it is a 50/50 mixture. Half antifreeze/coolant - half water. It is imperative that you follow this procedure when refilling, and use Distilled Water to mix with the pure coolant. After you complete this step you fill the system to the line in the de-gas bottle or usually known as the over-flow bottle. Total system volume unknown. There are probably depending on the Engine and Transmission combination. Refill CAUTION: When draining the engine coolant or changing any cooling system components, it is imperative that the coolant that is drained be refilled with the same specification of coolant. Failure to follow this instruction can result in damage to the cooling system and can cause damage to engine. Disconnect the heater supply hose from the engine.(Top hose of the Thermostat housing leading to the firewall) Using a funnel, fill the cooling system through the supply hose until the coolant starts to trickle from the engine (with the T-Stat housing removed). Reconnect the heater supply hose. NOTE: Make sure that the in-vehicle heater temperature control is in the HOT position and the heater blower switch is in the OFF position. Make sure the air conditioning is switched OFF. Ummm i do believe they said how much, not what kind or how to change it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Get your tires balanced and/or check the lug nuts.
problem with fuel sending unit or dash guage.
Look under the hood by the firewall, there's a main fuse box there, on the driver's side.
Yes. as long as it is distilled water tough.
There is a way to do this from inside the engine compartment on 1999+ 3.8l Windstars. Tedious & possibly gonna scratch your arm up, but easier than pulling motor mounts and exhaust pipes.
Location: Directly underneath the middle spark plug on the back of the engine - about 3" down, and inserted into the top of the transmission. There is a metal shield that is held in place with the same hold-down bolt that secures the sensor.
NOTE: don't rush and forget to secure the radio noise capacitor thingy under the leftside hold down bolt.
Getting at the bolt:
TIP: tape the joints together so your extension assembly doesn't come apart as you're pushing & pulling it up and down
Once your hand is down there and has figured out where things are, you're ready to use it to guide the socket into place & onto the bolt
This is a totally blind operation! You will never see the pieces you're working with.
Assuming you don't dislocate your shoulder or bleed-out from scratching your arm to shreds, you should be able to get the 25mm long bolt out!
Lift and remove the cover, and the sensor should rotate in the open pretty easily.
Removing the sensor: This is the hard part because you can't easily get upward pull as you twist the sensor in its opening! Just keep twisting and lifting - it'll come out... eventually!
This is one of the most painful, awkward & frustrating things I have done on a vehicle!
But in my circumstance, well worth the effort.
Btw, don't do this unless you know for 100% sure your sensor has failed - you're not going to enjoy the experience.
Best of luck! :)
Forget what the manual says! It will have you remove the exhaust pipe which is hell if its old and rust; and after that you will have to feel your way around the sensor as the angle is bad. Also, it puts you hand in a cramped position to try and ratchet the mounting bolt on the sensor which is on top and away from you.
I had to change mine and this most direct approach that is least problematic. The sensor is located on top of the transmission right behind the passenger side rear engine mount. Jack up the car and support it safely on a jack stand. Then remove the passenger side front wheel and fender guard to get access to the engine and mount. You got to remove the mount and mount supporting bracket on the engine to get enough clearance to the sensor (which requires lifting the engine some. Last resort you can use your floor jack and a block of 2x4 wood to do it only don't lift on the oil pan or crank shaft pulley. I tend to use the area where the oil pan bolts to the block. Make sure to unbolt the bottom of both the front and rear engine mount first and then lift slowly and carefully so not to cause damage anywhere). As soon as I remove the mount, I usually lower the engine back down to be safe as floor jacks can be unstable.
This part is difficult to describe as I can't accurately remember, but, the transmission has a hump or cap on top of it. You'll see the sensor plugged into it from the opposite side that faces away from you. You'll spot the sensor after removing the mount and you'll see what I am trying to describe. Its common sense. There is only one bolt and you have to feel around the sensor for it where it plugs into the hump/cap. I don't remember the size of the socket but you can research that. Because of the confine space, use a small socket wrench.
Make sure you clean and wipe the area before removing the sensor. Otherwise, debris can fall inside the hole where the sensor goes and re-installing the sensor can be sticky. So a mild lube on the sensor housing (not the gear!) helps to slide it into the hump.
If your car is really old, it might be wise to purchase an extra pigtail connector that plugs the car computer into the sensor. Because the sensor is so close to bank 1 of the engine, the heat and weather overtime can make the pigtail brittle and it can break during unhooking. That happened to me.
I just did mine on a 2001 ford focus MTX75 transmision. Took me about 10 hours just taking my time. The labor is like 5.5 hrs though. I had to take the sub frame out. Its a pretty comlicated job so you would probobly want a pro shop do it. It can be done in the street but I dont recomend it. A lift helps
Check your emergency fuel pump cutoff.
