The serpentine belt tensioner / pulley is on the front of the engine, and part of the belt 'routing'.
Its job is to put tension on the belt as it drives the other devices like the power steering pump, water pump, air conditioning compressor.
It is an aluminum casting that mounts with a single bolt to the engine. The pulley is attached to the arm.
There are a few ways to move / pry the arm inwards, thus releasing the tension on the belt for removing/installing: grab on the pulley bolt (15mm?) with a wrench, or some later models have an opening for a 3/8th socket wrench to attach to directly without a socket.
"Screaming"/whining that goes up and down with engine speed is a key symptom of a bearing wearing out - one of which of course is the tensioner pulley bearing.
The serpentine belt tensioner / idler pulley is preset at the factory. If it is worn out, it will need to be replaced.
You can also just replace the pulley if that is the problem and save about $25.
I just replaced the alternator on my wife's 2003 Windstar. It may not be applicable to your 97. I put the car up on ramps because the tensioner is the bottom-most pulley, nearest to the passenger compartment and almost directly below the power steering pump pulley. You need a 13mm wrench. I had a helper (my wife) working topside to put the belt over the alternator pulley, etc while I took the tension out of the tensioner pulley. I had to use the full allowable travel of the tensioner in order to get the belt on all of the pulleys properly. A younger stronger person could probably do it by himself by leaving the belt off of the balance wheel until last. There are likely spring clips that could be removed from the tensioner and then replaced as the final step, but there's not much room and my way dodged some skinned knuckles. Hope this helps.
The "official" way to release the belt tension is to rotate the tensioner about 110 degrees counter clockwise, and press a flexible metal leaf on its side into a holding slot. Doing this does away with the need to pull hard on the belt. On at least some pre-2002 Windstar models, this was rather easily done with a long screwdriver or pry bar because the tensioner and the front idler pulley were one unit. But on the 2002, Ford decided they should be 2, and moved the tension into an impossible-to-access from above location. On the 2002, you can't even get a socket on the tensioner pully bolt to rotate it that way, because there's less than 1 inch of clearance between the bolt head and the vehicle frame. You'll have to decide if it's worth getting under the vehicle to save some pulling effort.
Follow serpentine belt to pulley that is not connected to any engine component
Follow the serpentine (drive) belt into the engine compartment. Now go down. See that pulley that is farthest away from the front grill? That is the tension adjustment pulley. Put a wrench on the center bolt (on the pulley) and apply counter clockwise force. This relieves the tension on the belt. I'd recommend a friend be present to place the belt while you are holding the pulley in the retracted position. Hope this helps.
Remove the belt, and the tensioner pulley just unbolts. You will need a flat type wrench. Can be purchased at local auto store. If I remember correctly the bolt is a 15mm.
All the way in the bottom back of the belt. It's easier to access it from under the car with a 13 mm wrench. If you're replacing it jack and support the car and remove the pulley (left hand threads) from under the vehicle. Then you can easily access the 3 mounting bolts. (The pulley has to come off to completely remove the bottom mounting bolt anyway) A long tensioner wrench does not relax the pulley enough to install a new belt from the top because of the AC, etc. hoses and the limited travel of the wrench. This is how I did it for my 3.8 engine, don't know about a 3.0 liter.
pretty simple.. remove the serp belt by rotating the tensioner, then remove the bolt(s) the hold the tensioner inple. reverse to install. make a note of belt routing before you take it off, although there should be a sticker under the hood indicating belt routing.
Addendum to above:
Note that the location of the Belt Tensioner is noted incorrectly in the Ford factory service manuals. The BT is near the firewall. Loosen the bolt that holds the BT to the engine block, put a wrench on the BT pulley bolt and, using leverage, rotate the entire assembly upward to relieve the belt tension.
If the assembly is too tight to move (mine was) thread a loop of 1" webbing around the BT arm, put a crowbar through the loop and heave. Make sure to avoid punching holes through things like your AC Compressor or manifold during this process.
...and I didn't find this simple at all
Yes - the pulley can be replaced as a separate part.
When you purchase the replacement part, it should be pretty logical on how to replace it on the tensioner arm - just one nut/bolt.
One note: you may want to loosen the pulley nut/bolt while the tensioner is still mounted to the engine - AFTER the belt has been removed!
tensioner won't lose tension unless they are bad or the belt is worn out. you can't adjust the tension.
Actually the filter on an automatic transmission is just a screen to keep the big chunks of metal from being sucked up into the pump. Most people replace them because they come with the kit of a seal and filter.
It's on the passenger side of the firewall next to what looks like a steel cannister with some lines going in and out. Follow the line that goes to what looks like a big tire valve fitting and you have found the fill port.
