First make sure it is the starter that is at fault. Then take the neg battery cable loose at the batery. Then take off the wiring then the bolts holding it on and work it out.
You remove the black cover from the inside of the driver door and unbolt the old mirror then bolt up the new one and replace the cover.
There are 3 types of mirrors depending on model and options
1. a manual mirror that you have to reach out the window and move the mirror. 2. a manual mirror with an inside adjustment stick. 3. a power operated mirror.
The first two are easy, carefully pry of the black cover inside the car where the mirror is located, then remove the three screws and pull the unit off from the outside. Use care NOT to drop the screws down in the door. I have nevr replaced a power operated mirror so I am not sure how that part connects.
Many junkyard have mirrors. If you go to the junkyard they charge about $5-$8 for one. If you take this rout, be sure to take your current broken mirror with you as the mounting screw location are different on different years. Most VE and CE models use black mirrors, while the LE models have color matched mirrors.
If you need to buy a new mirror, Toyot charges about $120 for one but I bought one from partstrain.com for $65 plus s/h. Pefect fit.
Easy job. VBD
With a power mirror, you will have to remove the inside door trim. The power connection is about 4 inches below where the mirror's wires go behind the trim panel.
First, remove the inside trim panel at the mirror. Pry up the bottom of the panel, then swing it out and away. Don't remove the mirror's mounting nuts yet.
Second, remove the armrest by gently prying it up with a flathead screwdriver. Pry up the front of the panel with the door lock switch (and power window switch). Once you have the front up, slide it forward to remove or else you will break off a tab at the back (nearest the armrest). Disconnect the power door lock and power window buttons. Remove the two screws you have now exposed, and the third screw above the door handle.
Third, pry up the trim tabs on the door jamb side. Once these two or three are popped out you can usually pry out the bottom and hinge sides by hand. Lift the door trim panel up and out.
Fourth, carefully lift up only the corner you need of the weather cover and disconnect the power mirror socket. Now remove the mirror's mounting nuts and pull the mirror away from the car, threading the power wires out the hole.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Believe it or not you can not check the transmission oil on a 2008 Tundra with a 5.7 leader engine. It is designed to go 100,000 miles before servicing and IT MUST BY DONE BY THE DEALER. it has to be brought up to a certain temperature and need a special tool to check it. Talk to a Toyota service manager if you don't believe me.
I had a conversation with a service manager and he said "You can't believe how many people drain the transmission and then can't figure out how to refill it and have to tow it back here to get it fixed."
Also look in your "Owners Manual" and you will not find anything on servicing the transmission by the owner.
well since the starter is on the the bottom of the engine the easiest way is to pull the engine or getting it up on a lift and taking it out. BUT most of the time the easiest way is to pull the engine
I own a 93 and I just did it.... also I'm a mechanic sooo take off the intake and you can get at it easily
On a 1993 the starter is easily removed with only two nuts and two bolts. Remove the large nut on the large wire from underneath. Remove the lower starter bolt, using and extension have someone looking from the top observe the socket and the bolt head have them direct the socket to find the head of the bolt. It hard to see and they have to look through a small slot in the manifold. Remove the bolt. Lower the starter and remove the last small nut holding the wires. PS I'm not a mechanic.
remove battery cable then remove the 3 wires from back of the starter... 1 will just plug in (the very small 1 ).. one will be power and the other will be ground there are only 2 bolts in the starter 1 on top 1 on bottom the bottom will be a little hard to get to if u run in to trouble u can get me at firstname.lastname@example.org good luck
you can update your information in your account settings
See http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_the_starter . In the service panel, under the drivers seat is where you start. You will find three main starter bolts, and a couple of smaller ones on a small plate on top and is used as a top brace, steadying the starter from the top. The main bolts you need to get to from underneath. If you are getting the intermittent clicks, there is some good news. I did the first one at 194k, and later found out you can just replace the copper "L" contacts inside the starter. Toyota dealers sell a rebuild kit for less than $15.00. It only includes the bigger of the two contacts (positive terminal), but that is generally all you will need. You will find the contacts by taking off the end, and removing two long bolts, and opposite the bell shaped end. The hardest thing is getting the starter out. The rest is easy.
