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most don't have a torque spec, just tighten till you cannot tighten anymore. -

Seperate answer different person, I would not recommend this. Torque specs are there for a reason and if you go to far you'll sheer the top of the bolts of or weaken them to the point when you actuate the clutch, bolt heads will sheer of inside the clutch housing your clutch will let go and you'll have metal flying around the bottom end of the motor - not good. The best thing you can do is, if you can't find the answer online contact a dealer or trusted ATV service center. If you have a torque wrench gradually increase the torque factor on it when trying to take the bolts of and when it clicks and your the bolt moves reduce by 1 and you have a pretty close spec. A close guideline but not scripture 100cc 5 -6 ft lbs 250 6-8 above that I don't know. I'm not a mech but I service my own equipment.

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Visit your local public library and check out a manual on small engine repairs that is applicable to your engine. You can find all different carburetors used on small engines and you can make a copy of the one that you need for your reference.

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I have a 1996 Jimmy and recently replaced the thermostat. I know the raditor drain plug is not too far under the coolant recovery tank, if not that, you may simply have a hole in the tank. From what I've heard, I would use caution using stop leak products, but I am far from an expert. The question is--- is it leaking or just always low on fluid. A leak in the tank is possible but another possibility is the head gasket is allowing compustion pressure to get into the cooling system and blowing it out---check to see if there are bubbles inside the tank when the engine is running ---a sure sign the latter is happening. Jeep recovery tanks often have cracks and leak where the hoses atttach.

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Mini Truck Supply has developed a technical resource website devoted to the owners of Japanese mini trucks. You may find the exploded view you're seeking on the new site by following the link below to be taken directly to the Suzuki Carry DD51T Diagrams.

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How to adjust the idle speed

If you have a carburetor, there is a crew on the driver side behind the throttle cable it usually has a spring on it if you turn it to the right it idles up left it idles down

If its a fuel injected motor idle is handled by the computer. There usually is a "base idle speed" around 800-1000 RPM. This normally doesn't need to be adjusted.

Have a look for carbon build up on the butterfly as well, this will influence idle too.

u can also adjust the cable there's two nuts that hold the the cable to the injection adjust one way to lower and the other way to raise

Also: check & tighten all hoses as even slightly leaking hoses raise & lower ur idle speed.

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It would be blue if it's got 2 cycle oil in it like for a weed eater or chainsaw

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Why would you want to? It is computer controlled, so I don't see how you could.

Well, there are a couple of things I can think of. First, your low RPMs might be caused by a bad fuel/air mixture, which is often the O2 sensor which is around 50 - 100 dollars. Another thing it might be is is bad spark plugs or wires. For what you're talking about, you probably don't want to adjust the RPM level (I take it you mean its idling RPMs) however you can do so. Since your car isn't carbureted, you would have to edit your ECU, which can be done with specialized computer programs installed on a laptop which is then wired into the ECU. Those run anywhere from 200 dollars on up.

Practically speaking, no you can't adjust the idle speed. More to the point, the problem is not simply a matter of misadjustment, and if you were to somehow effect an adjustment, that could very likely cause other problems. Something is broken/malfunctioning/disconnected/etc. The thing to do is find the problem causing the poor idle. When the problem is fixed, the idle speed will fall into line.

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Yes

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The idle speed and idle mixture are the first things to adjust and are very easy. If there is an off-idle stumble or a bog, you'll need to make adjustments to the accelerator pump and possibly the power valve to suit your engine. Here is a link to a Holley manual that explains it in detail: http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Carburetor%20Tech%20Info.pdf

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Is it possible you're getting carburetor icing? This is common in cooler, humid weather after maybe five or ten minutes. The power falls off, runs rough and chuggy, slowly chokes up, requires 15 minutes to thaw barrels out again. Just a possibility. Could be preheat hose or vacuum line/switch. Replacing the preheat hose is a cheap and easy fix.

Dirt and debris in the fuel tank, common on older vehicles that have had fuel system cleaner dumped in the tank. All the dirt gets broke loose and heads to the engine.

It could be that you need to replace the gas lines because cracks in the gas lines can allow water to get in. This causes the jets in the carb to gum up when it sits in the lines.

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your best bet is a haynes manual for that year of truck i got one and it shows the carbs completely torn apart and labeled im assuming its a rochester 4bbl? u can also call rochester up and ask for diagragms

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Many things can cause a snowmobile engine to back fire. Ignition coils ( spark plugs, coils) or water in fuel. Check these and maybe it will solve your problems.

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What engine??

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30 years of working on motorcycles, there is no exact setting what you do is turn the mix in until you hear the motor change, if it picks up rpm this is fine just keep turn until the rpms reaches its top then turn the idle screw down,

