Remove the transmission dip stick at back of engine normally on left side of engine just in front of the firewall. Use the longer funnel, usually about 12" in length. You can also use 2 small funnels, one in the dip tube and another small funnel just above it. This allows you to pour into small funnel safely and it will pour into the lower small funnel they are lined up. I believe you have to have the engine running while you check the level of the fluid. DO NOT OVER FILL AS IT WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO TRANS.
You can't. It is computer controlled. Actually, that's not necessarily true.... All you need is a Chilton's manual to trace the location of the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) wire, which goes to your ECM. Find the wire, clip it and splice in a toggle switch to your dashboard, then run the wire back to the other side of the wire you snipped. Switch off, the VSS is disabled and probably, you will get a computer code or some check engine light that will come on. No big deal, after you do the dirty deed of speeding above and beyond what all of us disapprove of, just switch your toggle back on and POOF! Your VSS works again! (Sorry boys, I'm a gearhead...) Steelman1196 you need to buy a programmer from hypertech. you can get rid of a governor, adjust you're timing, adjust you're speedo for different size tire, regulate the fuel/air .....ect. 20-30 extra horses! depending nick Actually, that's not necessarily true.... All you need is a Chilton's manual to trace the location of the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) wire, which goes to your ECM. Find the wire, clip it and splice in a toggle switch to your dashboard, then run the wire back to the other side of the wire you snipped. Switch off, the VSS is disabled and probably, you will get a computer code or some check engine light that will come on. No big deal, after you do the dirty deed of speeding above and beyond what all of us disapprove of, just switch your toggle back on and POOF! Your VSS works again! (Sorry boys, I'm a gearhead...) Steelman1196
Take the neg battery cable off. Then the wires off of the starter then the bolts that hold it on. Then sometimes you have to remove th exhaust manifold to get it out.
you don't have to remove manifold just the 3 bolts holding the pipe to the manifold then cut the 2 bolts off the flanged conn. next to the flex loint ( this is from a 99 4x4 hope its the same ) manifold pipe bolts are self locking and very tight you have to glow (torches) them always remember fire bad should be done by someone experienced. cut the rear weld nuts off the flange. if you complete this and don't burn the truck up you need to check the flange at manifold make sure it good and clean joining surfaces at rear flange buy new nuts for manifold and new nuts and washers for rear flange i reused old gaskets they were fine
Go how to change a starter on a 92 Isuzu rodeo in this forum for a more detailed explanation of this process !
Remove the right front wheel and splash guard (rubber curtain) the starter will be right in front of you. You can not remove it from the bottom of the truck, it will not fit out that way. From the wheel well you will still need to manuever it around a bit, but that is how it comes out.
bottom left, next to the tension pully. must remove gravel shield to access
If you are just trying to replace the headlight bulb; 1. Turn on your lights to see which bulb is out.
2. Purchase bulb
3. unscrew the cap on the back of the bulb that is out.
4. Unplug the wires connect to the bad bulb.
5. Release the metal holder that holds the bulb in place, this involves pushing the holder in then down, sort of like opening a safety pin, you might want to use a long screwdriver to help you push the holder in and down as it is a cramped space. Once the holder pops open (it will not fall off, just open) remove the old bulb and replace with the new bulb.
6. You can use your long screwdriver to position the bulb but do noit put too much pressure on the bulb.
7. Once the bulb is in position, you can use your screwdriver to refasten the metal holder back to the closed positon.
8. Reconnect the wires.
9. Test the light.
10. if all is well, put the cap back on.
Although a car starter is a great concept, I definitely would not install it in a 1999 Intrepid. I have a 99 Intrepid, and have heard that that year was the worst for the Intrepid. I have had nothing but problems with my car, and have spoken to others with the same model and year as mine. A car starter can totally screw up the mechanics of a car, especially one with such a bad rep. Another thing is that if you need a starter, I would probably get a professional to do it. They might offer you some kind of a warranty.
Hey Carolyn==It isn't real hard but you need direction. Go to Auto zone or another parts store and get a manual on your car for about $18 and it should have pictures and everything. Good luck Joe
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http://youtube.com/watch?v=Ob8XTkphH6U
1993 Cadillac Deville Sedan Car Radio Wiring Guide Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 4″ x 6″
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
Taken from http://www.modifiedlife.com/1993-cadillac-deville-sedan-car-radio-wiring-guide/
And yes I know there are two other wires, I don't know where they go, but they are not needed in a new system as far as I know. Also, the dimmer wire may not be brown, but may not matter as most aftermarket systems don't use it anyway.