On my 1991 AWD, the two contacts were the same size (smaller). Only one was worn. The starter is easier to identify from underneath. The lower (17mm) bolt also holds a shaft bearing on the AWD. There are 3 14mm upper bolts; the middle one is shorter and does not need to be removed.
To re-set Toyota Highlander 'maintenance required' dashboard warning light: Turn on the ignition and observe the odometer window. Ensure that it is set on the totalaccumulated mileage of the vehicle (NOT the trip meter). Turn off ignition. With the ignition off - depress the little plastic switch that changes the odometer to the trip meter and then while holding the switch in the depressed position, turn on ignition (it is not necessarry to start the car). Continue holding the switch down for 5-10 seconds and you will see the odometer window flash back to zero. Release the switch and turn the ignition off, and it will be re-set for another 7,500 miles.
Pretty positive they don't have one.
4th gear is overdrive. the computer locks out overdrive until the transmission fluid is up to normal operating temperature. once up to normal temp, the vehicle will shift into overdrive and all is well. there is only a problem if the vehicle does not shift into 4th AFTER reaching proper operating temperature. The thinking is that the transmission warms up faster in 3rd than it would in 4th (overdrive). I believe this type of control is due to environmental laws, or fuel consumption considerations. what confuses me is that the recommended operating procedure when towing or hauling is to manually lock out overdrive in an effort to keep trans fluid cooler. here you have specia controls built into the vehicle to warm up tans fluid faster by using 3rd gear. then, once up to normal temp, you need to lock out 4th because trans fluid will run cooler in 3rd. very odd. I been trying to find out why this is for a long time.
My 2000 Avalon did not have a filter installed when I purchased it but don't worry, it is configured for a cabin filter to be installed. The procedure to install a cabin filter is no different than for the newer models. The instructions come with the cabin filter itself (Toyota part # 88880-41010).
1) Remove undercover. 2) Pop off the airbag harness cover with a screwdriver. 3) Pass the airbag harness cover through the opening. 4) Remove 3 screws and 2 bolts holding the glove box. 5) Remove trunk opener switch connector (if applicable) and remove the glove box. 6) Remove the filter tray and replace the filter (hold the left and right knobs at both ends of the filter case at the same time and pull out the knob to the front). 7) The filter must be assembled with the "UP" mark on the filter facing the same direction as the same mark on the filter case.
Right answer: do not mess with the airbag(dangerous!!) or yellow /white cables. open the glove box and let it fully open by squeezing the tabs that hold it up and any cables. you will see a slot that the filter goes in, usually has tabs that keep it shut. open the cover and remove the filter. this particular model may have to remove the sorrounding cover, just remove 4 or 5 screws that hold the sorrounding glove box assembly and reassemble.
YOU CANT TURN IT OFF!
2006 (and most likely every other year & model) can be programmed OFF at any dealership.
YOU CAN TURN IT OFF!
I need to know how to repair the power lock on my corola dx 95 rear right door
the door panel must be removed there is a electronic lock solenoid that controls the lock eods to door latch. if it grinds or makes noise replace solenoid if there is no noie check for a 12volt signal at plgs to lock solenoid if ther is no power sometime wire breaksin the door jam harness from opening and closing door wires bend back and forth and are known to break 80 % its the lock solenoid
Turn ignition off.
Hold in the same button you used in step 1.
While holding the button in, turn ignition to 'ON'.
The 'Maint Reqd' light should blink and go out.
If you wish to confirm, this info should be in your owner's manual.
-- for the 2004 Highlander
Same as above except turning to ON did not work for me but turning to ACC did.
For me..... and I have a 2005 Highlander, I had to hold the odometer button down for several seconds, In my case I had to hold it down for 6 seconds.
For my 2007 Highlander you turn the ignition to ACC press the odometer button, turn it to off, then turn it back to ACC (not "ON") while still keeping the button depressed. The dealership had it wrong, as well.
Distributer cap and rotors are common. Have seen reasonably new ones go bad on these. Also have seen leaking fuel rails under the plenum.
It's on the left (passengers) side of the front valve cover. There's a black hose going into it. It should just pull right out. When it's out it just looks like a nipple thing that rattles unless it's clogged.
