First i will know the processor,RAM,hard drives,ac os,windows ans linux
well its a job alright you take a 6 by 6 or 8 by 8 wood post and put in under your hood from top of fender to fender and get a log chain and chain the motor up .the you take the tire off pop out lower ball joints steering ,arm ,cv axles then go back to the top unplug all switches and loosen and break free the two lines trannsmission line (metal) after you get everything unplug you have to remove the subframe and tranny mount then get a jack under the tranny and loosen the bellhousing bolts then the torque converter bolts and any plug or line take it loose and the let the jack down Stanley little at yahoo.com
get 3 people or 2 strong guys and take it out the bottom. and if you don't take the front bumper off and the windshield washer fluid tank it will be a tight fit.
Alzheimer's is one possibility, but not the only one.
This happened to Michael J. Fox while shooting the film "Doc Hollywood". He would go back to his motel room and his finger started shaking.
While this is probably not the real reason ... one should seek a Medical opinion and have it checked out. Any nervous tics could be the symptoms of something to come. See your Doctor.AnswerMichael J Fox has Parkinson's disease AnswerCould be nerve damage. Have you ever had a back or neck injury? I suffered a cervical spine fracture of the C-6 vertebrae (shoulder line) roughly 20 years ago (15 at the time) and I still have little twitches in my fingers on some days. Late at night my feet will also involuntarily twitch as well. WE ALL GET TWITCHES!All people will get the odd twitch or "tick" in their eyelid, brow, lip, fingers and even toes. Some doctors believe it is low calcium, but it's possible you could have slept wrong, stressed some muscles or even done something as simple as carried something heavy in that hand. EXAMPLE: I had a very sore right shoulder for weeks and also I had one finger that twitched (more aggravating than anything else) and I couldn't figure out what it was. It suddenly dawned on me I carried a purse with strap over my right shoulder that had notes and books in it that I use for meetings. The weight was the issue. I've even had this happen to a finger due to carrying those plastic groceries bags by the handle (if the bag is full of heavy articles the plastic digs into the fingers and caused lack of blood circulation for a few minutes.)
Are you a typist? My pointer finger on my left hand started twitching, sometimes it went into my thumb. I was told it could be Carpal tunnel syndrome which I always thought was just in the wrist but apparently not! I work as a medical office assistant typing all day.
Fords (and Mercury and Lincoln) are infamous for vacuum leaks. It is possible that you have a leaking vacuum hose, or a missing vacuum system cap, which would make a hissing noise if you open the hood with the vehicle running.
The problem could also be sensor related so find out if it is showing a MIL code and see which one it is, newer cars are made to self diagnose their problems, once you have that starting point you can make some educated guesses as to what to fix first.
Which fan is not working? Engine fan or HVAC fan?
Automobile PCV valves can leak oil.
Not sure where it is on that model;it will be attached to a hose assembly to let air from the crankcase (bottom of the engine) get sucked back into the intake (top of the engine).AnswerThe pcv value is located on the value cover next to the oil cap. The pcv value has a hose attached to it that goes from the pcv value to the bottom of the fuel injector. Once you remove this hose, the value can be easily removed with a 3/4" or 20mm wrench.
Depending on the vehicle, the cooling fan may strike the radiator shroud, the cooling fan may also strike a radiator hose and you may end up with a cracked/leaky exhaust system.
I had this problem and took my 1990 cavalier to a shop. Nothing came up on diagnostic so they decided my ignition module and coil packs needed to be replaced. This fixed my problem but costed me around 450.00!
It depends on which engine you have. V6 1-6-5-4-3-2 if it's a 4 cyl 1-3-4-2.
ok. I have a '96-er and mine went about a week ago. pain the the butt. crawl on your back underneath the steering column so your head is near the pedals. look up. there is a metal panel with two switches the rest against the upper panel of the brakes. above it attached by a clip (or in my cavy, glue) is a little square with a cable running from it. that's it. be careful though, the switches resting on the brakes control the brake lamps and cruise control. i squeezed my stubby little hands up to get the flasher and snapped the plastic on the brake light switch.
above all. Google it. theres a pretty darn good diagram out there that pretty well explains it.
This was exactly what was happenning to my 1989 Ford Bronco 351W engine. After it warmed up, it worked OK. It turned out to be a stuck/rusty EGR valve. I had replaced a few inexpensive parts until I realized what it was. I simply removed it from the block and sprayed the inside with wd40 and attempted to carefully work it back and forth. This fixed it up and its been working fine for a year now. In an extreme case, you might have to get a new one.
