Step 1 - Remove the plastic trim around handbrake by pulling it up from the rear it will unclip.
Step 2 - There is a 10mm nut you can turn this to adjust the handbrake. A good idea is to park on a flat and then see if the car can be easily pushed with the handbrake released.
Step 3 Once the handbrake is adjusted to the correct amount replace the trim and firmly push down on it so it clips back into place.
If you find this method does not improve your hand brakes effectiveness you will need to get you rear calipers checked as they may be fualty.
1st. If you intend to do any work on this car at all you need tools and a good repair manual. Spend the $20.00 bucks for a manual at autozone and read read read.
There are several things to consider
Rotors need replaced?...(can be turned?)Pads?Fluid and what type?Proportioning valve problems?Spongy brakes? need new rubber lines?Vac boost working correctly?Bad calipers need rebuild?leaking fluid?bad leaking brake master cylinder?
If this work was completed by a pro could cost well over $500.00The Pro has the book that's the only dif.Get the book and read, buy the tools you need and save yourself 200.00-300.00 bucks?
It is of my opinion never buy autozone brakes get NAPA's best Pay the extra money and stop when you need it.
with the engine turned off hold down the trip meter button on the right hand side of your instrument panel (0.0) swith on the ignition but not the engine then when service now appears press the minute button on the left side of the instrument panel and it will reset.
It would be reasonable and logical that the starter motor or starter solenoid could be the source. Although it doesn't rule out an ignition switch.
Two things in my experience.
If rapid clicks, starter gear probably not fully engaging with flywheel due to insufficient current.
Low battery (may be charging issue if battery is good, Any independent shop will check battery/charging) OR the solenoid is shot (copper connection pads get worn out).
If it is intermittent solenoid, single click but no turn over then try again and works, solenoid is bad as above. Usually this deteriorates over time especially in cold climates like New England.
If you believe solenoid, pull starter out and take to auto electrical shop for a rebuild. If cold climate, the starters take a beating and they will rebuild starter & solenoid.
Folowing not likely but...late models use a relay. The ignition switch controls the relay, the relay feeds the solenoid, solenoid feeds starter. I did have a 1997 Tahoe that was intermittent (turn key twice it starts). I did not believe solenoid was bad since I'm warm climate. This can be (carefully, know what your doing & verify relay part numbers) checked by substituting a relay from another "non-vital" circuit (say air conditioning). The relays MUST be the same so verify part number.
My Thaoe's electrical diagram did NOT show the relay and I almost rebuilt starter. I could not believe solenoid was issue. It was bad relay, $23 at NAPA.
I would be suspicious of a weak battery first because it is only during cold weather. This is when the battery is most susceptible to failure. Drop it off at your local independent shop that you use outside the night before when it is cold, and with a little luck it will happen so it can be diagnosed.
This is caused by not enough power reaching the starter solenoid to make it engage the starter motor. The culprit could be: a) a weak battery (only if it turns the starter slower than normal when it does turn it)b) worn ignition switch contacts c) loose wire connection (somewhere from switch to solenoid) d) a wire that has developed high resistance or become frayed or worn out. e) worn starter solenoid f) on newer models an ignition relay
I had this problem on two older model cars I owned, on both my cars the cause was the ignition to starter solenoid wire had developed high resistance. This is the reason newer models include a relay. I adapated a relay on both my cars long before this addition was included on newer models. This I�ve found is the main cause for clicking starter solenoids, and is very common on earlier models but many times missdiagnosed as starter, solenoid or ignition switch related.
It could also be a bad battery connection. Check the battery cables for tightness and sometimes corrosion.
I am having problems with my break lights and want to know what the layout of the fuse box is for a 1986 ford F150.
As long as the battery is charged
This procedure works on the VW 'switchblade' style key fobs. These key fobs are rectangular with a button on one side. When the button is pressed, the metal key flips out into the straight position, similar to a switchblade.
To replace the battery:
1. Press the button to flip out the key.
2. Turn the key fob so the metal key stick out to the right and the channel that the key fits into is facing you. (The VW logo on the fob will be facing up)
3. Look closely inside the channel. It is split vertically. On the left hand side of the vertical split, it is also split horizontally.