It needs to be lubricated where the pedal hangs off of the pivot point.
It's the big red lever under the steering wheel. Once you pull that down, the bonnet will 'pop up'. Then, in the gap inbettween the bonnet and the grill, hold up the metal bit you can see connected to the lock in the middle and lift up the bonnet.
On the bottom, where the cushion fits into the frame there are 2 clips. 1 on each side about 6 inches from the side panel. Lift up and push the clips fairly hard.
It is 2400 lbs. so it would be 1.2 tons.
$300 give or take $20 depending on where you take it.
They say you're not supposed to, and put thread locker on the Allen screw from the factory. BUT... If you raise the hood while engine is at an idle and find the lever that moves when you open the throttle, it has a tiny Allen screw up in it that you need a small Allen wrench to turn it towards the throttle stop. If you can't get that to work you can put something on the throttle stop it's self (that the throttle rests on) Like tapeing something to it like sheet metal shims or something of the sort.
It should be a code on the door pillar.
There are 2 spring loaded adjusters that take a 4 mm wrench or socket. The center adjuster adjusts the beam left and right. The outside adjuster adjusts the beam up and down. You shouldn't do thiis because if your lights are adjusted too high they could blind an oncoming car and cause an accident. Use the 2 adjusters to get the beams low enough that they don't bother anyone and take it to a repair shop that has the equipment to properly align your headlights.
The most reliable way is to go directly to the belt manufacturer's site.
In your owners manual, and near the serpentine belt there should be a routing diagram for your model that will show you the configurations(AC / no AC). also your owners manual should have a full set of specs for your specific model of vehicle.
The belt routing is dependent upon the car you have.
It is quite a job. No less than 28 steps. Your best bet is to get a Haynes Manual at the auto parts. It is about $20 and has step by step instructions along with pictures that explain how to set the valve timing once the belt has been removed and replaced.
Usually, if this sound is of very short duration it is because you replaced the filter. The oil filter on your engine has incorporated an anti-drainback valve which, once removed, removes oil from your engine passages that usually remain filled with oil. Upon starting the engine, it may take several seconds for oil pressure to reach normal levels and achieve quiet operation.
Note that on most fuel injected GM vehicles, the engine should not start until acceptable oil pressure is achieved and this noise indicates unacceptable quality of oil is being used.
Many modern engines made by European auto makers (notably MB and WV) require very specific properties in engine oil. Be sure that you are using an oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications.
If you have a Hyundai 4-cylinder engine and the noise lasts for more than about 3 to 4 seconds you may have an internal engine problem. If the noise persists for a few days or longer, consult with a mechanic.
== == On many vehicles with hydraulic valve lash adjustment (hydraulic lifters or hydraulic rockers) you should not change the oil with a warm or hot engine. If you do so, avoid any highway driving until the engine cools down to ambient temperature. Noise may indicate that you are damaging the engine's valvetrain.
it could be of an old beat up engine and a cylinder is bad..when that goes bad so does the ring..if you have that, it must be replaced.. a.s.a.p. i t could be a shortage of oil, transmission fluid, no oil, bad oil.. It is not abnormal for an engine to 'rap' for a few seconds on the first start immediately after an oil change; it takes a moment for the fresh oil to make its way to the valvetrain. If the rap is persistent, the above answer holds good suggestions 1. check the Oil Dip stick to see if you have oil in the engine 2. What does the oil pressure guage say your pressure is on he dash 3. did you recently fill up with gas that is junky may be 4. it could be a spun bearing, if so you will have to get it fix How to check if it is a spun bearing very simple dran the oil out of your truck Check the Bolt that you took out of the oil pan and see if there are small metal flaks stuck to it, also look up in the oil pan bolt hole to see if you see large metal pieces there. pretty simple cure in most cases just add oil to the filter before installation make sure the filter it top-ed off this should minimze the knock to less then a second I agree with the previous answer of topping the oil filter. In addition, if the noise is still present, change the filter again, and spray brake clean into the oil filter nipple. I would change the oil again at this point.
Engine diagrams are in most auto repair books. A good book that is basic, but very informative is the Haynes. It can be purchased at Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly or NAPA for about $20. Considering labor is about $ 100 an hour it wil pay for itself the first time you use it.
You need to take it to an auto trim shop. It's too hard for the average person to do.
Engine not running-------50-85 lbs.
