Air-Cooled VW

it could be a heater core leaking, or the seals around those windows, or maybe a windshield seal leaking

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This is an aircooled VW question so we know it's not a heater core--aircooled cars don't have them. My first guess is holes in the floorpan.

depending on RHD / LHD

i assume your car is left hand drive,

thake the cap of the wheel ( small black cap ) behind it is another black cap with a square hole and the speedo cable sticking through,

take the clip off.

now go into the dash, if its a 73 standard you shound be able to get it from the trunk and just unscrew it.

if it's a super then take the panel with the headlight window defroster and emergency flasher switches of by taking the smaller pannels out on either side, and a screw in the middle,

you now have a hole to stick your hand in and unscrew the cable,

also you can push the speedo out if u like, it doesnt bolt on to anything, it just sits in the rubber grommet

A 1974 VW has an alternator, and it's pretty easy to change:

buy a rebuilt one

unhook the battery

remove the carb, hood and fan belt

unhook the wires going to the alternator, and the strap holding it to the alternator stand

remove all the screws holding the fan shroud on and lift the fan shroud out of the car

there is a nut on the front holding the fan on, and a nut on the back holding the pulley on. Remove both nuts, then the things they held on. Don't lose any of the washers under the pulley cup!

There are four bolts holding the alternator backing plate to the fan shroud. Take them off, then lift the alternator away from the fan shroud.

There are four MORE bolts holding the alternator to the backing plate. Remove them too, and separate the alternator from the backing plate.

Once this is done, bolt the new alternator in place and "installation is the reverse of removal."

2500ml, or a bit over 2.5 quarts.

No, a 1967 Beetle hood will not fit a 1974 Beetle without modifications. The body design and mounting points of the two models differ, particularly due to changes in the front end and the shape of the hood over the years. If you want to swap hoods, it would require adjustments to ensure proper fitment.

One end of the cable runs through a hole in the left (driver's) side spindle and is attached to the wheel bearing dust cover, the other end is attached to the speedometer.

That would require some serious machining. Far easier simply to get an alternator to install instead.

I don't know what year, But I can give this info.:

'H' is A 1500 motor single reliefe.

It can be made into any size motor from 1300 to the 1600 even with big bore kits like 1770.

The oil reliefe is single as opposed to dual on later models. That's fine for normal or even A little hot rodding, But not too much,

It is A good basic VW engine if you are wanting A good dependable daily driver or A off road ride that will be used with care and not trying to see how much abuse it will handle.

It could be a few things.

The first thing I do is turn the car on and look at the two idiot lights in the speedometer. If they didn't both come on, your problem is somewhere between the battery and the coil. The electricity to power the coil, which is where your spark comes from, comes out of the battery, goes through a 40-year-old piece of wire, a 40-year-old switch, a 40-year-old fusebox with possibly a 40-year-old fuse in it, then through ANOTHER 40-year-old wire (which is running past the transmission so it gets nice and hot all the time, which damages wire) through the firewall to the coil. There are LOTS of points of failure there!

If you have voltage at the coil, there are not many things it could be:

The condenser could be fried.

The rotor could be dirty.

The coil could be bad.

The points could be misadjusted.

The wire from the coil to the distributor could be bad.

Or, best of all, the distributor could be loose and popped out so it's not making contact with the distributor drive.

up until a few years ago you could buy brand new air cooled bugs in Mexico.

now you can only buy a restored one.

i dont know of any engines that started with AD

however

type1

AE 1971/72 1600cc - dual relief, dual port AH 1973/74 1600cc - 8mm head studs with case savers AJ 1975-1979 1600cc - fuel injected type2

AW 1973/74 1800cc - dual carb. AW 1975 1800cc - fuel-injected AP 1974/75 1800cc - European only

type 3

AN 1974 1800cc - 8.6:1 compression AT 1974 1800cc - European only, dual carb.

If it's NOT a Super Beetle (struts) then just search for - lowered front end for Beetle - and you should get alot of hits for parts and info on exactly how. Depends on how much you want to spend and and "how low ya wanna go". Don't forget to tell them what Wheels and Tires you want or have as there is only so much room under the fenders unless you want to buy wider fenders. www2.cip1.com Toplineparts.com (for Super Beetles) mamotorworks.com/acvw and a lot more...

Wanted to add: Super Beetles can be lowered also, suggest using lowering struts and springs although it is possible to modify the original struts if you are a good welder/fabricator. There are numerous narrowed beam type setups for using wider wheels and tires and give room for turning the tires when the car is lowered. There are adjusters which can be welded into the original beams that is the easiest way, again requires a good welder fabricator. There are also lowering spindles which will add disc brakes at the same time, be aware that they can widen the front track a little. A combination of a narrowed beam with adjusters and lowering spindles seems to be the popular setup.

The first beetle arrived to the American soil on January 1949. It was delivered to a

a Dutch businessman named, Ben Pon Sr, who eventually became the world's first official Volkswagen importer.

Should be a 1971 Type 3

No, it has an automatic choke.

