Trouble code P0171 means: System Too Lean (Bank 1)
i have just gone through this same situation, in my case it follows with i think 1157 or 1137 regardless they are o2 sensor codes. funny enough this , in my case, led to the MAP sensor found center rear of intake manifold. worked for me 100 CAD new pop it out and replace it should be good as new!
there is a screw located between the bumper and the vehicle you must use a long Phillips to get to it, most likely the plug is loose that is the problem I had.How to remove a tail light
There are actually 3 screws you need to loosen on a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo. At least there are on the LSE model. One of them is located between the bumper the tail light, and as stated before you will need a long Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screw. The other two are located along the side of the taillight inside the little black things that look like air vents. Once you remove all of the screws, slide the taillight straight back. Try not to shake it out of place or a small black plastic rod will break. If the plastic rod does break it will not harm the vehicle or affect the operation of the taillight. Then remove the corresponding bulb by turning the bracket counter clockwise and pulling the bulb out. The correct bulb number for a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo LSE is 1157.
On the 1989-1997 models all is the same except you need to remove the screws from the backside of the unit to remove the lens and the bulbs are pushed in and turned counter clockwise to remove.
Not a valid code. If it's P0134 the it would be oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1, no activity detected.
I lift mine 3 inches
check this link
On 3.2L v6 it's located by right motor mount in block, easiest to find from underneath.
The ion sensor on a 2001 rodeo is in a sense a camshaft,crankshaft,knock sensors and ignition module all in one sensor. It does this by reading the signal each spark plug sends to it with info like, compression, knocks, and uses those signals to determine when to send the signal back to the coil pack to spark. Its a lot of work for one sensors and relies on the spark plugs to work correctly.
Place the truck into nutral, push the 2H shifter into the 4H position and then put the car into reverse and back up about 12-15 feet. After doing so the clutche in each of the front hubs will be locked in. If you have manual locking hubs you will nedd to get out of the vehicle and lock them in manualy, and then repeat the procedure above. To disengage the hubs repeat the same procedure only in reverse (Pull the lever back into 2H).
If you mean the 3.2 litre V6,engine, no- 6VDI then it's Isuzu's Own engine and NOT a GM earlier type.
Trouble code P0463 means:Fuel level sensor circuit high input
Mine has rear mount speakers in the back but off of the cargo area attached to the sides, just to the back sides of the back seat. It works and sounds perfectly.
Its nice when people leave out information. There are six bolts that hold on the hub outer housing, you have to take them out and take off the two pieces, there you will see the splined shaft from the CV axle. On my 91 there is an internal snap ring that has to come out for the hub clutch to come out. I recommend you go and get some snap ring pliers for this. After that is removed you'll see the spindle, take a paper towel and wipe off the flat part or the backing area that the clutch was resting against, you'll see three screws (Phillips head) that is in a ring, in a triagle pattern. Get a good screw driver to take it out and be very careful not to strip these. after that is out there will be a few parts that will come out, then will be the spindle nut. On mine it looks like a flat washer with two holes in it. I have found that www.summitracing.com is the only place that has the tool to remove this properly. None of my local stores had it. Oreilly's might have had it. You can remove it with a flat head screw driver and a hammer, but I recommend getting the tool to put it back in. Remove the caliper and use something to hang it to the spring, don't hang it by the brake hose, it can damage the hose and allow it to bust when you step on the brake. Then you can remove the rotor and hub, place your hand at the end of the spindle as the outter bearing can fall out when its pulled off the hub, the inner bearing should be held in by the wheel seal, the Rotor should be held on by six bolts from behind to the hub, the rotor should just come off after removing the bolts. As you pull everything off label them outside to inside and keep them in order to ease installation. When you put the rotor back on the hub the bolts need to be tightened to 50 ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench then use a 3/8 drive ratchet and get it as tight as you can get it. It will be close to 50 ft/lbs. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings or replace them if they are wearing out. It is recommended to do so every 5 years make sure to pack them properly. And get new wheel seals if you change the bearings. Put the rotor and hub back on the spindle, follow that with the inner bearing. Then you need to put the hub nut on and adjust the bearings. This is much easier with the socket I said to get, but if you can't get it then use the flat head, Tighten the nut so that you can't turn the rotor and hub, then slowly back it off until the rotor and hub turn with little resistance, Make sure that the rotor and hub don't wiggle any, worn bearings can cause this, or backing the nut off too much can as well. Now you can put the caliper on if you wish, then follow up with everything that was removed putting on in reverse order that you removed, tighen the screws so that they are flush, and don't strip them. Then put the hub clutch back in and reaching from behind pull the CV axle to you and install the snap ring. It will be easier to put the ring on the axle and push it into place with a flathead while your pulling the axle. Then put on and tighen down the hub cover and put the caliper on if haven't done so. You can test operation by lifting all four wheels off the ground, do this with the front tires on, put it 4 wheel high and drive, just ease off the brakes until the front tires start turning, then step on the gas, after you hit 30 mph step on the brakes and make sure they stop, make sure you step on the brakes before putting it in gear to adjust the front brakes. Then put it in reverse and do it again. Then put it back in 2 wheel and reverse again if you have the auto locking hubs to disenage them. If you don't have them and have the shift on the fly then you can skip this since the hubs won't disenage.
