Nobody ever mentions an egr valve replacement..this is common in gmc vehicles...Rough idle,stalling, ignition starting trouble all relate to the egr valve sticking...
Your problem is a misfire. You need to do a misfire diagnosis and then correct the cause of the misfire. If you have allowed the misfire to continue for too long, engine damage may have occurred, but otherwise correcting the cause of the misfire should set everything right.AnswerUnfortunately it could be a number of things causing rough idle and hesitation. It sounds like the engine might be confused about how much gas and air it is getting which might mean it needs a new oxygen sensor (EMISSION) or throttle position sensor. Start with the easy maintenance items like spark plug wires, air filter, and fuel filter if they have not been replaced recently. A bad spark plug wire may only occasionally short out and cause these problems. Try looking under the hood in the dark with the engine running and see if you see any electrical arcing around the spark plug wires or just go ahead and replace them if they are old. www.RockAuto.com AnswerIt might just be a clogged fuel line/injector/ or pump, try to put some fuel cleaner in tank the next time you fill it up and see if that helps. AnswerThere are about a million and a half things that can cause this some minor, and some quite serious. First off I would have to agree with both of the previous answers but I would also have to check out a couple more things such as the MAP censor,and the o2 censor. Also adding a can of "Sea-foam" to your gas really couldn't hurt either. Good luck AnswerCan low idle speed cause this too? AnswerMy car idled rough onced and shook horribly through the whole car when I accelerated or was just pressing the gas. When I let go it would go away for a sec then come back. I put fuel system cleaners in a few times and that didn't help. After I had replaced my spark plugs it still was rough.
I found later that there was a mis-alignment(TWO PIPES WERE NOT CONNECTED) in my exhaust pipes and the flow of exhaust was interrupted. Which was the cause of the shaking.
So check you exhaust for a funny noise that could be an interruption in the exhaust system. In my case some of the exhaust was leaving toward the engine with a powerful force and shook the car where the engine roughly is, which lead me to think it was the engine.Answerspark plug fouled or coil pack bad Answeracura integra ls 1994. my problem was the spark plug wires they looked ok, but were wore out.
could be coil pack, head gasket, fuel pump, or bad injector
RockAuto gave the most extensive answer, sorry, but you have to start with the basic's. A good way to check your EGR : start the enging, stick your finger under the EGR; you should be able to feel the diaphragm. Tap the throttle a few times. If the diaphragm moves, it's probably good. Secondly, nobody mentioned vaccum. Fill a spray bottle with water and spray all around the intake. If the engine idle changes, the problem is an intake gasket. Your idle will be rough, then smooth out. Check all your vaccum lines too! These are all things you can check without doing anything to the motor.
You may consider buying a scanner and pulling your codes. This will tell you the circuit your problems are in.
If you pull the o2 sensor, sometimes they are clogged and you can clean it and put it back in. But for the trouble of raising the hood, replace it while you are there!Answer
I have a '99 Hond a Civic LX and my car was also idling rough and 'sputtering'. The mechanic used some 'Seafoam' on it and that helped a tiny bit. Then he said it might be the a/c compressor clutch. But compressors usually last a long time. I also noticed it only sputtered when my A/C was on. So the problem was with the A/C. I tried adding a little freon thinking it was low since it had never been recharged in 115k miles. This did little to nothing. I added some PAG oil and this helped more. The A/C would get cold for a few minutes and then heat up and go back to sputtering. So I had a free A/C check done on it and it was the condenser fan assembly. Apparently the motors go bad after awhile. It was getting stuck and not kicking on and that was what the sputtering was from. So they hit it with a hammer and it kicked right on and now it is super cold. So whenever the motor on the condenser fan is completely shot I will buy a new one but for now it is fine and working. By the way, you should never try to add freon or PAG oil yourself because then the levels are off and might put too much pressure on the A/C system. My next step is to have it evacuated and recharged and I'm good to go!
On ALL 351 Ford V8s, regardless of year and engine family, the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. The distributor spins counter-clockwise and from above the engine, the cylinders are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4 on the passenger side from front to back and 5, 6, 7, 8 on the driver side from front to back.