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first remove gas tank and seat for easy access. READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING. to save on carb cleaner do only one carb at a time first remove gas tank petcock and drain gas. most likely there is rust in it. trust me it will be your worst nightmare. clean petcock filter and inspect tank for rust, this most likely is your first problem. second, if you don't ride at least once a month aways turn gas off and let motor run until gas is used up in carbs. this might be hard on pistons but old un-leaded will ruin piston and vavles even faster. gas tank cleaning instructions will be at end nex't remove battery box and air cleaner housing wires attached to battery box should only fit one way, but you might want to tape and mark for later assembly now loosen all four clamps in front of carbs, don't remove clamps, only loosen,and unless the rubber is cracked and need replace don't loosen clamps from motor. [this will keep them in place when you re-install carbs]. then remove all 4 drain lines from carbs and leave in frame. now pull carbs loose, it might take a little extra help[big screwdriver] now that they are off place rags in holes to keep trash out of motor. now you can easily remove throttle and choke cables at this time DON'T separate carbs from linkage and brackets nex't you'll need about 10 steel coffee cans,9x12 bake pan,pipe cleanerscarb cleaner,and synthedic steel wool carefully remove bottom float bowls over newspaper or large clean surface and try not to break any gaskets unless you plan on buying a carb re-build kit place screws in one can,gaskets in another can. remove drain screws from bowls and place rubber 'o' rings in gasket can.[carb cleaner will destroy gaskets and rubber rings and seals] now place drain screws and bowls into separate cans label cans carb1,2,3,4, don't mix parts. fill can with bowls with carb cleaner until bowl is submerged carefully remove clip from float and place float and float jet in cleaner. nex't with large screwdriver unscrew brass jet housings and place in cleaner and let parts soak while you dis-assemble top of carbs. [ REMEMBER, DON'T PLACE RUBBER IN CLEANER] in 1979 you should have vaccum carbs remove screws and carefully remove. now inspect rubber diapham for cracks and holes. if rubber is good a little oil will soften them up. if they are bad or you cracked the gasket YOU WILL HAVE TO BUY A NEW CARB RE-BUILD KIT after this remove all top of carbs parts and place in separate cans and submerge in carb cleaner DON'T MIX TOP AND BOTTOM PARTS AND WATCH FOR SPRING JUPPING AWAY if you need to remove carbs from brackets and linkage, carefully don't mix parts it's best to use 9x12 pan now and soak all carbs at one time and let soak take pipe cleaners and clean all hole to remove all dirt and rust, with air compressor or canned air blow out all holes to make sure everything is clean, all other parts can be cleaned with steel wool.after cleaning take spray carb cleaner to remove any lint from pipe cleaners and steel wool and let dry after cleaning reverse dismantling and start re-assemble. after carbs are done replace choke and throttle cables remove rags and use alittle vasilene on rubber and carbs will slide on easier replace air filter box and install new air cleaner. then replace battery box and wires almost done, use small gas filter DON'T USE CLEAR GLASS FILTER, THEY ARE JUNK make sure gas flow arrow is going right direction. to clean gas tank get a hand full of marbles or ball bearing and go to the car wash.take alittle water and marbles put in tank and shake like heck this will loosen alot of the rust. dump out marbles and using engine cleanig or tire cleaning setting stick sprayer in tank and go and watch the grud come out rinse until water looks clean. use clean rags to soak excess water on the internet or local cycle savage a two part liquid gas tank liner. the three part cleaner system is not bad but the two part is better replace gas tank and your ready to go honda's won't run if the battery is bad and if the battery is good but low charge don't start car to jump off, your riding lawnmower has less amp and won't blow your fuses if you need pretty pictures and step by step mechanic instructions i recommend Haynes motorcycle manual #535 it covers all cb750& cb900 dohc fours from 1978-1984 I hope this helps superdave

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Hey Hugo==In the rebuild kit is a schematic of the carb. GoodluckJoe

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Could be any of these: Bad fuel pump, blown fuse or broken wire (if you have an electric pump), dirty fuel filter, blocked fuel line, fuel line leaking, no gas in the tank.

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Yes, it should. They are located on the lower front section of the carburator. These screws will only adjust the air/fuel ratio at idle. *On a holley 4160 vaccum secondary carb, the mixture screws are on the front metering block on each side. The transition slot to throttle blade relationship has to set/corrected before the mixture screws will be effective.

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Prevents explosions on inboard gasoline engines.

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Well first of all there is no carberator on that year of car, it is a throttle body. Get some throttle body cleaner and see if that works.

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cam lobes are wearing out that's why valves are not opening making back fire out carb. or your timing chain could be wore out. to check this remove distcap and watch the ignition rotor for movement while someone turns the bolt on the crankshaft oneway and then the other until it moves. Also if it has jumped time chect to make sure that when ta no1 top dead center that ingnition rotor is in correct location.

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I own one, you can adjust it. There are two adjustment screws, one for each jet, but they are hidden behind a seal, you have to drill through a plastic like cap that cover the adjustment screws, email me for more specific details.

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Carburetor jets don't usually get worn, they get clogged. And the signs are hard starting, sputtering, and slow acceleration. A carb rebuild is usually the best solution.

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1. Remove Air Filter and All Duct work attached to the carburetor.

2. Disconnect Fuel Line (Label to aide in reattachment)

3. Disconnect all Vacuum Hoses (Label all to aide in reattachment)

4. Disconnect all wires (if so equipped) (label to aide in reattachment)

5. Disconnect Choke linkage (if equipped with manual choke)

6. Disconnect Throttle Linkage

7. Unbolt Carburetor and remove from manifold

Reinstalling:

1. Obtain new gasket

2. Install new gasket onto manifold and carburetor onto gasket per manufacturers instruction

3. Torque carburetor bolts per manufacturers instructions

4. Reconnect Throttle Linkage

5. Reconnect Choke Linkage (if equipped with manual choke)

6. Reconnect all wires (This is where the labeling pays off)

7. Reconnect all vacuum hoses (Be sure to tighten clamps securely)

8. Reattach fuel line (Be sure to tighten clamp or fitting securely)

9. Replace Air filter and all duct work

10. Restart Vehicle to ensure proper operation.