In some instances people will make about 500 pesos per week which translates into somewhere around $47-$48 American dollars
if its h22a engine intake are 0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007in) ,exhaust 0.17-0.21(0.007-0.008)
At the factory we set the tappet clearance to 200 microns plus or minus 20 microns. This applies to all L4 and V6 engines. The Prelude is built in Japan, but I would assume that the settings are the same.
A easy way is to either crank the engine over with the starter motor, without the coil being plugged in until oil pressure is obtained.If rebuilding an engine and you want to prime before completion just squirt oil into the oil pickup while the engine is upside down and turn the pump drive to lube the internals. This will help get pressure faster when it comes time to prime with starter motor when engine is in vehicle.
Take the dash panel off under the steering column. There should be four 10mm bolts holding it in place. Then look reach up under the dash and your speedometer cable is connected to the left hand side of the instrument cluster when looking at the cluster. Towards the outside of the car if looking at the cluster from the bottom. The Cable is at least 3/8" thick and black. Grab it as close to the instrument cluster as possible and gently pull it out. Then open the hood and locate the cord underneath the windshield wiper motor. It may make it easier to remove the windshield wiper motor, but it's not critical. Find the cable and follow it. Keep following the cable through the engine bay disconnecting it from its little mounting points along the way until you get to the other end which is located on the back side of the transmission under the carbs. BEWARE the end that connects to the transmission has a small clip that holds it in place. Use a needle nose pliers or some other tool to remove this clip and place it in a safe place in case you need to use it again. Reach down and grasp the end as close to where it connects as you can and again gently pull on it until it comes out. Since both ends of the cable are now free, go back to the inside of the car by the instrument cluster and pull the cable all the way through the firewall from this side. Now that you have the old cable removed just reverse the process to install your new cable. The first time I replaced a speedometer cable on my 85 Prelude i lost my little clip and didn't install it. My speedometer still worked but it would stop working every once in a while for a mile or two. and good luck.
Tricks of the trade:
-Remove Wiper Motor for easy access to the firewall
-Remove air vent that is directly above speedometer cable in engine bay for easy access to that end of speedometer cable
-My speedometer cable broke directly at the end so to get the end out of the transmission, I used a magnet. The end popped right out.
-When ordering a new cable, measure the length of your existing one. I needed a 75" cable versus the 105" one.
-When putting the new cable in, you may have to finagle it to get it into the transmission. Keep working on it though, it'll go eventually.
Hey James==On a job this big you need guidance and the best is to get a shop manual from a parts store or if they don't have it try MOTORLIT.COM. Good luckJoe
Electronic manuals available on line http://www.alldatadiy.com price reasonable
Black Pepper is not good for your engine or radiator, so you should just get it fixed instead of taking the chance to mess up your engine.
What You Should do is get it fixed right away. Fix it the right way by getting it fixed by a professional because putting black pepper in it could make more of a disaster.
If your idle was fine and then just became high, don't adjust the idle control screw. Your problem would be indicative of another issue. Perhaps a vacuum leak. turn the idle control screw to the left ... no neither of those.....your are getting air that is accounted for by the mass air flow sensor....there for its either a) throttle plate not closing or b) idle air controller stuck open.
HELLO FELLOW 87 PRELUDE OWNER!! YOUR PCV VALVE IS LOCATED UNDER YOUR TWO CARBS.YOU CAN BARELY SEE IT BUT THERE IS A SMALL BLACK BOX,IT HAS A HOSE ON TOP OF IT GOING IN THE BOX;THAT IS WHERE IT IS.ONE END IN THE BLACK BOX, THE OTHER IN THE HOSE.
Your throttle body is probably dirty,The throttle body has a hose from the air filter housing attached to it,the throttle body is attached to the intake phlenum.Take the hose off(its rubber with a clamp on it).Do this with a cold engine, NOT RUNNING ! spray some carburetor cleaner inside the venturi and scrub it with a toothbrush,on the side of the throttle body there is a place where a cable goes into,twist the direction of cable to open the throttle plate(inside the throttle body),and continue to clean.Now put it all back together.What happens over a period of time is the Throttle body gets clogged with carbon and cannot breath at idle, the throttle plate when close(at idle)has a very small air gap and cant breath when dirty.If this does not cure your problem,then you will need to consider having your ais motor check.ais= automatic idle speed motor.For this you will have to take the throttle body off to replace it and the screws have been installed with locktight and are tricky to get out. ,I did not know what year or make of car, but its a common problem since the fuel injectors took the place of the carburetors.
