I agree it is possible for the sluge to go into your oil pump and cause it plug up, but if you read on the back of the can it says if your vehicle has more than 50,000 miles on it you need to take the oil pan off and clean all the excess sluge off, this will fix your problem with puging up your oil pump, unless it just happend to do it while your flushing your engine in the five min. another thig to stop this is to put a new oil filter on before you begin to flush, because your old filter most likely cant filter enough. Once the flush is done put another oil filter on#8I'd have to say the tranny fluid in the oil is the best idea so far. To prevent the problem I also agree on using synthetic oil. Use store brand synthetic if you're frugal. Basicly, if you need to use gumout, you've been abusing your engine anyway. Had a 4L Jeep and a 5L Chevy k1500 die after gumout clogged the small channels used to distribute the oil - so about 6-8k miles later, the valves were burning up and the engine started braking internal components. And that's with removing the oil pan on both, and changing the sump screen, oil filter, etc. #9You know I have been using the product for years . There are a couple of things to keep in mind . The main one is if this is not a routine thing then it will have to be flushed twice and the filter changed in between flushes . What happens is the flush itself doesn't ruin your engine the debre in your engine does . Everyone that has a problem after one flush is due to the engine is so nasty on the inside gunk disolves everything , but it is not drained out the oil pan . You can blame it on the flush or you can blame it on how many times you have missed an oil change at 3500 intervials . If you think changing the oil at every 3500 miles is all there is don't get me started on the air filter , breather filter , pcv valve , and fuel filter ! #10I've read everyone's answers and most of them seem to address that unless you have kept up the proper maintenance on your vehicle and that it's the sludge buildup that kills your engine and not the flush, are there any special care instructions written in the directions and if so shouldn't they perform these precautions at the service businesses when the service is being offered? Has anyone contacted a rep at the services corporate offices or Pennzoil-Quaker State company to confirm this? It just seems to me that there's allot of guessing going on as to why a few people have had egine problems after using the product. I personally have used the service after 80,000 miles on my Chevy pickup and have not had a problem since. #11Any "engine flush in a can" has the potential to cause problems. As others have said, the loosened sludge, carbon and particulate will only end up in the sump to cause problems later. (It will also break down the surface tension of the oil.) 10% of the old oil remains in an engine after an oil change. That 10% is in the casting cavities and the bottom of the sump.There is only one safe flush system which, unfortunately, is not available in the USA. Best solution for automobile owners-Buy a cheap oil, run it 500 miles and change the oil and filter. Do that 3 times and then go back to a good quality oil, either mineral or synthetic and use a good quality filter. #12I use kerosene. Drain a quart of old oil out and add 1 quart kero. in. Run at idle 20 mins. then drain. Next, pour 1 quart of oil in the engine with the oil pan plug off so the oil drains. That helps clear out the kero. and loose debris. Then do a reg. oil change, wait 1000 miles and change oil and filter again.
I had an 88 b250 and an 92 b150 the 88 had 300k and the 92 had 200k but was in bad shape when I got it at 117k. Both vans I drove to the scrap yard. The main issue with those vans are the severe rust problems that occur here in northeast Ohio and many other areas. I spent a total of 1500 for both vans and got 1000 of it back in scrap. I did well over 2 million worth of roof and siding jobs with those vans. I never replaced a major part once just some brakes and mufflers and a couple hoses. Needless to say they are awesome work vans.
The following list includes books about basic maintenance and upkeep:
35 gallon standard, 22 optional.
it is smaller and more robust
Your in tank fuel pump is getting weak. Keeping the fuel tank above half full gives the pump a little inlet pressure causing it to deliver a little higher presure. Check your fuel filter. It is the cause of many fuel pump faliures. . Ron PalmerNew HeadlineI've had the same problem with my van, I needed to replace the fuel pump and filter, but I ended up having to buy the whole fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel level sending unit, fuel regulator assembly. My van runs fine now. NOTE: the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel level sending unit, fuel regulator assembly cost me about $214.00
Let me know
The term "conversion van" is used by new and used auto dealers. It is meant to define vans that are made for long distance travel or for daily use. They may sport a higher roof, window shades, interior entertainment systems, luxury seating and more. For the most part, they can be described as a family room with wheels.
