Ford Escort LX

Ah, the ignition module for a 1993 F-150 with a 300 straight 6 engine can usually be found mounted on the distributor. It's a little box that helps control the spark to your engine, like a conductor leading an orchestra of pistons. Just take your time, follow the wires, and you'll find it nestled in there, ready to keep your truck running smoothly.

This issue could be caused by a faulty speed sensor, loose wiring, or a malfunctioning gauge cluster. It is recommended to have a mechanic inspect the speed sensor and wiring for any issues and replace or repair as needed. If the problem persists, the gauge cluster may need to be replaced.

The water outlet housing on a 2004 Chrysler Sebring is typically a metal or plastic component that connects to the engine and routes coolant from the engine to the radiator. It usually has multiple hoses attached to it and is located near the top of the engine.

Wide cut fuels are a type of fuel that consists of a mixture of various hydrocarbons with a wide range of boiling points. They are commonly used in industry and transportation due to their versatility and ability to be used in a variety of applications. Examples of wide cut fuels include gasoline and diesel.

A 1995 Pontiac Firebird could lose power due to issues such as a clogged fuel filter, a failing fuel pump, a faulty ignition coil, or a problem with the catalytic converter. These components can affect the fuel delivery or engine performance, resulting in power loss.

The two poles that open the trunk lid in a 1993 Ford Escort are called trunk struts or lift supports. They help to support the weight of the trunk lid and keep it open when raised.

For a Mercury Cougar XR7 1994 V6, you should use a synthetic oil that meets the manufacturer's recommended viscosity grade, which is likely 5W-30. Some recommended synthetic oil brands for this vehicle include Mobil 1, Castrol EDGE, and Valvoline SynPower. Be sure to consult your owner's manual for specific recommendations.

The 1986 Mercury Topaz originally came with a 2.3L inline-four engine. If you are looking to swap in a different engine, common choices may include the 2.0L or 2.3L engines from the same era Ford vehicles like the Ford Escort or Ranger. It's important to consider compatibility with the transmission, mounts, and wiring when doing an engine swap.

You must check the coolant level in your radiator and reservoir. Low coolant levels can lead to overheating. If it's low, you may have a coolant leak that needs to be repaired. Good luck!

83xbrThe answer is that you can't adjust the idle speed on any car since the 80s, because the Feds mandated a design that allows only automotive shops to do that. If you need to increase your idle speed, you can cheat by finding the throttle cable linkage at the carb or throttle body. There should be a flat piece of metal to which the throttle cable is attached. The metal is hinged and spring loaded usually. When you step on the gas, the piece of metal hinges away from the carb/throttle body. The piece of metail serves as a stop when it hinges back to the carb/throttle body. Wrap a zip-tie or some other relatively thin material around the flat piece of metal and you will artificially keep it from returning to the lowest idle point. Use materials of differing thicknesses until you achieve the idle speed you want.

Lower radiator hose.

It may be easier to use the drain plug located on the left hand side of the radiator. Its on the back of the radiator. Do not mistake the heater core for the radiator. The radiator is the one with the thick rubber hoses.

To take off the lower radiator hose you have to remove the air filter box.

This was a common problem on mid to late 80s' GM cars...The torque converter lock up clutch does not disengage and when you put the gearselector into drive the Torque converter clutch stops the motor.

The test for this problem is to put the drive wheels up in the air-put the car in gear and see if the motor kills. If not then the Torque converter clutch is stuck.. The simplest repair is to unplug the Torque converter plug on the outside of the transmission then the Torque converter clutch will usually disengage.

If you could tell me what make/model/year and motor that you have i can be more specific.

Hope that helps..

Good luck.

I would look up inside the fender in front of the pass. side wheel. Or drivers wheel, check your fuse> I remember Tempos were bad for the harness behind steering wheel and plugged in under steering column, it was a part the dealer kept in stock. .

If it has one, it is inside the car on the firewall about 18 inches up from the floor on the pass side. The fuel shut off switch is located on the passenger side rear fender. Well, in the trunk of the hatchbacks, and same location for wagons. You will see a little door in the trunk, on the right side, about 1-2ft above floor. Open this door, and see if the switch was faulted. This can happen from sudden impacts (like hitting a shopping cart, like i did), or maybe you took off or slowed down too fast. I would consider checking this. If you hear your fuel pump whining when you turn on your ignition, i would probably have someone check it out.

The PGM-FI unit is located under carpet at the passenger side. It covered by frame. Good luck. The ignition control module of any late model Honda/Acura product is always the PGMFI computer, which controls all fuel delivery and ignition timing coordination. Now, if you have a problem, that is ignition related, first replace the plugs, then the wires, and shortly after the ign coil itself. That's how you approach a Honda ign prob.

Prior to 1994, R-12 was the refrigerant freon. It should likely be recharged with the same, or have a shop fully empty the unit, and check it for compatibility with the later freon.

If the system is discharged, you'll also need to have it pressure-checked for leaks. Remember, in most states, discharging the unit will cost you a fairly large fine, if not done according to EPA standards.

You'll also need to change the condensor/drier for the AC unit, as leaks in the system, or recharges need the dessicant refreshed. R-12 seems to be a 'colder' refrigerant at a lower pressure, but requires some fairly special handling, and may be more expensive due to the treaties on Freon use.

Remove the wneels then the drum retainer that holds the drum on while it is on the assy line. Then pull the drums off. If the shoes have worn into the drums you have to retract the shoes to let the drums come off. If they are sticking on the center, sometimes heat is required to get them loose.

Remove the wheels then the drums should just slide off. If they are rusted on, WD40 and a hammer should do it. If the shoes have scored the drums, you have to retract the shoes first. If you can't do that you can pry the drums off and ruin the springs and fittings. You have to replace them and know how they go if you do that.

check the timing belt if it has broken or stripped its teeth this would cause a complete breakdown u can check this by removing the cover on the end of the engine.there are electrical issues therse would need checking 2 generally its to do with the earths the earth wires in and around the engine bay if and when they give trouble they can cause a non start.if not you will need to get your car to a garge so they can put it on a diagnostic machine .