No, of course not. There is no capsule or tablet that you can put in your gas tank that will improve your mileage. These things are just a scam and may harm your vehicle. Be sensible and don't waste your money.
mine is between 4700 and 5000 pounds
On a Manual Transmission Located on Left Hand Side of Trans. As for the Automatic Transmission your on your own. Hope This Helps.
If it is a 1/2 ton then it will have 6
The 3/4 ton will have 8
if the engine rolls over by the starter it either has no fire or its not getting any gas. if you have a combination of gas and fire it has to at least make an atempt to fireup when you try to start it. If your truck is turning over but isn't catching, or isn't getting any fire, check your distributor cap and rotor (if you have them) to make sure there are no carbon deposits, arc tracks from pole to pole or water inside. If that is okay, check your coil wire to make sure it is functioning correctly. Take the coil wire lead NOT connected to the coil and hold it within about a half-inch away from the rocker arm cover (or other metal surface...NOT the carb.)and have someone turn the ignition over. You should see a spark arcing between the wire and the metal. If no spark... you could have a bad coil, or possibly (hopefully?) just a bad coil wire. Check all your spark plug wires and make sure they are dry...on the inside especially... and seated on the spark plugs tightly. Did you check your gas? Surprisingly, much of the time that is the only thing wrong. Unless you know for sure that the gas gauge is correct, add some more gas to make positive that you have enough. If you have water in your gas, adding more fuel will make the gas-to-water ratio better to start and run with. Lastly, there is a possibility that although the engine is turning over, there may not be enough juice in the battery to actually start the car. Try getting a jump from another truck or a vehicle with a battery that is rated at 850 or higher cranking power. Remember, everytime you try and start the engine, a bit of your battery's energy gets used up and if the engine isn't running, the battery is NOT getting recharged. Did you check your Fuel line? if your fuel line is plugged you will not revive any fuel from the tank to the carburator.Check it and see if it is plugged. Good luck!! Happy cranking!! :) Mike Morris...Muskegon, MI thats for gasoline engines above, how about diesel engines 1) if no cranks check starter an circuit/battery if cranks move to #2 2) no fuel or water in fuel or frozen if winter also if ran out of fuel, you got air in the system, need to bleed the air out of injector pump by opening injector lines...caution for pressure excede's 1,600 bar/25,000 psi, will cut your fingers like a lazer. 3) if has fuel an cranks check glow plugs are working or compression of diesel engine is to low to fire fuel. 4) machanicial parts failure of engine, eg. roots blower,turbo 5) check all fluids levels, on todays trucks have computers that will stop you from driving.
Very easy process should take you less than 20 minutes. First buy a replacement check strap from your place of choice (GM Dealer, Ebay, or RockAuto.com.
Make sure you memorize or take a picture of the assembly as-is before you take it apart! Be certain you know the direction of the
Remove the Circlip.
Locate the "Circlip" (possibly called a C-Clip as well) that is seated horizontally in a slot/channel encircling the very bottom of the pin. Using a standard (slotted/non Philip's head) screw driver, push the screwdriver into one of the slots in the center of the circlip near the wall of the pin. Carefully (while maintaining upward pressure on the screwdriver) pull the clip back towards you. It might take a few tries, as the circlip has built in tension to keep it from sliding off, but with a little work you should be able to slide the clip out of its channel. Be sure to catch the pin and put it aside for now (don't lose it).
Remove the pin.
Using the same screw driver as above push the screw driver under the top head of the pin and the top framing. Carefully pull/pry the pin straight up. Once you get it lifted a bit you can either continue to pull the pin up utilizing the screw driver or grab a pair of pliers and remove the entire pin. If the pin is really stuck for some reason - if you can get it up enough to put an adjustable wrench or pliers underneath the head of the pin's lip you can gently hammer the wrench/pliers up, which should help in extracting the pin.
Once the pin is removed the check strap should come completely off.
Take the spring off the of the old check strap and then the plastic sleeve/washer. Now replace the sleeve/washer on the new check strap. Make sure you have the sleeve/washer and check strap oriented the same way as it came off.
Now you are ready to install the new check strap.
