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Binding throtle linkage or idle control solonoid not working.

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With mine it was the IAVC(idle air valve control) on my 94 2.3L Tempo. I got the part used for $10 at junkyard($54 new at Knetch's). On some, the springs stick so you can try spraying it with carb cleaner to loosen them up. Although on mine, the springs moved but you could blow on one end and air came out the other side. On the "new" IAVC part, air wouldn't pass through but fixed the high idle perfectly! Before you take it out, try tapping it with a hammer to see if it temporarily changes the idle any. If so, that is certain to be your culprit for sure! It was mine!

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Find the blower and locate the electrical connector on it. Using a common volt meter, check the wires for voltage and play with the switches inside the vehicle.....Good voltage usually means a bad blower. No voltage means you need to find another problem. You did check the fuzes first, didn't you? :)

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15 year old car? I'd go up to a High-mileage 10W-40 and stick in 20 percent Lucas oil additive.
Phil

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From what I read somewhere, the fuel pump was integrated with ICRM/CCRM which meant you probably have to take the control module out first.

The fuel pump relay is located behind the glove box.

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It is under the car about under the seats in the frame rail.

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Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

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I recomend buying a bottle of right stuff permatex gasket maker. I ran into problems with all other gasket potions (not to mention a broken bolt) and i used this as a last resort and it has been leak free for over a year. just make sure you put a luiberal amount on the valve cover and use the silicone bushings on the bolts. works like magic and prevents underhood fires. like i said i even busted one of them bolts and when i used that STUFF it was miraculous for a result. one more thing be sure to leave the car parked for about 24 hours before driving it after using the stuff.

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Disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 seconds. If it doesn't go away, there is something else wrong. Have the codes read to find out what needs repaired.

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Press and hold the volume knob in

use the tune and select buttons to change hour and minute respectively

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Why no, not at all. Molli Harr is one of the coolest, nicest, most awesome people alive.

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you will need a t-45(the manual advised and my car required a T-40) torx socket, a ratchet to fit, a slot screwdriver and a small amount of grease. 1- loosen lug nuts (don't remove) 2- jack up the car 3- place a safety stand (under sway bar knuckle is easy) 4- remove lug nuts and tire assembly 5- using a slot screwdriver pry between the inner pad and rotor (this will push the caliper piston in) 6- remove two caliper bolts with the torx socket(they are behind the caliper pointing toward you and are covered by a rubber sleeve) 7- slowly pry caliper straight out (note how pads are installed) 8- DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY HOSE!!!!!! 9- install new pads (note inner and outer are different) 10- put a small amount of grease on the caliper area that slides on the steering knuckle 11- if replacing the rotors too, slide off old rotor and slide on new rotor 12- slide caliper and pad assembly onto the rotor (sometimes you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor straight) 13- tighten caliper bolts to 20ft.lbs (being the bolts are pointing toward you so make sure you are tightening and not loosening them) 14- reinstall you wheel and tire assembly

NOTE: always do brakes in sets not one side PUMP UP BRAKES BEFORE PUTTING THE VEHICLE IN GEAR listen for any noises on your test drive make a few light stops them let the pads cool for at least 30 minutes to seat the new pads

happy braking hope this helped x s f h p

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This may be the result of a faulty ammeter or a faulty sensor to the idiot light for charging system. You need to use a multi-meter to test for battery voltage. If there is not voltage at the fuse panel, there might be a large fuse under the hood. Check that. If the fuse is good make sure the hot wire is properly connected to the positive battery terminal. A nice clean and tight connection. Next make sure all your negative connections are clean and tight. If there is green dust on your connections use baking soda mixed with water and a toothbrush to clean them up. Works everytime. Good luck the big 100amp fuse under the hood or at the fuse box could be blown. also make sure the battery terminals are actually tightened down instead of just put in the posts, a friend of mine couldn't start his car because the connection to the battery wasn't tight.

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Im sure that the brake pads are worn enough that the rivits that hold the pads on to the metal brackets are rubbung the rotors, or there is no pad left and the brackets are rubbing. Either case you may have to take the rotors off and have them turned to refinish the surface. Rotors on that model cost only 25 $ calipers only about 15$ pads about 15.$ Total brake job front $ 99.00 or less, if u do it your self. While u are at it, check the bearings in the wheel hub, they like to be changed also......

It could also be wheel bearings going out in the front. Parts are usually around 30 bucks but you have to have them pressed into the steering knuckle by someone with a press.

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There is a tech bulletin on the subject. In fact there are 2 on the shoulder belt restraint system. You can find the titles on http://www.alldata.com/TSB/19/91192054.html

but you have to pay to get the full Tech service Bulletin. Maybe you know someone at Autozone who can get it for you for free.

Lowe's has a Teflon spray that leaves no residue. It's in a spray can. Once it drays all that's left is teflon. You could try using this in the track to loosen up the belt.

There is a switch inside the door next to the latch. It is the switch that controls the shoulder belt. Mine tore up a while back. I wired in a manual switch. If I remember correctly, it switches to ground when the door is ajar, and to 'open' when door is closed.

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Ford has a recall on what is called TFI Thick Film Ignition your symptoms sounds alot like this as I just recently experienced this myself have this replaced and see if it helps the part should be 30-60 dollars good luck

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Remove the neg battery cable tehn the aC ducts under the dash. Then take the wires and bolts holding the radio from under the dash. Then remove the knobs and the nuts under them. Work the radio out from under the dash.

First remove the bezel from the dash, (around the radio). Use 4 heavy pieces of wire and insert one into each of the holes in the corners of faceplate of the radio. Push them in approx. 2 inches then pull the radio out the front and disconnect the wires and antenna.

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Remove ALL dashboard screwscarefuly remove the dashboard,andyou will see were the bulbs are located,replace any/and/or/allthe bulbs needed,and reverse theprocedure to reinstall ! That's it !

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Well there should not be a sleve in the crank snout where the seal lip rides. If there is one, then the crank has been reconnditioned/replaced, or there was damage to the snout, previously. I will recommend leaving the sleave, or replacing it with a new one if it has obtained rotational damage from the seal lip. This happens usually due to oil starvation at the lip ridding area or from a hardenned seal. The sleves may be purchased at your local autoparts and only serve to go over the damaged grove that the seal duged in. If the seal was not leaking and one is replacing the seal as maintenance or timing chain r&r. then leave the sleave in place other that that remove damaged sleve and replace with new one..Hope this helps.. Will..:)

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okay,to replace the headlampbulb: all you have to do is go to the back of the case(or what ever it is called; the big bowl that holds the bulb).on the back there should be a cylinder about a HALF INCH IN radius.turn the cylinder and the bulb should pop right out. remember not to touch the glass sleeve on the new bulb,because it will cause the bulb to blow. use a screwdriver to gently pry loose the tabs, then just pop out the bulb.the new one plugs right in. no problem.