If the transfer case lever moves all the way, you likely have an issue with your lockers. If you have manual lockers, remember to first lock them! If you have locked them and they still don't engage, you may need to take them apart and clean+grease them. If you have the LSi Tracker, you have likely got the Auto locking hubs. Those are terrible as far as reliability. Auto lockers need to be cleaned and inspected every 15k if you want to be able to put any trust in them. If you have auto's try going about 3 feet in reverse after selecting 4WD. If you hear clicking, the lockers are attempting to lock, but can't. (They need servicing) Hope this helps! For all the answers you could ever need related to Suzuki Sidekicks, Geo Trackers, Chevy Trackers (pre 99... they are all the same) Go to http://www.kick-fix.com/ The guy is a genius.
on a 1984 caprice this is tricky but not very hard. First thing you do is remove negative battery connection and block back tires & set brake, then lift front pass side of car. Behind wheel there is a support that has to come off first. don't worry it's just a bracket for frame support, it wont hurt to remove this part for now. then you'll see 2 wires 1 big one that goes to battery positive, remove that connection first. then the little one next. now that the wires are off, look for two bolts ,they should be 9/16 or 14mm? one is long & one is short don't mix these up! some are the same size. loosen them slowly. the starter motor is heavy so be careful. once you remove bolts there might be a hold down or grounding bracket. remove & turn starter out! remember how you take it out, since it has to go back in the same way! reverse procedure to install.
Hello: You must first remove the battery. There is a clip on the front side of the battery that holds the bottom rim of the battery down. Unscrew the nut, remove the clip and slide the battery up and out. (First disconnect the cables) Then, there are four clips that hold the lid of the air cleaner compartment to the base. Unsnap these and the top comes off. Careful, the clips can fall off and are hard to reistall. Remove the old filter, and clean out the compartment, remove dust and dirt, and install new filter. Reverse the above steps and you are done.
The Grassland Biome and Tundra are different for many reasons. Grasslands have many different grasses, and have been known as the Breadbasket of the world. TUndras are cold and have less animals. There are only a few plants that can live in the tundra biome, because of permafrost. Grasslands are grassy. Tundra animals must migrate or hibernate in the cold times. Grasslands aren't too cold.
Tundra is a large flat area found in the artic regions of Europe, Asia and North America that is void of shrubs, trees, or any other form of vegetations and having the grounds below its surface layer of soil always frozen. Tundra could also be reffered to as ice desert.
barren lands located between isotherms 0 degrees and 10 degrees Celsius. The subsoil is permanentely frozen , allowing only small vegetation growth. GEO ACTIVE 1 SECOND EDITION CHAPTER 4
There is no cabin filter in a 2004 Tundra. Most Toyotas have them but not this particular year Tundra.
See http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_the_starter . In the service panel, under the drivers seat is where you start. You will find three main starter bolts, and a couple of smaller ones on a small plate on top and is used as a top brace, steadying the starter from the top. The main bolts you need to get to from underneath. If you are getting the intermittent clicks, there is some good news. I did the first one at 194k, and later found out you can just replace the copper "L" contacts inside the starter. Toyota dealers sell a rebuild kit for less than $15.00. It only includes the bigger of the two contacts (positive terminal), but that is generally all you will need. You will find the contacts by taking off the end, and removing two long bolts, and opposite the bell shaped end. The hardest thing is getting the starter out. The rest is easy.
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On my 1991 AWD, the two contacts were the same size (smaller). Only one was worn. The starter is easier to identify from underneath. The lower (17mm) bolt also holds a shaft bearing on the AWD. There are 3 14mm upper bolts; the middle one is shorter and does not need to be removed.
An example of parasitism in the Tundra is with the tape worm and caribou. The tape worm takes in the nutrients from the caribou. Soon, the caribou dies and the tape worm gets its food.
The V-8 holds 7 quarts of oil. The weight is 5w-30.