I had this problem just two days ago. When the rpm goes below 1000 it stalls; visible black smoke is also observed at the exhaust when it's rev up. Try changing the air filter as this might be clogged up causing an inefficient air/fuel ratio. When there's not enough air going into the system complete combustion is not achieve causing this problem. Good luck. Pls let me know if it solve your problem.AnswerI had a similar problem. My 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee would run fine whenever I would accelerate, but once I took my foot off the gas, the RPMs would drop to zero and stall. Sometimes it would drop to zero than catch idle out low, but stall again later. I got a $300 tune up that did nothing. The problem turned out to be my IAC motor, or the Idle Air Control Valve which sold for $80 at the dealership ($30 at Autozone). If your car is doing this, replace this part! It would also stall whenever I took a turn slowly or tried to pull into a parking spot. ! Thanks to this forum, I diagnosed this as my problem, and I want to share with everyone else who may be experiencing this frustrating problem.
(addition by LucheLibre) My 87 Jeep Wrangler had the same problem. Did some research and found that older jeeps use very thin idle tubes mounted in the venturi. These can easily become clogged and fuel will back up and come out the main nozzles, causing the Jeep to run too rich and die. The solution is quite simple. Pull the air cleaner housing and choke plate off--remember to keep an eye on how the choke linkages are connected to the carb--unscrew the venturi and pull it out. You can't miss the tubes. Run a long, very thin wire or pin down the tubes and then reinstall everything in the reverse order. Your Jeep will literally be good as new. If the same problem comes up again, then your float bowl is junky and clogging the tubes again. Clean the bowl and change your fuel filter.AnswerI have a 1996 sunfire 2.2 litre engine that is doing the same thing, i have replaced fuel pump, plugs, wires, fule filter, air filter etc. AnswerThe fuel injectors get dirty and clogged. I add some fuel injector / carburetor cleaner to the gas tank and it usually clears the stalling at idle problem. AnswerI am experiencing the same problem with my 96 eclipse RS. I replaced the air filter- that didnt help, i added fuel cleaner- that did nothing- I have a fule filter but i don't want to waste the money if that's not the problem id rather return it and get my money back! So let me know what works for you guys experiencing the same problem! Thanks a million! AnswerMy 1999 PONTIAC Montana would stall intermittently when I would remove my foot from the accelerator and slow down. Dealer replaced the IAC motor and cleaned out the throttle body but the problem persisted. I disconnected the connector to the throttle motor and the air intake dampers and bent the contacts to improve contact mating. Frequency of stalling was greatyly reduced. Next I will clean the contacts to remove oxidation.GM uses cheap tin plated contacts. Answeri had the same problem as the 96 eclipse, but with me 91 Mazda... the main problem was the air hose so we duck taped it up until we buy a replacement. a little bt later the whole engine went bad and the head was warped and had a few cracks. Had that fixed and it ran great, then we started seeing whitish blue smoke from the exhaust... we're going to replace a vacuum modulator and a seal that a friend just added to the car after breaking the new one. We had also replaced several things first and tried the fuel cleaner. Nothing seemed to work or it would run okay for a mile then start up with its bad again. Good luck. AnswerIdle control valve is not working. If it is a fuel injection system, check the fuel pressure controller also as these go hand in hand. AnswerThe "automatic idle speed motor" may also be known as the "Throttle Position Sensor," but it could also be the "Idle Intake Valve." The latter would be the one I would look at, since it's the one that's taking in air while the car is idling, i.e---sitting still with the motor running. If it's clogged, your car will die when it's not requesting power from the engine to accelerate.
I've never known an "automatic idle speed motor" to be considered a throttle position sensor. An "idle speed motor" is just another name for an "idle air control valve" or "IAC". I've seen this concern many times. Most of the time it was caused by gunk becoming lodged inside the IAC passage. That's one of the easiest things to inspect at least.AnswerHave you checked all the corroborator vacuum hoses. That sounds incredibly the same as the problem I experienced with a Honda I owned once, the solution a mechanic showed me was to use a pair of needle nose pliers and slightly clamp on each hose at both ends ( without clamping hard enough to break the hose ) until the engine would idle normally. That said once the problem vacuum hose is located you would merely replace the hose, about a .99$ fix at autozone. Take the hose in with you to compare. Tell them what its for and the specifics to make sure the hose will last.
Another possibility, a stuck open or sticking EGR valve would also cause those symptoms.
