VW Super Beetle

the Beetle is the most-manufactured automobile of a single design platform anywhere in the world.From 1945 onwards the model was internally designated the Volkswagen Type 1, and marketed simply as the "Volkswagen". Later models were designated VW 1200, 1300, 1500, 1302 or 1303, the former three indicating engine displacement and the latter two being derived from the type number and not indicative of engine capacity.

Hi Bob, first of all buy the Bently manual for your year of bug. It is extremely helpful and pretty in depth on fixing things. I just did my wifes '72 and my '75. There is an inner panel you have to un-clip from the sun roof panel on the inside and slide it back and then you can see the tracks on either side of the Sun Roof. The handle by the rear view mirror rotates a gear that moves two externally splined cables back and forth. The Cables are connected to the Sun Roof panel by two semi-fragile pot metal like alum connectors. Either the small gear at the handle has stripped the cable (you should be able to hear a clicking noise), or the connectors are broken. If you can help move the panel back by hand as you turn the handle, then use the handle to finish opening it, then it's probably the stripped cable. If you can see the cables move when turning the handle and the panel doesn't move, then its the cable connectors. You should be able to see the cables on either side move. You will have to by new cables one way or the other. Not cheap. But it's sure nice to have it working in the summer. = Answer == Hi My name is Bob. I live in SE Massachuesetts. I just got a '73 Super Beetle with a sunroof. I've been trying to find out how to take a sunroof out that does not crank at all. I've soaked the area around the sunroof with magic mystory oil and WD-40 for a few days now. I may have a source on how to install a sunroof.... My Email is ka1dza@adelphia.net Bob

Infact in super beetles the company were offering 3 types of engines. Single manifold 1200 Twin port 1300 Twin port 1600 http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cLzBUiSf-oA/Te_E-EJywPI/AAAAAAAABT0/Lr6Z8jqIrmY/s1600/VW_1966.jpg http://photos2.donedeal.ie/View2-9708681.jpeg http://api.vwheritage.com/_img/large/166287_01_large.jpg If you are still unsure of your engine type then here is something else you can do. VW stamped all type 1's and pre '72 type 2's on the right case half just below the generator pedestal. The first and sometimes the second digit/letter denotes the basic engine group. So the best you can do is narrow down the engine to a group. Here are the groups Type 1 -Beetle Code Year Engine Remarks 4 - 60 - 1200 - 40 HP 5 - 61 - 1200 - 40 HP 6 - 62 - 1200 - 40 HP 7 - 63 - 1200 - 40 HP 8 - 64 - 1200 - 40 HP 9 - 65 - 1200 - 40 HP FO - 66 - 1300 - 8mm oil pump studs HO/TO- 67 - 1500 - 8mm oil pump studs H5 - 68-69 - 1500 - 8mm oil pump studs B6 - 70 - 1600 - Dual Relief - single port AE - 71-72 - 1600 - Dual Relief - Dual Port AH - 73-74 - 1600 - 8mm Head studs w/case savers AJ - 75 - 1600 - Fuel injected, no fuel pump mount. Type 2 - Bus Code Year Engine Remarks Numerals 61-63 - 1200 - See type 1 40 HP O - 64 - 1500 - No Cam bearings H - 65 - 1500 HO - 66-67 - 1500 - No Cross member holes B5 - 68-69 - 1600 - 8mm oil pump studs, single port B5 - 70 - 1600 - Dual Relief AE - 71 - 1600 - W/cross member holes Late Bus CB - 72-73 - 1700 - Dual carb, manual trans CD - 73 - 1700 - Dual carb, auto trans AW - 73-74 - 1800 - Dual carb, manual or auto AW - 75 - 1800 - Fuel injected ED - 75 - 2000 GD - 76-79 - 2000 - 79 had Vanagon heads GE - 79 - 2000 - Cal only, Vanagon heads Type 3 Notchback - Fastback - Standard Code Year Engine Remarks O - 63-65 - 1500 - No Cam Bearings TO - 66-67 - 1500 - 6mm oil pump studs UO - 68-69 - 1600 - Fuel injected '69 w/xmember holes UO - 70 - 1600 - xmember holes, dual relief U5 - 71-73 - 1600 - like UO w/xmember holes 7.3:1 compresion X - 72 - 1600 - 7.3:1 compresion After Market Cases Code Year Engine Remarks F1 - 13/1600 F2 - 13/1600 DO - 40-HP part when last digit is "X" D1 - Some times a 40-HP part AB - 66-79 - 1600 - Built since '73 in Mexico, Brazil and Germany AK - 67-74 - 15/1600 AM - 1600 AS - sometimes listed as a Super Beetle original case '73 and on Type 4 Late Bus Code Year Engine Remarks W - 71 - 1700 EA - 72-74 - 1700 EB - 73 - 1700 - Calif only EC - 74 - 1700 Hope this will help Wanted to add: in the US only the 1600 cc engine was offered for the 74 Super Beetle.