How to Change Your Motor Oil Introduction Plan to change your motor oil every 3,000 miles or every 3 months if you want to be on the safe side, but know that most cars no longer require an oil change after every 3,000 miles. You will not damage the engine by letting it run 4,000 miles in between oil changes. However, if you've been driving in very hot and/or dusty conditions you should stick to the 3,000 mile schedule, or even more frequent changes. Instructions Difficulty: Moderately Challenging Getting Ready Things You'll Need · Old Rags · Ratchet Sets · Car Jacks · New Oil Filters · Car Manuals · Funnels · Oil Drain Pans · Oil Filter Wrenches · Plastic Containers · Jack Stands · Rubber Gloves · Socket Sets · 4 - 5 quarts motor oil · Car Creepers Steps Step One Gather necessary tools and materials (refer to Necessary Items list). If you plan to change your oil regularly, consider investing in jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Step Two Run the car's engine for 10 minutes before you drain the oil. Warm oil drains faster than cold oil. Step Three Park the car on a level surface, engage the parking brake and turn off the engine. If your car has a low clearance, raise it by driving it onto a ramp or by jacking it up and supporting it securely. Step Four Open the hood and place the new oil and funnel on top of the engine to ensure that you won't forget to add oil afterwards (an expensive mistake that many do-it-yourselfers make!). Tips & Warnings · Consult your owner's manual or an automotive parts specialist to find out the weight of oil and type of oil filter your car needs. · You'll need the year, make, model and mileage of your car if you go to an auto parts store. · Make sure the car is securely supported before you crawl underneath. · You will need two jack stands to support the front of your car after jacking it up. Never get under a car that is supported only by a jack! A pair of jack stands costs less than $20. Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter Steps Step One Crawl under the car once it is securely supported. Step Two Locate the oil drain plug on the underside of the engine, usually near the front center of the car. Consult your owner's manual for the exact location. Step Three Place the oil drain pan under the plug and loosen the plug with a socket wrench. Remember: turn counterclockwise to remove bolts. Step Four Remove the plug by hand. Be prepared for the rush of hot oil! Step Five Let the oil drain into the pan. Hold onto the plug. Step SixReposition the pan, if necessary, to catch all the dripping oil. Step Seven Wipe off the drain plug and the plug opening when the oil finishes draining. Step Eight Replace the drain plug gasket. Step Nine Reinstall the plug. Always start threading any bolts or screws by hand to prevent cross threading. Step Ten Tighten with a wrench or socket. Be careful not to overtighten the plug. Step Eleven Locate the existing oil filter. Oil filters are usually on the side of the engine. Step Twelve Position the oil pan underneath the filter to catch any remaining oil. Step Thirteen Use an adjustable oil filter wrench to unscrew the old oil filter. Step Fourteen Use a rag to wipe the area where the filter mounts to the engine. Make sure the rubber seal of the old filter is not stuck to the engine. 15 Step Fifteen
Use some new oil to lightly coat the rubber seal of the new filter. Step Sixteen Screw the new filter into place by hand. It's usually not necessary to tighten the oil filter with the oil filter wrench, but have it at the ready if you're grip's not strong (or large) enough. Tips & Warnings · Wear gloves to remove the plug if it's hot. · It's always best to replace the oil drain plug gasket. · Use the right size wrench or socket. Don't use an adjustable wrench: you can strip the bolt. · Handle hot automotive oil with extreme care. · Be careful when removing the old oil filter. It's full of oil. Installing New Oil and Cleaning Up Steps Step One Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine. Remove it. Step Two Place the funnel in the opening and pour in the new oil. Typically, you will use 4 to 5 quarts of oil. Check your manual for the correct oil capacity. Step Three Replace the cap when you're finished. Step FourRun the engine for a minute, then check the dipstick. Add more oil if necessary. Step Five Check the area around the oil drain plug and the filter for oil leaks. Tighten the plug or oil filter if you find leakage. Step Six Use rags and newspapers to wipe away excess oil. Step Seven Pour the used oil into a plastic container after the used oil cools. Step EightDispose the used oil properly: either bring it to a recycling center or an auto repair shop that can recycle it for you. Don't pour it down the sewer! Tips & Warnings · Record the date and mileage after you change the oil so you will know when your car is due for another oil change. It helps to put a small sticker on your windshield to remind you. · Handle hot motor oil with extreme caution. · Only dispose of used motor oil and filters at authorized locations.