up until a few years ago you could buy brand new air cooled bugs in Mexico.

now you can only buy a restored one.

i dont know of any engines that started with AD

however

type1

AE 1971/72 1600cc - dual relief, dual port AH 1973/74 1600cc - 8mm head studs with case savers AJ 1975-1979 1600cc - fuel injected type2

AW 1973/74 1800cc - dual carb. AW 1975 1800cc - fuel-injected AP 1974/75 1800cc - European only

type 3

AN 1974 1800cc - 8.6:1 compression AT 1974 1800cc - European only, dual carb.

If it's NOT a Super Beetle (struts) then just search for - lowered front end for Beetle - and you should get alot of hits for parts and info on exactly how. Depends on how much you want to spend and and "how low ya wanna go". Don't forget to tell them what Wheels and Tires you want or have as there is only so much room under the fenders unless you want to buy wider fenders. www2.cip1.com Toplineparts.com (for Super Beetles) mamotorworks.com/acvw and a lot more...

Wanted to add: Super Beetles can be lowered also, suggest using lowering struts and springs although it is possible to modify the original struts if you are a good welder/fabricator. There are numerous narrowed beam type setups for using wider wheels and tires and give room for turning the tires when the car is lowered. There are adjusters which can be welded into the original beams that is the easiest way, again requires a good welder fabricator. There are also lowering spindles which will add disc brakes at the same time, be aware that they can widen the front track a little. A combination of a narrowed beam with adjusters and lowering spindles seems to be the popular setup.

The first beetle arrived to the American soil on January 1949. It was delivered to a

a Dutch businessman named, Ben Pon Sr, who eventually became the world's first official Volkswagen importer.

Should be a 1971 Type 3

No, it has an automatic choke.

For this you don't have to unhook the battery! Step 1: jack up the left side of the car. Crawl under, find the clutch lever and remove the clutch cable adjusting nut. Step 2: open the hood and unhook the accelerator cable. Step 3: remove the two bolts holding the pedal cluster in, and extract the pedal cluster from the car. You will find one of two things: that the clevis on the end of the clutch cable wore through (it's made of pot metal, so it happens), or that the hook on the end of the clutch pedal wore through. The odds of either happening are about equal. If it's the pedal hook, stop what you're doing. Take the pedal cluster away from the car. The hook is pushed into a tube and secured with one small bolt. Remove the bolt, stick a metal rod of some sort on the end of the hook rod that's shoved into the tube, and whack it with a hammer until it comes out. Push a new hook into the tube, align the hole in the tube with the hole in the hook, and install the bolt. Then check the end of the cable just to make sure. If the cable is broken, grab it and pull it out. Take the new cable out of the bag. Dunk it in Rustoleum paint, then hang it up to dry. When it does, thread it into the tube the old one came from, put the clevis on the clutch pedal hook, and reinstall the pedal cluster. Step 4: Crawl back under the car. Thread the end of the cable through the clutch lever, and get the adjusting nut (1966s didn't have wing nuts, but I'd get one when I bought the new cable--they make adjusting the clutch SO nice...) started on the cable. Step 5: Have someone go into the car with a ruler. Press the clutch pedal in about half an inch. When it's down, you screw the adjuster nut down until it touches the clutch lever. Step 6: let the car back down and hook the accelerator cable back up. You're done.

Being old is usually what does it.

If new headlights burn out, do a voltmeter check. If the voltage is much over 14, your voltage regulator is fried.

Some of the warning lights available on the VW Beetle 2001 include a low fuel warning and a seat belt warning. Some other common ones include over-heating engines and the need for an oil top-up.

Not being torqued in the right sequence when the engine was serviced.

Well I know the far right blue one is like a vent and is closed in the up position and blows air when down. I haven't got the others figured out yet.

First, check the fuse box to be sure the fuses that run the headlamp aren't burned out. That happens.

There is a silver trim ring around the headlamp. It's held on with one screw at the bottom; undo the screw and remove the ring. The lamp itself is held on with a retaining ring. It has four screws in it. Two hold it in, two are adjusting screws. Undo the two retaining screws and take off the ring. The headlamp will then fall out. Unplug the connector on the back, plug in a new headlamp, and..."installation is the reverse of removal."

If you haven't changed the oil recently--say, within the last year or so--I would just go ahead and change it.