Can you hear the fuel pump pressurize and stop when it starts normally? Listen for a whine and stop when you turn the key but do not start it. If when it doesn't start for you, listen before trying to turn it over... if you get silence, replace the main relay which is what causes the fuel pump to pressurize the system right before starting. Easy replacement but you have to get the main relay from the dealer. The older Preludes had a problem with the Main Relay due to a car's heating and cooling which developed cracks in the little solder joints on the little PC board. The relay is a little pricey (less than $150) but can be alot cheaper than a new computer. The car's computer is very reliable. Returned computers to manufacturers, claiming to be bad, were bad only one-tenth OF ONE PERCENT of the returns. That means only 1 in a thousand computers were actually defective. The technicians will blame the computer for a lot but in fact it may be a profitable charge and a way for them to get out from under the position of not knowing what is causing the problem. OR, they can replace a $60 relay and then charge for a new computer too. You never know the difference because they fix the "little" problem, charge you for a "big" problem and when the new computer is replaced...it seems to be the fix that was required.
...a small addition to the above post.
You could buy a soldering iron and fix any of the joints which are cracked or have white rings around them.
Crawl under the steering wheel, locate the relay. Pull off the orange clip, use a flathead to carefully release the grey clips from the relay itself.. See if any of the joints on the circuit board have cracks or white rings. Use the iron and a small bead of solder to repair it. If you don't have steady hands or aren't used to working with it, find someone. It's about $15 vs $60-100. It's worked for my prelude, and it's still starting reliably.
try the12volt.com i know for a fact thay have one Try http://www.ahdol.com/ for the diagram.
"Interference engine" means pistons will hit valves if the timing belt breaks. A high-lift cam, which pushes the valves closer to the pistons, combined with a high-compression engine, which pushes the pistons closer to the valves, equal an engine that is either always an interference engine or just an interference engine if there's enough carbon and schmutz on the valves and piston faces. Sometimes you break a timing belt, put a new one on and all is well. Sometimes you break one and wind up having to change valves and pistons.
As far as I'm concerned, head gaskets are inexpensive enough that it won't hurt you to pull the head and inspect the valves and pistons if you're changing a broken timing belt. Not only will you KNOW the engine will start when you put it back together, it'll make setting the crank to TDC much easier.AnswerI just had the timing belt replaced on my '89 Honda Accord it broke while I was going down the expressway. My mechanic told me I was one lucky guy as it is an interference engine and he expected at least one bent value but non were bent. My advice is to replace it before it breaks. Its a $350 job but if you break it while driving you can add another $100 for the tow plus another hundred or so to determine if there are bent valves. If there are bent valves the price goes way over $1000. I had less than 80,000 miles on this belt.
Just a PS. this is NOT an interference engine. You will not have bent valves, damaged pistons or any other such problem. Camshaft and Crankshaft can be rotated individually without a problem. I have replaced many Honda belts, both before and after breakage.
the "interferance" , i don't know where you guys get that but that has no bearing on bent or non bent valves on this model. Interferance meaning the type of belt system, like the F series is interferance, because there is a balance shaft belt that turns 2 balance shafts ofn that particular engine , same as the H series. Now talking about being square , under square and over square , now that's more of a preferance of bending valves or not as Honda has always been larger bore or almost equal bore and hort strokes, making for engine capable of high rev,s these are under square engine. The possibility of bending a valve is high. But on these A20 engines as in these models with 3 valves , it was designed that if the belt broke the cam would and always usually turned to a "neutral" position to where most the valves were closed or near a closed position as not to bend valves.
Kongkit Raggan-SupatanamponAnswerKongkit, "interference engine" has nothing to do with the belt system. If you've got an interference engine--Hondas do--the valves are close enough to the tops of the pistons that they'll hit if the timing belt breaks. A noninterference engine, like you'll find in a Toyota or a VW, has enough clearance that it won't hit.
Given that, in reality the Honda engine isn't a "true" interference engine. They gave just enough clearance between the valves and the pistons that, assuming there's not a lot of buildup on the valves, you won't hit if the timing belt breaks. That's a really big assumption, and Honda is afraid of lawsuits: if someone was running an ill-maintained, crudded-up engine that Honda claimed was noninterference, broke the timing belt and bent four or five valves, their first stop would be a lawyer: "But they SAID it was a noninterference engine!" They cover their asses by claiming the engine is interference. This way you can be happy if you break a timing belt and not bend any valves, and you won't sue if you do bend a few.
If it was my car, I would pull the head and look. If you managed to bend a valve or hole a piston, it'll be very obvious. If you didn't bend one? You needed a new head gasket anyway.
to be safe you should change the belt every 50,000 to 90,000 miles
Not if the previous owner just did it 10,000 miles ago! When was it last changed? If you know anything about your car, who you got it from, or better yet, where it was maintained, possibly they can tell you when the last one was done. Honda dealers keep good computer records, and you can go visit or call the service department there, take your VIN, and they can tell you whether they've seen your car before and what has been done to it and when.
