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Step 1 - Remove the plastic trim around handbrake by pulling it up from the rear it will unclip.

Step 2 - There is a 10mm nut you can turn this to adjust the handbrake. A good idea is to park on a flat and then see if the car can be easily pushed with the handbrake released.

Step 3 Once the handbrake is adjusted to the correct amount replace the trim and firmly push down on it so it clips back into place.

If you find this method does not improve your hand brakes effectiveness you will need to get you rear calipers checked as they may be fualty.

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1st. If you intend to do any work on this car at all you need tools and a good repair manual. Spend the $20.00 bucks for a manual at autozone and read read read.

There are several things to consider

Rotors need replaced?...(can be turned?)Pads?Fluid and what type?Proportioning valve problems?Spongy brakes? need new rubber lines?Vac boost working correctly?Bad calipers need rebuild?leaking fluid?bad leaking brake master cylinder?

If this work was completed by a pro could cost well over $500.00The Pro has the book that's the only dif.Get the book and read, buy the tools you need and save yourself 200.00-300.00 bucks?

It is of my opinion never buy autozone brakes get NAPA's best Pay the extra money and stop when you need it.

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with the engine turned off hold down the trip meter button on the right hand side of your instrument panel (0.0) swith on the ignition but not the engine then when service now appears press the minute button on the left side of the instrument panel and it will reset.

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It would be reasonable and logical that the starter motor or starter solenoid could be the source. Although it doesn't rule out an ignition switch.

Two things in my experience.

If rapid clicks, starter gear probably not fully engaging with flywheel due to insufficient current.

Low battery (may be charging issue if battery is good, Any independent shop will check battery/charging) OR the solenoid is shot (copper connection pads get worn out).

If it is intermittent solenoid, single click but no turn over then try again and works, solenoid is bad as above. Usually this deteriorates over time especially in cold climates like New England.

If you believe solenoid, pull starter out and take to auto electrical shop for a rebuild. If cold climate, the starters take a beating and they will rebuild starter & solenoid.

Folowing not likely but...late models use a relay. The ignition switch controls the relay, the relay feeds the solenoid, solenoid feeds starter. I did have a 1997 Tahoe that was intermittent (turn key twice it starts). I did not believe solenoid was bad since I'm warm climate. This can be (carefully, know what your doing & verify relay part numbers) checked by substituting a relay from another "non-vital" circuit (say air conditioning). The relays MUST be the same so verify part number.

My Thaoe's electrical diagram did NOT show the relay and I almost rebuilt starter. I could not believe solenoid was issue. It was bad relay, $23 at NAPA.

I would be suspicious of a weak battery first because it is only during cold weather. This is when the battery is most susceptible to failure. Drop it off at your local independent shop that you use outside the night before when it is cold, and with a little luck it will happen so it can be diagnosed.

This is caused by not enough power reaching the starter solenoid to make it engage the starter motor. The culprit could be: a) a weak battery (only if it turns the starter slower than normal when it does turn it)b) worn ignition switch contacts c) loose wire connection (somewhere from switch to solenoid) d) a wire that has developed high resistance or become frayed or worn out. e) worn starter solenoid f) on newer models an ignition relay

I had this problem on two older model cars I owned, on both my cars the cause was the ignition to starter solenoid wire had developed high resistance. This is the reason newer models include a relay. I adapated a relay on both my cars long before this addition was included on newer models. This I�ve found is the main cause for clicking starter solenoids, and is very common on earlier models but many times missdiagnosed as starter, solenoid or ignition switch related.

It could also be a bad battery connection. Check the battery cables for tightness and sometimes corrosion.

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I am having problems with my break lights and want to know what the layout of the fuse box is for a 1986 ford F150.

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As long as the battery is charged

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This procedure works on the VW 'switchblade' style key fobs. These key fobs are rectangular with a button on one side. When the button is pressed, the metal key flips out into the straight position, similar to a switchblade.

To replace the battery:

1. Press the button to flip out the key.

2. Turn the key fob so the metal key stick out to the right and the channel that the key fits into is facing you. (The VW logo on the fob will be facing up)

3. Look closely inside the channel. It is split vertically. On the left hand side of the vertical split, it is also split horizontally.

4. Insert a flat head screwdriver into the vertical split and twist. They key fob will split along the vertical line separating the battery compartment (on the left) from the key (right).

5. The battery compartment (left) can now be pried open along its horizontal split.

6. The replacement battery is a 3 volt CR2032 lithium 'button cell' and is commonly available.

7. Replace the battery with the + side facing down.

here are some photos http://www.riskin.org/vwkey

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Buy the Chiltons or Haynes manual. It will walk you through the process.

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dryer sheets in the heater vents may help

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Just read in a forum that they're 6.5" .