The exteriors are often upscale with detailing, alloy wheels and more. The price tag for these vans may seem exorbitant, but if one travels extensively with the family, it may well be worth the price.Another definition for conversion van is used by the recreational vehicle industry. Long before custom vans and mini-vans, people purchased old delivery vans and customized the interiors and exteriors. They were the original "conversions."
Some of these vans are still on the road today. Other vans are purchased and converted into "camper vans." Small kitchens with working sinks, portable toilets, beds and other luxuries are built into the interior, and the owner enjoys having a mobile hotel room. From the outside, the van resembles any other van on the road. Camper conversion vans are readily available overseas. In places like England and Australia, they are considered RVs.
It is not unusual at an RV rally to see conversion vans with pop- up roofs. This improvement allows the user to move around inside the van better, or to stand up.
Sunroofs and ventilation windows, air conditioning units, solar panels and more are used in some conversions.
Some people today by design or necessity live in their conversion vans. They have no mortgage or property taxes, have a roof over their head and enjoy camping wherever they have a parking space.
Other conversion vans have unique purposes. Some vans have been converted into mobile businesses such as ice cream trucks, mobile pet grooming studios, pet taxis, or for transporting miniature horses.
Knowing what type of conversion van is needed will help the consumer to determine price, type of van and the price to pay. If the owner is not handy, there are individuals who will provide the conversion for a fee.
It happened to my van a long time ago, after I loosened the gas tank cap, it never happened again. I guess the ventilation or gas tank cap malfunctioned so no air was let in. You can try this one. .
Sounds like maybe wrong parts or damage to the abs while changing pads. Abs ring or sensor, harness damage? Need to take it to a professional to find out where the source of the problem is. The abs sensor can be damaged if metal particles get into it. If the rotors were machined and not cleaned off is one way for metal particles to get there, another is if the pad wore into the rotor.
The ABS system is separate from the mechanical brakes. If the ABS light comes on the system will not be working, although your mechanical brakes will be. It is also possible that if you have not changed/flushed your brake fluid out every 2 years the debris may have accumulated and could have been forced back into the abs control unit damaging it. Figure about $1500.00 for one of these babies.
You need to post more info on the van...what kind? what motor? full size, etc. 6 cyl. v-8?
Well, I have the same question, so I'll put up some van info here. I've got a 1989/1990 Ram van 350 with the 360 motor. It has fuel injection and an automatic tranny. Any help with getting the oil pump changed out? Can I just drop the pan and get at it?
Yes, you can drop the pan on the 360 with the engine installed, but there are challenges.
After moving any obstructions and taking out the oil pan bolts, you can drop the pan down on to the frame cross member. The pan will not come completely off because the oil pump is in the way. Remove the pump and set it in the pan, then remove the pan and pump completely.
Make sure the new pump and pick-up tube are assembled exactly as the original. The angles are important so that the pick-up screen is at the proper location in the oil pan when installed.
Clean and inspect the pan and the oil pump mounting surface before assembly.
Drop the pump assembly in the oil pan, and set it on the frame cross-member and put everything back together with new seals and gaskets. Tighten the oil pump bolts properly and secure them if possible with some kind of physical locking device, or maybe thread locking compound. If the bolts loosen, the oil pressure will be drastically reduced, but still high enough to cause the low pressure light to turn off. The engine will probably not last as long with reduced oil pressure.
BEFORE REPLACING THE OIL PUMP, make sure that the oil pressure indicating system is not the problem and is working properly.
I hope I didn't forget anything. Have fun!
Check all of the fuses. or take it to a garage.
If the fan still works and the cold/ hot temp dial seems to be working ( listen for damper door to flop open and close under dash) there is a very good possibility of the heater core being plugged. It is quite common in the Dodge P/U and is quite a job. There is a Wiki page that may help. A good repair manual with illustrations from an automotive store may be better.
You also can flush the heater core with a garden hose.disconnected the heater hoses,and put the garen hoses to one of the heater hoses and let the fresh water flush it out.
Park vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the oil filter. Add 4.5 quarts of oil and start the engine. Run for 45 seconds, and shut off. Wait 45 minutes and add as necessary to reach the full mark. You now know the capacity.
could be a bad radiator, or not enough flow to radiatorAddendumI had the exact same problem and it turned out to be a plugged up radiator.