Put the key into the ignition and press the odometer button. While holding down the odometer button, turn the key to the on position. You will see "-----"on the odometer display. It will count down "-----" "----" "---" "- -" "-". Then you will see zeros on the odometer display "000000". You can now release the odometer button. This will reset the maintenance light on your dash!!!!!!
1. Open the Hood. 2. Behind the headlamp assembly, there is a white sliding release tab. While pushing in on the headlamp assembly, pull up on the tab. It will move about 1 1/2 in. to a detent point. Do not remove it completely. 3. Pull out the headlamp assembly from the vehicle. Considerable force is required to unsnap two locating pins from their detents. In my case, it was easier to work from the inside. I got the tip of a pliers under the plastic and pried. 4. This is the tricky part that is ambiguous in the owners' manual (no picture). There is a gray plastic clip that must be completely removed, by pressing on on a tiny latch while prying/teasing with a screwdriver on both sides. It is small, so DO NOT LOSE IT IN THE RECESSES OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. Then separate the electrical connector. (Lamp replacement can probably be accomplished without separating the connector, but you must work in close quarters, and perhaps expose internal lighting parts to the elements. If you separate the connector, you can take it indoors and do it over a beer.) 5. Remove the outer of two rubbery black bulb access covers. 6. (Wear eye protection for this part, because the bulb is pressurized with a caustic halogen gas that can cause eye injury.) Turn the bulb assembly 1/4 turn clockwise and pull out from housing. 7. Separate the second electrical connector by lifting on the grey tabs while pulling apart. 8. Remove old bulb by pushing in and turning 1/4 turn counter-clockwise; install new bulb by reverse action. 9. Reverse previous actions. When replacing lamp assembly into vehicle, make sure that locating pins are lined up, and then rap sharply on both sides of the lamp assembly with the heels of your hand, or (not too hard) with a rubber mallet, to reseat the pins in their detents. 10. Push the white retaining slide back into its original position. 11. Reward yourself for a job well done.
== == they are however crush bearings and need a special tool to set torque to 155lbs.
89-98 covered here.
the tool is $80
== == 1993 and later use a sealed cartridge wheel bearing which is not repacked, only replaced as a unit...A locknut sets the bearing preload at 180 ft/lbs.. To replace, slip mark and remove hubs, remove lockplate, locknut, trust washer, and seal. Remove Hub and Wheel bearing snap ring and then bearing will probably need to be pressed out of the hub.. It is involved...(Get a good manual or a good mech)
I own both a 2008 tundra and a 2003 4Runner. Both of them have a cabin filter behind the glove box. Remove the glove box door and you will find it.
If it is like a 2004 Sorento 3.5 engine, you will have to remove a plastic cover bolted under the engine (5 bolts -12mm wrench), very easy to do, then you will see the oil filter on the engine's driver side toward the front of the engine, I do not do this when the engine is real hot as the filter is a bit awkward to get to. Hope this helps.
I have a 2007 Sorento and just changed the oil and filter. The plastic cover under the engine is the same as far as getting to the drain plug on the oil pan. However, the oil filter is located under the hood. It is at the rear center of the engine, next to the firewall. There is a black canister about 4" in diameter that has a screw cap cover. It's a little tricky to get the cover off the canister due to lack of room. You may have to remove the plastic cover that is mounted over the top of the engine to get it out. Once you do, the filter is nothing more than a paper cylinder that pulls out of the canister and the new one is popped back in place. Be sure the canister cover is screwed back on flush with the canister or it will leak. Nice idea from Kia....
I have a 2003 Sorento, the 2004 info above applies. FYI - used a 17mm wrench to remove drain plug. As for filter, note that KIA filter casing is wider (approx 3mm) than non KIA (FRAM) filter - does not matter as thread is the same. Since i had purchased a filter (cap) socket wrench for the replacement (FRAM), I was not able to use it to remove the KIA brand filter. Strap wrench barely worked. Getting the old filter out, well lets say that it went on quite a journey, the newer (narrower one) was easier to get in.
The top one should connect to the rear valve cover (nearest the firewall), while the lower one is meant to help drain any water that may wind up in the filter housing. Notice that the lower hose is too short to connect to anything nearby. Hope this helps.
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