For this you don't have to unhook the battery! Step 1: jack up the left side of the car. Crawl under, find the clutch lever and remove the clutch cable adjusting nut. Step 2: open the hood and unhook the accelerator cable. Step 3: remove the two bolts holding the pedal cluster in, and extract the pedal cluster from the car. You will find one of two things: that the clevis on the end of the clutch cable wore through (it's made of pot metal, so it happens), or that the hook on the end of the clutch pedal wore through. The odds of either happening are about equal. If it's the pedal hook, stop what you're doing. Take the pedal cluster away from the car. The hook is pushed into a tube and secured with one small bolt. Remove the bolt, stick a metal rod of some sort on the end of the hook rod that's shoved into the tube, and whack it with a hammer until it comes out. Push a new hook into the tube, align the hole in the tube with the hole in the hook, and install the bolt. Then check the end of the cable just to make sure. If the cable is broken, grab it and pull it out. Take the new cable out of the bag. Dunk it in Rustoleum paint, then hang it up to dry. When it does, thread it into the tube the old one came from, put the clevis on the clutch pedal hook, and reinstall the pedal cluster. Step 4: Crawl back under the car. Thread the end of the cable through the clutch lever, and get the adjusting nut (1966s didn't have wing nuts, but I'd get one when I bought the new cable--they make adjusting the clutch SO nice...) started on the cable. Step 5: Have someone go into the car with a ruler. Press the clutch pedal in about half an inch. When it's down, you screw the adjuster nut down until it touches the clutch lever. Step 6: let the car back down and hook the accelerator cable back up. You're done.

Being old is usually what does it.

If new headlights burn out, do a voltmeter check. If the voltage is much over 14, your voltage regulator is fried.

Some of the warning lights available on the VW Beetle 2001 include a low fuel warning and a seat belt warning. Some other common ones include over-heating engines and the need for an oil top-up.

Not being torqued in the right sequence when the engine was serviced.

Well I know the far right blue one is like a vent and is closed in the up position and blows air when down. I haven't got the others figured out yet.

First, check the fuse box to be sure the fuses that run the headlamp aren't burned out. That happens.

There is a silver trim ring around the headlamp. It's held on with one screw at the bottom; undo the screw and remove the ring. The lamp itself is held on with a retaining ring. It has four screws in it. Two hold it in, two are adjusting screws. Undo the two retaining screws and take off the ring. The headlamp will then fall out. Unplug the connector on the back, plug in a new headlamp, and..."installation is the reverse of removal."

If you haven't changed the oil recently--say, within the last year or so--I would just go ahead and change it.

You will need:

three quarts of either 75W90 or 80W90 hypoid gear oil. Synthetic is really nice if you can afford it; it makes the transmission shift just so nice. The car will work with either weight of oil, and normally an auto parts store will have one or the other but not both.

four feet of the largest-diameter fuel hose you can get

floor jack and four jackstands

tools to remove a tire with

17mm Allen wrench. Sometimes you can get these set up as sockets, and those are really nice.

drain pan

LOTS AND LOTS of rags

Process:

1. Loosen the lug nuts on the left rear tire, jack up the car, get under it and remove the top drain plug. Never, ever remove the bottom plug (which holds the oil in) if you can't get the top plug (where you put the new oil in through) out of the transmission. Once it's out, clean it well and put it somewhere safe.

2. Put the drain pan under the transmission and remove the drain plug. Clean the oil from your hands.

3. Inspect the drain plug closely. It is magnetic. There will be metal shavings stuck to it. You are driving a 37-year-old car so this is okay. There should NOT be chunks of metal stuck to it. If there are, go on the Internet and find a rebuilt transmission because yours has had it. This doesn't happen often but it can so watch for it. Clean the crud off the plug.

4. After all the oil drains out, reinstall the plug. Get it good and tight but don't get stupid because your transmission case is made of aluminum.

5. Pull the drain pan over so it's sticking out past the left side of the transmission, but don't take it all the way out from under the car. Get out from under there.

6. Take off the left rear tire if you haven't done that yet and look in the wheelwell. You'll see the fill hole on the side of the transmission. Stick one end of the fuel hose in that hole.

7. Take the little cap off one quart of gear oil and snip the spout just enough that the oil will come out. You'll then have to remove the spout, take off the protective seal, and put the spout back on. Stick the spout in the end of the fuel hose and hold the bottle upside down. Cut a hole in the bottom of the bottle so the oil will drain into the transmission through the hose. It should be a small hole because you don't want it to go in quickly--this oil is very thick.

8. Repeat step 7 with the second quart of oil.

9. Repeat step 8 with the third quart but do not cut a hole in the bottle. You are going to squeeze the sides of the bottle to make oil go into the transmission. Not all of this bottle will fit. When the oil starts coming out of the hole, let it drain (now you know why you put the pan under the fill hole!) until it stops, then stick your finger in the hole. If the oil is level with the bottom of the hole, it's full.

10. Screw the plug back in, put the wheel back on and put the car on the ground. You're done.

Note: The official Volkswagen instructions say to get under the car with the oil container and put it straight into the transmission. They don't mention the hose. That's something I came up with because gear oil bottles are a different shape than they used to be, and they won't fit where they need to go now.

Located and threaded into the master cylinder, it works off brake fluid pressure. Make sure it has power going into one of the terminals and will have power out with the pedal depressed. Note thatthe brake lights won't work if there is a problem with your brake fluid level beingextremely low, or you can't get the pedal to pump up (works different from most cars).