You will need:

three quarts of either 75W90 or 80W90 hypoid gear oil. Synthetic is really nice if you can afford it; it makes the transmission shift just so nice. The car will work with either weight of oil, and normally an auto parts store will have one or the other but not both.

four feet of the largest-diameter fuel hose you can get

floor jack and four jackstands

tools to remove a tire with

17mm Allen wrench. Sometimes you can get these set up as sockets, and those are really nice.

drain pan

LOTS AND LOTS of rags

Process:

1. Loosen the lug nuts on the left rear tire, jack up the car, get under it and remove the top drain plug. Never, ever remove the bottom plug (which holds the oil in) if you can't get the top plug (where you put the new oil in through) out of the transmission. Once it's out, clean it well and put it somewhere safe.

2. Put the drain pan under the transmission and remove the drain plug. Clean the oil from your hands.

3. Inspect the drain plug closely. It is magnetic. There will be metal shavings stuck to it. You are driving a 37-year-old car so this is okay. There should NOT be chunks of metal stuck to it. If there are, go on the Internet and find a rebuilt transmission because yours has had it. This doesn't happen often but it can so watch for it. Clean the crud off the plug.

4. After all the oil drains out, reinstall the plug. Get it good and tight but don't get stupid because your transmission case is made of aluminum.

5. Pull the drain pan over so it's sticking out past the left side of the transmission, but don't take it all the way out from under the car. Get out from under there.

6. Take off the left rear tire if you haven't done that yet and look in the wheelwell. You'll see the fill hole on the side of the transmission. Stick one end of the fuel hose in that hole.

7. Take the little cap off one quart of gear oil and snip the spout just enough that the oil will come out. You'll then have to remove the spout, take off the protective seal, and put the spout back on. Stick the spout in the end of the fuel hose and hold the bottle upside down. Cut a hole in the bottom of the bottle so the oil will drain into the transmission through the hose. It should be a small hole because you don't want it to go in quickly--this oil is very thick.

8. Repeat step 7 with the second quart of oil.

9. Repeat step 8 with the third quart but do not cut a hole in the bottle. You are going to squeeze the sides of the bottle to make oil go into the transmission. Not all of this bottle will fit. When the oil starts coming out of the hole, let it drain (now you know why you put the pan under the fill hole!) until it stops, then stick your finger in the hole. If the oil is level with the bottom of the hole, it's full.

10. Screw the plug back in, put the wheel back on and put the car on the ground. You're done.

Note: The official Volkswagen instructions say to get under the car with the oil container and put it straight into the transmission. They don't mention the hose. That's something I came up with because gear oil bottles are a different shape than they used to be, and they won't fit where they need to go now.

Located and threaded into the master cylinder, it works off brake fluid pressure. Make sure it has power going into one of the terminals and will have power out with the pedal depressed. Note thatthe brake lights won't work if there is a problem with your brake fluid level beingextremely low, or you can't get the pedal to pump up (works different from most cars).

The fuse for the A/C on a 2003 Volkswagen Beetle is located in the engine compartment. It is a large, square fuse. Larger fuses of this type are placed in a fuse box in the engine compartment to keep injury away from the driver if they malfunction.

When the car came from the factory, they were fixed.

I will assume the heads, pistons, and cylinders are off.
take off the flywheel, the crank pulley, the oil sump plate, and the oil pump - four nuts and it pulls out.
Find all of the 8mm bolts and nuts (13mm wrench size) nand remove.

Take the big nuts off the six studs protruding from the case.

Now look again for any more bolts you may have missed.

You might need to gently use a rubber hammer to get the sealant to release between the case halves, or even a wooden block. But if the case seems stuck, look for more bolts!

A stand really helps for this. But when the case comes apart, you want the side with the big nuts up, and you can expect the valve lifters on this side to fall into the other side of the engine (no big deal, but if they hit the concrete, they are probably junk.)

This is not any harder than tearing down the top of the engine. Just go slow, look for more bolts, don't pry on anything, and you'll be fine.

drop spindles. bout 150 for two

Pull the lever as you normally would when adjusting the seat position. Then simply slide the seat all the way forward and out of the rails.

On the main body of the transaxle you will notice two allen screw plugs, one at the bottom and one on the side. These take a 17 mm size allen wrench available at many classic VW parts sources for little money. Fill the transaxle to the bottom of the side opening to where it just begins to run out. Of course if you wish you can drain the transaxle by removing the bottom one, might be a good idea if it hasn't been done in years.

Pull the turn signal arm toward you.

i have the same code i search on the internet and i found that is the MAF sensor (mass air flow sensor) clean it or replace it it cost about 100

The cabin air filter is located on the firewall. It is on the inside of the car behind a cover just under the glove box.