You can buy a spray from any local department store that has an autmotive section. The spray is for wet spark plugs and when you dowse them and your distributor cap it clears the water off.
If you try this and the car fires up on those wet days and eminates your problem then you know it results from damp spark plugs and distributor.
If you have never replaced a new set with wires and cap - do it and reap the rewards.
Likely a spark problem. Might be a cracked distributor cap, or faulty wires. Moisture makes insulators more conductive, and reduces the spark that can be generated, therefore no spark in the cylinder
If you are asking this question in relation to a networked laser printer this seems to be an issue with either a corrupt driver or a network error.
I have sorted mine out by simply downloading the updated driver from the printer manufacturer's website.
On the 2.2 engine it is located on the lower raditar hose water pump side. just follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the motor, the metal tube it connects to has either 2 or 3 bolts holding it to the motor, simply remove these bolts, remove the housing that the hose hooks to, and the thermostat is right inside there.
(In 1999 the 2.4 or LD9 didn't have an egr valve on the 1998 LD9 the egr valve is on the tranny side of the motor towards the front of the car.)
This answer is only partially correct....
Your car may or may not have one. Gm switched half way through 99 to a non EGR setup. So... Some had it and some didn't. IF you do have one it is extremely easy to find. It is on the front, top, driver side of the engine(just a few enchis from your battery). Just next to the Black blastic intake manifold. Look for a Black round plastic device mounted on top of a metal triangular part, that has a metal flex tube coming off the front of it. Bingo, EGR. If there is nothing there then your car is mid 1999 and up with no EGR.
replace the entire engine.
copy link and paste...
Important When required, refer to the appropriate year service manuals when performing the following procedures.
Remove camshaft from cylinder head. Pressure test cooling system.
While monitoring the pressure gauge for air pressure drop, inspect all hose connections and visible joints for engine coolant leaks. Inspect the camshaft journals and surrounding areas using a bright light, to help locate hairline cracks. (Refer to illustrations for examples of area where cracks may appear.)
Important Air pressure may drop slowly, depending on the severity of the crack(s).
If a crack is detected in one or more of the areas shown, cylinder head assembly must be replaced. If no crack is detected, proceed to step 5. Remove cylinder head and gasket. Proceed to step 6 and flush engine block and cooling system before installing new cylinder head and new cylinder head gasket.
Important Engine block, radiator and heater core must be flushed before installing new cylinder head and new cylinder head gasket.
If pressure bleeds down, but no leaks or cracks are detected, remove cylinder head assembly and inspect the cylinder head gasket for damage between the oil and engine coolant passages. If cylinder head gasket is damaged, remove and discard cylinder head gasket, and proceed to step 6.
Important Engine block, radiator and heater core must be flushed before installing cylinder head and new cylinder head gasket.
If cylinder head gasket is not damaged, inspect engine blocks for cracks in the oil and engine coolant passages in the cylinder liner area. If cracks are detected, replace engine block. Leave upper radiator hose connected to the radiator. Remove and discard lower radiator hose. Open radiator drain plug. Insert a hose in the upper radiator hose and flush radiator with clean water until clean water flows from the lower radiator hose connection. Remove and discard upper radiator hose. Remove water inlet housing and thermostat and discard thermostat. Remove engine cooling system drain plug, located at the right front of the engine block below the thermostat. Remove and discard water pump. Place shop rags in the exposed cylinder bores. Using a hose, fill the exposed water jacket surrounding the cylinders with clean water until clean water comes out of the thermostat location. Remove shop rags from cylinder head bores and apply a liberal amount of 5W - 30 engine oil to the cylinder liners to help prevent corrosion.
Important Do not install thermostat at this time.
Install water inlet housing to engine. Install engine cooling system drain plug. Install new water pump. Leave inlet heater hose connected to heater core. Remove and discard outlet heater hose. Insert hose into inlet heater hose and flush with clean water until clean water comes out of heater core outlet. Remove and discard inlet heater core hose. Remove and discard coolant recovery hose. Remove coolant recovery reservoir and flush thoroughly with clean water. Install remanufactured or previously removed cylinder head and new cylinder head gasket. Install new radiator, heater and coolant recovery hoses. Change engine oil engine oil filter.
Prepare a mixture of Calgon � or equivalent (automatic dishwater detergent), and water at the rate of 59 milliliters (two ounces) (dry measure) to 3.8 Liters (1 gallon) of water. The cooling system holds approximately 7.6 liters (two gallons) of coolant.
