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under the rear seat

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on my 72 super they are attached to the master cylinder witch is located under the car l on the drivers side near the frame head. usually 2 of them.

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It's run on air instead of a little electric pump.

There is a tube connected to the spare tire that is filled to about 45 psi, goes to the water tank, then goes to the button, then to the windshield.

Your expected to release the extra air out of the good spare when you have a flat, but then you won't have a windshield washer now that the bad spare is flat.

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that's a long job matey... first you'll want to remove the seats from the car, and then the engine (not strictly necessary, but much easier) remove the running boards there are bolts running all around where the body and chassis meet up. two, i think, on the rear crossmember underneath the rear seat, two next to the rear shock absorbers. nine on each side underneath the car, running down the heater channels (stubborn as anything to get off, often have to be cut) four at the front from undereath again, larger ones this time, front crossmember. remove the fuel tank two large bolts on the torsion bars on the front, under the fuel tank. disconnect all the wiring, and remove the speedometer cable from the LHS wheel hub. there's a tiny clip that keeps it on. unbolt the steering column from the steering box get four strong mates and lift it off! (you will probably have to cut a couple of weld repairs from over the years) hope this helps.

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2.8 quarts. We usually just add a full 3 quarts. Be sure to clean the filter/screen, and replace all the little gaskets - one per nut (6 total) plus the two big paper gaskets that fit one above and one below the filter/screen. The 6mm bolts are delicate, do not over tighten, or they WILL strip easily.

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The engine holds 2500 ml of oil, or a little over 2.6 quarts. Don't put any more than that in there because the engine has very high startup oil pressure. If you put even a little too much oil in a Bug you will pop the main seal right out of the engine, which causes it to leak. This is why everyone thinks Volkswagens all leak. They don't, unless you make them leak and this is how.

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The first thing I would do is to replace the shift coupler. You crawl under your car and look at the nose of the transmission, and you'll see the shift rod coming out of it running to the front of the car. If that goes bad--and since it's a 67, it almost certainly is--it can cause this. These are cheap.

If that doesn't work, things are no longer cheap because you need the transmission rebuilt by someone who knows how to rebuild this transmission. You can order a rebuilt transmission from aircooled.net or busdepot.com. (Both are very reputable; which you choose depends on where you live. Aircooled.net is in Salt Lake City. Bus Depot is in Pennsylvania. Pick the closest one because these are motor freight items and you pay for that by the mile.) By the time you pay freight and buy all the stuff you need to install a transmission, you're looking at somewhere around $600.

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1964 VWs don't have VIN numbers, they have engine and chassis numbers.

The engine number is stamped into the engine case just below the generator stand.

The chassis number is in three places. The first is on a data plate somewhere near the spare tire well in front. The second is on a plate in the windshield --it's pretty much straight ahead of your left hand while you're holding the steering wheel. And the third is under the back seat on the tunnel.

BTW, do not be alarmed if the number on the transmission tunnel doesn't match the other two numbers; when they were still importing these cars they were common enough that someone who had a rusted-out chassis would go to the junkyard and buy a Bug someone rolled. It's pretty easy to get the body off the chassis, so you'd put your good body on the good chassis, the rolled body on your rusted-out one and have the now-completely-ruined Bug hauled back to the junkyard.

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Jack the car up and put it on jackstands, then unhook the battery.

Next, open the hood and look behind the fan shroud on the right side of the car. There's a 17mm nut. Remove it, that's the top bolt holding the starter in.


Crawl under, find the starter (it's above the CV halfshaft on the right side) and remove the bottom nut holding it in. Pull it back, lower it as far as you can and unhook the two wires coming out of it. One is a push-on, the other uses a 13mm nut.

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Get a tune up, but first see if when you push the clutch all the way in is it still even slightly engaged because if it is then tighten the cable.

Your battery is probably dead/dying. At idle (like when you stop), the charging system isn't always putting out enough juice to keep the car running on it's own, so it uses the battery to keep it running. If your battery is dead when it needs that juice it isn't there and the car dies, then because the battery is dead the car can't turn over and restart itself. I would have the battery checked first, and probably replace it. Also get the generator/voltage regulator checked to make sure it is charging the battery sufficiently.