I also had this problem, so hose flushed the radiator, and the problem still persisted. Turned out that the thermostat was sticking; not opening fully. I put another one in, and it's running cool now. Change your thermostat. They need to be changed anyway, so do it, and I'll bet your overheating problem will be cured. Cheapest cure there is.
I recently went thru this on a 99 dodge ram 1500, replaced the thermostat, still had probs with over heating on the highway, after that noticed that my water level in my radiator kept going down, changed the water pump and that was the issue. after about a week of overheating and running low on water. if replacing the thermostat doesnt work, you need to check to see if you have any water leaks at all on your water pump, then with as old as my van is, i just make sure once a week to check my water level and keep water in my resivoir as well, never had a prob since.
Should be under the a/c evap on the passanger side under hood looks like a black ball
Depending on the year of the vechile you can clear error codes several different ways. If the vechile is pre 95 you can disconnect power to the battery for ten minutes and that will clear the stored codes. If the vechile is post 95 you have to have a scanner hooked up to clear the codes. 96 and up there is a hand scanner that can be purchased at your local parts store so you can scan and remove the code.my 2 centsThis is more than needed but I am trying to give a broader explanation. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or �monitors� are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. There are many different sources for the light to come on. Anything that caused combustion to fail, commonly called a misfire will set the light. Various sensors such as oxygen sensors that evaluate the exhaust before and after the gases are burned in the converter. Transmission codes may set the check engine light to appear. If the car is running okay, get it fixed in a reasonable amount of time such as within the month. It will probably save you fuel if you do. However if the Check engine light is flashing, you should be driving it as damage is being done to the converter. Some emission components are covered beyond the standard warranty. The converter for example is covered up to 80,000 miles by the manufacturer. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage. To start testing for the check engine light, you�ll need to find the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. There are self-tests for the oxygen sensor circuit, egr system, evaporative system to name a few. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related.
OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that it won�t come back on. But don�t bet on it. Lastly, disconnecting the battery in some cars will clear the memory of the computer and may temporarily turn the light off. Beware that this may also cause other problems such as the car not rembering it�s idle and will have to relearn it, the radio may be rendered inoperative or in the case of the new Toyotas, the air bag can blow.
This Is an Addition to his answer.
He is trying to over explain.. Just undo your negative battery terminal for 30 minutes then re connect it. this should clear any fault codes. the exception is if there is still a problem then it wont work.
I've had the opportunity to do this self-repair job. It ain't too fun. It will take you all day for 4 wheels if you have AWD and if it's all wheel drive, you have to buy the entire hub assembly because the wheel bearings are sealed and not replaceable. It's about a three hour job for each front wheel and an hour or so on the back for the average do it yourself-er like me. I take breaks but an obsessive-compulsive can probably do all wheels in four hours if you already have the parts. You can get everything you need Autozone. The front assemblies are the most expensive at about $170 each. The dealer will charge you $350 each for the fronts and that doesn't include installation.
Step by step:
Remove the tire
Remove the entire brake caliper and use string/wire to hang it out of the way. DO NOT LET THE BRAKE HOSE SUSPEND THE CALIPER! DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG FROM THE BRAKE HOSE! Use something to hold it out of the way other than the brake hose.
Remove the large locking nut on the center of the hub. Do not re-use it. Get a new one for reassembly. That sucker is on there big-time tight so you will need an impact wrench. You will not be able to remove it unless you have a 6 foot cheater bar or an impact wrench and I've never seen a 6 foot cheater bar. If you don't have an impact wrench you will not succeed at this project. Go to Lowe's and pick up an electric one for 40 bucks. They're awesome for removing lawnmower blades too! Do this before you take things apart so you can drive your car. :)
After removing the hub lock nut, remove 3 bolts behind the hub assembly that hold the assembly to the strut.
Remove the wiring for the antilock. It runs up the wheel well and into the engine compartment.
After everything is unbolted/unwired, remove the hub assembly by pulling it. You may need a may need a rubber hammer or some leverage to get it to move. Be careful not to damage the splines on the spindle once the hub is removed.
Do everthing in reverse to put it back on.