4. Insert a flat head screwdriver into the vertical split and twist. They key fob will split along the vertical line separating the battery compartment (on the left) from the key (right).
5. The battery compartment (left) can now be pried open along its horizontal split.
6. The replacement battery is a 3 volt CR2032 lithium 'button cell' and is commonly available.
7. Replace the battery with the + side facing down.
here are some photos http://www.riskin.org/vwkey
Buy the Chiltons or Haynes manual. It will walk you through the process.
dryer sheets in the heater vents may help
Just read in a forum that they're 6.5" .
Not sure as i thought they wer actually around 5", but i guess 6.5" would fit. Look around the polo forums.
Hi There, it depends how you use your clutch,
Most people damage their clutch because of incorrect use of clutch.
Always make sure when you apply brakes you press the bake pedal only, therefore be fore the rev counter reaches 10 then you can press your clutch pedal. That will assist your engine to slow smoothly, just imagine pressing half clutch and hald break, the friction between your clutch plate and engine increases because the engine speed is still high, Just imagine doing that while you are doing 120Km/h,
Take the wheel off, and remove the caliper bolt on the bottom, from the inside. Lift up the caliper, and the pads should come out. Do your self a favor, and buy Toyota pads, and a shim kit. The kit still comes with anti-seize lube for the top spindle the caliper rides on. You may not need everything in the kit, but you will be glad to have extra parts, in the event you lose something in the process. And, don't forget to put in the horse shoe shaped wire spring clips that straddle the air holes in the rotors. This will keep the pads away from the rotors when you are just driving. If you buy after market pads, they will hang up, stick, and prematurely wear out the rotors, too. They are just not metalurgically compatible when you factor in the break dust, heat, and friction.
Is this the front assembly or the rear? I can't say for sure on the rear, but on the front, you will need a very large socket for the nut at the outside of the hub assembly. I don't recall for sure, but I think it's like 30mm. Check before you buy a socket for it, as they are expensive. Also, you may want to have a pickle fork to break the ball joints loose up front. Aside from the large nut at the outside of the hub assembly, the largest wrench you will need is 19mm. If you can find a Chiltons manual for a Saturn SL, it will walk you through the entire process of removal and re-assembly.
Found this link to change a Saturn S-Series front hub. It worked perfectly as all the pictures were extremely helpful. I actually pressed new bearings into to the existing hubs which is not recommended by Saturn but worked out OK for me.
Dude there is no way in hell you want a 2.0 liter engine for your 1.8. The 1.8 you can modify add a turbo do something with but the 2.0 you cant do nothing with unless you spend some serious bucks. Look if you wanna change your engine change to a 1.8 turbo or the 1.8 16 valves or a vr6 those engines are awesome but changing to a 2.0 for the price its gonna cost you dont think its a good idea. If your bent on douing it no one can stop you but i warned you. To answer your question you would need new motor mounts. New wirring loom. The downpipe would not fit anymore you would have to modify your exhaust. You might need the front axles as the engine fits differently. If you needc to change the axles then you need to change the brakes and all that. Really not worth it we are talking close to 5000 dollars. For 10 hp max??????? If you do it do it right this is not the way to go.
Yes your spot on if your looking for about 10 bhp just put on decent air filter, fast flow exhaust manifold and performance exhaust system alot cheaper and far less work.
To install, I like to use the old race to start the new one, make sure it goes in square and once started you can finish with the punch and hammer. It will sound different once the race seats. Be careful not to strike the roller surface!
Always replace races and cones in matched pairs. Don't mix them up, or put new cones in with old races or vice versa.
All that being said, a bearing tool with different diameter aluminum drivers to help remove and install the new races is really cheap and makes the job much easier.
Also, before installing the races, put them in the freezer for an hour and leave the rotors out in the sun. That will give you an extra thou or two which makes installation that much easier.
Yes, a set of bearing tools with different diameter aluminum drivers is a great help, and I use mine with great success. In addition to the bearing tools, another trick I learned is to use a hard rubber Hockey Puck (available at most sporting goods stores) and use it to drive home bearing races, without fear of damage to either the race or the wheel. It works very well.
