I do not know what year Honda you have, but my fuse was on the passenger side. On the end of the dash , if you open the door, there is an access panel to get to some fuses. There should be a diagram on the panel telling you where the radio fuse is located.
The ignition module for this vehicle is mounted on the driver side fender well just below the hood hinge and behind a round vacuum diaphram.It is rectangle in shape and has a connector plug at one end(facing towards the front of the vehicle)and is mounted on a aluminum base with cooling fins(much like a small lawn mower engine)
go to Oreilly auto parts or other part store. Buy a Hanes manual specifically for that van and read the step by step instructions. For about $16 it will tell you how to fix anything on your van in simple and easy to read instructions.
To adjust the cable, pull up the cable release at the rear of the throtle body and move the cable all the way to the rear, Then get inside the car and mash the accelerator all the way to the floor. This should adjust it.
It sounds like your wheels are out of alignment, possibly from driving hard over potholes or large bumps in the road.
Below is what I did on my 2002 Stratus 2.4L.
Note: This is a description of how I chose to repair my vehicle and should not be taken as me advising anyone in any way on how or whether they manage to repair their own vehicles.
You have to remove the passenger tire and wheel wall to do it.
1) Engaged parking brake, loosened lugs on passenger front tire.
2) Jacked-up and placed jack-stand.
3) Removed piece of black under-carriage which surrounds the oil filter and attaches to front bumper. There are at least 10 plastic push-pins to remove and I managed to destroy half of them in the process.
4) Positoned belt over lower pulleys and tensioner (as best as possible) then used a bungee to hold the top end of belt up while I worked under the car.
5) Used a 3/8 ratchet and inserted into square hole attached to the tensioner, disengaged the tensioner (moves clockwise) then used a brace to keep the ratchet handle in that position.
6) From top, removed bungee and finished placing belt over alternator, checked the position of entire belt, reengaged the tensioner, and replaced wall and wheel.
Usually against the firewall in the center section
Centrifugal and axial compressors will surge when forward flow through the compressor can no longer be maintained, due to an increase in pressure across the compressor, and a momentary flow reversal occurs. Once surge occurs, the reversal of flow reduces the discharge pressure or increases the suction pressure, thus allowing forward flow to resume again until the pressure rise again reaches the surge point. This surge cycle will continue until some change is made in the process or compressor conditions.
Look in the fuse panel under the hood. The cover will usually tell which fuse it is. There is also a fuel pump relay in the same panel and it will be marked as well. Both have to be functioning properly for the pump to work.
Check in the clove box
The height of the 2014 RAM Promaster-Cargo-VAN is 7 ft. 6 in. (90 in.).
There may not be a cable, it may be electronic (as was the case with my 92). If so, there is a speed sensor on the driver's side of the transmission tailshaft.
Take out the screws that hold the AC/Heater housing together and separate it, and it's right there.
I'm assuming you do not have the owner's manual, because it explains how to do this on page 6-13, so I'll tell you what it says. 1-Move both front seats back as far as they can go. 2-Remove the instrument panel extension ( the thing with the two cup holders and the ashtray ) by removing the two screws on each side at the top of the extension, and the two nuts on the bottom. 3-Grasp the bottom of the extension, lift up, and pull out. 4-Diconnect the connector for the cigarette lighter. Set extension aside. 5-Grasp the top of the heater duct and pull down gently to remove. 6-Remove bolt from engine cover bracket, ( this is about a five inch metal piece at the top right ) loosen the nut on the other side of bracket, and move it out of the way. 7-Lift up on each of the two latches at the bottom of the cover 8-Remove the two screws at the engine cover using a long handled screwdriver. These two screws are on the sides of the cover, about 1/4 of the way from the top. The screws do not come out of the cover, only from the dash. 9-Grasp the bottom of the cover and slide it backwards. Then, lift it up and out of the vehicle. GOOD LUCK
The fuel filter for your van is located on the passenger side, just underneath the rail, near the back tire.
As for the tapping noise, if it is more like a chatter noise near the front, the timing chain may be lose. Starting in 1998 they placed a chain tensioner on the engine to correct that noise. 97 did not have it. With 155K, it is probably ready for a new chain, if it hasn't been done already. You don't want to jump time with a 3.9 as they are an interference engine, meaning the valves will hit the pistons if it jumps time.
Does the noise go away if you give it just a little gas? If so, listen for the chain.
Like others said, it could also be one or more lifters. To replace those the intake manifold, valve covers and rockers must be removed.
You can also look into the Valve Cover on the left side by removing the oil cap and see if it is sludged up at all. If so, you could also not be getting enough oil to the top end, causing your tapping noise. 3.9's are a noisy engine, but a solid tap may not be normal. Hard to say without actually hearing the tapping.
I live in the Northwest and my Dakota handles well in the snow with chains. On the freeway I get about 23 mpg, but since I drive a very short distance to work, around town is much lower. That's my fault, though, as I drive it such short distances.
EDITED TO ADD: Something I forgot to mention. I've had a number of 3.9Ls come in making more of a ticking noise that they owner thought was a tap. It was from an exhaust manifold bolt shearing off and since there is no gasket between the manifold and head, it will leak at that port. Check them also and make sure they are tight and not broken.
Disturbances/shockwaves/ripples/ through the air/water/ground.
326 but thats the 01 sport
It is a dot, dash, line, or arrow that is used to "time an engine".
The 2014 RAM Promaster-Window-VAN is 19 ft. 8 in. (236 in.) long.
Downstream O2 sensor circuit volts high.
Downstream O2 sensor circuit volts high.
Follow the main hose to the top of your engine .Take of the two screws and there it is replace with new thermostate and gasket .Use blue gasket sealer.
well a lot of times you don't lose it it just blows out the floor, and in the winter the heat will come out defroster vents on hills, if this is your problem there is a check valve in the vacuum line that works the vent door actuators, when under load the engine does not produce vaccum to this line so the check valve holds vacuum in the system. it should be near the intake manifold on the pass side of engine, it should only let air through it in one direction sometimes this is the problem, you could also check for a broken vacuum line and in one instance the cruise module in one of our vans was bad and leaking vaccum and created the symptom, i used to find the check valves in the "help" section at the auto parts store
No the engine fluhsing does not ruin the engine.
Cleanliness of diesel & Mobil oil is of the utmost importance. Damage to engine can occur if diesel & Mobil are not properly and completely cleaned. The contamination in the engine can occur from various sources, such as bio degradation of fuel, formation of microbial contents, water presence, More sulphur presence, gum, wax, and sump tank etc.
The flushing need is arises due to black smoke coming out from silencer, increase in fuel consumption, drop in pick up, due to increase in wear & tear of the the engine component etc................
The flushing needs to be done with a proper procedure, whether your vehicle engine is under warranty period or not but this procedure should be carried out in authorized workshop. If the precautions are not taken then the engine failure will take place.
The other way out is to to take the diesel from fuel pump & changing the mobile on time interval recommended by the car manufacturer. In case if the over heating takes place check the viscosity of the mobil and then only use it. In case if there is any hose leakage that will drop the oil level which you can see in the oil indicater then use top up oil or if it has reached changing interval period then change it with new oil.