For most GM truck brake light switches, look under the dash, directly above the brake pedal. Just pull the connectors and back off the screw or nut, whichever is used. Stupid GM has steering wheel brackets in the way-that is why they went bankrupt- stupid engineers& management
deopends if you can do it yourself, you can buy one online for 50$ and put it in yourself, but be forewarned when you drop your gas tank you may have to replace the straps holding it up because they will probably be rusted so badly they break, although you can take this as an opportunity to drain out your gas tank, which is recommended by the manufacturer to do every year. but if you have it done professionally it can get quite costly, my friend had to pay 800$ for the pump to be replaced on his 1998 silverado
GO TO YOUR LOCAL LIBRARY THEY HAVE ALL THIS AT A COST OF 25 CENTS PER PAGE, SAVES ALOT ON BUYING OVERPRICED BOOKS.
It depends entirely on the condition of your engine. If the bearings are in good condition, use a lighter weight oil (lower numbers). If the bearings are getting a little worn, use a thicker weight oil (HIGHER numbers). Watch the oil pressure gauge. If, after the engine warms, the oil pressure starts to drop to near zero during idle, use a thicker oil. If the oil pressure stays up when the engine is warm and idling, you might be able to use a lighter grade oil. As related to the brand, use whatever has been running in the engine in the past, so long as it's a respected brand with the SAE certifications.
I suppose you could wire your fuel pump directly to the keyed side of the fuse box.
Hold in the minute and hour buttons for several seconds. The time will start to change. Do this until your desired time is reached.
Adjust the striker plates.
I have a 1996 Sub. The doors do not close as easily as they once did. Adjusting the striker plates is one way to fix it but in my case it would not help. One the suburban door hinges are two pins. There are small metal sleeves with slightly different diameters for the top and the bottom. It is those sleeves and hinge pins that have caused my door to become loose. The fix is to repalce the pins and sleeves. About 12.00 per hinge. You have to be careful becasue there is a spring on the hinge and the door is very heavy for a one person job. I
Scott
There are just some simple things that your average person just can not do. this is one of them. saying that just makes you want to prove me wrong. so my question is, if your not smart enough to figure out your problem why are you suddenly able to correct it.-give up now before you make things worse. (well maybe just hit your latch pin with a hammer and get on with your life). what do i care what i say nobody listens to me anyway
Brake Pads Replacement - Rear
Removal Procedure
Caution: Refer to Brake Dust Caution in Service Precautions.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in Service Precautions.
Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.
Installation Procedure
Important: Proper orientation of the brake pads is critical for proper pad wear.
You have one of these two
Suburban - 1/2 ton 1987-1992 TH700-R4/4L60
Suburban - 3/4 ton 1987-1990 TH400/3L80
Wish to confirm see link below.
Hope This Helps.
Check your steering coloumn. If it is factory and does NOT have the overdrive(the D outlined) then you probably have the TH400. You can also tell by the shape of the transmission pan and sometimes the pan has either a code or the actual "TH400" or "TH700-R4" stamped on it. Get underneath with a cameraphone and take a pic and go to the auto parts store or dealership.
A bearing that has gone bad. A universal joint that has worn out allows play in the differential gear.
Chevrolet does not use inertia/reset switches.
When making fixes or changes to a car, having a diagram can help that things are being done correctly. A diagram of a 1976 GMC Sierra Classic can be found in the maintenance manual of the car.
The cooling system bleed valve, on your General Motors 5.7 liter engine, is located on the bottom of the radiator. The bleed valve should be in the middle of the radiator bottom.
if you replacing them you a cutting torch and bubn then out or get the spring hot enough to let the bushing be hammered out
try replacing the radiator cap, because it has a pressure release valve that can stick or take out your thermostat altogether, sometimes it runs better without it in the summer only. . HOW IS THE CONDITON OF THE RADIATOR? THERE COULD BE SOME CROSS TUBES THAT ARE CLOGED UP TOWARD THE BOTTOM THAT CAN NOT BEE SEEN. I TEST THIS BY PLACING MY HAND ON THE FACE OF THE RADIATOR AND TRY TO FIND COOL SPOTS.
If you don't know how to change a water pump on a 350 chevy, refer to those instructions for the basics.
In addition, what makes this job a real pain is you have to remove the timing cover, which involves removing some of the accessory bracketry depending on your accessories. There are bolts attaching the water pump that are attached from the back of the cover. By my memory, I believe that there are 4. The number is irrelevent, however.
I've done this job once already and it looks like I have to do the job again on a different motor.
It will be handy during reassembly to have a helper to help position the timiing cover when reattaching as it is rather awkward to get into position. When I do it again, I'm going to have somebody hold the plate from the top with the permatex applied so I can line it up from the bottom and start the first couple of bolts.
FYI, the reason I stumbled onto this is I'm looking to see if I can get a military version of the water pump that may have a higher flow. I don't want to do this job twice and now I'm using my suburban for towing my camper 700 miles twice a year with some hill climbs so I could use the extra flow but don't want to convert to the serpentine system. I just added that so that maybe you could do a little checking for yourself. You don't want to change the pump twice, but if it was working good for you before, then a new one should work fine as well.
Another thing to consider given the pain this job is that a new one is only about another 30 bucks more the last time I checked.
suburban is the area tht surounds/ is near a city. urban means an actual city. and then like rural is country side
Replace the oil pump and you may even need to replace all the engine bearings too. You loose alot of oil pressure through the engine bearings if they are worn out. 10W30 Oil may raise the pressure alittle.
CR9640 >>SLICK 50> IT worked in less than a week, returned oil pressure for me on my 91 SUB w/350 TBI with 175k miles on it. OIL PRESSURE went from almost 5 lbs up to over 55 lbs (consistent) and still maintains plus 50lbs pressure at moving speeds. Idle drops to just above 30lbs after warm up. Engine is now at 195K miles and no adverse effects. No leakage, no smoke, no obvious problems. Only cost was less than $15.00 at WalMart. It is worth the investment to try it before expensive labor.
CR9640 >> UPDATE > 204 k miles, had to add 1 bottle Slick50, Oil pressure had dropped, now back up over 50 lbs 95% of time. Worth the cost versus repairs that I can not afford.