Of course, the trick is to start the race or bearing as straight as possible relative to the opening and channel it will be entering. The clearances are usually so tight, that any twist or tilt in any part of the bearing or race will cause some binding, and prevent proper seating of the bearing parts.
On the 1987 Honda Accord DX I recently acquired I believe all 3 of those things are controlled by the ICU (Integrated Control Unit), under the dash above the hump. It has one connector plugged into it. Maybe yours has a similar unit that is unplugged.
On my Honda accord there is a seat belt control box that is under then passenger seat. Mine was unplugged and cut all power to seat belt alarms and power seat belts
The vehicles recommended tire pressure is in the drivers front or rear drivers door jamb and in your owners manual. The pressure on the side of the tire only tells you the maximum amount of pressure that the tire can safely handle. That figure is not the recommended tire pressure.
I found a fuse box diagram for 91-94 Ford rangers on Autozone.com, small print and hard to read though.
Its a lot easer than you think each side on the front has four bolts two for the caliper and two for the bracket they both have to come off if you wont to replace the rotors to (its a good idea pads will last longer) the ones on the bracket have rubber things that like to spin grab the metal part with a pair of pliers or channel locks and use a rachet on the other side, then pull the caliper off and pull out the pads. The pads are different so pay attention. When putting this assembly back together you will want to get those floating pins out of there and clean them up real good, as in shiny even if you have to use some steel wool. Then use some good high heat grease, this way your calipers will float nicely without your pads wearing unevenly!
the pistons on the rear brake calipers SCREW in to the caliper. there are notches on the inner edge of the piston face. engage the notches with a large needle nose plier or a large flat washer and turn clockwise (as you face the piston) to turn the piston in.
There is a special tool that is available at your local autoparts store that is absolutely necessary and will save you a ton of time and aggravation. Using a needle nose plier or washer does not allow you to apply enough pressure unless your are the incredible hulk. There is a great picture on europeancarweb.com/tech/0201es_big_brake_installation/index.html
Install a manual gauge to actually read oil pressure
Remove wheels FRONT Re-install 2 lugs nuts to hold rotor in place Loosen 2 caliper mounting bolts Remove 1 caliper mounting bolt to allow caliper to swing allowing access to pads Remove outer pad Use "C" clamp to retract piston into caliper uaing inner pad for leverage install new pads and swing caliper back into place re-mount caliper Install wheels REMEMBER TO PUMP BRAKES TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE
Walmart also sells the tool for removal for 'bout $3. I bought a single CD player to replace the changer from Crutchfield and they supplied the tool as part of the package. My CD changer failed due to one of the black plastic trays that holds the CD.
You just need a DIN tool for factory stereo removal. I know Best Buy sells them, also Crutchfield sells them. They should only be several dollars. Once you have them, you'll just put them into the those little squarish holes on the right and left side of the stereo. Since the tools are U-shaped, one point goes into each hole. Then, you should feel a little spring-resistance and when the points are as far as you can push without too much effort, you pull them outwards (towards the left and right) and then pull the stereo out. On the back of the stereo you'll find the wiring harness and antenna wire. Pull those, and you're all set.
Also, don't forget to turn off your car and since power still goes into the stereo while the car is off, so take proper precautions to prevent shocking yourself or damaging the unit.
instead of buying a tool, all I had to do was take my car to a local Ford dealer and they pulled it out right there for me
Replacing SAAB 9.3 rear brake pads (backing off the caliper piston without requiring use of special tools or re-bleeding the brake system):
Note: SAAB 9.3's DO NOT have an hydraulic actuating piston adjusting screw on the back side of the rear brake caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly as the earlier SAAB 900's do.