I will try to explain in the simplest way. a) You need to know the cylinder nos first. Then Follow the spark plug lead from plug towards the distributor cap, mark that # on the distributor cap. b) next take off the distributor cap. c) rotate the engine slowly in correct direction (in which your engine rotates when it is running). d) now the rotar in your distributor with rotate too. Observe the order in which it passes by the spark plug lead. This is your firing order.
Sometimes it is cast right in the block of the engine in letters. Sometimes it is in the owners manual. It is usually in a shop mechanic book. You can also find your particular order online by make and model and year.
99 Mercury Mistake firing order is: 1-2-3-4 facing engine left to right on coil: top left 1 top right 3 bottom left 4 bottom right 2
look on thetop of the intake manifold
it's always there number hyphen
number hyphen so on
its not always there... but some times you get luck with that...
If you don't want to buy a manual for your vehicle which you can get at most auto parts stores now for around $9-$15, Most public libraries carry these books on the shelf or for those without home internet service, you can use theirs either free or very cheap.
Check out the following website link:
This shows the engine firing order for each spark plug. The newer Distributor Caps have the spark plug number, so if you know which is number one on the distributor cap and on the engine, and so on, you are good as gold.
Also, when removing the existing wiring, you should also replace the distributor cap and rotor. It is usually a good idea every 50,000 miles.
The firing order of a 1992 Ford 351 V8 is as follows: Firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On the distributor,it goes counterclockwise (CCW). Passenger side is cylinders 1-2-3-4 (front to back). Driver side is 5-6-7-8 (front to back).
If you live in an area that has a local autozone you can call them up and they can give it to you. If you do not leave me your vehicles make model year and engine size and i will get it to you as fast as i can.
It is almost always stamped on the top of the intake manifold or on the engine block itself.
The quickest way to find the correct firing order without looking around the engine (especially dirty and oily engines) is to call your local auto parts dealer (Autozone, NAPA, etc.) and ask them. All you need is the general engine and car specs.
I have a 1993 Saturn SC2 Coupe, and got my wires mixed up when I was replacing them. I called AutoZone and the guy told me that the firing order is 4-1-3-2. I installed the wires in this order, started up the car, and it idled VERY roughly. I immediately shut it off and called a local Saturn dealership. The guy in the service department told me that the correct firing order is 4-1-2-3. I reconnected my wires and it started right up and idled perfectly. A word of caution: many times "the guys" at your local auto parts stores can point you in the right direction, but they are not necessarily the experts. If you ever have questions like the firing order, go straight to the source. Call the experts at the dealership for your car's make.
That depends on what size engine is in the truck. Sorry, but before that question can be answered we need that information. A 318 has about 260 horse power.
You can get the 2005 DR Manual here:
The 2006 DR Manual here:
http://www.hemitruckclub.com/Manuals/2006-DR.zip (180 MB)
You can get earlier model years here:
And you can get Power Wagon specific info here:
My guess would be a faulty temp senser Fuel injection systems have contstant fuel pressure all the time the ultimate end of the line for the fuel system is the injector nozzle, This is were the system is sealed. when a fuel injector is in the closed position it is like turning off a valve nothing should be passed through the fuel injectors and the pressure in your fuel rails should not fall off very much all day or night or for several days. An injector that has contamination will fail to properly seal this allows the fuel to continue to spray, drizzle, or drain into the engines cylinders when the vehicle is shut off it will begin releasing the pressure from the whole fuel system into your engine. this produces the flooding and hard start cycle, and it is more evident when the vehicle is restarted only from being shut down for 2-10 minutes to get a coffie or do a short errand. The leaking fuel has not had time to evaporate and will cause the engine to flood out. fooding remedy, check your fuel system to see if it is holding the proper fuel pump pressure, and if it is not then you probably have fuel injectors leaking down, This is the best place I have found to purchase fuel injectors from. www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com they sell them ready to install very reasonable and mine are still working perfect in my vehicle today.
not that critical 0.8mm or if you dont have feeler guages the back side of a hacksaw blade will do ( the side without the teeth) the standard contact breaker gap is 0.12mm - 0.13mm rotate the rota so the points are fully open then insert the feeler gauge realese the locking screw so that it shuts on the feeler gauge then lock the screw off (just nip tight as it can break real easy)then remove the feeler gauge then your done. i know this as i have done so many.