First, if it is something like a loose gas cap, just tighten it and it will reset itself in the next 100 miles or so. If it is something else, like a leaky gas cap it will never reset. But to reset the OnBoardDiagnostic (OBD)Computer... Go to eBay and search "obdII" and buy one, they run about $50.00 including shipping. There are two types, ISO for Chrysler and some Japanese, and the other one for all the others like Ford and GM. There are several that are both, that is the kind you want. Be sure to email the eBay seller and ask if it is used with your year and model. (1996 was a changeover year for OBDII technology, so this advice may not apply to everybody--but the dealer service guy can tell you over the phone--ask him if it is OBDII compliant.) When you get it, you just plug it in and let it cycle 4 or 5 times and it resets everything. You then have to drive your car for 50 to 100 miles for the onboard computer to test everything, and in the meantime your car will fail smog checks because it has no history in the computer and the smog test procedure demands a history even if there is no pollution. Cut and Paste http://search.ebay.com/OBDII for a list of them for sale on eBay. Most units come with a list of generic fault codes so you can tell what the problem is, this could be very helpful.
I dont know what you mean by c-board but try this cross the green/red wire with the brown/white one.. If you have no power to the green/red wire run 12 volts to the brown/white to go up and blue/red to go down.( this is the wire color at the switch, these wires change color 2 times before making it to the motor so at the motor its blue to go down and white to go up and this is the same for both front motors and in the rear it blue/white and blue/red.
for the four cylinder it is located in the front part of the engine. you have to remove the spark plug cover cap, then remove the serpentine belt. remove the timing belt cover, then remove the timing belt cover mounting screw located in between the two gears. for the 6 cylinder it is on the back of the drivers side head just behind the intake manifold screwed in from the outside 10mm bolt
I would replace the ignition switch. . John In MontanaMore InformationIt also might just be your shift linkage, the cable that connects your ignition to your shifter while in Park. This is what is wrong in mine right now. You might want to try to put the car in Low then all the way back up to park. See if that helps. Ashley
You have a bad starter motor with a short. You need to replace the motor
On the 1989-1997 models remove the 4 lens screws from the backside and replace bulbs from front of housing.
I replaced the engine idler pulley that I bought from Autozone for about $17 and eliminated the noise. I initially thought the bearings on my alternator were going out but when I replaced the pulley all the whining noise disappeared. Good Luck!
This job is fairly easy, saved my sister some change by not going to the dealer. 1. Take out the two screws just in front of the steering wheel . 2. Now, along the rim of the dash there are 5 or 6 more screws to remove. 3. The dash snaps in (along with those screws). 4. Take a screw driver and pry the snaps loose. (Be careful not to crack the dash.) Be gentle. 5. Behind the dash you'll find 4 thumb screws (plastic turns) w/bulbs. They cost approximately $5.00 when purchased new. Replace all of 'em. Now you can see how fast you're going. Good luck!
Auto zone will do it for free!
true, auto zone will do it for free, but. you can also do it yourslef with your vehicle. Look on the floor in fron of the drivers seat. Look to the right of the gas pedal. You will see a plastic cover, pop the little screws out and take the cover off. then you will see a little metal box, its the PCM, the computer that stores the codes, peel back the tape covering a small screw. take a screw driver and turn the screw clockwise until it stops, then imediatly turn it all the way back. then look at your check engine light. it will blink. it will blink fast a few times, then slow a few times. write down how many times it blinks fast, and write doen how many times it does slow. ex: if it blink 3 times fast, and 4 times slow, write: 34. then look on the internet or in a repair manual for trouuble codes and look up what the number means, if it is a 34, sometimes it will say 0304, or 304, but i
on my 93's V6 it's right after the exhaust pipes from the engine join into one pipe.
The 91-92 have a different engine than the 93 and newer, But it is on the driver side just behind the front tire as the pipes join together, you will have to remove the skid plate to get to it, the sensor is on top of the pipe. Make sure its cold before you try removing it, you can't help but touch the exhaust. Make sure you get an O2 socket, and I use Parts Blaster, most parts stores carry it. It will be rather rusty and hard to turn. When you put the new one on you can use some anti seize on the threads to prevent the new one from rusting up as much. The 91-92 actually use a GM engine, where as the 93 and up use the Isuzu engine.
Remove the positive battery cable first. The starter is on the passenger side of the engine. Might be easier to get to from below. Remove the bolts holding the wiring to it than the bolts that mount the starter in place. Be careful if it has shims that you make sure you put them back in the same way. (These are little thin spacers that go between the mounting surface and the starter). Installation is reverse. Probably would take you no more than 30 minutes to do it all.
Open the drivers side door,look at the end or side of dash where door meets. Try that Look under the dash where the other fuses are and you will see a little fuse block with a tiny red reset button. If the button is out, push it in to reset your window fuse. My windows have quit working twice and I had to do this, and then I haven't had the problem in months.
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