I just took one off at a junk yard. It's not obvious...... All you have to do though is grab the rear view mirror with both hands, and yank it down, and toward the back seat, fairly hard. The mirror and the mount both come off, with a screw that stays in the mirror bracket. There's also a bracket that stays in the roof. Now you have access to the screws in the bracket in the roof. Now you can remove the cover that came off with the mirror, and also remove the bracket in the roof. It's fairly obvious how to put it back. You put the mirror and the bracket together, and then screw them in to the roof. Now you can snap the cover back on, and you're done!
I had the same problem with my 1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88. Replaced fuel pump and Ignition control module. So far, there is no cut off. You probably have no good Igition module.
same thing happened to my 94 LeSabre. It happened from time to time with no "Service Engine Soon" indication. Eventually I got the indication, it was the EGR valve.
Does it start right back up when ever it cuts off? check the battery terminals first, jiggle them while the engine is running if that didn't afect the engine, it sounds like the throttle position sensor is faulty. change it.Best ChoiceYou want to change:
Crankshaft Sensor, Starter Pack, And the Fuel Pump.
1. pop your hood2. look behind your headlight for the top-most bulb. disconnect the wire harness for that bulb.3. there will be a rubber grommit covering the bulb, remove that next and set aside.4. you will have to really lean over the car to see what I'm talking about on this step. inside the headlight housing you will see a metal clip holding in the bulb. you free the bulb, press down the metal clip and slide it to the side. it should swing open now, allowing you to remove the bulb. NOTE: pay attention to the way the bulb was sitting in the housing! it will help you put the next bulb in.5. replace the bulb with new one. wear gloves when you do this, any oil from your hands will create a hot-spot later when you turn the bulb on.6. swing the retaining clip back over the bulb, press it down, and slide it back to the holding position. again, you may have to lean over the car to see what you're doing.7. replace the rubber grommit. it doesn't have to be new.8. reconnect the wire harness.9. repeat steps for other headlight.
depending on the mods you have done to your car, you may have to remove some parts to have enough room to work in there. also, hyperwhite bulbs tend to blow out VERY fast. mine only lasted about 3 months before they went out. my girlfriends lasted 5 months, and my friends lasted 2 months. oem bulbs last the longest!
Yes, however the procedure will involve a lot of customization.
the Fan motor will keep running fort a short time after the car is shut off. the motor actually gets hotter after it is shut off so the fan cools it for a few minutes before cutting off. Actually, on all the mid 80s 300zx engines, there is a fuel injector cooling fan that directs cooling air on the injectors for a specific amount of time after the car has been run at normal operating temps and then shut off. Is your car a turbo z? If so then the fan that comes on is the fan that cools off the turbo after the key is shut off. Maybe you have an aftermarket fan set up for the air conditioner, but there again they usually come on while idling with the air on, but they generally shut off when the key is turned off. The fan is not used for cooling the turbocharger. The turbocharger itself is watercooled and does not have a need for a fan. The electric fan is for cooling the fuel injectors as mentioned in the previous post.
Hey Pete==Have the brake booster checked out. The diaphragm may have a leak. GoodlukcJoe
just took it out for a test drive and it only happens when car is at operating temp not when cold any ideas?