The Dodge 383 is not a stroker like a Chevy small block engine. The 383 was a factory offering from Chrysler, and is one of the "B" series engines. It is very similar to the other Chrysler big blocks like the 413, 426, 400 and 440.
inline six 1,5,3,6,2,4 for a v8 1.8,4,3,6,5,7,2 for a v6 1,6,5,4,3,2
inline six ( cyn ) start at front goes 123456 for v8 start at drivers side cyn numbers 1 3 5 7 ( L/H side )2 4 6 8 for v6 at drivers side 1 3 5 L/H side 2 4 6 inline 6 distributor rotation clockwise for 318,360 eng v8 clockwise for 400,440 eng v8 counter clockwise for v6 clockwise rotation you
If It's 4x4, it may be in Neutral in the Transfer Case, or may need to have trannny checked out.
the firing order for ALL Chevy V-8s are as follows 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
the driver side of the motor are odd numbers (1-3-5-7) # 1 being at the front the passenger side are the even numbers 2-4-6-8 3 #2 being at the frontAnswerYour firing order is writen on the front of your intake manifold behind the inlet hose for your radiator. your cylinders are also numbered on your manifold.
if you take off the windshield wipers by removing the nut that holds them on, you can then remove a bunch of Philips head screws from the plastic section under them. you may have to pop off a couple plastic covers on the left and right sides. you will also have to remove a rubber liner thingy (you'll see what I'm talking about if you try to take the plastic off). you can use pliers to squeeze the bottoms of them and just pull them up. after that just reach back where you see the arms and put the pieces back together. more than likely one of the ball and socket joints just came out. good luck!
i believe that the power wagon from this show was a 1979 1979 There were at least two trucks used in production of Simon & Simon. One is a 1979-1980 model. The two model years were identical, and it was used in early seasons. The second had a 1981 cab and fenders and is identifiable by the "L" shaped roll bar supports, where the '79-'80 model had slanted supports. this was a factory "Macho" power Wagon. It also the horizontal line in the body starting at the door, and extending to the front of the truck, a body design change incoporated into the 1981 and newer trucks. This truck had an older ('80 - ) bed, and was used in later seasons. You can also notice the wheel cutouts in the front fenders are different than the '79-'80 model. There was less of a rounded contour around the cutouts.
Probably be cheaper and easier to do a service exchange. Give your old one in and get a recon one in exchange from your local motor factors. hope this helps
Best guess is around 5600 lb
go to www.naxja.org or www.jeepforum.com and do a search for "neutral safety switch. There will be links to jeep owners sites that have detailed instructions
Fan shroud first, then alternator, then ac, then there are five bolts surrounding the water pump before removal. Make sure you have thermostat gasket because you will crack it on removal. There are several ways to make this job simpler depending on how much time you have on your hands. Removal of the radiator will save you alot of back breaking and bending. that's only four bolts and the cross member is only two. If you spend 20 bucks on a Chilton's it has step by step removal and replacement.
You will be stirring up a lot of engine gunk by doing this. Make sure you flush the system while you have it all apart. Strongly recommend a new thermostat while you have it all torn apart.
This is a single case O' beer job...per person
I came on and looked over these answers and was not happy with what I found.
Having just completed the job, here is how I did it. KEEP IN MIND: I have the 8.0 V10 in my Ram 2500.
It is VERY simple, much more so than any other water pump I have dealt with. (Only took three beers, but I'm a slow drinker.) The entire job should not take more than an hour and a half, including tool gathering and clean-up.
You'll need a standard metric socket set with an extension, a prybar, a 5/8 socket, a bucket, a good sized pair of pliers, and a large crescent wrench (1' or more). You will also need some petroleum jelly or similar lubricant. You'll need replacement radiator fluid, too. I'd just flushed my system, so I filtered mine through a washrag and re-used it.
It's common sense, but wait until the engine is cool before doing this job, a bath in hot radiator fluid is not pleasant. Also, be sure to pick up all your tools out of the engine compartment, nothing wrecks your day like having a tool rattle free, catch the fan and go through your radiator. (My Brother-in-law did this, and it was hilarious.)
Drain the radiator into the bucket. Remove radiator cap to get as much out as you can.
First, use the crescent wrench to loosen the nut holding the fan to the water pump. I wedged the prybar between the pulley and pump to keep pulley from turning. (I am not sure the size of this nut since I did not have the wrench for it.)
