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It is highly likely that the fuel gauge is not working because the "sending unit" is not sending the fuel gauge information about fuel in the fuel tank. The "sending unit" is to be changed out at the the top of the gas tank (under the back seat). Accessing the unit should be done with the battery disconnected, unless blowing up your garage, home, your neighbors' houses, and, of course, yourself, is part of your plan. With the battery completely disconnected (I prefer to remove it for safety), you can unplug the electrical connector, unscrew the retaining screws, and pull out the fuel sending unit. The new one is inserted, screwed on, the electrical connector attached, the seat replaced, battery hooked up and ... WHOILA! The gas gauge is working, or, you are seeing satellite images of the space station. No. Seriously, the sending unit is the usual culprit in causing the gas gauge to not "read" properly, or even "read" at all. With some gas gauge failures, the sending unit tells the gas gauge that there is less fuel than there really is, and sometimes, the reverse, more fuel.

yes they are the same the 2.0 l4 fuel injected

Depends, I know they have 2.0 and 2.1 for the 91 prelude.

add an air intake and full exhaust system if you havent yet done that

The caliper might be sticking

The valves could hit the top of pistons & ruin the engine.You should have this replaced a.s.a.p.

There are many possible reasons. You need to start by checking-

1. coolant level- If it is low, refill and recheck. There might be a coolant leak and you can get the system pressure checked, could be a blow head gasket. Coolant has a smell that is unique, if you smell something check for drip marks under the car after being parked. A leak from the radiator, hoses, temp sensor will usually have a residue/color stain.

2. check to see if the fan is working- a blow fuse/relay/motor if it is electric. If it has a clutch, check for clutch leaking fluid. It should have resistance when manually spinning when the engine is off.

3. check for debris in the grill radiator, blockage will reduce air flow.

4. Is the check engine light on? Have the codes read, it can diagnose sensor faults, misfires, blow head gasket.

5. Has the thermostat ever been replaced? with the engine warm, check the coolant return hose to radiator is warm, be careful if you have a mechanical fan. If the engine is at or above normal operating temperature and the hose is not hot the thermostat is stuck closed.

== == Obviously, unless you have many dollars to waste on useless modifications to a 14 year old car, put in the EXACT SAME ENGINE. That way everything will fit and go together properly.

Isn't easy- I replaced mine about a year ago. Took about three hours, the whole front bumper has to come off. If you keep up with all of the screws and have patience- shouldn't be a problem.

I'll second that, had a look at mine to clean around them and its one of those jobs i wish i never started. Checked here to see if i missed something but its the only way it seems.

Probably a sticking lifter; put in a can of RISLONE every time you change oil for the next few times; that should do it if it is just a minor problem. A chirping noise can also be a defective drive belt. I haven't heard of a chirping noise before, but I've heard of lifter tapping. If it's just some light lifter tapping, add some Lucas oil stabilizer next oil change. This is really good stuff that adds extra lubricants and protectants to the oil for better engine performance and durability. Adding this to your oil should take out any light lifter noise or tapping. I run this in my 94 Z along with full synthetic Mobil 1. They make the Lucas oil stabilizer in synthetic as well. Hope this helps you out.