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It holds 10 gallons.

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My favorite VW oil is 30-weight Shell Rotella T, which is made for old-fashioned hot-running diesels. Our cars are also old-fashioned and hot-running, so it works well.

If you can't get that, just about any quality 10W30 works great.

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The easiest way, and probably the cheapest by the time you're done, is to buy an alternator conversion kit. Because 1967 is the first year of the 12v system, IF your car was 12v from the factory (look in the driver's doorjamb for a "12v" sticker) you won't have to change the radio, bulbs and battery.

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Well...it depends.

A Regular Beetle (flat windshield, no slots in the apron under the front bumper, spare tire upright, steel dashboard) has no springs in either end of the suspension.

A Super Beetle (curved windshield, slots in the front apron, spare tire lying flat, plastic dashboard) has McPherson Strut front suspension with springs around the shocks, but no springs in the rear suspension.

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Yes you can install an AC on a vintage VW Beetle. However, If it has the stock motor in it (probably 1500 cc) I would not recomend it without taking other precautions to help keep the engine cool. You will also lose a lot of horsepower (take off and running power not to mention fuel mileage) if you make this addition. It has been many years since I was into VWs but I believe the 1600 cc is something like 53 horsepower but don't qoute me. I have slept a lot since the early 90's and just don't remember for sure. I would recomend picking up one of the VW mags from a store sometime. There used to be two "VW Trends" and "Hot VWs". If I remember right, VW Trends had the most helpful information and less women in string bikinis. You will be able to find plenty of places that will sell you an aftermarket AC to install on your VW. They probably have covered it at some point in one of the magazines also. You can order backorder issues from them that have all of the info you are looking for.

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The best oil for a VW Beetle is Shell Rotella T 30-weight. This is oil designed for diesel engines. You probably can't get this in Walmart because they only have multigrade Rotella 15W40 (which you can use as a second option) but Autozone and O'Reilly both have it. And before you ask, you almost certainly can't get this at a truck stop--they have 15W40 Rotella, Chevron Delo, Castrol Tection, and Truck Stop Private Label because all the new truck engines use that oil.

The reason for the 30-weight Rotella is it's made to be used in engines that run very hot in normal operation, like the Detroit Diesel 2-stroke engine series. Volkswagen Bug engines also run very hot in normal operation, so this oil is perfect for them.

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Pull the lever as you normally would when adjusting the seat position. Then simply slide the seat all the way forward and out of the rails.

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The only real substantive differences are in the back.

The Beetle engine went from 1300cc to 1500cc in 1967. The 1967 also had the new 12v electrical system, dual circuit brakes (in 1966 and before, all four wheels worked off the same master cylinder--which means if you tear out a brake hose, you lose ALL your hydraulic brakes. In the 1967, if you lose the front hydraulics you still have rear brakes.), and door lock buttons.

In 1968, the bumpers lost their overrider bars and the taillights were redesigned.

The BIG change was in 1969 when VW converted to independent rear suspension. This made the car handle better and be more stable.

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I don't know what year, But I can give this info.:

'H' is A 1500 motor single reliefe.

It can be made into any size motor from 1300 to the 1600 even with big bore kits like 1770.

The oil reliefe is single as opposed to dual on later models. That's fine for normal or even A little hot rodding, But not too much,

It is A good basic VW engine if you are wanting A good dependable daily driver or A off road ride that will be used with care and not trying to see how much abuse it will handle.

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if that is the case ,you can try slowing down the time that you do sex with your girlfriend.it may be more serious if you continue to do sex at this rate you may cause heavy burden to your penis.

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any engine carburated i would go with the 1600

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Near computer for FI in the rear luggage area on right side of car.

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This sounds like an oil leak. More specifically, oil leaking from the valve cover gasket and then dripping on your exhaust somewhere. Replace the valve cover gasket and see if that solves the problem. If it doesn't, search for the leak source and repair it accordingly.

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The "automatic gearbox" Volkswagen used to put in Beetles is an "autostick" transmission. It has a three-speed manual transmission connected to a vacuum-operated clutch and a torque converter. There's no clutch pedal but you still have to shift it.

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Depends on your car! 400-600$ depending how big your car is and the maintenance required!

Hope this helps :)