This can be just a little tricky as you will need to put the spring around the plastic sleeve and using a little pressure line up the hole in the sleeve with the top hole of the check strap framing. When you have those two holes line up you will then need to push the pin down though the top of the frame and through the sleeve and then through the bottom framing rail. You may need to lightly tap this in with a hammer and it may not be a bad idea to spray the whole thing down with a silicone lubricant to have the pin slide though everything easier. Also be careful not to damage the plastic sleeve while pushing the pin through.
Once you have the pin completely situated you will need to push the circlip back into place. I have found using a pair of needle nose pliers does this job pretty well, but if you are careful you can probably just use the screw driver to push it back on.
You know of course there's the one on the dash that is visible on the driver's side. You might also want to check on the inside of the door frame... sometimes it is there along with the other information about your chevy. Check the under side of your hood. Check underneath your dash for a vin number stamped somewhere on the metal usually located around the steering column.
The recruits rushed into battle so that no one could gibe at them for cowardice.
Just to the left of the steering colum along the fire wall inside the cab.
There is a belt tightener on the alternator which must be loosened to take the belt off. After the belt is loose, remove the bottom mounting bolt and the alternator is off. you will also need to remove the wiring.
There is none!!
The good news is that changing sensors isn't too hard. The bad news is that there are four sensors on the exhaust (two pre-cat and two post-cat-- cat being catylitic converter). The rear ones run about $60 each and the front ones, according to my parts man, are about $120 each.
No special tool is needed, but try to get as much room under the truck as you can. All four sensors are visible and accessible. They are variously screwed into each of the exhaust pipes. To remove, I used a crescent wrench, but I think the nuts (part of the sensor) are 7/8. Find and disconnect the wire connector before unscrewing the sensor. (Note: there is a small clip that must be removed from the connector before you can lift the locking flange.) The new wire connector comes as a part of the new sensor.
From there, simply unscrew the old sensor, treat the threads on the new sensor (with the goop that's included in the box), screw it in, then reattach the wire connector.
This is probably not one of the most professional answers, but I hope it helps.
Check the bottom of the engine oil pan.
if i remember correctly when you first crank the engine the oil pressure should be around 60psi. after it warms up about 40psi.
disconnect + battery terminal take out 2 bolt out of starter from the engine block take off the wires remebering where they go do in reverse order to reconnect
suburbination is how many illegale alliens you can pack into a 1990 GMC Suburban. Likewise, urbanization is 32 of them un-assing in Wadena Mn.
Remove the two screws in the top of the bezel plate in front of the speedometer housing. There are two snap in grommets at the bottom of the same bezel. These pull out kind of hard but by pulling straight out one side and then the other side worked well for me. You'll need to unplug the headlight & cruise control switches on the left side and may have to unplug the rear wiper, rear heater, and flasher switches on the right side but I didn't have too as my wires were long enough to place the bezel over to the side hanging on the right side wires mentioned. You'll have to drop the steering column to its lowest point and you'll have to pull the transmission selector down into 1st geat to get everything below the bezel to remove. There are four screws that hold the soeedometer housing in place and need to be removed after getting the bezel out of the way. Slowly pull the speedometer housing outward and rotate the housing from the left side so you can access the back side of the housing. The bulbs are in 1/4 turn black sockets at various locations on the backside circuit board. Twist CCW to remove and CW to put back in after the bulb has been changed. Replace one at a time unless you know exactly which ones have been removed as there are several style speedometer layouts on the Villager's. I used instrument lamp #168 but I believe a #161 and a #194 bulb will work also. Reverse the steps to re-install everything. Make sure to plug back in a the switches you unplugged and check to make sure the right side switches are tight even if you didn't unplug them. Should be about a 1/2 hour job start to finish if you have the bulbs.
Most drain plugs are on the bottom of the radiator they are called (pee-cocks). Some look like a wing-nut and sometime they look like bolts. It would be best if you look near the bottom on the radiator on either sides of the radiator for the drain plugs. I
you will need a fuel pessure gage. There is an adapter that threads i nto the front of the fuel filter and the fuel line. The adapter has a Tee for the fuel pressure gage. Auto zone has this as a loner tool. It should be 26 to 32 psi and shouldn't drop more than 5 psi after you shut it off.
PS My attorney has advised me to include the following statment. BE CAREFUL IT'S GASOLINE!!!!!
