Buy a kit at Wal-Mart or auto parts comes with instructions

13,I think- I drive an escort

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Under hood, center, front engine area, above water outlet, mounted in intake manifold

got this off the Autozone website

hope this is what you wanted and it helps out

mike

The "sensor" is in the above stated location, but it only provides information to the computer. You asked about the temperature GAUGE sensor (actually a sending unit), which on a 2.3l is screwed into the driver's side of the block, all the way toward the back. From above, you may be able to see a sensor, but that is the oil psi sending unit. the coolant tamp sending unit is located below that and is pretty much impossible to see from above, much less change. Do it from below, and drain the coolant first, or do it super quick to avoid a face full of antifreeze. good luck, and remember to use teflon tape.

PS- the sending unit is screwed into the block, not the oil pan, that's the oil level sending unit.

I hope I am understanding your question correctly, but it sounds as though you are asking for a general explanation for what a relay is. All cars, not just an Escort, use relays. Relays are even found in your house. Your refrierator, washing machine, probably your television, and more have relays in them. In a nut shell, a relay is an electrically operated switch. It is a means to use low voltage or low amperage to control high voltage or high amperage. A relay has an electromagnet in it, that when it is energized, moves a contact inside to either make or break an electrical connection. One senerio in a car where this is needed is for the computer(low amperage componet) to operate a radiator cooling fan(high amperage componet). Let's say in our senerio, the engine is hot, and the computer decides to turn on the radiator fan. It supplies low ampere current to the coil windings in the cooling fan relay through two small pins on the relay. This moves the contact inside the relay which completes a circuit across two large pins at the relay to complete a high amperage circuit to the fan and switch the fan on. There are many other relays that perform a host of functions, like turning on the AC compressor, fuel pump, and even operate the starter.

A squeaking noise from the rear left tire when turning is typically caused by a worn wheel bearing. The bearing supports the wheels as they turn.

Could also be the brake pad "squealer" letting you know it is time to have the brakes serviced.

Your mum, Steve.

Alternator good or bad?

Here in Texas, all of the major chain auto parts stores [like Advance, Autozone, or O'Reilly], have handheld electrical system [including battery and alternator] analysers.

At no charge [free] they will test your vehicle's electrical/charging system in their parking lot.

If that service is not available, and you have, or have access to, a Volt-Ohmmeter, you can check it yourself.

Set the meter mode switch [usually a multi-position "rotary" type of switch] to "DC Volts," and the range to "50 DC Volt" scale.

Touch the negative test probe [black] to the battery negative terminal [battery top will usually have a "--" symbol, or "NEG' embossed in the plastic top next to the terminal], and the positive test probe [red] to the positive terminal [usually a "+" symbol, or "POS' embossed next to it. Also, normally the positive terminal will be just slightly larger in diameter than the negative terminal].

With the engine running [and being VERY CAREFUL to keeps hands, clothes, and test leads well clear of any moving engine parts] the meter [if set properly] should show a voltage above 13 volts usually about 16 volts, give or take a couple of volts. If the engine is gently revved up" the meter may show an increase in voltage output.

Without the engine running, the meter should indicate the battery's voltage, usually ranging from 11 to 12.5 volts.

Yes

According to the 2002 Ford Escort Owner Guide :

All models have a tank size of ( 48.5 liters / 12.8 U.S. gallons )

1. Start by changing the coal on the engine. Price $40.00

2. If that doesn't work then change that spark plug. Price $3.00

3. if that doesn't work then change that spark plug wire. Price $15.00

All this doesn't include the labor, to replace these parts are quite simple.

2400 lbs.

Yes. My Mercury Tracer has an engine directly out of a Ford Escort (same year).

Typically rotors come from the factory covered with a waxy material to prevent rust. Yes, it's a good idea to remove that material before using the brakes.

2000.00

check the idle speed with the car in gear, if it has a tac on the dash it should idle in gear at about 700 rpm if its too low the car will vibrate or stall.

i have a 2000 ford expedition, min did the same thing....twice. first time had a bad O2 sensor replaced that ran fine. second time was plugs Would help to know make and model of vehicle. But the most likely cause is an engine miss due to a bad plug wire or plug or a dead cylinder [no compression]. Other causes could be a vacuum leak or the fuel/air mixture may be way off. The engine is still missing at higher speeds you just don't notice it as the higher engine speed simply covers it up. This is why engine misses are usually diagnosed only at idle or under load while the vehicle is stationary. bestalucktoyou Check passenger side motor mount. A bad one will make the car vibrate at idle. The car very much may be out of time. At higher engine speeds you will not notice it. If you recently had the timing belt done or your timing belt jumped, would cause this. But first try a tune up.

