True, it is about twenty to thirty bucks for an outer tie rod. However, an inner tie rod is a bit more. And, a more tiresome process to change.
Binding throtle linkage or idle control solonoid not working.
With mine it was the IAVC(idle air valve control) on my 94 2.3L Tempo. I got the part used for $10 at junkyard($54 new at Knetch's). On some, the springs stick so you can try spraying it with carb cleaner to loosen them up. Although on mine, the springs moved but you could blow on one end and air came out the other side. On the "new" IAVC part, air wouldn't pass through but fixed the high idle perfectly! Before you take it out, try tapping it with a hammer to see if it temporarily changes the idle any. If so, that is certain to be your culprit for sure! It was mine!
YES, connect pin 2 of the large conetor to the test plug, turn on the key but do not start it and the check engine light will flash once followed by the codes.
my 92 tempo had a yellow light service engine soon, i had a small computer under the hood replaced, that meters fuel to the car and was shutting off allowing to much fuel into the engine. the cost WA $245 usd but the problem was cured.AnswerThere is a way to get trouble codes, but it's not like otheres. I know Doge had cars/trucks you could access codes using the light & turning key to 'accessory' twice & then off. With the Tempo/Topaz, there is a 'pin' located in a small plastic box (diagnostic label) under the hood. With a multimeter, +lead, on pin, -lead to ground. But you'll still need a manual to be sure the right pin,(I can't describe it for sure), and to know what the codes mean. I guess the answer to the question is......'sort of'. AnswerOn the firewall, near the strut tower - depending on year and engine depends if it is on the passenger side or driver's side - you will find a connector that looks like a trapezoid. It should have a smaller connector (ground) next to it. It may also say "Self Test". There are six terminals on the larger and the smaller has only one. If you use a sweep hand (analog) multimeter for this procedure, use a piece of wire to connect pin 2 on the larger connector to the negative side of the voltmeter and then use the probe of the multimeter to connect to pin 4 of the large terminal. Make sure you set the voltimeter between 15 and 20 volts. Put the key on the ignition, turn the switch to on (but do not start) and watch the sweep hand do its thing. If everything works correctly it will sweep once pause and then sweep again. This is a Code 11. That means everything is good to go.
You can also purchase at most autoparts stores, small engine analyzers that do the same thing without the hastle of pesky wires. It also comes with a book that has all of the trouble codes. But the best thing is it covers most Ford vehicles from 1984-1994, at which time Ford changed from the EEC-IV electronic engine control system to a newer system. The cost for this analyzer is about $30.00. It is truly a must have in your tool collection. It will tell you exactly what is wrong with any electronic engine control problem on your vehicle.
Find the blower and locate the electrical connector on it. Using a common volt meter, check the wires for voltage and play with the switches inside the vehicle.....Good voltage usually means a bad blower. No voltage means you need to find another problem. You did check the fuzes first, didn't you? :)
15 year old car? I'd go up to a High-mileage 10W-40 and stick in 20 percent Lucas oil additive.
From what I read somewhere, the fuel pump was integrated with ICRM/CCRM which meant you probably have to take the control module out first.
The fuel pump relay is located behind the glove box.
P.S Take the caliper off starting with the top first then the bottom and do the exact opposite to put it back on.
It is under the car about under the seats in the frame rail.
Get a manual on your car from DISCOUNTAUTOREPAIRMANUALS.COM it will have pictures and everything.
On a 4 cyl motor, you would need to drain the coolant first. Next you will need to loosen the idler pulley and disconect the drive belt. You need to remove the coolant tube bracket next, they are located on the side of the oil pan, and on the back of the block. For the water pump itself, there are 3 bolts that you need to take off, and then you will need to take the old gasket off, and then replace it with a new one with the new water pump. With a 6 cyl motor, you need to disconect the heater hose as well.
dis-connect battery drain the coolant,remove belt there is a coolant tube that is connected to the pump(pressure fit),remove the bolts that attach the tube to the oil pan,and back of block,now you pull the tube out of the water pump,set aside tube. Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump on,put it on the same way you took it off,use new O-Ring for pressure fitting,and new gasket on the new pump,EASY!ANSWER
Not to mention, if you cannot see a clear exit pathway for the water pump, when you're under the car looking at it---I'm talking about not being able to remove the "hardline hose", the "softline hose" or the AC hoses from your way---you can't remove them for whatever reason, when the car is up on ramps, it's best to place some wood blocks on top of a hydraulic jack, place it under the engine, then remove the right top engine bracket bolt (inside hood area, single bolt mounted above passenger wheel well area) then jack up the engine using a hydraulic jack. This will lift the passenger side of the engine up enough so the water pump is easily accessible and easy to remove from below. I also used a small flat head screw driver and tapped the hardline hose, into the water pump housing to make sure that it would seal properly. After we pulled the hard line hose out, simply bracketing it back up was not enough re-pressure fit the pipe into the housing. To ensure a sound fit, I had to "tap it" into place, on each side of the circular fitting. If it is not sealed properly, coolant, when poured into the radiator will run out immediately.
