Guessing and following advice from others is not the correct tire pressure. The correct tire pressure for your BMW is listed in the owners manual and on the drivers door post. That is the pressure recommended by BMW who designed your car and know what pressure is best.
There are three on most of the 535i's.
One up front which is only used on diagnostic.
The two used by the ECU are nearest the clutch ( if standard) or on the drivers side lower bellhousing.
Two connectors run up to the metal brace, then into the firewall.
Two are identical. Each is REQUIRED for running.
i believe that means that the steering wheel locks up in park for safety, until you put in the key and jiggle the wheel to unlock.
I just changed my glow plugs in the same car. It's a 97, though, so it may be a little different.
1) Remove the piece of plastic that covers part of intake manifold
2) Remove the intake manifold taking note of of the small hoses underneath
the manifold and disconnecting the large intake air duct at the front.
3) Remove the electric wire on the top of the plug. Try not to loose the nuts.
4) Remove the glowplug itself
5) Insert new glowplug
6) Attach electrics
7) Move to the next plug
It wasn't to hard to accomplish. I changed all 6 plugs in about 2 hours once i figured out I had to remove the intake manifold.
how do I reset tne brake pad sensor light on a 1997 BMW 318i
Found this on another site. It worked on my E46 2002 Compact.
BMW 2001 to current Ignition Off (Position 0) Press and Hold the trip odometer button while turning key to position 1 (ACCESSORY) Keep the button depressed (about 5 secs.) until you see "Oil Service" or "Inspection" with "Reset" or "Re" in the display* Press the button again and hold for approx. 5 secs. until "Reset" or "Re" flashes While the display is flashing, briefly press the button again to reset the Service Interval. After the display has shown the new interval you should see "END SIA" for about 2 seconds Note: that if the "Reset" or "Re" does not flash, then you have not met the minimum consumption level and cannot reset
Just type in BMW p codes and go through them.
The only way I have found so far is to buy a service reset tool. Go to http://www.bavauto.com/se1.asp?dept_id=375 and you can buy one with a built in code reader as well. I would imagine there is a way to do it without the tool, but I have not discovered it as yet. edit by copteaser: There is a manual way and it's farely easy.
the source of my info you can find at the following urls:
http://www.e46.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38&highlight=&sid=69344d53c41665daa55f062d06e6eafd RESETTING OIL SERVICE INDICATOR:
If your OBC needs to be reset after completing your oil change, there are two ways. NOTE: If you miss a step, just turn the key back off and try again:
A. Model Year 1999 to Mid-2000: You should have the older round 20-pin DLC connector under your hood behind the battery terminal, you need to use a small length of wire to connect (short) pins 7 and 19 for 3-5 seconds with the ignition key in position 1 (Accessory).
B. After Mid-2000: You should not have the 20-pin DLC connector. You only need to hold the left odometer reset button while turning the key to position 1 (Accessory). Keep holding the button for 5 or so seconds until any of the following shows in the display: OIL SERVICE or INSPECTION with RESET or RE. Release the button and press it again for another 5 or so seconds until RESET or RE flash. While the display flashes, press the button one more time briefly. If done correctly, END SIA should show up for a few seconds. All done.
I had the same problem - the LR dealer changed the sensor on the front left wheel and reset the computer: it was the sensor on wheelAnswerYou will find that your traction contol has failed or your abs system has a failure, probably a sensor on your wheel or the abs module ,regardless ,it needs attention.my disco is in for same problem at the moment ill keep you posted on the exact findings. Rob... Answerit was the sensor on wheel AnswerRob here again .....back to dealer 4 times ,excuse after excuse,water on sensor, loose sensor ,oh you have a problem....modulator faulty. we will and did replace .three months down the track. the three amigos. abs tc down hill assist lights back on. my opinion? Do not buy any disco that that has those lights on,it seems to me that it is a very common problem with landrover vehicles it costs heaps to fix .2000 odd dollars and landrover pretend its not a problem. Oh i never heard of it before they will say.freelanders also have this problem or one similar.Get real Landrover! A recall is needed, its your brakes that are playing up,iwould love to see or here how many people are having this problem.