I have a 2009 Focus Titanium automatic and that does not come with cruise control. I think the manual version does though.
The regulator is within the alternator
its under the front Ford badge slide it up and insert the ignition key turn to the left then to the right, but make sure the car is open first or the alarm will go off.
Its behind the glow comportment inside the dash bort remove the glow comportment with screw driver....thanks
You have a wire with worn insulation or a bad light switch. Go to where the wire is connected to the tail lights. Check the connection between the wire and the tail lights. Check the wire. Look for a place where the insulation is missing or where bare wire touches metal other than the connection to the tail light. If you find it, take some electrical tape and wrap it around the wire at that point. Find the switch where the brake light is activated when you hit the brake. Check for a wire with a piece of missing insulation where bare wire is touching metal. Keep checking. Trace the wire as far as you can. You are looking for loose insulation. If you can get to the brake light control manually, jiggle it by hand. See if that blows a fuse. If it does, you have a bad switch. Next, you start disconnecting if possible. See if you can disconnect the wire from the break switch to the break lights. Then hit the brakes 100 times. If you blow the fuse, it is in the switch. See if you can disconnect the wire from the back lights. If you can, hit the brakes 100 times. See if you can blow the fuse. If you can, it is in the wiring. Connect it back to the left tail light. Then the right tail light.
Fuse # 47 / 20 amp / Cigar Lighter , Power Point ( according to the owners manual )
If you haven't done a tune-up lately (plugs and wires), do it. Do not "gap" the plugs, it will ruin the platinum coating. Install them right from the box.
The owners manual on a Ford Focus will probably tell you that towing anything with the focus is a bad idea.
a radiator for a 2001 ford focus dual overhead cam will cost you 135.16 including taxes at autozone. you can find radiators to about 30 dollars below that on-line or around 50 dollars above that anywhere else if you purchase it at any of your local parts store.
Trouble code P0761 means:Shift solenoid C performance or stuck off
Change the spark plugs and check all fluid levels, change oil, filter and AIR filter. Don't forget to rotate your tires. Don't you have an Owner's manual?
It SHOULD be under the hood, either on the radiator housing or above your head, on the underside of the hood.
I had the same problem and it is your oxygen sensor.
I agree with the below statement, its a zippy little car, and you can do so much bolt on stuff yourself at your house if your into working on it and you just watched the fast and the furious :P ha but stock the car has 130hp at 53,000rpms which is decent for an American tuner. mine right now has a turbo kit from focussport, and after the dyno tune i have 235hp to the wheels, she runs in the 14s at the track, it is of course recommended to have it professionally installed but it took me 3 days at about 3hours a day and i hooked it up, that's probably the best part about this car is that its so easy to fix up the engine is so small and simple to work with i also drive a 99 mustang gt and that i do take to the shop but get a focus they're very niceAnswerI think that the Focus is a great car. Especially for tuning up to perform as a race car if you will. Outside that box it's a pretty dependable car for the money and the company. AnswerI think it was over priced and has many problems. It has 16" wheels that cannot be downsized because of the calipers. Try buying tires for this vehicle they are anywhere from $85-$160 a piece 205/50R16 and most places will not put any other tire that the manufacturer doesn't recommend which leaves you with one or two very expensive choices, this is a SCAM. You feel every bump you hit regardless of the size of the bump. These tires do not last I don't care who manufactures them. Mine were defective at 16 thousand miles and Firestone would not do a thing about them I won't ever buy another Firestone tire as long as I live because of this.
The seat belts ratchet and keep getting tighter even when replaced by Ford. It constantly goes through emission sensors and gives erroneous engine light errors. Not to mention the recalls, many recalls. You have to be a contortionist to put on your seat belt or to change the oil filter. Many unexplained rattles while moving. Extreme static discharge from the upholstery, don't believe me? search the web it's true.
The cheap brake pads that Ford put on this car expell a masive amount of black brake dust that is ruining my aluminum wheels and are very noisy and groan loudly when it is wet or dry, this generates many strange looks from people on the road and makes you ashamed that you are driving a Ford.
I would not recommend buying any focus, as a matter of fact I would not recommend buying any Ford product because of all the problems myself and my family have had with the Taurus-Windstar-Focus, we have had many fords over the period of 5 decades and can't rely on Ford since the early 1990's.
