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Not as bad as putting a little bit of power steering fluid in the brake reservoir, but I would have the power steering system flushed just the same. Problems wouldn't happen soon but in the long term they will.

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Yes, timing is when your cam opens and closes your valves also your distributor shaft which regulates the firing of your plugs.

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Most suggest around 60K

== Very important when changing a timing belt is to align marks and tension is correct. Its not just like changing a fan belt. Get it wrong and could cause thousands of damage to a modern motor.

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The power steering pump resivoir.

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Yes, the '76 came standard from the factory with shoulder/lap belt combo. Top part bolts into pillar and bottom bolts in right by the seat mount. Good luck! -ku2002

Yes, 1976 Corvettes did not come with lap belts only. They were equipped from the factory with shoulder belts. (Or the shoulder/lap combo) mentioned above. But it wasn't an either/or deal. Plain lap belts were never installed in 1976 Corvettes.

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Tighten the belt. The belt drive the AC compressor. On some cars the compressor engages when the defrost is on to remove moisture from the air before it's heated for the defrosters.

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Pull upon the belt and it will show you which way the idler pulley has to go to relieve pressure on the belt. Then pry it with a 15 mm wrench to relieve pressure and there should be a schematic under the hood to tell you how to route the belt. If it isn't there draw a schematic before you take the belt off. Don't rely on memory.

I put a ratcheting cargo strap on the 15mm wrench and secured the other end so as to pull the tensioner enough to easily slip the belt into place with both hands.

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It's a risk, in any case. Even if the belt only goes to the AC compressor (and not the alternator, as well), there is the possibility that it could take out the other belts when it breaks.

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A cam belt spins the cams in the exact timing sequence for the valves to open, it is considered part of the internal engine workings and is absolutely necessary for operation. A fan belt operates the cooling fan and maybe other accesories such as power steering and air conditioning, it is on the outside of the motor.

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The diagram has to be printed somewhere. Some cars have a label in the engine compartment, some drawing in the manual.

The rule of thumb is that the crankshaft pulley needs to have about 180 degrees loop of belt on it. So looking on the engine from front and going clockwise the belt goes under the crankshaft pulley, wraps it toward 2 o'clock, where usually is a tensioner on idler pulley, than goes back toward 8 o'clock, loops on whatever is there and than wraps around all the pulleys on the engine.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/general-mercedes-benz/1429423-sprinter-fanbelt.html

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I'm not sure on the timing belt, but before 140,000 KM (100,000 MI)is a safe bet. As far as acessory belts, there is no recommended interval, but they should be changed if they are noisy or if recommended by your technician. I'm not sure of the timing belt interval, but if it was mine I would do it at 60,000. Serpentine belts should bechanged if there are any cracks going parallel to the belt edges, or if the belts has cracks in the belt perpendicular to edges so that pieces are starting to come off. Perpendicular cracks are normal, unless pieces are starting to come off. If a technician recommends a belt, ask why. If it does not fit this criteria, you probably don't need one. With the exception of oil or coolant contamination. If there is noise from it and that bothers you, then change it. If you get cornered into getting it changed, ask to see it. If it didn't fall into the above situations, I empower you to use it as tourniquet and wrap it around his neck for selling you something you didn't need.

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I just replaced mine tonight. You have to do it from underneath the vehicle. Take off the rivets to the two plastic covers, and then you will be able to see the tensioner for the belt. Use a 3/4 inch wrench on the tensioner (don't put it on the bolt that holds the tensioner on), and pull it toward the vehicle. The belt will loosen, and you can take it off. I took a few pictures if you would like them, let me know. Stephen

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By repairing he problem, which is more than likely a blown head gasket. Do not drive this car as severe engine damage will occur. My two cents:

Note that other leaks can cause this problem. GM 3.1L and 3.4L SFI engines get this problem from a lower intake gasket. Chrysler OHC V6 Engines (chain timed) will do this if the water pump leaks.

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concrete

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you need to get some belt dressing and spray it on the belt it will stop the belt from sqeaking and can be used for all belts you can by it at any auto parts store it is called Belt Dressing it is in an arisal can it works very well.

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Depending if the transmission has been built or is original. Mercon for the rebuilt unit because the frictions are made of updated materials. Type F fluid for original transmissions, a squawking noise might be heard if not used.

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1. Installed the alternator 2. There's a tension bolt that you will use wrench on it and turn it clock-wise. 3. Attach the belt on there 4. Release your wrench easily and that's should be all. 5.don't worry about the belt, if it was straight. 6. It should aligned up automatically, when you start up the car. I hoped this will help, I'm a not professional on this kind of problems on explaining. Good Luck!

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My 97 cavalier 2.2L engine takes 4 quarts.

There are two different 2.2 Chevy motors. One holds about 4 qts. and one holds about 5qts. Always check after filling and circulating the oil.

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Hey, yes the Idler Pully nut is reverse tread (you have to turn right to loosen this) this is because you turn left to loosen belt tension. I believe this is true for a lot of GM engines.

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You can loosen a wire retainer by stretch out the loop or U this will make it a little wider. You can also loosen it over time by popping it out with your tongue but this can break the wire!

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Head gasket leaking?

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Very possibly. If the alternator is locked up (shot) it will burn the belt off of it in seconds. If the alternator has no belt on it chances are this is why. I hope this helps you. Mark

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First of all I think you are confused. The engine oil is not cooled directly by a cooler. The engine its self is cooled by a cooling system. Which uses coolant and a radiator. Coolant travels through the radiator and is cooled by a combination of factors. There are air dams or cowls that gather moving air and direct it through the fins on the radiator. ther is a fan that is temperature sensitive that comes on and blows air across the fins. Most always, there are transmission coolers built into the radiator, but kept separate from the coolant to prevent the fluid from getting too hot and damaging the transmission. On some radiators there are oil coolers built into the radiator to help cool the oil much like the transmission coolers serve.