No way can anyone tell you how to do this here in this space. It requires removing the intake and exhaust manifolds, and then removing the head. A very complicated job that requires skill, knowledge, and the proper tools. Buy a repair manual if you want to tackle this job.
In my experience, I had a 1995 Isuzu trooper with a bad fuel pump. Or so I thought, it was actually the wires going to the pump that separated. Try this, before dropping the tank; first rermove the air in let goin to the throttle and spray carb cleaner in there, start the engine, if it starts for a couple of seconds your pump is bad. Als0o remove the fuel cap put your ear close by and have someone put the ingition in the on position. You should hear a whizzing sound which would be your fuel pump. No whizzing??? Bad pump. Whoops forgot to mention make sure the fuel pump relay is good before doing anything first.
That's a good trick but not necessarily indicative of a bad fuel pump. My 89 Trooper also fired up briefly with starter fluid sprayed into the air inlet, but turns out the fuel pump did work, which I was able to establish by jumping two terminal slots where the fuel pump relay goes. You need a wiring diagram to figure out which two slots of the five to jump.
your car won't start. at least that is what happened to me in my truck (with a full tank of g
P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire
Engine may stumble or miss
Engine may be hard to start
you may notice no issues
Failing spark plugs or spark plug wires
Bad coil or coil pack
Failing oxygen sensor(s)
Bad fuel injector or more than one
Stuck exhaust valve
Bad catalytic converter
EGR valve or valve passage clogging
Bad camshaft position sensor
Bad PCM or ECM
Best first action is a tune up, new plugs, wires, inspect all hoses and wire connections then reset the code. If it returns you will need to narrow it down to a system, coils and coil packs should be tested, catalytic converters for function ( do you smell rotten eggs?). A misfire that jumps cylinders could indicate a lean condition, do you have any other codes along with the 300? this will help clue you in to the source, check valve function to make sure they are opening and closing fully.
This is probably pone of the most difficult codes to troubleshoot, so start with the basics and work your way into the more expensive options, in many cases a good old tune up solves the problem, back it up with a fuel system cleaning and see where you stand.
IAW the Mitchell shop manual, the CPS is located top front of the engine between the camshafts. The plastic covered wire going into the sparkplug cover probably goes to it. (may need to remove the top cam belt cover to see it---not real sure as I haven't been into it yet. As I understand, the CPS regulates the fuel to the engine. As I have one that is defective/dirty/out of adjustment, the tailpipe is sooty to the touch.
IT IS LOCATED UNDER THE PASSINGER SIDE DOOR FIRST BUY YOUR FUEL FILTER AND GAS HOSE CLAMPS THEN GET UNDER THE CAR CUT THE OLD HOSE AT THE VERY END AT BOTH ENDS THE FILTER HAS A BRACKET AROUND IT TAKE THE NUT OUT OF THE BRACKET TAKE THE FILTER AND OLD HOSE OUT THENMEASURE THE OLD HOSES CUT THE NEW ONES TO TO THR RIGT SIZE PUT THEM ONTHE NEW FILTER MAKE SURE YOU UNDO YOUR GAS CAP TO LET THE PRUSSER OUT OF THE TANK.
Hello, just changed my fuel filter a few thousand miles and figured I'd add my two cents. In addition to removing the fuel cap it's a good idea to also remove the the fuel pump fuse from the relay box and run the engine until it stalls out. This is on fuel injected MFI systems. Disconnecting the negative cable form the battery is also a good safety procedure. Even after depressurizing the fuel system be prepared to handle, clean, and protect yourself from volatile fuel. Peace and LOVE
yes if the leak is before oxygen sensors or catalic convertor. you can bring your vehical to any parts store to have the check engine light checked
If the AC system has been opened as in a condensor coil replacement, hose replacement or for any other reason then the system must be evacuated. This is done using a vacuum pump. All the air must be removed prior to recharging with new gas, (freon, ect.) best bet is to have it performed by a qualified shop.