Busbones.com has a partial how to do vw headliner install. Last 2 parts unavailable but lots of info. First you have to buy a good quality headliner. A few common handtools will come in handy. at this point you should also order new rubber seals for the front, rear and both quarter windows. The windows have to be removed in order to replace the headliner. The primary tool used will be a short blade putty knife (I used a bench grinder to dull the blade on mine so it would not cut the headliner fabric) which is used to tuck the fabric into the tabs that hold it in. There are steel rods called bows that fit through sleeves sewn into the headliner, these fit into tracks on the sides of the car's roof. The bows create the domed look of the headliner. You can start from the front or the back using clothes pins to hold the headliner in place so you can get things organized. You will have to pull the headliner tight and even so you do not have wrinckles. I used regular contact cement on my headliner and it worked great but you can use other types of adhesive if you want. After getting the headliner stretched front to rear you start on the sides. It is just about impossible to explain how to attache the sides, the best thing to do is to remove a headliner and pay attention to how it was installed. When you start take your time, getting in a hurry will only cause you to lower your quality standards and you will regret it later.

http://www.dbsforums.com/azel.html use this to coordinate azimuth, elevation and angle.

I found help with the color-coded wiring for my 1992 Silverado at the site in the Related Links. For 1992 k1500 -Remove old radio above Temperate controls. -Remove Tape deck/vent housing. -Reach or fish factory wire harness and antenna from where the old radio unit was and bring it to where the old tape deck was. -Connect the new wire harness and antenna extender to the old one coming from where the tape deck used to be. -Connect wires from harness to wires on your CD player harness or other unit (usually color coded) -Connect antenna. -Turn on make sure everything works. -Install Pocket above temp controls. -Install after market vent/CD mount Done Basically stereo installation is the same for almost any vehical. There are 3 main wires you need to worry about in addition to the speaker wires... Stereo side: -Red = Main 12V supply to radio, gets connected to the red wire. This is switched on/off by the ignition with the key. -Black = Ground wire typically goes to black wire on Car side -Yellow = This is a constand low power 12V connection that keeps presets and time while ignition is off Car side: Typically the late model cars/trucks have wire harnesses that have molex connectors that fit the factory stereo. You can either go to your local electronics store/stereo store and get a wire harness kit for your make/model. This will plug right into the factory connector and have loos, clearly marked wires out the other side that connect directly to your stereo. Hope that helps! i have a 94 and if they are the same then you have to plug the wiring harness into the "brain" below the dash if you are good with pulling wires then it should go fairly smoothly. red and red together yellow and yellow together speaker wires youre done This is the same as i just posted for the 1990, they years didnt change First off, if you want to do it yourself here is a list of what you have to have: * CD Player * You need the plastic piece that replaces the vents and small cubby hole in the center of your dash, this will be the new loaction of your CD player, it will have an opening in the where the cubby hole used to be that the CD player will fit in. (can be found at any electronics store) * Wiring Connector (can be bought at walmart or any car audio store) * You will also need an antenna adapter (it should come with the wiring connector, but it might not. There is a piece that fills the hole of the old stereo that is highly recommended but not required just depends if you care if there is a large gapping hole in your dash To Install it: 1st reach under the dash and look for a silver (looks almost like an amp) box with a wired plug coming out of the bottom. These are all of the wires that go to your factory stereo. after unplugging it you can easily remove the factory stereo. Remove the silver box, there is only 1 screw holding it in and it is directly on the bottom. After you remove it, there will be a connector on the top of it which will plug into your Wiring Connector that you should have bought earlier. The antenna wire also plugs into the top of this silver box. After all this the factory stereo should be completely un-installed (no cutting of any wires should have been required) Next you should take off the piece of plastic that contains the center vents and cubby hole. It is easy to pry with the glove box door open. There are 2 bottom clips that are to be pryed out and the top 2 slide out the bottom. Now you can reroute the set of wires and the antenna wire to the new location of the stereo, this may be kind of tough. Take the Wiring connector you bought and the wiring connector that came with the stereo and crimp all the appropriate wires together using splice connectors and a crimping tool...they should be the same color, but check the instructions that came with the CD player and wiring connector to be sure. After that the connections should slide togethor and the CD player should turn on with the key on. The rest you should be able to figure out since it is only mounting the CD player in the new plastic piece which is very straight forward. You will have a hole where the factory stereo used to be, stores like crutchfield and other audio shops have a piece that fits in there as a cubby hole. All of the things needed for this project can be bought at crutchfield.com, you might be able to get all of it from stores like best buy, or walmart. A friend and I just did this last night and we bought everything from walmart, however they didnt have the piece where the old stereo used to be.