Fill the cooling system with the mixture. Run the engine for five minutes.
Drain the cooling system. Repeat Step 29 through 32 until all oil residue is remove from system. Fill the cooling system with clean water. Let the engine run five minutes. Drain the cooling system completely. Install new engine thermostat. Install cylinder block drain plug. Close radiator drain plug.
Important The vehicle must be level when filling with coolant.
Fill the system with coolant. 1991-1996 early vehicle equipped with "Green" Saturn non-phosphate ethylene glycol-base coolant, fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of new Saturn non-phosphate ethylene glycol-base coolant (P/N 21030365, 3.8 Liter [one gallon] container). 1996 interim and 1997 vehicles equipped with "Orange" Saturn DEX-COOL � extended-life engine coolant, fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of new Saturn DEX-COOL � extended-life engine coolant (P/N 21031164, 3.8 Liter [one gallon] container). Start engine and check for leaks. Fill the coolant recovery reservoir to the full cold line after the engine has run for two or three minutes. Install and tighten cap.
When adding DEXCOOL, Make sure it is mixed at a 50/50 ratio with distilled water. And never add any unless it is DEXCOOL or distiled water. Adding the old green takes away boil protection and returns the coolant to 2-3 year change cycle.
Ok, the firing order for the 4 cylinder engine is 1-3-4-2. Judging by the fact that you asked for as much info as possible, you're probably also going to want the diagram. I got hte firing order out of my Haynes Maunal, and I would recommend that you get one too. They are about 12 dollars at most auto places. I personally got mine at Autozone. You may also be able to find a diagram on the net, but I was unable to after looking for about five mins. Firing Order:
For the 2.0L, 122cu. in. (Vin) Code 1), 1987-89 2.2L, 134 cu. in. (VIN Code G & 4), 1990-92 4 cyl, OHV Distributorless: 1-3-4-2
E-mail me for a diagram
How to change the serpentine belt tensioner on a 1991 2.2L Chevrolet Cavalier:
The tensioner comes as an assembly (aluminum plate with pre-loaded spring and pulley). These are EXACT instructions on how to do this year/model and is not a generic answer.
This tensioner plate assembly also fits on these models:
Step 1: Disconnect Battery.
Step 2: Remove Belt - 15mm wrench on pulley - turn clockwise to remove tension. There may be no spring tension - but that's why you're changing it - right?
Step 3: Remove Power steering pump - Remove small bolt (10mm) on the back side of power steering pump (you are facing engine from passenger side). Use a box-end wrench or one of those ratchet box-end wrenches. Next, there are 3 bolts (13mm) in the front - behind the pulley. There are holes in the pulley specifically for the purpose of removing these bolts. I used a magnet to pull the bolts out after loosened but you may be able to reach under the pulley with your fingers to get them out. You should now be able to move the pump out of the way toward the firewall. Be careful to not break the plastic top. If you have to pry it, do it on the bottom metal part. No need to remove any hoses.
Step 4: Remove alternator - Remove all bolts holding the alternator in place. It should just be laying there (Upper alternator bracket removed).
Step 5: Remove belt tensioner assembly plate - Remove four 15mm bolts that hold the aluminum plate to the engine block. Mine were on pretty tight so I had to use a breaker bar to get 'em off.
Step 6: Compare new tensioner assembly with old one. They should match. Attach plate to engine block with four 15mm bolts. Make sure they're tight. You don't want this to come loose.
Step 7: Re-align power steering pump to 3 holes in tensioner plate and screw in the 3 bolts (don't tighten yet). Next - take the small 10mm bolt that goes in the back of the pump assembly and carefully get it started with your fingers (left hand) The 2 holes should be aligned because the 3 bolts in front are started. Tighten all 4 bolts.
Step 8: Alternator - Re-install the long bolt and nut that goes in the bottom of the alternator (you may have to loosen the lower alternator bracket so the holes align). Don't tighten bolt and nut yet. Let the alternator pivot/swing towards the engine. This will make it easier to get the belt on (This is the way I did it - you may be able to get the belt on with all alternator bolts in).
Step 9: Serpentine belt install - If new belt, make sure it's the same length as the old one. Route the belt like the diagram sticker. The alternator is the last pulley it will go over. If you can get someone to help you here, it's a lot easier. Turn the 15mm bolt on the tensioner pulley clockwise until there's enough slack to slip the belt over the alternator pulley. While keeping the tension off the pulley, replace the other 2 bolts/upper alternator bracket. Slowly let the the tensioner spring back. Replace and tighten the rest of the alternator/bracket bolts.