Be careful if you take fan all the way off to not get it into the radiator.
Then remove the radiator shroud by pulling the four screws. It won't come out yet.
Pull the fan out from between the radiator and the shroud. Then you'll be able to wiggle the shroud out no sweat.
Now use the 5/8 socket to torque the belt tensioner and remove the serpentine belt. (Check it over and replace it if needed.) My truck has the diagram sticker. If yours doesn't sketch it out on the parts box if you think you won't remember how it goes.
Remove the left and right hoses. There will be more fluid in the left one. The top won't come loose yet, so don't worry about it. Just get the clamp out of the way.
Remove all the bolts. The top star bolt is a bit of a pain as the socket gets caught, so do it last.
Now pull the pump loose from the engine and then the top hose.
Make sure there isn't any trash in the hole.
Take the new pump and lubricate where the hoses will attach. Also put some on the O-ring. (Otherwise it won't stay put. You don't want to be tightening the fourth bolt and see the O-ring laying on the ground under the truck.)
Re-attach the top hose. Stick the pump in the hole, make sure the O-ring is in there right. Replace the bolts. The two shorties go on the bottom, and the star on top. Use the tire method so you don't torque it down crooked.
Re-attach the other hoses.
Get the serpentine belt back on.
Wedge the shroud back in.
Slide the fan back in and get the nut started.
Secure the shroud in place.
Tighten the fan nut.
Replace the fluid. Restart engine and let it run a few minutes. Top of the fluid again and refill the spare tank.
How this helps make things easier.
Or secondary voltage jumping from coil tower to primary [ballast side] terminal.
all firing orders 4 ford's are on the intake, just clean it a little u should c it. usually on the front
Make sure you have vacuum coming into the cab from the engine. There may be something wrong with the switches.
You need what is call a 4-wheel drive axle nut removal tool. You should be able to get this tool from a NAPA store. then remove the dust cap from the rotor. then there will be a set of nuts and bearings remove these keep track of the order you take them out! then you should be able to take the rotor off of the spindle. if you are going to change the rotors i would suggest getting a new set of bearings.
Hey George===First remove the negative battery cable. Rme ve the flywheel cover. Then remove the bolts holding the starter to the block. Drop the starter down enough to remove the wires. then remove the starter. GoodluckJoe
Take a jumper wire from Battery + to coil +
Then jump solenoid on starter
All 318, 360, 383, 400, and 440 cu in engines in all series of non fuel injected cars and trucks have the fuel pump mounted to the side of the timing case cover on the right side at the very front of the engine. Watch out for the pump operating rod when you remove the pump as it will fall down. I use heavy grease to hold it up when reinstalling the pump.
Depends on what you want to do with it. I never inspected my frame i just bought mine to lift and beat up on if it lasts me more than a couple of years than i got my money worth. Definitely check out the electrical!
I am in the process of my own rebuild of a 1977 PowerWagon 3/4 ton. definitely change out that intake manifold and swap in a four barrel carb. You'll have to replace the starter with a smaller one if you want to run long tube headers. i plan on lifting mine sometime in the future. I've had to fix a lot including: the dash (lights went out had to sauder some wires back in), starter relay had a lot of problems, starter.
actually there is a kit made by MR. Gasket that lets you adapt the 2BBL intake to a 4BBL intake(seem to remember it being $15). I used one on my 1958 Power Wagon W200 as parts for the 318 Polysphere motor it had are boookooo bucks! i would suggest maybe ordering a new wiring harness and starting from there.
my 1985 Ram has electrical issues, and it's been a pain in my ass tracking them all down because someone wired in a bunch of crap in an amateur way, now corrosion has gotten into those places and caused havoc, plus the fact that it's old and nature has taken a toll. If you stay with the original wiring harness I would definitely get some QD electronic cleaner and disconnect and clean every electrical connection you can find in the truck, then use di-electric grease in the connectors before you re-assemble them, that will help tons! ALSO, check that your engine is correctly grounded to the frame! I cannot stress this one enough, run an auxiliary ground strap from the engine to the frame, it helps a ton, check your body grounds as well. remember the older trucks used the body as a ground for a lot of things, later they got a bit smarter and started running a ground return wire because they figured out that a body ground really wasn't that great not sure if a '77 used a body ground but, I think they stopped doing that in the '60's
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