Pass side front to back 2-4-6-8
Driver side front to back 1-3-5-7
The Price of used Dodge trucks varies by year,condition and where are are to purchase said truck.A Used Dodge truck from 2010 goes for an average of $24,999 this value decreased for every year and mile put on the truck.
You can get the 2005 DR Manual here:
The 2006 DR Manual here:
http://www.hemitruckclub.com/Manuals/2006-DR.zip (180 MB)
You can get earlier model years here:
And you can get Power Wagon specific info here:
4th gear is overdrive. the computer locks out overdrive until the transmission fluid is up to normal operating temperature. once up to normal temp, the vehicle will shift into overdrive and all is well. there is only a problem if the vehicle does not shift into 4th AFTER reaching proper operating temperature. The thinking is that the transmission warms up faster in 3rd than it would in 4th (overdrive). I believe this type of control is due to environmental laws, or fuel consumption considerations. what confuses me is that the recommended operating procedure when towing or hauling is to manually lock out overdrive in an effort to keep trans fluid cooler. here you have specia controls built into the vehicle to warm up tans fluid faster by using 3rd gear. then, once up to normal temp, you need to lock out 4th because trans fluid will run cooler in 3rd. very odd. I been trying to find out why this is for a long time.
Pipe wrench or channel locks right tight left lose
on the drivers side by the injector pump
take the vin to departmen of moter vehicals drive safe
1994 Service Manual states 13 ft lbs.
Alot of idle problems can be narrowed down to three categories: airflow, gasflow, or vacuum. I have found on most of my dodge vehicles that vacuum tends to be the prominent problem, and going over all the vacuum lines can normally show the problem. Checking your spark plugs, wires, distributor, and idle air control is also a good idea.
That is a necessary evil thanks to the EPA. A diesel truck won't pass emissions without one. Chevy and Ford have them too, they catch the black soot that diesel engines are famous for and store it. When the filter gets full the truck injects raw fuel into the filter to re-burn the soot, Unfortunately dodges think they are full all the time and have a steady stream of diesel pouring into the exhaust helping you burn that $4.00 a gal fuel. But it could be a Ford and shoot a 10 foot flame out the exhaust burning up the RV or load of hay your pulling.
Most dash lights have a setting knob to turn the dash lights on and off and to dim them, maybe this switch is off.
BAD INJECTORS ON NEWER MODELS ????
If it is loosing the seal around the top of the window, use a strip of paper or a dollar bill and shut it in the door where you think it is not sealing tight from the outside of the truck, pull the bill out. If it comes out easily, then roll down the window with the door open, put your knee into the door and use both arms to pull on the door frame where it isn't sealing tight. This was the suggested fix from my local ford dealer when I had fords. It did work. They said it is caused from slamming the door. They had seen chevys that had popped the paint off the door panel from the flex in the door when pulling it shut and slamming it.
normally, a gas engine run at 180 degrees(any),if you no sure check the thermostat opening in degrees.
Stock thermostats run at 200-210 degrees which is standard for most vehicles past 1990. However, 180 degree thermostats are available and popular.
I replaced mine in about 6 hours and took some photos of what is behind the dash. Take your time on the dash removal and be sure not to break anything, so as not to make added work for yourself. The dash removal was not that bad in my opinion. Pull the heater lines and A/C lines, you will need the quick disconnect tools from an auto parts store to get the lines apart without damaging them. There are nuts under the hood on the firewall that need to be loosened or removed, I found it easier to remove the nuts and pull the heater and A/C assembly. Be sure to replace the receiver/dryer too and don't allow any dirt to get in the A/C lines. If you need to cut any lines use a tubing cutter. Don't cut any lines that you don't have replacements for. Once you get it back together you will need to evacuate the air and moisture from the system with a vacuum pump. If you don't have a vacuum pump now may be the time to take your vehicle to a shop that has one, I can't imagine they will charge you much to pull a vacuum. Then charge the system with the correct amount of freon.
I am not sure about the 2001 trucks but on my 1998 Dakota the entire dashboard had to be removed......Dealer costs. - a whopping $1100.
it should be on eather the driver side or pasenger side valve cover
Left exhaust manifold.
