Dodge does not use inertia/reset switches.
The tuirn signal flasher is located in complete module attached to the turn signal lever. It is all one solid unit.
The fuel pump relay should be located under the hood on firewall below the brake booster and just to the driver side of the engine housing.
i have a 91 dodge ram 250 van and the voltage regulator went out on it. My Va was located in the computer. a new computer will run about $230. i got mine from a junk yard for 30 bucks and it works fine. the computer is on the fire wall in a black box. i have a 91 dodge ram 250 van and the voltage regulator went out on it. My Va was located in the computer. a new computer will run about $230. i got mine from a junk yard for 30 bucks and it works fine. the computer is on the fire wall in a black box.
Good luck.
Answercheck the fuse for the fuel pump AnswerI fixed mine. It was the CRANK SENSOR. It's in a hard to find place; got it from under the car, its in between the oil pan and the trany. At the top of the oil pan in the block on a downward angle. There are two other thinges in the block just above it to the right. (looking from under the car)<>
My 94 Lumina APV (3.8L) would not start (when warm) - cranked but acted as if no spark or fuel.
Mechanic replaced computer @ $350 (said too many error codes to diagnose problem) - did not resolve problem. Then he replaced the camshaft position sensor (CMP) @ $125 - that solved the problem.
PB
I have a 76' Malibu and almost the whole time I have had it the gen light is on except when I just put a new alternator in it. Then the light would go out for a while, but always came back on after a while. What I found out was there is a Diode that goes bad in the alternator and causes the light to come on. Soon you have to get a new alternator.
Are you asking is there a light that indicates if high beams on. Sometimes the light bulb behind the the speedo goes out just replace by turn it off counter clockwise.
It could be as simple as a vacuum leak but without knowing what year, make, model and engine it is hard to tell you what it may be.
It's behind the dashboard about halfway above the floor, almost against the firewall.
It's a nasty job to do if replacement is necessary.
You should have quite abit of experience working on vehicles to be able to do this job.
It is computer controlled and is not adjustable.
If idle speed is incorrect, you will need to check for vacuum leaks, inaccurate sensors, or a failing idle airflow control motor.
It is computer controlled and is not adjustable.
If idle speed is incorrect, you will need to check for vacuum leaks, inaccurate sensors, or a failing idle airflow control motor.
lots of work but, remove top radiator cover, remove and remember the serp belt, remove fan and clucth(the fun part) then remove the bolts for the pump. Some mechanics replace the fan clutch while they have it off depending on the van miles. total time approx 45 to 90min depending on tools and skill level
The fuel pump is located in the tank if it is a TBI (EFI) Engine.
And Dodge does not use inertia/reset switches.
Captain's chairs for vans can weigh anywhere from 40 to 75 pounds. The cost for a replacement chair ranges from $369 to $900.
gas or diesel
gas is in fuel tank, diesel driver side bottom rear of motor under fuel filter
If you are asking about an access panel through the bed, no.
Monthly. If you buy a water pump for it, don't get it at autozone. I purchased one there and replaced the water pump three times since with their free exchange. They're junk. The last one I bought from NAPA and it lasted a year and a half. I don't know what it is about Dodge and water pumps or if it's just the aftermarket stuff but my RAM hasn't been right since it went out the first time and usually waterpumps rarely go bad. beware!
1st drain the radiator Disconnect the battery & then you have to get the fan off. Do this by putting a wrench on it and then taping the wrench this acts like an impact hammer. If you try and turn the wrench everything moves. Once the fan is removed pull it out if there is room, if not proceed to take the fan shroud off (should be 2 bolts on each side)and lift it out with the fan in it. You should disconnect the coolant overflow hose from the radiator and slide the window washer fluid tank (if it's attached)up off of the shroud. 2nd unloosen the water pump pully bolts(4) but do not remove. 3rd remove the belt and now you can take the bolts out of the water pump pully and remove it. 4th disconnect the heater & radiator hoses, remove pump bolts and pry pump off. You may have to buy a separate heater return tube if one does not come with the new pump
Good Evening Everyone. I'm providing additional info on my Dodge 2000 Van.
This is a 2500 series. Now 115K, had pre-purchase inspection at 111K ( within 6 months ). No problems. Engine light has remained on ( flashes sometimes ), smell catalytic sometimes ( have considered if going bad and inhibiting exhaust flow ). Needs an air filter. Have used STP gas treatment. Ran well Tuesday (low to high 40's KC). Have good oil, good coolant. Didn't drive Wed. Cold temps today, Thurs...Tried to start at noon ( around mid 30's )..tried to turn over..Battery ran low..Let recharge..Used new starting fluid..tried to turn, but no go. Tried jump starting. No good. Not sure if fuel pump, a crack in ignition coil pack, best as I can tell the fuel pump is engaging. My battery could have cell out, or going out. I appreciate the post I read about taking a vehicle to Auto Zone for a free codes check. I'll look into that.
Thanks for your help folks.
There is a sensor up pn the firewall I think called an EGR sensor. I understand many Melinnias have this problem. Replacing the sensor for some reason just causes the replacement to go bad. My solution was to just remove it. Sure, my emissions are probably not as good, but it has never stalled again. My engine light stays on but hey, who cares? The sensor I found was located almost dead center - clightly to the driver side about 3-6 inches away from the firewall connected to an electrical connection. Mysterioiusly the part had a Mitsubishi emblem on it! Maybe an OEM part from the Mazda dealer would have corrected this, but my solution seems to work just fine.
Answercheck the main fuseI have the same 1st 2 codes(problem). The EGR valve assy is a spaceship shaped item, behind the rear spark plugs, slightly underneath the plugs. It has two vac hoses (top and bottom). The other part discussed above, is the MAP sensor. I found that one store may sell you the top portion of the MAP sensor assy, but not the lower. I have found that another store will sell you the whole assy, and all you have to do is remove 2 nuts, 2 vac hoses and 2 elec connectors. This I have done (whole assy). My codes are still there. This was the cheapest route, so far. That part was $200 at "AZ", with the EGR valve being $350. It may nickle and dime me, but at least it'll eventually pass local emissions testin requirements (eventually). I bought a scanner/eraser to check and erase my codes. Have not encountered the P15xx series, yet.
On the valve body, inside the transmission.
On the valve body, inside the transmission.
there can be many reasons. but the most common is moister in the dist.cap or on the coil which is mounted on the dist. I personally like a product called 5-56. which is kinda like wd40 only better. I know that if you batt those eyes. someone will come running to help you. you lucky dog. wish I could do that.
in the glove compartment, and the relays are under the tray in the glove compartment
5.2 and 5.9 V8 engines take 5qt
book says 5.5 quarts i just put 6
I don't know if there is a fusable link! This is what I did. I lifted the glove box out and next to the fusebox is a flat black box (3" x 5" x 1 "), probably the electronic ignition. I unplugged it and replaced it. Further I replaced the relays (3 of them under the hood). one is located directly beside the smec computer, one is a metal relay in the middle of the firewall and the other is in between the brake booster and the batterie. I tried it again and it works. the other way is, run a wire from the batterie to the pos side of the coil (to supply power). pull one of the sparkplug wire of and stick another sparkplug in it and lay it on top of the valve cover. Crank the motor over and see if the sparkplug sparks (this is to check your coil working properly!)