186 60 14. I'm running 165/80r15 Kumhos on my 97 Escort wagon. I found the 15" rims at the local wrecking yard. The tires clear the front strut towers by 1/2". This setup gears up my car 10 percent thus improving gas mileage. The OEM tires are 23" high and these are 25 5/8". you could go with P185/65r15's as well and that would gear you up 5 percent and those are 24" tall.

In order to remove the key ignition switch on Ford's, the ignition must be in the run position and the holding pin depressed. Without the key, a locksmith is your best bet. Keys can be generated by code, try-out keys, the ignition can be drilled and removed, or in worse case, can be forced to the run position. Trying any of these without knowing exactly what you are doing will likely result in damage to column.

Sorry it's probably not the answer you were looking for.

Best Regards

Most Fords require a key to remove the ignition lock cylinder to replace it. HOWEVER the 1995 ingnition assembly can be removed regardless of having a key or not. You have to remove the stering wheel, multifunction switch (can be unscrewed and pulled over steering hub and moved aside without cutting wire ties or disconecting). then remove 4 steering column bolts allow steering column to drop. On top of steering column there is a collar with two rivet looking fasteners holding the lock assembly to the column, these are actually screws. Use a dremel tool with a cutting disk to slot the tops of the screws to allow a standard screwdriver to be used. Out comes the entire assembly and can be replace for about $130 for a new assembly. You can also replace the lock cylinder for about $25, but you have to remove the two roll pins holding it in place, this requires drilling them out and it is a royal pain. I think they are hardened steel, or stainless either way they eat drill bits and time. With a new set up your door keys will be different from the ignition, but without an ignition key to begin with, I would assume you need to replace the door locks also, you can buy a set so at least all of the doors will use the same key.

Remove - battery cable

Raise and support vehicle

Remove wiring at top of starter

Remove starter mounting bolts

Remove starter

It's the 100 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box by the battery.

for me it was a bearing that was going. unfortunately i did not find this out until it broke and took my engine with it. So i would have someone listen when you shut off the engine to see if you can pin point where it is coming from. Mine was the tensioner pully of the timing system. ANSWER for lindseycm:

my car does the same thing. ford dealership said it was a loose drive shaft and not worth fixing. I have a 99 zx2 that was doing the same thing. It drove me nuts. Turned out to be the crankcase breather filter, dealer only part, about 15 bucks. It is located on drivers side on top, near valve cover and air breather tube. Has two vaccuum lines hooked to it. Try disconnecting to see if noise stops. If the noise stops, replace it. Dealers don't normally stock this, so you may have to wait a day. Good luck.

If none of the dash lights are working, then it won't be the cluster. You are going to have a problem with one of the fuses, a switch, or wiring. Does it have running/tail lights? If it is just one bulb, then,

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

With a hammer, not a joking. hit it on the back side of the top out, but please take the tire off first.

Better solution:

First take off the two screws.These are the countersunk holes with Phillips head screw. These screws are holding the drum.

The brake drum has one or two threaded holes. These are not the countersunk holes with Phillips head screw that hold the drum to the wheel flange but are in the other one or two spaces between the lug bolt holes. On my ZX2, these holes are threaded for a 1/4 inch bolt (1/2 inch wrench), 16 threads per inch. Thread a bolt at least one inch long into each hole and tighten the bolt. If your car has only one hole as does mine, tighten the bolt to apply pressure to one side of the drum, then use a pry bar to ease the other side of the drum off. The lug nut wrench with the jack makes a good pry bar for this.

Hydraulic clutches use a slave cylinder mounted at / on the transmission to operate the clutch lever. It has a bleeder valve much like a brake wheel cylinder or brake caliper. It typically shares the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir. Use penetrant to minimize the risk of shearing the bleeder valve. Once the valve is working, use the same sequnce to bleed as for brakes. Depress the clutch, open the valve, close the valve, release the clutch, repeat till clear fluid (no old fluid which is YELLOw) and no air, flows. REFILL THE RESERVOIR as needed.

Replace it.

replace it

Loosen the clamp bolts on the cable. If it is shifting down to a lower gear when the throttle is at max it is all right. If it is shifting down too early, lengthen the cable adjustment. If it is shifting down too late or not at all shorten the cable adjustment.

no, the valves are far enough away from the pistons for this not to be a problem You will be dead in the water where it breaks and need a tow. As a 'repair', expect to pay somewhat more for replacement than were you to schedule this item as a 'scheduled maintenance procedure'.

The other end of the cable is at the top of the transaxle under the hood. You can manually move it, but keep in mind that the car may start to go and hit something. Apply the parking brake AND have someone firmly depress the brake pedal if you're going to attempt this.

According to the Gates website , both the SOHC and DOHC engines used in

a 1999 Ford Escort ( are interference engines )

With an ohm meter .05 ohms.You change the settings by loosening up the screws and the slowly turn the tps till the ohm meter reads ,05 while holding it in place tighten the screws and the cover the screws with finger nail polish this keeps them from backing out.Also makes it easier to adjust the next time just line up the polish marks. ...................thanks works great,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

It is located under the intake manifold between the engine and the firewall.

With a wiring diagram and a length of wire that has the same characteristics of the existing wire (same max load, and same gauge) replace it as far as you have to and join them with butt connectors (don't use those crappy twist on cone connectors, the butt connectors work so much better, and take up much less space, not only that, they are much safer.

To get to the tail light, just pop out the upholstery plugs *in the trunk* (plastic with barbs and a flat top) and pull back the upholstery. then you can get to the wiring on the back of the brake lights. *rear stereo speaker wires are on the left side as well, don't confuse them*

lastly, if you are replacing more than one wire, do ONE at a time.. trust me, you don't want to forget which is which. Test it before you put everything back, and good luck.

The Owner Guide ONLY states that the trunk release control is on the

INSTRUMENT PANEL . It shows a round button that has trunk release printed

twice around the button . Unfortunately , it doesn't show the exact location on

the INSTRUMENT PANEL

the sensor is on the the thermostat housing, youll see one on top(fan sensor)the other is underneath the housing.the housing will have to be removed to change it

The job takes 3.5 to 4.0 hours to pull the transmission

estimate to rebuild it - $1,700

Look in the right hand side,inside of the trunk.Theres an opening with a red push button switch.If is up push it down to let fuel through the line.If is up,its cutting off the fuel line.

Good Luck!

spray it from the inside with wd40 see if that helps...

Temp sensor on tube just under coil pack It is the one with the weatherpak connector replace that and I'll bet you it will work. i got the same problem but i repalced that sensor and it still doenst kick on and the motor still over heats i have replace the anti-freeze if the guy who answerd the ? before me knows anything else that would work thanks jeff-ke7ace My 93escort lx has 3 different relays that control the fan motor. one of them fried and the fan would no longer work. Try locating them and see if they look burnt.A shop told me where to find the relays. On the '93 there is also a fan switch temp sensor. If this is not working the fan will not come on when the temp rises. Does the fan come on when you turn on the A/C? Turning on the A/C should bypass the temp sensors and force the fan on if the fan motor itself is good. Unplug the fan motor and see if you have twelve volts at the connector when the temp is up or the A/C is running. Also if memory serves the relays are on the passenger side firewall near the top.