If the grinding sound seems to be coming from the speedometer and grinds faster as your speed increases, the likely cause is the speedometer cable. At least some 1990 Dodge trucks (mine) have electric speedometers Len
Do you have it chipped? Do you change your fuel filter regularly? bad fuel? Sell them when they are off warranty and let dodge worry about the rest!
Here is a links that may lead you to an answer. There are a lot of dodge freaks that may be up to speed on your situation. The first link is the general dogde BS, and the 2nd one is more defined for you regarding tech talk.
If you have removed the 2 screws in side the bed at the tailgate and having problems getting the light cover off. The best way that I have found is to spray some WD40 up in on the 2 rubber posts that are inside behind the light. This should make it just pop right off.
first you need to find out if its the gauge or sending unit in the tank ,the wireing ext....inspect the wiring for breaks ,check the sending unit (see factory repair manual ) check dash gauge (see also factory repair manual)sometimes the float on the sending unit will get a hole in it and sink the sending unit ...then the gauge will read out as empty
the first thing you should do is take the truck to your local tire shop and have your tires balanced. while on the balancer look at the tire to make sure it is round. the bump may have bent the wheel or broken a belt in the tire it self. the tire shop will also check the front end You have worn suspension or steering parts. Inspect them ASAP. You may have bent a wheel rim. That happen a lot on 94-02 It is called the Dodge Death Wobble This is the first I have heard of on a 1st gen.
The king pins are probably wore out. Maybe a tie rod is bad. This happened on my 1997 3500 Dodge Cummins and a tie rod had quite a bit of play in it. Had it replaced and had no more of that.
At the steering column where it goes into the knee blocker. Look under the knee blocker and you should see the fuse block. The panel held on by 2 screws around the column hlods the fuse block.
These aren't exactly directions on removal. It's more of a warning, really. Assuming you have the same setup as I have in my '99, There are a few things you want to consider before hacking away at the dash, bending your elbow nin ways just to get to one 8mm sheet metal screw, or realizing that Chrysler put WAY too much emphasis on tamper resistant torques. The one major obstacle in your path would probably be the passanger-side air bag. You'd be amazed at the damage one of those boys'd do. Having been an auto tech for over seven years, fully licensed in a/c and all that junk, I have to tell you - shops charge for a reason. Your first step will be dropping the gove box. No big deal, just squeez on the sides of the box, and the little rubber pads should pass the stops. That big, black shiny/dusty thing behind the glove box is your evaporator/heater core box. As you will no doubt notice, it won't fit throug the gove box, and getting it out under the dash will be as impossible as replacing vacuum lines on an '84 Honda, with no schematic and no old vacuum lines there as reference. No, I'm afraid you will ost likely have to at least loosen the dash to just life it out of the way. Here's where the airbag issue comes into play. There's a fuse to be pulled, the battery has to be discinnected, all sorts of hoops to jump through to ensure that you a) don't get a face full of airbag and that dash panel that overs it and, b) don;t have that damned airbag light on when you start the truck. Another thing to remember is that if the evaporator core is leaking, something probably helped it happen. Like moisture in the system. Chances are, you have another problem somewhere else in the system that could use attention. It may have been pressure that caused the evap to leak. it may have been contaminants. either way, after replacing the evap, you HAVE to perform a drain, evacuate, and leak test of the system. Wouldn't it suck to replace the evap, hope that those little canisters you bought at Autozone are enough, and then turn on the a/c to find..... nothing. The system MUST beput into a vacuum before the refrigerant is introduced into the system. The reasons are analogous the the relationship between engine cooling and cooling sstem pressure. For every pound of pressure on te cooling system, the boiling point is raised 3 degrees. The same is true for an a/c system. if there is air, moisture, another leak, anything tat will not allow the system to draw a vacuum of 22-30 inch pounds, the system will behave poorly. Especially with R-134a, but that's another story. I quit being a tech almost a year ago, because I realized something. Todays vehicles are designed for the automotive garage, not the house garage. Changing the evap at home is possible, and may be cheaper than taking it to a reputable, AAA certified repair facility, but I would advise against it. And, please remember. Anything resembling instructions I've given here are not to be taken as such. These are guidlines to let you at least see what you're in for. And, if by some odd chance, this question was posted by a technician.... use the books/computer in the shop. If there aren't any, find another shop to work in.
170 hp 260tqe
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