Thank You Ford motor company for directing me to purchase a Japanese car in the future. I am looking forward to owning my first Camry soon.AnswerIt is a basic transportation kind of car. It needs to be maintained like any other vehicle and is not a luxury ride kind of car. I have seen more infrequent troubled focus cars that problem child's. I do want to comment on the 2nd persons comments however. I do empathise with their troubles as sometimes you get a trouble car. Regarding the SCAM on the tires, that you can thanks the lawyers and public for. The car is designed by the engineers to meet the public wants. That is the low profile tires that get fabric breaks. That is typical of that size tire, but again it is the look people want. The lawyers will encourage law suits to nail anyone who can get a buck squeezed out of them. That is anyone who puts on a tire that will work but is not specified for the vehicle is up for a potential law suit should an accident occur regardless of the cause of the accident. Regarding the brake dust, Ceramic pads can greatly reduce this effect. It is not uncommon to see brake dust on the majority of cars, The is a thing called "elbow grease" that is required and I believe it states that. I find it curious that it took 5 decades to change to a different manufacturer, but each manufacturer has it's problems. Moving to a Camry makes sense to me. If you do buy a Focus, megotiate about 4 extra licnce plate sockets into the deal. They are only available through the dealer as far as I know and run about $45.00 a piece. Although, I may be thinking of the Contour. Check it out first. AnswerI would undoubtedly recommend buying a focus, I myself have an 01 Focus ZX3 and I've had very little trouble with it! I can however vouch for the emissions sensors crapping out frequently but those fixes are small change compared to mechanical problems. I've had to replace the PVC valve($5)and E.G.R. valve ($60) so I've only spent 65 dollars on repairs in nearly 50,000 miles, but I put those miles on in one year that's a fair bit of driving. Anyway even if you include oilchanges and tires your still in the ballpark of 350-400 dollars. You do need to shop around for a good tire price but I paid 250 mounted, balanced, disposal and warrented so the tires cost a bit more than your average domestic what's the big deal if you want dirt cheap parts buy a crownvic or a caprice or an old caddy, the parts are cheap but I guarantee you'll be buying alot more of them!!! It's like any other car if you take care of it, it'll take care of you! AnswerSo far love my 2001 hatchback. Runs well but do here the noise in the brakes.. Where is the PVC valve we are looking for?? My husband services it and can't find where it is. Looking for a diagram but so far no luck. Any ideas where to find that on the computer?
Well i like my 2000 zx3 But stock, it doesn't like hills. I have to climb them at 4500 rpm haha. Plus I've had quite a few problems with it. Both that are my fault and factory defects. The e-brake cable broke on me but i saw that coming when i bought it. The line was just old and rusty. Now it only locks up one back tire but that's all your really need. :D Plus the front stabilizer bar went bad, but that was from me pretending i was in the WRC and jumping it. A new one cost me like $125. I don't jump it anymore. haha. But it has this defect going... At random times, when i hit the gas, the rpms will drop. But if i let off in time, it cuts back to idle. when this happens, (always when I'm driving down the road) I eather press the clutch in and play with the throttle, or i shut the car off and start it back up. They both usually work but the problem keeps showing up. I figured it was a bad fuel filter so i changed that. (by the way, changing the fuel filter in a 2000 focus zetec was the easiest thing i ever did.) the problem went away for a while, but come inspection time, I had to get a new flex pipe to pass immitions because my old one was shot. haha Right after i got that done, it started the problem again right away. So i figured the computer wasn't use to the new backpressure. So i unplugged the battery for an hour to reset the computer but it STILL dose it! I'm gonna take it to a dealership and get the computer checked to pin point the problem. and while I'm there, I wanna see if they can program the speed Governor and the rev limiter out of it. And program the fan to kick on earlier so the engine will run cooler. (cooler engine = more acceleration and better gas mileage :D). Not to mention the latch for the hatch froze up and it's stuck shut. I tore it apart to try to hit it with pb blaster only to find that the latch and the electric motor is sealed in a black box that you can only remove when the hatch its open. Once i can get this all fixed up, i do look forward to building it up. I wanna get a k&n intake (turbo's coming later), Racing plugs and wires, stronger cylinders, high compretion pistons, aftermarket exhaust and a racing clutch kit. But first things first. haha
I think you get what you pay for. It entered the market as a just over $12,000 (CDN) with a peppy little 16 valve engine. I bought my '01 ZX3 about 4 months ago just to drive back and forth to work. This little puppy is going on 9 years old and is sitting at around 120,000 kms - and other than a dash light, oil change and a couple smaller items (wipers, floormats) it's worth the little money I paid! Every single manufacturer has its flaws (yes even the beloved Japanese ones) so if you got stuck with a lemon I can totally sympathize with that (it's happened to me!). I think for the money it's a great little car to bomb around in and race back and forth to work. Hey even my 15 year old son is itching to start driving it next spring! If you ask if I would recommend it - then yes I would - but only as a second vehicle for your wife or kids....
Check owner's manual. If you don't have one copy and paste link below; www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals
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