Get a Chilton's repair guide to help. They've got good pictures of the parts. You can get these at Autozone as well. Autozone is nationwide so I'm sure there's one near you somewhere. If not, any other parts store should have the same stuff. You must ensure you torque the bolts to the correct lbs and a repair guide will give you these numbers for your year model.
Once you're done, have a beer and remember, you have another front wheel to go and two on the back. The back is easier. :)
I Have removed many axle nuts and it can be done with a breaker bar. Mine is about 2 feet long and has a 1/2 inch drive. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO INSTALL ANY FASTENERS. FIND THE TORQUE SPECS AND USE THE PROPER TOOL (TORQUE WRENCH) AND SETTING!
The crankshaft cover is the oil pan, and you remove it from underneath the vehicle. You saftely raise and secure the vehicle with proper blocks etc. Once raised, you make sure the engine is not hot, because you will be working with very hot oil if you don't. A hot oil burn is very painful, because it just keeps burning until you get it wiped off and get something cool on your skin. Drain the oil from the engine and remove all the bolts fron around the circumference of the oil pan. Some will be difficult to get at, but you can remove them and the pan. Sometimes, some models also require you to remove other pieces, and maybe Transmission cooling lines, or maybe even some wires that prevent you from doing the job. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you ment to say the Camsahft cover, that is an entirely different situation. That is located on the front of the engine ie. the end where the pulleys are. To remove that, it is easiest to safely block up the passenger side of the vehicle, remove the wheel and the inside of the fender well and other flashings to expose that end of the motor. You have to drain the cooling system, and you also must remove the belt, the battery, the water pump, the steering pump, air pump, and the A/C compressor, just to actually see the Camshaft cover. You have to strip all these parts off the front of the engine and anything else that prevents access to the bolts that hold the cover in place. Even after removing all that, you are still not finshed removing things that allow you to remove the cover. The next major thing to remove is the Harmonic Balancer which also part of the crankshaft pulley assembly. When you have gotten that far, you will see the head of a bolt in the center of the Harmonic balancer to remove. After removing that bolt, you now need a proper puller to remove the H-balancer. (don't scrimp on this puller, because you can actually pull the balancer part off of the entire assembly, if you try using other means to do it. The balancer is mounted on with a rubber and if you separate them, you will damage the function of the Harmonic Balancer (ie. it helps smooth out the engines crankshaft's vibrations due to the firing of the fuel mixture insde the cylinders) Finally you remove all the bolts fron the cover, and usually the cover is stuck onto the front of the engine, so you need to carefully pry it off.
By the evaporator case.
Under the dash, behind a kick panel that is below the glove compartment.
It can be eithier plug wires crossed or burned valves. Have it checked out.
The distributor induction coil may not be sending a signal to trigger the spark. Wiggle that pigtail wire coming out of the distributor boy and see if the engine will start. If it does, then install a new induction coil. The wires coming out of the distributor body sometimes develop breaks. If the dealer doesn't have the coil, then you can use a substitute Mopar part from NAPA, however, the Mopar part doesn't fit as tight into the distributor body as the original part. Plan to pay about $50 for the part. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Save the screws from the original part. If I remember correctly, the replacement screws with the Mopar part are bit short.
THE FUEL PUMP IS LOCATATED IN THE GAS TANK (should be plastic tank). Tank must be lowered from vehicle. Do not try to remove tank with gas in it! Gas can be siphoned out through filler hose/grommet. Tank is held up by straps.Spray nuts with penatrating oil(PB Blaster).Due to the length of the bolts you may have to make a tool that will allow you to remove nuts or find a really deep socket. Filler hose/grommet should be replaced.(Compare new unit to old) Fuel pump-filter-sending unit is serviced as one unit.Clean dirt off to avoid getting it into tank.Unscrew large plastic ring ,remove unit,(check for dirt in tank & remove) install new unit..Re-install tank.Be prepared to replace bolts that hold straps up.
it is located under the dash on the passenger side. it is large and round, covered in insulation-backed rubber. it is not super difficult to remove and replace, but it does require some body contortion on your part.
I think its on the block above the starter.
Broken transmission mount? Bad "U" joint? Bad center bearing? Driveshaft out of balance?
The starter is located on the passenger side under the van. It is close to the passenger side of the oil pan. It is a tight squeeze to get it out. Don't forget to disconnect the battery. :)
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