To replace the fuel pump, you must unhook the fuel lines from the fuel tank and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle. The fuel pump is actually inside the tank.

how do u wire a new jvc raido into a 73 super beetle

A range from 4,079 millimeters (160.6 inches) to 4,278 millimeters (168.4 inches) answers questions regarding the length of the Volkswagen Beetle. The first figure represents the length in the Volkwagen Beetle Type 1 manufactured from 1938 to 2010 while the second shows the length of the A5 VW Beetle produced since 2011. In-between the two extremes stands a length of 4,129 millimeters (162.6 inches) for the VW New Beetle released between 1997 and 2010.

With jackstands and wrenches. 1. Unhook the battery. 2. Open the hood, reach behind the engine on the right-hand side and find the 17mm nut. Remove this. That holds the top bolt in place. 3. Crawl under and remove the bendix wire, the starter wire, and the bottom bolt. 4. Use both hands to pull the starter back, then out of the car. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. A word of caution - please! 1. I removed my starter exactly as answered. My replacement starter came with a small brass bushing attached and instructions that stated "I must relplace the old bushing with this new one" 2. Upon more research I found some "yes you have to's" and some "not always" 3. I decided upon prudence and removed the old bushing. This is done by getting a tap of the right size (forgot size at the moment) and tapping out the hole, which makes the old bushing ride up the tap. 4. I was proud since I was almost done, I thought. 5. Instructions indicated that the new bushing needs to be tapped into the now empty hole. Tap-tap-tap...it would not go in now matter how I tried. Compared sizes and discover the old and new bushings were identical. 6. Tip number 1: if the old bushing is identical in size and it's in good shape, don't try to replace it. 7. I continued to fiddle with the bushing when it slipped out my slightly greasy hands and fell. Where did it fall? Well, there is an opening in the flywheel bell housing directly beneath the bushing hole. This opening is very small and the bell housing is very deep and dark and greasy. 8. My heart sank. I tried everything to retrieve the new bushing -- no success. Being brass, no magnet I had would server as bait, and gum and other sticky globs failed to find and grab the missing bushing. 9. I was afraid to just leave it in there so I called around and my best and favorite mechanic finally gave me the bad news. "Gotta drop the engine so we can take the housing apart to remove the bushing." 10. So there. I hope this doesn't happen to anyone else. In hindsight, it would have been trivial to cover the offending opening before beginning the bushing operation. That's what I'll do if I ever have to replace a starter again.

check the driver door, driver door frame, or inside the gas fill cap for a label telling you what your tire pressure should be.

Answer Hi, there. This is exactly what happened to my '99 Trooper. Believe it or not, both the low beam filaments went out at the same time. I replaced on bulb and, bingo, low beams worked. Then, I replaced the other bulb and got the same result. Good luck. Hope this works for you. -------- Hello, this is Lee adding a bit more to the answer. Burned out bulbs suggest "high vehicle voltage levels".. High voltage levels are caused by a battery developing high internal resistance or a high resistance in the battery ground cable. Automobiles typically use an alternator that charges the battery at a constant current. If the battery or the wire connecting the battery's negative terminal to the engine block develops a high resistance, then the voltage of the entire vehicle climbs a half a volt or maybe even a whole volt above normal. It turns out high intensity headlight bulbs quickly start blowing out when they are fed a little too much voltage. So here is a checklist. Check the voltage drop for the battery to engine block ground connection. Check the battery connections. Remake as indicated. Does the battery need water? Not a very common problem these days, but small battery vehicles like motorcycles will develop a cell with low water. Is the vehicle battery at it's age limit? Aging car batteries sometimes develop higher internal resistance.

The car will stop when you pull the brake handle, but it won't stay up? Easy fix: there is a metal thing in there down by the handle's pivot point that looks like part of a gear, and a plastic thing that meshes with it to hold the handle where you want it. (Lovely technical terms, eh?) The plastic thing, and sometimes the part-gear, has worn out. Things happen in 38 years. The fix is to buy an E-brake handle rebuild kit and install it in the brake handle.