Not sure as i thought they wer actually around 5", but i guess 6.5" would fit. Look around the polo forums.

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Hi There, it depends how you use your clutch,

Most people damage their clutch because of incorrect use of clutch.

Always make sure when you apply brakes you press the bake pedal only, therefore be fore the rev counter reaches 10 then you can press your clutch pedal. That will assist your engine to slow smoothly, just imagine pressing half clutch and hald break, the friction between your clutch plate and engine increases because the engine speed is still high, Just imagine doing that while you are doing 120Km/h,

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Take the wheel off, and remove the caliper bolt on the bottom, from the inside. Lift up the caliper, and the pads should come out. Do your self a favor, and buy Toyota pads, and a shim kit. The kit still comes with anti-seize lube for the top spindle the caliper rides on. You may not need everything in the kit, but you will be glad to have extra parts, in the event you lose something in the process. And, don't forget to put in the horse shoe shaped wire spring clips that straddle the air holes in the rotors. This will keep the pads away from the rotors when you are just driving. If you buy after market pads, they will hang up, stick, and prematurely wear out the rotors, too. They are just not metalurgically compatible when you factor in the break dust, heat, and friction.

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Is this the front assembly or the rear? I can't say for sure on the rear, but on the front, you will need a very large socket for the nut at the outside of the hub assembly. I don't recall for sure, but I think it's like 30mm. Check before you buy a socket for it, as they are expensive. Also, you may want to have a pickle fork to break the ball joints loose up front. Aside from the large nut at the outside of the hub assembly, the largest wrench you will need is 19mm. If you can find a Chiltons manual for a Saturn SL, it will walk you through the entire process of removal and re-assembly.

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Found this link to change a Saturn S-Series front hub. It worked perfectly as all the pictures were extremely helpful. I actually pressed new bearings into to the existing hubs which is not recommended by Saturn but worked out OK for me.

http://www.xwarlordx.com/twin_cam/tech.html

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On the 1987 Honda Accord DX I recently acquired I believe all 3 of those things are controlled by the ICU (Integrated Control Unit), under the dash above the hump. It has one connector plugged into it. Maybe yours has a similar unit that is unplugged.

On my Honda accord there is a seat belt control box that is under then passenger seat. Mine was unplugged and cut all power to seat belt alarms and power seat belts

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The vehicles recommended tire pressure is in the drivers front or rear drivers door jamb and in your owners manual. The pressure on the side of the tire only tells you the maximum amount of pressure that the tire can safely handle. That figure is not the recommended tire pressure.

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I found a fuse box diagram for 91-94 Ford rangers on Autozone.com, small print and hard to read though.

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Its a lot easer than you think each side on the front has four bolts two for the caliper and two for the bracket they both have to come off if you wont to replace the rotors to (its a good idea pads will last longer) the ones on the bracket have rubber things that like to spin grab the metal part with a pair of pliers or channel locks and use a rachet on the other side, then pull the caliper off and pull out the pads. The pads are different so pay attention. When putting this assembly back together you will want to get those floating pins out of there and clean them up real good, as in shiny even if you have to use some steel wool. Then use some good high heat grease, this way your calipers will float nicely without your pads wearing unevenly!

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Install a manual gauge to actually read oil pressure

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Remove wheels FRONT Re-install 2 lugs nuts to hold rotor in place Loosen 2 caliper mounting bolts Remove 1 caliper mounting bolt to allow caliper to swing allowing access to pads Remove outer pad Use "C" clamp to retract piston into caliper uaing inner pad for leverage install new pads and swing caliper back into place re-mount caliper Install wheels REMEMBER TO PUMP BRAKES TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

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Walmart also sells the tool for removal for 'bout $3. I bought a single CD player to replace the changer from Crutchfield and they supplied the tool as part of the package. My CD changer failed due to one of the black plastic trays that holds the CD.

You just need a DIN tool for factory stereo removal. I know Best Buy sells them, also Crutchfield sells them. They should only be several dollars. Once you have them, you'll just put them into the those little squarish holes on the right and left side of the stereo. Since the tools are U-shaped, one point goes into each hole. Then, you should feel a little spring-resistance and when the points are as far as you can push without too much effort, you pull them outwards (towards the left and right) and then pull the stereo out. On the back of the stereo you'll find the wiring harness and antenna wire. Pull those, and you're all set.

Also, don't forget to turn off your car and since power still goes into the stereo while the car is off, so take proper precautions to prevent shocking yourself or damaging the unit.

instead of buying a tool, all I had to do was take my car to a local Ford dealer and they pulled it out right there for me

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yes i have done two. one a 1997 & the other a 1998 make sure you get the alternator off the donor as the one on your car wont fit the bracket that holds the power steering pump