Step 10: Re-connect battery
This is for a four cylinder (most were) Torque sequence ------------ front | 8 4 1 5 9 | of | | engine | 7 3 2 6 10 | ------------ Step 1: torque long bolts 8,4,1,5, & 9 to 46 Ft/Lbs torque short bolts 7,3,2,6, & 10 to 43 Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque all bolts an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION *** engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) that permanently stretch during the initial installation. New head bolts must be used when cylinder head is replaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque. This is for a six cylinder (One side at a time) Note: Torque sequence --------- | 6 2 3 7 | | 5 1 4 8 | --------- Step 1: torque in sequence to 33 Ft/Lbs Step 2: turn an additional 90 degrees Recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION *** engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) that permanently stretch during the initial installation. New head bolts must be used when cylinder head is replaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque. This is all pasted from Auto Zone's website. It's not really copyrighted I'm guessing because you can easily go into a store and they will print this off for you. Good Luck!!
Test all the fuses in the fuse box that's on the driver side of the dash , it could just be a blown fuse.
Check your lock-up solenoid. It is located in the transmission side pan. It will become stuck when the transmission becomes hot, causing the car to want to stall when coming to a stop and shutting off the car when put into drive while it is hot. I had the same problem and it ended up being the fuel pump. When the fuel pump is going out it will get hot then shut off and that will cause your car to shut off. then 10 to 15 min. later the fuel pump will cool off and the car will start. Not trying to step on your answer. If you are not doing a lot of highway driving Disconnect the trans switch it is a four pronged push in located at the front of the trans. It might lower your fuel economy just slighty but it will solve the stalling. I replaced the tranny in my 92 because of this and four months later same problem that was 2700.00 I could have spent on something else I have be running for over 8 months like this and I drive about 1600 miles a week both highway and city. If the vehicle dies immediately when you shift to D...the problem lies in a stuck TCC solinoid. This usaully happens once the car warms up & has a 125C Transmission. Well most of the time, when your car gets to hot it automatically shuts down the engine to keep the alluminum head from melting, when it cools off it will start right back up. could be the coil It is most likely the crank sensor, this happened to me. Had the same problem, I replaced everything from the fuel pump, fuel filter, IAC valve, throttle body, and it ended up being the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I had the exact thing happen to me on a 1993 Pontiac Grand Am. I spent about 1200 replacing parts on it. When at last I figured out it was the Crank Shaft sensor. Then it would drive for a while and die. That ended up being a seloid in the transmission. fuel pump. my 2002 grand am has already had this replaced. not to hard to do. drop the fuel tank and it is self explanitory.
What can the problem be as my 1998 Lumina car is losing missing anti frezze. When I fill the radiator my heater is starting to give off heat.
At times their is a red light to goes on and off at the right side and bottom of the dash board.
I have no idea what this light is showing as to the missing anti frezze.
Dose the electric fan that is not working has any relashionship why i am missing antifrezze and whare dose the anntifrezze go or evaparate.
Please answer because i am now confused.
Most likely you have a small hole in the radiator somewhere. I have the same problem in my 1995 Lumina, and I have to replace approximately 1/2 gallon of antifreeze approximately every 6 weeks or so. This would be most noticeable when you see a puddle left underneath the car where the radiator sits. You want to find out what size the radiator is by using a tape measure across the top of the radiator. For the '95, there are 3 different core sizes, so I have to match mine to the correct size. Any time you see that Low Coolant light go on, you know that you need to refill your coolant. Wait until the engine has cooled off before refilling though.
Hey Aaron==It is a pretty big job but if you feel up to tackeling it get you a shop manual on your car. It will have pictures and everything. Good luck Joe
Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"
I own a 1993 cavalier and the flasher is on the steering column just below the underside of dash panel. From drivers seat it is on right side.Remove access panel and you should be able to see it. On the right near the base of the exposed steering column you should see a silver electrical box about the size of a box of matches with a wire plugged into the high end. it is right behind it. i removed the clip that was holding it to the car and got it out without removing this silver box. It looks just like the one in the fuse panel.Good luck from this point, because it's really tight to get to.Once I got mine out ,I didn't bother to put the thing back in the bracket. Just stick it back in the spot it came from and put access panel back on,just in case you need to do this again!
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