On my 1993 Tempo 2.3 liter. I broke two 10mm sockets and lost one somewhere in engine compartment. THEN I raised passenger side of engine about 4." And did not loosen or remove any other hard or soft hoses or brackets on bottom of engine.
Three bolts on water pump were very accessible from top. Water pump came out of bottom pretty easy. I would suggest buying a new pump first to orient yourself where the three mounting bolts are. This is because you will be working by feel part of the time.
2-drain the coolant
3-remove power steering reservoir and flip it over the engine
4-remove the coolant reservoir , so that you have more room
5-use a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the serpentine belt tensioner to remove the belt
6-put a jack under the oil pan
7-unbolt the two 13mm bolts ,and the long horizontal 13mm bolt from the engine mount
8- remove the engine mount bracket
9-jack the engine high enough so you can have enough room to unbolt 3 10mm bolts-two on top of the water pump adjacent and one on bottom
10- don't touch the 8mm bolts that hold the water pump housing
11-remove the three 10mm bolts
12-wiggle the water pump to remove- so that it disconnect from the the bottom metal hose
13- remove the pulley from the water pump-it's easy now
14- find a way to get the water pump out of there
15-now you can unbolt the 8mm bolts and install an new water pump
16-don't forget the o ring that seal the metal hose at the bottom
17-reverse the steps
The 1989 Ford Tempo was anything but a reliable car. Very unreliable with many problems. Search these sites for info and reliability ratings. www.nada.com www.edmunds.com www.consumerreports.com www.msncars.comAnswerI disagree. I have a 1989 Ford Tempo, 2.3L, 114K miles, and have had it for over three years now. I have had very few problems with it. Very reliable -- if you take care of it. AnswerI have an 1988 ford tempo manual, and i have had only minor problems with it. It has 286K kilometer. I have replaced the altenator, starter and head gasget. however, my sister had an 1989 automatic, and she had basically the same problems. AnswerI very strongly believe that the 1989 ford tempo is the most reliable car out there. Ive had mine for 4 years and the only thing ive had to change was the oil. I put a body kit, rims, new aftermarket exaust and many other things to make my car superior to other cars. I think it is a very good car. AnswerI have a 1989 two door Ford Tempo I like it because it drives good when it doesn't stall out. This car to me is not even really driveable until I can get a person to work on it. AnswerNot a reliable car....2 starters,fuel pump and alternator within 1 1/2 yrs...now it is broke down again and it is a good chance it is the starter..again!!! AnswerAny car will have problems. I had an 88 with a 5 speed and it was onew of the most reliable and economical cars that I have owned.(I have owned about 15 cars in the last 20 years) I paid 650.00 for it and drove it for a year with only maintenace to pay for. (Brakes,oil changes) AnswerI had a 1985 Tempo (bought new). It had 156,000 miles and still got great mileage. I also have a 1993 with the V6 and it has 200,000 miles. The cars are only as good as the owner. If you maintain it well, it will last a long time.
I have a 1991 Tempo 2.3 that currently has about 173,000 miles on it. It is a fantastic car. As long as you maintain it, it will get you where you need to be. Other than replacing parts as they go, I have not encountered any major issues. The DIY aspect is a little frustrating, it is difficult to reach some places, replacement parts are hard to come by (most have been discontinued), but it is easy to rig things that will work (i.e the air retrun on the catylitic converter was replaced by finding a suitable high temp rubber hose at an industrial hose wharehouse). I love this car and will hold onto it for years to come.
Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"
I recomend buying a bottle of right stuff permatex gasket maker. I ran into problems with all other gasket potions (not to mention a broken bolt) and i used this as a last resort and it has been leak free for over a year. just make sure you put a luiberal amount on the valve cover and use the silicone bushings on the bolts. works like magic and prevents underhood fires. like i said i even busted one of them bolts and when i used that STUFF it was miraculous for a result. one more thing be sure to leave the car parked for about 24 hours before driving it after using the stuff.
Disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 seconds. If it doesn't go away, there is something else wrong. Have the codes read to find out what needs repaired.