Assuming that the portion of the procedure involving safely raising and placing the vehicle on jackstands, removing the tire/wheel and removing the rear brake caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly from the rear brake caliper/pad carrier bracket went OK, the interesting part then becomes backing off the caliper assembly's hydraulic actuating piston (sometimes referred to as winding the piston in) to provide the additional clearance necessary to permit the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly to then be able to accommodate the new (and therefore thicker) brake pads. It requires that the hydraulic actuating piston be rotated to the right (clockwise) while at the same time being pressed inward. SAAB service garages use a special tool to accomplish this but it can also be accomplished in your home garage with everyday tools as follows:
- use the tips of a pair of heavy needle nosed pliers (or end prong snap ring pliers or a 'U' bent heavy nail's shank clamped in long nose Vice-Grip plier jaws) to engage the two holes on the face of the hydraulic actuating piston to twist the hydraulic piston to the right a few turns until it turns somewhat more freely within its rubber dust seal (lubricating around the edges of the dust seal where it meets the face of the hydraulic piston with brake fluid helps).
- place a piece of 3/16" clear tubing over the the nipple of the brake bleeder valve after removing its dust cover and OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE keeping the clear tubing pointing upward (important to keep air from possibly entering the hydraulic assembly; a small amount of brake fluid will come out but no air should be allowed to enter)
- apply an 8 inch 'C' clamp which has a ball jointed (hopefully lubricated) pad at the end of the clamp's jack screw such that the clamp's ball jointed pad rests centered on the face of the hydraulic actuating piston and the clamp's fixed pad rests on the back side of the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly. Tighten the 'C' clamp enough so that the clamp will stay in place on its own and then give it another 1/4 turn on the jack screw (do not over tighten it as it would cause damage) .
- now using a pair of channel lock pliers, clamp them firmly around the outer perimeter of the 'C' clamp's ball jointed clamp pad which is resting in contact with the face of the hydraulic actuating piston and turn it 1/4 turn to the right, such that THE PAD AND PISTON ROTATE TOGETHER. If the pad skids on ther face of the piston instead of turning together with it, include a small piece of sandpaper or a knurled (bicycle axle type) washer between the 'C' clamp's pad and the face of the hydraulic actuating piston to improve the grip. The piston MUST turn while being forced inward.
- notice that the 'C' clamp becomes a bit looser as the hydraulic actuating piston retracts slightly with the 1/4 turn so re-tighten the 'C' clamp with a 1/4 turn of its jack screw after each 1/4 turn of the hydraulic actuating piston, repeating this operation until the hydraulic actuating piston has been backed off sufficiently to provide the caliper / hydraulic actuating piston assembly adequate clearance to accommodate the total thickness of the new thicker brake pads and the brake rotor.
- reassemble the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly over the brake rotor with the new rear brake pads in place in the caliper / brake pad carrier bracket and refasten it onto the caliper carrier bracket (with its two Allen head bolts - applying a thin layer of grease to the shanks of the bolts and blue loc-tite reversible thread locker to the threads - replace the dust covers over these two bolts when fully tightened / torqued).
- CLOSE THE BLEEDER VALVE (obviously a most important item) and dry it and its surrounding area off completely.
- Start the engine to power up the hydraulic brake booster and pump the brakes firmly several times which will cause the caliper assembly's hydraulic actuating piston to self adjust the caliper's hydraulic actuating piston into proper relationship with the brake rotor.
- Re-check the bleeder valve to be absolutely sure it had been properly closed and that no brake fluid had issued when pumping the brakes in the step above and replace its dust cover.
- Open the cap on the on the master cylinder's brake fluid reservoir (under hood on the driver side firewall) and replenish any lost brake fluid (using only type DOT 4brake fluid - do not allow any dirt to enter the master cylinder's reservoir)
- Test the hand brake and test drive the vehicle with several hard stops before considering the newly replaced rear brake pad job complete and the vehicle ready to be safely returned to service.
- This is a safety related procedure so please do the work with great care.
yes i have done two. one a 1997 & the other a 1998 make sure you get the alternator off the donor as the one on your car wont fit the bracket that holds the power steering pump
Why is TikTok getting banned in the US?
Asked By Amie Smitham
What is pokediger1s password on roblox?
Asked By Wiki User
How many countries end with a vowel?
Asked By Wiki User
Why Ghirth is called jat in Himachal?
Asked By Wiki User
Where is the radiator on a 1995 VW Polo?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you reset service light on 1999 polo?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you change time on VW polo S reg?
Asked By Wiki User
How do you change vw polo 2007 air filter?
Asked By Wiki User
Copyright © 2020 Multiply Media, LLC. All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply.