A master key is an original operating key and operates all locks on a vehicle. Sometimes there are two keys, a master and a valet. The valet key is used when you drop off a car for someone else to park. A valet key will not open a trunk or glove box.
If it is anything like a 99 civic, this is how it would be done:
There is usually a cap that is located on the roof of the interior that can be removed.
Under the cap is a slot to manually crank the sun roof closed.
The tool you need came with the 99 civic along with the tire iron and is thin and S shaped I believe.
You should be able to close it if the method is the same. If you dont have the tool, you may be able to use something else If it is anything like a 99 civic, this is how it would be done:
There is usually a cap that is located on the roof of the interior that can be removed.
Under the cap is a slot to manually crank the sun roof closed.
The tool you need came with the 99 civic along with the tire iron and is thin and S shaped I believe.
You should be able to close it if the method is the same. If you dont have the tool, you may be able to use something else
driver side door jam...If you are sitting in the drivers seat it is where your left elbow would be.
Sounds like the delay Knob may either be turned to far or need to be replaced. Check the handle for the wipers see if there is a knob oro other turning part and adjust it to the time delay you would prefer
Well I don't rightly know. The 98 Accord does have one. Try this. Open your owner's manual and read. If it has one it will be listed.
AnswerYes there is a fuel light in a 98 Honda civic ex, It is in the upper, mid-to-right hand side of your dash. However, I will warn you -- when it comes on, it's not a warning, you are out of gas. I know this from experience so don't try it! :) :) :)If it has it, its located on the block under the intake manifold,if you follow the pcv hose from the valve cover, that should plug up into the breather box. tho i dont thing that it is servicable, i could be wrong tho. good luck.
The diagram is on the fuse box covers. One is in the left panel near the floor. The other is under the hood on the left side of the vehicle near the battery.
Your question is vague. Where is it leaking from? Or, r u asking how to find the source of the leak?
That'd a good price most people want at least five grand for one that old and miles
In the interest of taking good care of your car, this should be done, in addition to replacing the water pump, around every 100,000 miles or less.
It's not advisable to exceed that mileage, and it's important that you replace the water pump in addition to the timing belt while the engine is apart.
Generally, not a very expensive maintenance task compared to European or American cars. it should be in the neighborhood of $500 or so from a reputable mechanic, although it can be noted that it is only about $100 in parts and the rest is labor overhead costs. So, if you know someone or have a good mechanic or the know-how to do it yourself, that's your best bet. Nonetheless, an important maintenance task to stay on top of if you want your car to continue to run(and well).
you got the timing belt, alternator belt, a/c belt (if equipped), power steering belt(if equipped). i think that's it hope this helps
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Broken antenna mast ! 1) Remove two screws securing antenna mast base to roof. 1) See car stereo removal instructions for removal of left dash panel.
2) Disconnect antenna lead, located at edge of side panel by fuse block. This saves removing the entire stereo.
3) Pull antenna cable free back to opening behind fuse block and trace up to opening. (Remember this spot!) 1) Pull old antenna and cable from top of car roof. Cut antenna lead and tape new lead to end.
2) Feed new antenna mast into opening while pulling old antenna cable from inside car, (reach back behind fuse block for antenna cable and pull through opening and back to connector.)
3) Push antenna mast completely to car body and tighten two screws.
4) Be sure to lower antenna next time through car wash.
This is accurate for old style electromechanical door chimes. I believe the procedures will work with electronic chimes, but I have no experience with them so it may not. Your door chime system consists of three parts: * A step down transformer. Ususally 120VAC->24VAC and commonly mounted near the breaker panel. This powers the system. * A button by the door. * The chime unit. These three parts are wires in series. When the button is pushed it completes the circuit from the transformer to the chime. The energy draws a plunger into a solenoid. The inerta of the plunger draws it past the energized resting position, striking a chime to make the "ding". The plunger then comes to rest, held in the solenoid. When the button is released a spring pushed the plunger back out. Again, inerta oushed the plunger past its true resting position, striking the chime to make the "dong". Note: You will need a AC voltmeter for this. * Locate the transformer. You should see 24VAC (check the transformer rating to verify this) across the output terminals. If you don't see this the transformer is the problem. Check that it is powered. If the transformer has power but us not putting out an output voltage the transfoemer has failed. * Take the cover off your chime. You should see three terminals: a common, a front door chime terminal, and a back door chime terminal. Check the voltage across the front door terminal and common. It should be 0V. Have a helper push the door chime button. The voltage should go to the voltage you read across the transformer. If these measurements are as expected the chime has failed. * Pull the button out. You should see the transformer voltage across the terminals when the button is not depressed. When the button is depressed the voltage should be 0V. If you short the terminals the chime should sound. If you can sound the chime by shorting the wires the button has failed. * If you think the chime is bad, disconnect the wire from the front door terminal and connect it to the rear door terminal. There are two solenoids in the unit, so this is a quick test case. The chime should now sound as normal, but only sound one tone. If so, the front door soleniod is bad. You will have to replace the whole chime. If not, there is a problem somewhere else. * If you can't track down the problem above, completely disconnect the wiring from the transformer and short the two wires together. Disconnect the two wires from the chime and short them together. Disconnect the switch and measure the continuity between them. If you see more than a few ohms, you have a break in the wire. Have you done anything that would cut a wire or cause it to break lately? * Somewhere there is a splice, usually at one of the three components, as you need two runs of two cinductor wire to connect the 3 components. Find this and check it. You can also disconnect it and test the two runs independently.
It is bolted to the rear of the engine. Raise the hood and you can easily see the transmission.
The correct size is written in your owners manual and on the drivers door post. The correct size is 185/65-14.
The brake fluid level may need to be topped off. Otherwise if the light is still on after checking the fluid, the ABS system should be checked by a professional.
Be sure to use the type of brake fluid recommended on the brake fluid cap.