Press and hold the volume knob in
use the tune and select buttons to change hour and minute respectively
Why no, not at all. Molli Harr is one of the coolest, nicest, most awesome people alive.
you will need a t-45(the manual advised and my car required a T-40) torx socket, a ratchet to fit, a slot screwdriver and a small amount of grease. 1- loosen lug nuts (don't remove) 2- jack up the car 3- place a safety stand (under sway bar knuckle is easy) 4- remove lug nuts and tire assembly 5- using a slot screwdriver pry between the inner pad and rotor (this will push the caliper piston in) 6- remove two caliper bolts with the torx socket(they are behind the caliper pointing toward you and are covered by a rubber sleeve) 7- slowly pry caliper straight out (note how pads are installed) 8- DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY HOSE!!!!!! 9- install new pads (note inner and outer are different) 10- put a small amount of grease on the caliper area that slides on the steering knuckle 11- if replacing the rotors too, slide off old rotor and slide on new rotor 12- slide caliper and pad assembly onto the rotor (sometimes you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor straight) 13- tighten caliper bolts to 20ft.lbs (being the bolts are pointing toward you so make sure you are tightening and not loosening them) 14- reinstall you wheel and tire assembly
NOTE: always do brakes in sets not one side PUMP UP BRAKES BEFORE PUTTING THE VEHICLE IN GEAR listen for any noises on your test drive make a few light stops them let the pads cool for at least 30 minutes to seat the new pads
happy braking hope this helped x s f h p
This may be the result of a faulty ammeter or a faulty sensor to the idiot light for charging system. You need to use a multi-meter to test for battery voltage. If there is not voltage at the fuse panel, there might be a large fuse under the hood. Check that. If the fuse is good make sure the hot wire is properly connected to the positive battery terminal. A nice clean and tight connection. Next make sure all your negative connections are clean and tight. If there is green dust on your connections use baking soda mixed with water and a toothbrush to clean them up. Works everytime. Good luck the big 100amp fuse under the hood or at the fuse box could be blown. also make sure the battery terminals are actually tightened down instead of just put in the posts, a friend of mine couldn't start his car because the connection to the battery wasn't tight.
Im sure that the brake pads are worn enough that the rivits that hold the pads on to the metal brackets are rubbung the rotors, or there is no pad left and the brackets are rubbing. Either case you may have to take the rotors off and have them turned to refinish the surface. Rotors on that model cost only 25 $ calipers only about 15$ pads about 15.$ Total brake job front $ 99.00 or less, if u do it your self. While u are at it, check the bearings in the wheel hub, they like to be changed also......
It could also be wheel bearings going out in the front. Parts are usually around 30 bucks but you have to have them pressed into the steering knuckle by someone with a press.
There is a tech bulletin on the subject. In fact there are 2 on the shoulder belt restraint system. You can find the titles on http://www.alldata.com/TSB/19/91192054.html
but you have to pay to get the full Tech service Bulletin. Maybe you know someone at Autozone who can get it for you for free.
Lowe's has a Teflon spray that leaves no residue. It's in a spray can. Once it drays all that's left is teflon. You could try using this in the track to loosen up the belt.
There is a switch inside the door next to the latch. It is the switch that controls the shoulder belt. Mine tore up a while back. I wired in a manual switch. If I remember correctly, it switches to ground when the door is ajar, and to 'open' when door is closed.
Ford has a recall on what is called TFI Thick Film Ignition your symptoms sounds alot like this as I just recently experienced this myself have this replaced and see if it helps the part should be 30-60 dollars good luck
Remove the neg battery cable tehn the aC ducts under the dash. Then take the wires and bolts holding the radio from under the dash. Then remove the knobs and the nuts under them. Work the radio out from under the dash.
First remove the bezel from the dash, (around the radio). Use 4 heavy pieces of wire and insert one into each of the holes in the corners of faceplate of the radio. Push them in approx. 2 inches then pull the radio out the front and disconnect the wires and antenna.
Remove ALL dashboard screwscarefuly remove the dashboard,andyou will see were the bulbs are located,replace any/and/or/allthe bulbs needed,and reverse theprocedure to reinstall ! That's it !
Well there should not be a sleve in the crank snout where the seal lip rides. If there is one, then the crank has been reconnditioned/replaced, or there was damage to the snout, previously. I will recommend leaving the sleave, or replacing it with a new one if it has obtained rotational damage from the seal lip. This happens usually due to oil starvation at the lip ridding area or from a hardenned seal. The sleves may be purchased at your local autoparts and only serve to go over the damaged grove that the seal duged in. If the seal was not leaking and one is replacing the seal as maintenance or timing chain r&r. then leave the sleave in place other that that remove damaged sleve and replace with new one..Hope this helps.. Will..:)
okay,to replace the headlampbulb: all you have to do is go to the back of the case(or what ever it is called; the big bowl that holds the bulb).on the back there should be a cylinder about a HALF INCH IN radius.turn the cylinder and the bulb should pop right out. remember not to touch the glass sleeve on the new bulb,because it will cause the bulb to blow. use a screwdriver to gently pry loose the tabs, then just pop out the bulb.the new one plugs right in. no problem.
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