try flushing out the fuel system. stuff builds up in there and it doesn't run as clean and as well as it should. also anylost power the car had wil be restored and your gas milage should improve. i have a 92 and it did the same thing
jayHeadlineIt's either a vacuum leak (check all hoses) or it's probably the Idle Air Control Motor (or IAR it's sometimes called) needing cleaning. These cars and other J-body cars too, are known for this problem, in fact not just GM cars either. My 92 3.1 V6 Sunbird does the same thing about every 5000-6000km, maybe even less. It's a little motor (usually black) with a 3 wire connector on it right near the Air Filter hose and throttle body and it has 3 vacuum lines in a row coming out the other side of the plenum it's attached to. A Haynes or Chilton manual will not show you the location of this motor and when you look it up and it usually says to take it to a mechanic because it needs to be hooked up to a computer. It doesn't in most cases (just disconnect the battery and reconnect when job is finished to reset the computer so it can "re-learn".) Use degreaser or Isopropyl alcohol or lighter fluid (something powerful that evaporates) there is a special spray too that my mechanic uses, anyway, submerge the motor, and don't worry about submersion it's a sealed motor anyway, shake out the excess (you'll see how dirty the excess fluid is.) wipe off and let cleaner evaporate/dry (unscrew the pintle and spring before cleaning so the cleaner gets right down in there, clean the spring and pintel too while your at it). Then reattach it to it's plenum (make sure to put the rubber O-ring back onto the neck of the motor)! If that doesn't work, take off the plenum the motor came off of, clean it and put back in with a new paper gasket (the original one is plastic and tends to get brittle from heat, mine broke apart in my hands after removal). Line the whole gasket with a thin layer of high-temp silicone for a good air-proof seal. If the motor is faulty (you can test it by unscrewing the motor out of it's plenum and turning the key, then turning on the air conditioning. A/C causes the pintel to move in and out, although I guess anything requiring more air like revving the engine would work too. if it's faulty, get a new one, they are usually only about $20. Don't worry if it does this "erratic idling" a little again at first after cleaning, the computer is just re-learning and adjusting accordingly. You will notice (on the RPM needle) that when the idle goes wacko again, the computer and motor together will "flick" the RPMs back down to where they are supposed to be (I use the word flick because the needle will literally snap back to about 600-800 rpm when the engine starts to rev. to high or too low). This is how you know it's fixed. After the computer learns for a few drives and finds a happy medium, your idling at a stop light or when applying the brakes should be perfect. The only difference between this method and a mechanic is there is almost no computer re-learning (they adjust it to the happy medium by computer instead of letting the computer retrain itself.) The main thing is the little motor is clean and that's the most important part. (Well, for a little while anyway, till it gets dirty again!) Isn't this what air-filters are supposed to filter out? :)
You need to remove the air filter box. That should give you access to the alternator. this is true, some of the work you will have to do from unde the car.
Many speedometer shops do it routinely. If it off significantly, they change the little gear in your trans that turns the cable. It's od determines ratio which determines what you see. I have heard a digital is easier but no adjustment can be made until it is determined how far off yours is by running on a dynomometer type machine. If tire size is close to original, discrepancy is negligible.
ummm...if you mean the OBDII it's located on the passenger side foot well. There is a concealed carpeted panel that pops off.
Anything is possible but this is not feasable as it will cost too much. Trade cars.
Both feasible and easy to do. Just locate a donor car in a junkyard and get the transmission, flywheel, clutch cable, and clutch pedal assembly. Then remove your automatic and bolt all the manual stuff in. At most you will have to cut a hole in the floor for the Standard transmission shifter. If you have mechanical experience and another car to drive while yours is down then have at it, otherwise find someone that does have some experience and supply them with the parts needed.
its possible just you're gonna have to take your time cause you're gonna have to swap your ecu with a prelude that was an automatic and you will have change alot of things like you master cylinder will not be needed the clutch paddle and of course the tranny wouldn't be needed either but your best is to just buy a new car cause its gonna cost you out the tail just to swap it from manual to automatic
I don't know about the newer ones, but 88-91 prelude 2.0SI's only need 87 octane, as per manufacturer specification. The compression ratio is 9:1, so 87 is fine. The only reason you would want to use a higher octane than specified is if you have altered the engine in a way that causes higher combustion temperature, i.e raised compression.
Depending on your car this is pretty easy.
First you need to raise the rear end of the vehicle about 24 inches and rest it on sturdy jack-stands. (Never work under any vehicle supported only by its jack.) Make sure you are on firm ground or a concrete slab so the jack-stands will not shift. Choke the front tires so they can't roll when the rear end is up in the air. Jack up the rear of the vehicle on one side and place a stand under a solid part of the chassis but out of the way of your work. Lower the vehicle onto the stand, making adjustments as the stand takes the whole weight of the vehicle. Repeat for the other side. For safety, put the spare tire under the tire of the side you're working under, in case of a jack-stand failure.
There's probably going to be a U-bolt or some kind of piece holding the intake side of the muffler to the pipe. I would recommend first going to Auto Zone or another parts dealer and telling exactly what kind of car you have.
Generally the people that work there will actually go and look under your car and see for themselves. There are different size openings on mufflers so you MAY want to measure both holes on the muffler just to have that extra info. You probably wont need it. Mufflers usually cost less than $20 or so.
Once you get it home just take that U-bolt off, slide the old one out, slide the new one on, clamp the u-bolt back and your done. There may be another bracket that keeps the very back of the muffler off the ground so that will need to be put back also. You may need a new tailpiece for your muffler if its rusty. This is one of those simple repairs that is really fundamental. I have seen some crazy ones that have housings over them and the exhaust, but that is a different story.
I had an '86 Accord, the computer was under the driver's seat.
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