Try Wolfsburg West Try www.wolfsburgwest.com They have just about everything imagineable for old Volkswagen restoration. Another good source for VW parts, books, and dress up is www.mamotorworks.com

1432 - it should be stamped on the generator / oil fill tube base preceded by something like "Zündungauftrag" or "zündfolge" which means "firing order." 1-4-3-2

Traction is one reason, as the engine and transmission are on top of the drive wheels. Another reason was that the engine and transmission could be built, installed, and replaced as a packaged unit. That also freed up more room for the occupants. The rear engine location allowed for the frontal area of the car to be lowered, giving the car a more (for the 1930's) aerodynamic shape. The car needed all the aerodynamic help it could get, as it was intended to carry 2 adults, 2 children, and their luggage down the road at 100km/h on a budget, all with Depression Era technology. The drawbacks to rear engine designs include: 1) Poor engine access. 2) Tricky handling at the vehicle's limits unless there is careful engineering and suspension setup. 3) More involved linkages for transmission and engine controls. 4) As the front wheels turn side to side for steering, the front wheel wells must be big enough to accommodate them, leaving less room for the fuel tank, spare tire, and luggage. Those drawbacks became less acceptable in economy cars as time went on, for advances in constant velocity axle joints enabled engineers to economically mount engine and transmission over the front driven wheels, giving compact cars rear engine-like traction, but with more luggage room, more forgiving handling, and better engine access.

I have some charts showing the meaning of the number and letter sequence in old VW vin numbers. All depends on how old the owner is as to whether i can help with decoding for you. If you want to let me have the vin I'll see if i can help.Dave.

The cable is routed through a metal tube made into the center "tunnel" in the floor pan. It also goes through the engine fan housing inside another tube. I would not suggest trying to thread a used cable with a frayed end back through the tube. Get a new cable and consult the Robert Bentley manual for more details.

Answer The super beetle has a curved windshield and different front suspension. There may be other differences. Answer The superbeetle is completely different from the windshield forward. It had the curved windshield, strut suspension instead of torsion beam ,and a redesigned trunk area for more space. The easiest way to spot the difference is the windshield, or the spare tire. In standard beetles it stands up, in supers it lays down. From the windshield back they are essentially the same car. True for the '74, but some Super Beetles had flat windshields. The easiest way to distinguish between the two types is to look at the front hood. On all Super Beetles the indentations on the hood are wider at the bottom, on either side of the latch handle. On regular Beetles the hood indentations are pointed at the bottom. Another answer ONLY Super Beetles have Strut front suspensions.

Go to the J30 DIY section on fuzzycats.com. There are detailled step by step instructions in doing repair work to a J30 sunroof. Warning it is labour intensive work.

Answer You may want to check the low beam fuse located in the fuse box, the fuse box maybe either be under the driver's side dashboard or under the hood, if that doesn't work then you may have a loose ground wire for the low beam and need to trace a green or brown wire coming from the head lights to see if it is exposed or loose. **In addition, There is a recall on the headlight switch for 2001 civic (and perhaps many others.) This is a safety recall and it affects all vehicles regardless of whether you are the original owner. But beware when bringing your civic into the dealership to have the work done - They don't particulary like doing recall work without hitting you in the wallet on the way out. I brought mine to Silko Honda in Raynham, MA and they replaced the switch - only to tell me I still needed head lamp bulbs at $35 per side (and with no Vasiline to go along with the deal, if you know what I mean..) I took the car home, removed the steering column cover, disconnected the directional plug and cleaned the contacts (the one for the low beam was a bit dirty, interestingly.) After performing this tedium, low and behold: My headlights worked ($70 for bulbs my A$$.) So in short, first get to the directional plug and clean the contacts. You may not even need to have the switch changed out. But if you do, wear a chastity belt before going into the stealership. They have one goal and one goal only: To drain your pocket as much as they can.

If you open up the fuel door the tire psi information is in there. I have a 2001 VW Beetle and my tire psi should be between "28 to a MAX of 38 psi.

the hinges should have pins remove um and its off

It can be several things but try: 1. Replace the headlight globe - might have a dead low beam fillament (while your there clean the headlight plug terminals) 2. Check the Low Beam Fuse - Fuse 3 for left fuse 4 for right 3. Remove and clean all the earths for the headlights (in the 'boot') you can chase the wires from the rubber grommet in the guard to the point where they attach to the body( usually on the chassis rail on either side of the spare wheel) 4. if theres still no joy remove the top terminal from the fuse box and clean the terminals ( right should be white with a blue stripe and left will be plain white)

i always had a meter with dwell on it you adj your points base and keep the gap the same Addition to above: Haven't messed with a points ignition in quite some time, but still have a Sun distributor machine and remember how to do it, if it's a dual point distributor the easiest way is to block one of the sets of points with a matchbook cover or thin piece of cardboard in between the points and set the dwell on the other set, then put the matchbook cover between the point set you just set the dwell on and set the dwell on the other set, then remove the matchbook cover and your done. If you're doing this on the car (as opposed to doing it on a distributor machine) you should then re-set or at least check the timing.