160 hp stock

Somewhere around 500$ if done at a garage.

You need to remove the exhaust system which is below the oil pan. Once the exhaust is removed, you have to remove engine brace which will be the way. Also, you have to remove one transmission bolt to get the dust cover off There are 10- threaded bolt/screw (phillips #2), 2- 10mm bolts in front of pan and two #10 nuts in the rear. You have to remove the dust cover for the flywheel to access the 10mm nuts. The transmission and engine mount makes it difficult to remove the two nuts but with patience, they can be removed. The oil pan does not use a felt gasket but silicone gasket maker. Use the black Permtex.

hey hey

Ignition timing, timing belt/chain, distributor cap... who knows without looking at it?

It has a transaxle, there is no separate differential fluid.

Behind the timing belt cover

Febraury 31st, 1892.

try a new hazard switch. the power runs through this switch, and sounds as if it is burnt. Good luck.

The H22 engine is aluminum, with steel Cylinder sleeves... The steel they used is too hard (and,or) the piston rings are a softer steel, so after wear and tear (Especially at higher RPM's) , The rings wear down too much and allow oil to pass through as engine is running... Oil lost is really going into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust pipe. I recently bought a 1998, with 108,000mi. and It loses a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. This is a pretty normal issue with this car and engine, especially if not "well-maintained".

85 Lude, old school cable clutch... No hydraulics (fluid)

depends on the year, my 96 and 97 are located on the drivers sdie fender well and have 2 large plugs going into them

behind the plastic in the passenger side foot space on the right (behind the light) there are 3 screws holding the plastic on

Because its a chevy!!

Agreed. Bad ground from body control module (bcm) kills the relay switch. Around $400 at the dealer 4 years ago.

peace89

Bring to a shop that has an ABS scanner to either determine problem or clear codes

http://www.honda-prelude.com/downloads/literature

BEHIND THE RADIO.

to the left of the engine under the rear radiator hose. factory starter will have a green housing and its prett easy to get to. http://www.prelude3.com/Engine/Engine.jpg (pic from chris.nl website. this guy is building one sharp lude) here is a pic showing it on a removed engine.

The old battery should have the type written on the label under all the crud that has built up over the years.

It should be under the dash and takes 5 mins to swap out, matushita RZ-XXXX it is called the "main relay" which does both the fuel pump and ignition. Assuming this is fuel injected. Just replaced mine in my 86 Si and it fixed problems with the pump not coming on all the time when starting. $70 from the dealer.

Not sure about your '93 Prelude's procedure for accessing the instrument panel lights. I can speak in general, so you have an idea of what may be the best way to proceed. The instrument panel lights are located behind the dashboard which will have to be removed -- usually. Sometimes, they can be accessed from under the dash in some vehicles -- but this is becoming a rarity. The dealerships must love this, $500 to change a $2.00 bulb. Most dashboards have air bag circuits that have to be CAREFULLY disconnected (see a manual). Sometimes there are 12 or more studs that hold the dashboard to the frame. Sometimes the dashboard is separated into halves and you only have to remove one side. AS FOR MY PRELUDE, it says to disconnect the battery, loosen and lower the steering column assembly, remove the steering column covers, and then: '79 - '82 there a four screws to remove the bezel (clear plastic cover), remove the cluster's retaining bolts and before pulling the cluster out, reach behind it and disconnect the speedometer cable at the back. FOR '83 AND LATER: Remove the instrument cluster switches first by inserting the blade of a flat screwdriver in the groove in the base of each switch so you can pull the switches out and disconnect their wire harnesses. Remove the dashboard lower panel. On some models it may be necessary to lower the steering column for access. Then remove the instr. cluster bolts to remove the cluster. On later models the two rear screws are located under caps at the back of the housing which can be pried out with a flat bladed screwdriver for access. Remove the instrument cluster retaining screws squeeze the tab on the speedometer cable to speedometer collar and detach the speedometer from the cable. Pull the cluster out, unplug the wiring harness connectors and lift the cluster from the vehicle. Be sure you replace the lamps with THE EXACT replacements so they're not too dim or so bright that they burn out in a couple of months.

If the engine has cooled down, then yes, the high idle occurs first and then as the engine becomes more efficient at burning fuel, the engine slows down. The onboard computer gets information from the two oxygen sensors located in the exhaust. The sensors report to the computer how well the engine burns the fuel and how well the catalytic converter "cleans" what is burned. When the engine is started, the engine is burning less efficiently at lower RPM's. The computer can tell this from the data it receives from the oxygen sensors (and to a lessor extent, the other sensors as well), so the computer is programmed to add more fuel because while cold, the engine runs more efficiently at higher RPM's until the engine is warmed up. This fast idle is about 1750 RPM's and will drop to about 750 RPM's when the engine is burning fuel efficiently (and cleanly). There is some debate about whether a vehicle should be warmed up before driving. Some say the vehicle's computer compensates for the inefficiency of a cold engine, and therefore, can be driven immediately. Further, this idea of driving immediately is thought to be good for the engine by heating it up more gradually and therefore avoiding the problems of damage due to sudden temperature changes. However, there is a line of thinking that the engine was designed to operate at a "warmed" temperature range with consistency, performance, and long life. Indeed, the smog equipment operates better at higher temperatures, and that makes the engine run more efficiently, using less fuel, and costing less money. The amount of waste of a cold engine is 80% higher than with an engine that is warmed up. Furthermore, an engine that is running at high RPM causes the transmission stress when engaged, not to mention the brakes. And the transmission is VERY EXPENSIVE to repair. Since the engine was designed to run at warmer temperatures, I would recommend warming up the engine for about 2 - 3 minutes before engaging the transmission. I do not recommend letting the engine get "hot" though, as this can cause problems when done repeatedly. If the engine was warmed up and shut down for a short time, upon restart, the RPM's probably will not rise more than the normal 750 or 800 RPM's unless subjected to subzero temperatures. Most likely, the normal temperature for your engine, when warmed up, is just before the half-way point (about midway). Bottom-line recommendation, on a cold day (