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I had an 88 b250 and an 92 b150 the 88 had 300k and the 92 had 200k but was in bad shape when I got it at 117k. Both vans I drove to the scrap yard. The main issue with those vans are the severe rust problems that occur here in northeast Ohio and many other areas. I spent a total of 1500 for both vans and got 1000 of it back in scrap. I did well over 2 million worth of roof and siding jobs with those vans. I never replaced a major part once just some brakes and mufflers and a couple hoses. Needless to say they are awesome work vans.

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35 gallon standard, 22 optional.

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over what?

it is smaller and more robust

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It happened to my van a long time ago, after I loosened the gas tank cap, it never happened again. I guess the ventilation or gas tank cap malfunctioned so no air was let in. You can try this one. .

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Sounds like maybe wrong parts or damage to the abs while changing pads. Abs ring or sensor, harness damage? Need to take it to a professional to find out where the source of the problem is. The abs sensor can be damaged if metal particles get into it. If the rotors were machined and not cleaned off is one way for metal particles to get there, another is if the pad wore into the rotor.

The ABS system is separate from the mechanical brakes. If the ABS light comes on the system will not be working, although your mechanical brakes will be. It is also possible that if you have not changed/flushed your brake fluid out every 2 years the debris may have accumulated and could have been forced back into the abs control unit damaging it. Figure about $1500.00 for one of these babies.

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You need to post more info on the van...what kind? what motor? full size, etc. 6 cyl. v-8?

Well, I have the same question, so I'll put up some van info here. I've got a 1989/1990 Ram van 350 with the 360 motor. It has fuel injection and an automatic tranny. Any help with getting the oil pump changed out? Can I just drop the pan and get at it?

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Yes, you can drop the pan on the 360 with the engine installed, but there are challenges.

After moving any obstructions and taking out the oil pan bolts, you can drop the pan down on to the frame cross member. The pan will not come completely off because the oil pump is in the way. Remove the pump and set it in the pan, then remove the pan and pump completely.

Make sure the new pump and pick-up tube are assembled exactly as the original. The angles are important so that the pick-up screen is at the proper location in the oil pan when installed.

Clean and inspect the pan and the oil pump mounting surface before assembly.

Drop the pump assembly in the oil pan, and set it on the frame cross-member and put everything back together with new seals and gaskets. Tighten the oil pump bolts properly and secure them if possible with some kind of physical locking device, or maybe thread locking compound. If the bolts loosen, the oil pressure will be drastically reduced, but still high enough to cause the low pressure light to turn off. The engine will probably not last as long with reduced oil pressure.

BEFORE REPLACING THE OIL PUMP, make sure that the oil pressure indicating system is not the problem and is working properly.

I hope I didn't forget anything. Have fun!

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Check all of the fuses. or take it to a garage.

If the fan still works and the cold/ hot temp dial seems to be working ( listen for damper door to flop open and close under dash) there is a very good possibility of the heater core being plugged. It is quite common in the Dodge P/U and is quite a job. There is a Wiki page that may help. A good repair manual with illustrations from an automotive store may be better.

You also can flush the heater core with a garden hose.disconnected the heater hoses,and put the garen hoses to one of the heater hoses and let the fresh water flush it out.

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Park vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the oil filter. Add 4.5 quarts of oil and start the engine. Run for 45 seconds, and shut off. Wait 45 minutes and add as necessary to reach the full mark. You now know the capacity.

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Should be under the a/c evap on the passanger side under hood looks like a black ball

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I've had the opportunity to do this self-repair job. It ain't too fun. It will take you all day for 4 wheels if you have AWD and if it's all wheel drive, you have to buy the entire hub assembly because the wheel bearings are sealed and not replaceable. It's about a three hour job for each front wheel and an hour or so on the back for the average do it yourself-er like me. I take breaks but an obsessive-compulsive can probably do all wheels in four hours if you already have the parts. You can get everything you need Autozone. The front assemblies are the most expensive at about $170 each. The dealer will charge you $350 each for the fronts and that doesn't include installation.

Step by step:

Remove the tire

Remove the entire brake caliper and use string/wire to hang it out of the way. DO NOT LET THE BRAKE HOSE SUSPEND THE CALIPER! DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG FROM THE BRAKE HOSE! Use something to hold it out of the way other than the brake hose.

Remove the large locking nut on the center of the hub. Do not re-use it. Get a new one for reassembly. That sucker is on there big-time tight so you will need an impact wrench. You will not be able to remove it unless you have a 6 foot cheater bar or an impact wrench and I've never seen a 6 foot cheater bar. If you don't have an impact wrench you will not succeed at this project. Go to Lowe's and pick up an electric one for 40 bucks. They're awesome for removing lawnmower blades too! Do this before you take things apart so you can drive your car. :)

After removing the hub lock nut, remove 3 bolts behind the hub assembly that hold the assembly to the strut.