One way is to:

1) disconnect the fuse for the power locks

2) press the power lock/unlock switch on the door panel, or keyless entry system as usual to operate the lock

3) the clicking sound is the power lock relay, which you can use to help locate it, although if it's under the dash, may still be difficult to find.

4) if there's no sound, then the relay is toast, and consulting a technical manual specific to your vehicle, or calling the dealer, is probably the only way

No it doesn't have an interference motor. This means if the timng belt breaks the valves won't go through the pistons.

On the front of the exhaust manifold you will see your sensor, otherwise, it may be before the catalytic converter on the underside of your car, it helps to go out and buy a special wrench made especially for removing the O2 sensor. Unplug the sensor from it's wiring, then use the wrench to remove the sensor, don't forget to spray it down with a good lubricant such as kroil or wd-40 an let it penetrate for a few minutes before attempting to remove it.

Depends, if you are replacing all fluid it is about 4 to 5 quarts. There is a dip stick for measuring the right amount. Put some in, start the car and run it around the block going through some gears, then park the car, leave it running and check the dip stick. Add more if needed and repeat the process until at the full mark. Use this same process if just adding a little but run the car around the block and check the stick first.

First off you didn't say why you would want to replace the brake line. I have never worked on a Ford Escort-- but almost all cars are the same. The brake line runing from the front of the car to the back is a metal tubing, and I will assume that is what you are wanting to replace. Usually the tubing hooks to the Master Cylinder at the front, and runs to the back to a "block" of somekind welded or bolted at the rear of the car. The "block" is there to be used to extend the brake lines farther. Usually the tube goes into the block, and than a soft line is ran from the other side of the "block" to the wheel cylinder which is located on the brake drum assembly. This way the soft tube (also part of the brake line system) can flex as the wheel travels up and down, which a hard line can not do. On some cars, that "block" is used to bring the fluid to the back of the car, going into the "block" and than two hard lines come back out and runs to each side of the car, than it goes into another "block" to allow the soft line to be installed to the wheel cylinder. The "block" is more or less an adapter and that's all it does. There is nothing inside those "blocks", its just a point to add more brake lines, that continue onto the wheel cylinder. NOW -- unless the tubing from the front to the back has been damaged, there is no reason to replace it since it is metal. You can disconnect it from the front, and at the rear block, and blow air thur it to make sure it is not clogged. If it isn't clogged than there is no problem with that brake line, unless you can see it leaking. If it is damaged, the first thing you need to do is follow it from front to back to see if it goes under the body and is easy to get to, some cars have the brake line running under the car, some cars have the brake line going thru the tunnel between the front seats and to the back of the car, and some cars have the brake line under the carpeting going to the back of the car. Under the car brake lines are easy to replace, they are usually just held in by clips attached to the frame. If the brake line goes thru the interior, than it maybe a real job to get to it and replace it. The other problem is the year of the car. Unless the dearlership still has factory brake lines for that year, you are kind of in a bind. You can buy brake line tubing and make your own, but you will need the tools to cut and bend the brake lines, and tools to attach the ends that are needed for the brake line, without the tools, you will have to take it to someone with the tools that can do that, you cannot bend the metal brake lines by hand, they kink, that's why you need a tube bender. And you need a flaring tool to be able to attach the ends needed to the brake line, and a tubing cutter to cut the brake line, hacksaws don't work to well for this type of job. I hope this has been of help to you, if you know what your doing, its not hard to replace brake lines or make your own, just takes a little practice.

The dash has to come out to get to the heater core. It's quite a job and this may be a job you want to hire someone else to do. The heater core in my 97 was leaking coolant so I put a small bottle of Alumaseal in the radiator. Some will say this will clog up the radiator, but I have found that not to be the case.

It stopped the leak. I have had no further problems.

It is fairly easy to change and is located under the car about midway between the engine and the tank. You need special tools but are cheap at the parts store.

Depending on what part of the year your car was manufactured it can also be attached to the firewall just to the driver/rear of the engine. no special tools are needed, just pull (or break) the clips holding it in and remove it. replace the old clips with the new ones in the box. removing the air filter housing and hose to throttlebody will also aid in getting it out. Have patience when removing it, it can be a pain.