The thermostat is located in the engine compartment on the passenger's side near the distributor cap. The thermostat is located in a cylindrical housing containing three or four wired sensors. The housing is connected to the cylinder head to the left of (behind) the distributor (looking in from passenger's side). There is a 1-1/4" black hose going from the end of the thermostat housing (housing cover) to the upper radiator. That is the easiest indicator to locate the thermostat housing. The labor time is about an 90 minutes if all goes well. The housing cover can be removed with the hose attached by removing the two hex bolts with a #10 socket. I broke a "stuck" bolt on this housing trying to get it out. NEVER use a drill-like device called an "E-Z out" because they don't work. I had it so botched up, I had to buy a whole new housing ($80) just because the last guy didn't coat the screw threads with thread sealant. Believe me, use thread sealant. 1.)Buy a new thermostat (~$30) before starting and notice only one side has a spring. 2.)Buy a new "upper" radiator hose/hose clamps (~$20). (Optional-it's pretty easy and no leaks this way.) 3.)RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (ie. Permatex Item # 22071) 4.)Anti-seize Lubricant (ie. Permatex Item # 81343) 5.)Penetrating oil to loosen screws. I noticed that the aftermarket thermostats have a smaller hole for coolant to pass through than the original/dealer "stats" do. So I bought an original equipment thermostat (~$45) because I HATE temperature problems -- they affect everything from the engine to the tranny to the A/C. But it's definitely OK to go to Kragen or Autozone if you want. Before beginning, spray the thermostat-cover bolts with penetrating oil about an hour before starting the project. Best if you can spray them just after the engine is turned off and they're still hot/warm so the penetrant will work better. Next, you MUST drain some of the coolant first or you'll have a BIG MESS. After you drain some of the coolant (1/2 gal./couple of qts.), put some rags under the thermostat-cover/hose junction and remove the two bolts. Pull the housing cover off. After the housing-cover/hose assembly is off, the thermostat is easily seen -- hopefully you bought a replacement "stat" before starting so you know what to look for. You'll see the "pointy side" sticking out and you just pull on that and the stat will come out -- look out 'cause there will be some coolant leaking out from behind the thermostat when you remove it (that's why you stuff some rags underneath the work area). Carefully scrape the ridge the "stat" sits in to remove any deposits interfering with the new "stat's" ability to seat correctly. Wipe out and clean the area. Install the new thermostat with the spring side in and the pointy side out towards the radiator hose. Clean off the thermostat-cover of old gasket material and apply the RTV Silicone to the interface area of the thermostat-cover. Install the housing cover/hose assembly with the two bolts treated with thread sealant (i.e. anti-seize lube). Don't crank the screws down hard (10 ft-lbs.) and refill the radiator. Check for leaks. If you decide to change the upper radiator hose before refilling, the hoses can be a little stubborn as they get stuck on the metal nipples. You may have to twist/rotate the hose back and forth with a large pliers (gently -- don't tear up the rubber hose) to loosen it and then you can pull it off. Use new hose clamps and put them on the new hose before sliding the hose over the radiator or thermostat-cover nipple. I like to put a THIN FILM of multi-purpose grease on the nipples to prevent the hose sticking and it's easier to slide on. The hose clamps should be not be located on top of the nipple's "shoulder". Rather, the clamps should be positioned just behind the nipple's shoulder to get a leak-resistant grip on the nipple. Don't overtighten the clamps (if the clamp can't be rotated, it's about right) -- tighten later when the hose is hot, if leaking. The hose's fit and the clamp are enough to prevent leaks. You'll know the thermostat is working properly by checking the upper radiator hose after the engine is running about ten minutes. The radiator fan usually comes on twice during this period. The thermostat will open when the engine coolant is getting hot (~135F) and the thermostat will allow coolant to flow into the radiator through the upper hose. You'll feel the hose get hot (careful). This also happens to be the way to check if the thermostat is not working properly. Sometimes a defective thermostat will allow water all the time (engine takes a long time to warm up) OR it never opens and the hose is cool and the engine stays hot.

Hi I had this problem. make sure your water level in the radiator is full,because there is a sensor kelvin

It is located on the top radiator line where it connects to the block. There should be 2 bolts that secure it to the block.

Due to unforseen consequences, you should really let a professional do your brakes. If you still insist, then, You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

As another poster mentioned, the same ones from a 94 explorer worked but with the Amp you need to hook the dk blue wire on the 8x1 plug into the blue/white wire coming out of your new stereo. Otherwise you get no sound. Its usually labeled remote wire.I would not do this without a harness adapter kit like a stingpro F-5511 or a merta 5511. Save you tons of work for the $10 you spend. Radio 12v lt. green/yellow + radio harness Radio Ground black or black/lt. green - radio harness Radio Ignition yellow/black + radio harness Radio Illumination lt. blue/red (dimmer) + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on dk. blue + radio harness Power Antenna N/A LF Speaker +/- orange/lt. grn - lt. blue/wht +,- radio harness or amplifier RF Speaker +/- white/lt. grn - dk. green/org +,- radio harness or amplifier LR Speaker +/- pink/lt. green - tan/yellow +,- radio harness or amplifier RR Speaker +/- orange/red - black/white +,- radio harness or amplifier

my 1988 4ws Honda prelude idles low at 600 rpm

Provided the '97 Prelude is a base model, then yes it is possible to swap in an H22a variant. The Prelude Type SH motor is different as the ATTS unit is connected to the motor. So, the only compatible H22a motors would be one from another Type SH, or the JDM Honda Prelude Type S motor.

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a introduction music before the singing

4ws yes, 2ws I believe does as well.

the s has a sohc 8v engine with 133 bhp and the si is dohc 158hp with 156lb/ft prob afew extra electrics in the si i would think too

On a manual transmission there should be a flush plug that will directly accept a1/2" ratchet less the socket. Remove this to check manual transmission fluid and to add it.

This plug can usually be found on the passenger side of the transmission just being the tire.

It does not.