Remove the wiring for the antilock. It runs up the wheel well and into the engine compartment.

After everything is unbolted/unwired, remove the hub assembly by pulling it. You may need a may need a rubber hammer or some leverage to get it to move. Be careful not to damage the splines on the spindle once the hub is removed.

Do everthing in reverse to put it back on.

Get a Chilton's repair guide to help. They've got good pictures of the parts. You can get these at Autozone as well. Autozone is nationwide so I'm sure there's one near you somewhere. If not, any other parts store should have the same stuff. You must ensure you torque the bolts to the correct lbs and a repair guide will give you these numbers for your year model.

Once you're done, have a beer and remember, you have another front wheel to go and two on the back. The back is easier. :)

I Have removed many axle nuts and it can be done with a breaker bar. Mine is about 2 feet long and has a 1/2 inch drive. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO INSTALL ANY FASTENERS. FIND THE TORQUE SPECS AND USE THE PROPER TOOL (TORQUE WRENCH) AND SETTING!

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The crankshaft cover is the oil pan, and you remove it from underneath the vehicle. You saftely raise and secure the vehicle with proper blocks etc. Once raised, you make sure the engine is not hot, because you will be working with very hot oil if you don't. A hot oil burn is very painful, because it just keeps burning until you get it wiped off and get something cool on your skin. Drain the oil from the engine and remove all the bolts fron around the circumference of the oil pan. Some will be difficult to get at, but you can remove them and the pan. Sometimes, some models also require you to remove other pieces, and maybe Transmission cooling lines, or maybe even some wires that prevent you from doing the job. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you ment to say the Camsahft cover, that is an entirely different situation. That is located on the front of the engine ie. the end where the pulleys are. To remove that, it is easiest to safely block up the passenger side of the vehicle, remove the wheel and the inside of the fender well and other flashings to expose that end of the motor. You have to drain the cooling system, and you also must remove the belt, the battery, the water pump, the steering pump, air pump, and the A/C compressor, just to actually see the Camshaft cover. You have to strip all these parts off the front of the engine and anything else that prevents access to the bolts that hold the cover in place. Even after removing all that, you are still not finshed removing things that allow you to remove the cover. The next major thing to remove is the Harmonic Balancer which also part of the crankshaft pulley assembly. When you have gotten that far, you will see the head of a bolt in the center of the Harmonic balancer to remove. After removing that bolt, you now need a proper puller to remove the H-balancer. (don't scrimp on this puller, because you can actually pull the balancer part off of the entire assembly, if you try using other means to do it. The balancer is mounted on with a rubber and if you separate them, you will damage the function of the Harmonic Balancer (ie. it helps smooth out the engines crankshaft's vibrations due to the firing of the fuel mixture insde the cylinders) Finally you remove all the bolts fron the cover, and usually the cover is stuck onto the front of the engine, so you need to carefully pry it off.

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By the evaporator case.

Under the dash, behind a kick panel that is below the glove compartment.

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It can be eithier plug wires crossed or burned valves. Have it checked out.

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The distributor induction coil may not be sending a signal to trigger the spark. Wiggle that pigtail wire coming out of the distributor boy and see if the engine will start. If it does, then install a new induction coil. The wires coming out of the distributor body sometimes develop breaks. If the dealer doesn't have the coil, then you can use a substitute Mopar part from NAPA, however, the Mopar part doesn't fit as tight into the distributor body as the original part. Plan to pay about $50 for the part. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Save the screws from the original part. If I remember correctly, the replacement screws with the Mopar part are bit short.

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THE FUEL PUMP IS LOCATATED IN THE GAS TANK (should be plastic tank). Tank must be lowered from vehicle. Do not try to remove tank with gas in it! Gas can be siphoned out through filler hose/grommet. Tank is held up by straps.Spray nuts with penatrating oil(PB Blaster).Due to the length of the bolts you may have to make a tool that will allow you to remove nuts or find a really deep socket. Filler hose/grommet should be replaced.(Compare new unit to old) Fuel pump-filter-sending unit is serviced as one unit.Clean dirt off to avoid getting it into tank.Unscrew large plastic ring ,remove unit,(check for dirt in tank & remove) install new unit..Re-install tank.Be prepared to replace bolts that hold straps up.

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it is located under the dash on the passenger side. it is large and round, covered in insulation-backed rubber. it is not super difficult to remove and replace, but it does require some body contortion on your part.

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I think its on the block above the starter.

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Broken transmission mount? Bad "U" joint? Bad center bearing? Driveshaft out of balance?

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The starter is located on the passenger side under the van. It is close to the passenger side of the oil pan. It is a tight squeeze to get it out. Don't forget to disconnect the battery. :)