RobAnswerI have a 99 dico II and same problem. No one seems to know what it is or how to fix it. Everyone just wants to charge you to do a diagnose and tell to take it to the dealer. Next time ill buy a cheap SUV. AnswerGenerally when this happens you will need to replace your front pads and rotors with LandRover parts, also for assurance if the code is for a certain sensor it will need to be repalced with the newer style that eleminates the abs sensor connector. The other cause of these lights can be the shuttle valve in the abs modulator. your scan tool schould tell you what is going on. Answertake the vehicle to a land rover specialist. not the dealer. have it checked to see the problem. alot of chain part stores have the obdII scanners and they will scan the system for you. most don't charge to do it. they want you to buy the parts there. the common factor of all three lights is the sensor. the next step up is the CPU. One thing to check on all rovers is the electrical grounds. Mine has four different ones. They can loose the ground on one and can cause similar problems. You may also want to check on landroverforums.com. lots of good info. lots of people that are smarter than me. hope it helps. duboff
If you don't use your Traction control, Down hill, you can also turn the damn lights off. I think that I put 2000 bucks into this before I gave up. I simply unscrewed the dash, pulled the plastic cover and put fire resistance fabric in the holes where the lights are. Guess what? No problem.
The real answer
the three amogos are usually caused by the rusted or damaged reluctor ring on one of the wheel hubs, the speed sensor cannot determine the correct wheel speed, it sees 1 wheel going 60 mph and because the sensor thinks the other wheel is going 65 mph, so the computer sends a fault code.....so the warning lights come on..........your abs and traction control are at odds with each other......thinking the wheel is loosing traction or skidding ? So you get the lights.....the hub or speed sensor must be replaced.........the trick is to find out which wheel or hub has the problem, the tolerance is critical with the sensor because it "sees" the wheel speed by a frequency of the wheel spinning by the sensor and reluctor ring........not a job for an amateur repairman.......it's your brakes ....do it right, is it worth risking an accident ? ............ it could cause an accident that is much more expensive than leaving it go, .......and blocking the lights out of the dash module is just plain ignorant the problem still exists that's how someone gets screwed...that rover will be sold to an unsuspecting family that does not know better.......can you say LAWSUIT?
You have had a loss of power to the radio (such as when the car battery is changed), or the radio has been replaced or disconnected from the car's wiring harness. This is a theft deterrent because the stolen radio is useless to someone without the activation code. This code can be obtained from a dealer or it is found on a small plastic card that is part of the original owner's materials. Number is usually 5 digits. When you turn on the radio and the readout says 'CODE', enter the number by using the numbered station selection buttons (which are numbered 1-2-3-4-5-6). If the radio beeps when you are entering the number, start over. If it keeps beeping, you have the wrong code number (which might be the case if the radio has been replaced). Note: The 'CODE' button located on the small computer face to the right of the radio (with the date, mileage, temperature, etc) has NOTHING to do with the process or the radio 'CODE'.
Next to the oil filter inside the engine bay
http://bmwnavaddpoi.co.uk has a (free) manual way of doing this, or http://pimp-my-nav.com has a tool that can automate the process.
It should have the head checked for cracks otherwise it should run ok. The price depends on what part of the country you live in.
DEPENDS. If it is the 24 valve OHC engine, the thermostat is on the passenger side, front, bottom of the engine. It's a little hard to get to but just two bolts.