Engine running-----------20-35 lbs
No, and in most states illegal if involved in an accident (Georgia Overdrive) i think what your asking is it safe if the car stalls while your moveing done the road can i put it in neutral,yes, it will not hurt anything and you can roll safely to the side of the road.when you are stopped put it back in park,so the car wont roll away
If it's a single knock or pop, it can be the tie-rod ends. If it's continuous knocking, almost grinding, most likely it's the CV Joint. But to be sure, lift the front of the car on jacks and grab the wheel that's making the noise at the 12 and 6 positions and give it a strong wiggle back and forth. If it gives freely for any distance, it's the CV Joint. Grab it at the 9 and 3 positions and wiggle those back and forth. If it moves freely for even a fraction of an inch, your tie-rod ends need to be replaced. Do the same to the other wheel because you never know if that one has a problem that hasn't audibly manifested yet. I suggest replacing both sides of the axle's tie-rod ends since you're going to have to get them aligned anyway. Replace both inner and outer tie-rod ends too. It'll be a little more expensive, but then you're only doing one re-alignment, and you know that you didn't leave any old parts in there that could go bad quite quickly (costing you time and re-alignment later). Basically, if any part of a tie-rod end needs replacing, do them all for the axle, as they all are likely due for it if one goes out. Both the inner and outer tie-rod ends have joints that can go loose over time. If you've let your car go for many years, you could end up with bad CV Joints and bad tie-rod ends. It's rare that both go bad at the same time, but a thorough inspection is best to be sure. Accidents and strong impacts like giant potholes *can* damage both systems.
Maybe your crankcase breather filter. More info here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX?14@@.ee922b2/1265#MSG1265
It shouldn't go on and still start as I understand it. The fuel pump inertia switch it designed to shut the fuel pump off in case of a fuel leak or an accident. Inside the switch is a ball that is held magnetly rolls forward and engages a swith to stop fuel flow. It can be reset by by a button the top of the switch. It is located in the left rear of the trunk compartment.
A bad connection, or excessive resistance on that circuit.
you have to take the alternator off and put the one you bought from the store on and start it and if it freezes you have to take it back
I did this myself a few weeks ago. I also strongly recommend using a spray cleaner and rags or a hose to clean the gunk and grease off the Alt. It's shot, yah don't have to worry about getting the insides dirty! Besides, when yah take it back and they open the box to look at it you can cheekily say yah cleaned it off for them! 1: Disconnect negative terminal on battery-this is a rule or you'll suffer a blown diode in the alt. when you plug one of the wires back in. Then you'll have $90 bucks of scrap metal. :-) 2: Put a 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet into the square hole on the tensioner and pull to front of car to loosen and remove belt or shove out of way then ease it back. 3: Remove the a/c hose bracket from the top of Alt. bracket. Tip: You may need to also unbolt the a/c hoses from the strut tower to wiggle them around for more room. 4: disconnect the electrical wires from the Alt. Two use those stupid little snap connectors, use a small screwdiver and carefully ease them off. The main one uses a small nut, that's another reason to disconnect the battery since that's a positive connection! :-) 5: (Very Important) Unbolt the Power Steering reservoir and try to shove it aside a few inches. I didn't do this, bolts were extremly rusty and afraid of breaking them I skipped this step. It was the cause of much cursing and swearing later since the wiggle room was then extremly limited, almost impossible. It was 50 degrees out tho, so that kinda kept me warm for awhile....:-) 6: Loosen, then remove the top and bottom mounting bolts. The bottom fastener has a sliding nut built into the Alt. bracket, I think mine was stuck in place so was the cause for some warm up cursing before trying to actually get the Alt. to slip up and out. :-) You may want something handy to pry the Alt. up and out. 7: If your lucky then you can grab the A/C hoses with your right hand and ease them aside as you use your left hand on the pulley to lift the Alt. up and out like that stupid picture in the haynes book. If not, your gonna be swearing a lot, especially if you didn't clean the gunk off and yah can't get a grip on the darn thing. :-) 8: Clean your hands off, your gonna need a break anyways. :-) 9: Now you can re-install everything in reverse order or any order you want, just connect the battery terminal last.
OOps forgot to add, this is for a 93 escort with 1,9 Liter engine. According to Haynes, the 1.8L alt. is mounted lower and after loosening bolts yah need to jack car up and remove a splash shield to remove the lower bolt, then remove Alt. 2.0L engines (coupe) need the coolant reservoir removed for wiggle room. 2.0L wagons and sedans, you need to free the Oxygen Sensor wiring harness from it's retainer on mounting bracket and unbolt power steering and A/C hose brackets from top of Alt. bracket, then remove mounting bolts.
In 5: above, in addition to unbolting the power steering reservoir, in the '94 Escort you should also remove the radiator overflow tank. Located to the left of the power steering reservoir, Two bolts attache it to the firewall. Removing the radiator overflow tank lets you move the power steering reservoir completely out of the way, allowing the alternator to be easily removed and then re-installed.
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