiator hose attaches to the engine) you need to unclamp and remove the hose then the housing normally 2-4 bolts then it will be underneath. You can get a new one at any auto parts store.
IT IS LOCATED IN THE FEUL TANK.
Hey Dude: You can turn your dome light off in your van by turning your headlight switch (or dimmer switch ) all the way to the right. Left turns on your dome light, so go the opposite all the way till it clicks. It will now stay off when your door opens. .
>> On my Dodge Ram Van Class B motorhome, you raise the arm rests all the way up to the stop, then push in and continue rotating toward the rear of the seat.
The above note helped me.
>>On my Chevy Tommy 1987 Class C RV the seat arms were removed the same way with no tools needed. Thank you for that previous answer.
you pull UP on the handle to latch the door, may have to pull hard. Slamming may latch also but is not the correct way.
.035 or .040, depends on year.
I would first check either the controls to the front heater core or a blocked front heater core. It could also be a blocked or missing heater hose to the front heater core, although that seems quite unlikley.
If this has the small filter witch they usally do it will take 4 1/2 qts. Just put the oil in and check and add accordingly.
I had a 97 and if i remember its either held on with torx screws or you can pop them off by i think pushing down and pulling out. Not completely aware, sorry.
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