easy to raise car on stands remove lower splash shield remove hoses even snake hose under shroud
remove fan 32mm REVERSE THREAD
dont pull out yet allow to rest on bottom shroud
unclip two clips on fan shroud
unsnap both braces holding radiator
pull up on shroud
pull rad. up out of cassette
installation reverse of removal
IT IS ESSENTIAL TO FOLLOW BLEED PROCEDURE ON THESE ENGINES THE COOLING SYSTEMS ON THE M52 AND M52 TU ARE DIFFERENT
REFER TO BMW TIS ONLINE
It varies with what part of the country you live in. Call a couple of local garages and get estimates. Goodluck. Joe
The cost is also going to depend on the make/model of your vehicle and other repairs that may be necessary. Cheaper repairs may not include resurfacing or complete diagnostics, so cheaper is not always better. If you are not going to consider doing the job yourself then call around to a few "brand name" mechanics and then a few small ops mechanics to get a good idea of what the repair will cost. Ask them whats included (no $urprises later) and always assume that if they will not take a little time to talk to you about it then they may not take the time to double check their work or do it right the first time. There will certainly be at least one mechanic shop that will have complete answers, offer a willingness to help and explain the process, and fair prices too.
bmw e39 fuel tank capacity
I was told by a mechanic I called that to replace the headgasket for a 95 sw1 will be around 800-1100 depending on how much machining is needed.
SOHC engine is known for cracking heads. Reman head from Saturn is approx $300. If you need a head I/d say at least 1000
WHERE DO YOU GET A REPLACEMENT IN DASH PUSH IN CUP HOLDER FOR THE 2001 S40 VOLVO? FIRST :) I already have the new cup holder from Volvo! How do I replace it? You have the actual guestion listed, now where do I find the answer????
In the trunk. Open the compartment closest to the trunk door on the right side of the trunk, the fuses are in there.
There is also one in the glove compartment. Look for two white knobs and turn them. The fuse box should drop down
Well it will cost an avg about 600-800 dollars to get it repaired depending on the the type of car and size of engine and some the will look at it and add on some money for how hard it will be to get access to it.
Left of the sterring whell, down near hood release.
I believe there is. I drive a 99 model. I was trying to fix my cigarette lighter last night and the owners manual indicated that there are fuse boxes in one of the side compatments in the boot (it is a touring model) and one other location. Sorry I can't be more precise but I'm away from the car right now. The fuse panel for cig. lighter is in the right rear of the trunk, above the battery.
The "EML" warning light in a BMW indicates a problem with the "drive by wire" throttle control system." "EML" is an acronym for "Elektronische Motorleistungsregelung". Loosely translated from the original German for the BMW owner means Electrionic Engine Power Control.
"EML" is BMW's system name for electronic throttle management. The "EML" system, in it's most basic sense consists of an accelerator pedal (with an electronic position sensor), a computer module (usu. integrated with the main engine computer), and an EDK (Elektronische Drosselklappe or Electronic throttle valve). The EDK is also known as a "drive by wire" throttle. "EDK" throttles use a computer controlled stepper motor rather than a purely mechanical linkage (usu. metal cable attached directly to the accelerator pedal) to control the opening and closing of the throttle plate. "Drive by wire" throttles are very common on modern vehicles starting in the late nineties up through the present day. "Drive by wire" technology enables very precise throttle control to improve drivability and vehicle emissions, as well as many convenience features like electronic cruise control, traction control & stability control.
BMW first implemented "drive by wire" in very limited quantities on the most expensive & sophistocated BMW models starting in 1988. The latest generation of advanced vehicle features to take advandage of "drive by wire" technology are radar guided cruise control, accident avoidance control, autonomous-driving, and autonomous-parking systems.
you do not ever have to replace the battery because there is no servicable battery to replace, there is a capacitor inside the key and that is used for the buttons to unlock and lock the. the way the capacitor charges is when its in the igntion and the key is turned on a antenna ring charges the capacitor. if the key does not work you may have to drive the vehicle a while, about 30 mins to charge the capacitor, or you may have to reinitalize it ( see dealer), or the key itself may just be defective and have to replaced.
The X-5 (and other BMWs) could easily have the Comfort Access option where you can leave the key in your pocket or bag and open/close and start the car without putting the fob in the ignition. These "keys" DO NOT charge in the ignition, they contain finite life batteries that need to be changed when they die. Easy process that's noted in the manual.
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