Adjust the striker plates.
I have a 1996 Sub. The doors do not close as easily as they once did. Adjusting the striker plates is one way to fix it but in my case it would not help. One the suburban door hinges are two pins. There are small metal sleeves with slightly different diameters for the top and the bottom. It is those sleeves and hinge pins that have caused my door to become loose. The fix is to repalce the pins and sleeves. About 12.00 per hinge. You have to be careful becasue there is a spring on the hinge and the door is very heavy for a one person job. I
There are just some simple things that your average person just can not do. this is one of them. saying that just makes you want to prove me wrong. so my question is, if your not smart enough to figure out your problem why are you suddenly able to correct it.-give up now before you make things worse. (well maybe just hit your latch pin with a hammer and get on with your life). what do i care what i say nobody listens to me anyway
Open the driver side door, pull open the fuse door. Check the daytime running lights fuse. If blown replace with equialant fuse rate. If blows again, check all wiring running to lamps. My 96's daytime lights don't work due to wiring frying under the dash (past owner hooked his trailer brakes bais control into the DTRL wiring). Check the other answers too.AnswerI have a '96 Sierra Z71 5.7L w/ 201k miles and I have the same problem w/ my running lights. I have asked my dad and our mechanic about the problem and if I remember correctly they said that there is some kind of computer module in the engine compartment that controls them, and that they can quit working. But, every once in a while, maybe every 3 or 4 months, my running lights will work for about a day then quit working again. I will talk to my mechanic a.s.a.p. and see if I cant help to clearify which computer module it is that could be the problem. AnswerCheck your emergency brake pedal. make sure it is all the way up if it is down just one click the day time running lamps will not come on. AnswerMy 2001 Sierra's Daytime running lights only come on when the transmission is in Drive or Reverse. Hard to check unless you can see their reflection in a chrome bumper, etc.
1996-99 Chevy trucks.There is a diode, located under the dash between the steering wheel and the radio, fastenen to the round dash bar. The bolt that holds it on, threads into the top of the bar, it is near impossible to get at with a wrench. It is a finned block of (usaully black) aluminum about 2 inches squared 3 inches long. I found a easy way to get it out. Looking up you will see two tabs bent holding the diode in a bracket, bend them out of the way( you may have to bend the bracket a little aswell) and with patience the diode will slide out of the bracket, then disconect the electrical plug-in. I have found that this is the main reason for day-time driving light failure
It is Low on Freon. I have a Tahoe that does the excat thing when my freon gets low..the back will be freezing cold and the front not.
If it is the factory radio turn on the ingition and make sure the radio is turned off, push the set button. for the hour push the seek button, for the minute push the scan button, to end push the set button again.
passengers side kick panel GM cars use a oil pressure cut off relay to disable the fuel pump. If the vehicle is involved in a crash, this cuts power to the fuel pump when it senses no oil pressure. There is a by pass circuit that will run the fuel pump for a few seconds to allow the car to start. If it doesn't start within this time frame, the pump won't re engage until the engine builds up enough pressure close the relay.
The best way is to pressure was the entire underside of the vechical to get all the slat & sand off before you work on it. No need to have all the rust and salt falling into your eyes as you work.
Spray averything down with Fluid Film to loosen any rust or corrosion, let it sit for a few days.
then jack up the truck, block the axcels for it does not fall and crush you while you work.
Buy the brand new set of brake pads from me that I dont need because I sold my GMC/Chevys and just install them.
Raybestos BruteStop Series BD369M Front Disc Brake Pad Set Just $40
Capt@WickedGoodOutdoors.comAnswerBought a Haynes repair manual from Auto Zone for $17.00 and with a few questions to a friend, I succesfully changed the pads. Really simple once you understand how.
What is ROBLOX's password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
Does Jerry Seinfeld have Parkinson's disease?
Asked By Wiki User
If you are 13 years old when were you born?
Asked By Wiki User
What is a hink pink 50 percent giggle?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you replace throttle position sensor 99 gmc suburban 454?
Asked By Wiki User
When were Spanners created?
Asked By Wiki User
What causes high oil pressure on the engine of a 1996 GMC Suburban?
Asked By Wiki User
Where is cylinder number 5 in a gm 5.7 vortec engine?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.