the manufactures answer is no, but the answer to me is yes.... in order to remove it from a 98 or newer amigo you must remove the rear Glass window and that requires removing 1 thing of weather stripping from the vehicle, so if you dont mind that then the top can be removed.AnswerYes, my son has a 1999 Isuzu Amigo with a removable hard top. AnswerInterestingly, just last eve, after seeing an ad for a convertible one and being unfamiliar with the model, I was researching these vehicles. The seemingly expert discussion I read said that they only made 2 versions: Convertible and fixed hard top. That was because they made a study of Jeep CJ owners (it's most similar competition), which indicated something like 97% never removed the hardtop on those vehicles, and making the top removeable costs like $500 more and has engineering problems.
The convertible Amigo has a canvas (supposidly) easily retractable top where the hartop portion would otherwise be. Unfortunately, it also has plastic windows.
I own a 1992 Isuzu Amigo that has a removable hard top and the window is glass... In fact it only takes two bolts to remove it and it comes off pretty easy. I'm a girl and I remove it myself but, of course after I remove the bolts I need a little help to lift it off...
The Automatic transmission is just like any other automatic, but without a dipstick. Its a General Motors 4L30E. To check the level and condition of your fluid is dificult due to the fact that you need to have a drive on or 4-point lift. First drive the vehicle till temp gauge is at norm temp. 2. lift vehicle. 3. locate fill and drain plugs on transmission pan. 4. open fill plugg.fill plugg is higher on the pan in relation to the drain plugg. also the drain fill pluggs need a 21mm wrench to loosen so they are kinda easy to find, they are near the rear of the transmissioin. carefull, hot fluid may come out and burn you. 5. if there is fluid that pours out it means that the transmission was over-filled. if there is fluid when you insert you finger in the hole then the level is ok. if fluid is not felt to within 1/4 inch if hole then transmission is low. Fluid color and smell tell a lot about the condition.
It's usually on a sticker under the hood but you can always buy a motor manual with the diagram in it.
The coolant temperature sensor that controls ECU cold start fuel enrichment and ignition timing is located behind the power steering pump on the bottom of the intake manifold right behind the thermostat housing.
The O2 light means the oxyogen sensor is needing to be replaced. It should be some where in the exhaust system.Answerit is located on the exhaust manifold with wires to a plug coming from it
I have a '99 Amigo. I know it looks more difficult than it actually is. If I can do it any one can! The bulb has a black ring holding it in place. Just turn it to the right, it can be a little difficult to turn it because it's in a tight space, but keep at it it'll loosen. Once you get the black ring unscrewed carefully pull out the bulb from the head light (back the bulb out slowly from the headlight and angle it downward when you are taking it out). Then push on the little button on the flat side of the bulb to release it from the socket and pull. This might also take a little determination because of the tight area but it will come out pretty easily. Change the bulb then put it all back together the way it came out. ** Note: Make sure you get the correct bulb because for some reason they make 2 different bulbs with the same part number 9004. My Amigo takes the extended vision bulb(9400 XV) that has a metal thing at the bottom of the bulb and it is a little shorter then the other one with out the metal thing. If you get the other one it will fit in to the socket but you will not be able to tighten the black ring on it. The books in the auto parts store don't say that there are 2 different types.
Its located under the drivers side seat underneath the car. It has two small clamps that hold it and a braket that has a small screw that will needed to be removed to replace the filter
In all honesty, the best way to convert from 2wd to 4wd is to sell the 2wd and buy a 4wd. You will spend more to do a conversion than the Amigo is worth.
The fuel pump is an 'in tank' pump. You have to lower the tank to get to the plate that has the fuel pump attatched.
Automatic trans fluid has three basic types: Mercon for older Fords, "Dexron plus three" for Chrysler and plain Dexron for everything else. You need ordinary Dexron Automatic Transmission fluid
Many things can cause a check engine light to come on and the O2 sensor is just one of them. This car is 16 years old. I can think of many things it may need. I would replace every single vacuum hose, spark plugs & plug wires to start. You may also have a clogged catalytic converter. Depending on how this vehicle has been serviced, it may need more.
disconnect the battery
This is a complex procedure, did the vehicle run after the timing belt broke. The 3.2 is an interference engine. The interpretation is that the pistons and valves may colide when the timing belt broke. If you heard a lot of noise this could be very bad.
To align, the timing marks you must remove the timing cover, turn the crankshaft by hand (do not use starter) to top dead center. (align timing marks, move crank clockwise) If you encounter much resistance you will have to move one or both of the overhead camshafts, you can't miss these are the two pullys in front of each side of the top of the engines (exposed when you take timing cover off) Sometime you have to remove the #1 spark plug to know if you are at TDC (top dead center) Timing marks align every two rotations, but can be 180 degrees off, which means if you instert a wire hanger in the spark plug hole and the hanger is deeper on one rotation of timing mark alignment then you are 180 degrees off. You want #1 pistion in its top most position. After you have TDC you may rotate you cam pully to align with the timing marks. Use a manual, this will help with the procedure.
I believe the information above is not fully correct. Here are procedures I found helpful and I wrote in response to another similar question.
Here is the correct procedure for a 3.2l v6:
This is not an interference type engine, thank goodness.
here is the process for timing:
It sounds like you moved a cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or so you will need to do all these procedures:
1. Turn the crankshaft until the notch on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).
2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without too much compression resistance.
3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully being lined up with the mark on the engine head. You may have to turn the camshaft 9 turns. But when it lines up it will be obvious.
4. Turn the driver's side camshaft clockwise until it "jumps" into place but is 90 degrees before(at the 9 O'Clock when you consider the timing mark is at the 12 O'clock position) the timing mark being lined up. Then gently move the camshaft until the marks line up.
5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.
6. Line up the crankshaft notch with the mark that is at 3 O'clock. Place the new belt on the camshafts first, lining up the belt timing line with the marks on the pully and head. Place a clamp on the belt over the cam sprocket to keep them from moving. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. Now you can wind the belt around the pullys and align the line on the belt with the timing mark on the crankshaft at the 270 degree point (opposite of the notch and factory mark at 3 O'clock). There should be a factory blue dot on the crankshaft where the belt dots should line up. Do not worry about lining up the crankshaft marks at the 3 o'clock position as they will be a notch off if the blue lines are lined up on the opposite side.
7. Insure that you have looped the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the water pump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.
8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or Allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.
9. If all lines are aligned and the play is removed from the driver's side then this step should be easy. Hold the tensioner pully against the belt and install the tensioner adjuster. Then pull the dril bit or Allen wrench to release the adjuster. Sometimes this step can be a bit tricky and you may need some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge. Remove the drill bit or Allen wrench.
10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other then repeat the adjustment procedure. Although this isn't supposed to be an interference engine, it is always a good idea to do this step just as a matter of habit.
11. If everything seems OK you can try turning the engine over with the ignition. If it doesn't start, don't keep trying. Assume you need to perform the steps again and realign everything.
if u need to find it well then go to google and write the name and u will find what ever u want k
I just replaced the 1157 bulb in the right rear housing of my '99 this week. The housing is held in by two screws in the side and another in the bottom dead center. after removing the screws the unit pulls stright out from the back. Be careul as there are two push in locator pins atached to the back of the housing. If you should break one off JB Weld works wonders...hint, hint. Once the light unit is loose you will see that the wiring harness socket is the only thing holding it in the truck. This is a plastic spring clip that releases at the bottom rear. Note that it only goes back in one way. With the wiring unplugged you can now take the light unit somewhere comfortable. you will see that the lens is held in from the back with screws. I hope his is helpul john
on the 5 speed manuel theres a plug on the side of the transmission, remove the plug and use a syphon pump to add fluid until it starts to pour out the hole. to remove the existing fluid remove the plug from the bottom of the transmission.
About $240.00 to $280.00
Connected to the flywheel housing.
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