Nissan Sentra

There is something to remember about vehicle warning lights, they perform much like traffic lights do, red means stop, something is seriously wrong, but yellow means it is just an advisory, a caution if you will that something needs attention, but is not going to cause you to immediately stop driving. The Service engine soon, or Check engine light is one of these advisory lights. The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area. That means that you have a sensor in your engine that is sensing something is wrong with the engine, or that the sensor itself has gone bad. When the Service Engine Light, refered to as a SES light, is on, you might notice a fuel milage decrease, or that your engine isn't running as smooth, or a disturbing smell out of your exhaust, and you might notice something in your tranny isn't shifting right, or?. There are alot of different posibilitys, and you should get it looked at and fixed. The on-board diagnostic computer has retained an error code. This code (or possibly several codes) can be read to help determine what sensor had the error, and what needs fixing (if anything). For example, a misfire will light the SES light, but will go out after several error-free starts. Autozone will read the codes for free, and print out a description for you if you want. A dealer charges $ for the same thing.

By law, it's optional for sole proprietors. Reality can be different though. In the construction trades most general contractors will require any subs who are sole proprietors to have workmans comp. This is what their insurance companies require. If a sub doesn't have workmans comp the insurance company adds their wages to the gc's bill.

Removing the headliner board from a 96 Nissan Sentra is not too complicated - 1st you remove the visors, hangers and anything else that attaches through the headliner and then you remove the headliner plastic trim. The board should fall free so it can be removed from the car through the front passenger door.

Weak solder joint when mfg.? Excessive water pressure due to: 1) Bad radiator cap 2) Plugged radiator 3) Thermostat not opening 4) By-pass hose crimped or plugged 5) Leaking head gasket(s) Possibly the radiator hose was weak. So in other words, a bad radiator hose.

I did it on a 95 (97 should be similar). You start by removing negative battery post, removing radiator fan that's close to the alternator, and move away any little hose(s) and/or wires around it to gain access to the alternator. Loosen the locknut on the adjuster, then you can turn the adjuster and the alternator belt will come loose. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts (2 of them), alternator will come out. Installation is the reverse. It's very tight in there doing this way, but you don't need to jack up anything, or removing anything major. Patience, good tools, and little bit of time. New (not rebuilt) alternator will cost around $110 shipped. 1996 Sentra: Just did it. Did not remove radiator fans but removed bracket (1 12mm bolt) that has the cable tie-down and top bolt of alternator. '96 does not have any adjustments on the alternator, as in for belt tightening. I ended up removing the idler pulley to loosen the belt. There are two (2) bolts on the bottom, one of which is tough to see or access. I removed the overflow reservoir for coolant just so I could see it. Going back in, I almost needed an assistant to start the top bolt, as I applied force to get the alternator in position. Patience advice is good; try to start before 3:30 PM if you want to finish the same day. I just did this on a 97 Sentra. It is a big pain. That alternator is really hard to get to. You have to remove the radiator fan...You also need to remove the coolant hose and the bracket that holds your wires in place. The bolts on the bottom are really hard to get to and maneuver around and are tight as hell. It is very tight quarters in there. Hard to loosen anything. Once you get all your bolts out, and remove the belt (which can be done by simply loosening the alternator and rocking it back and forth to release tension) you really need to work that thing back and forth to get it out. And it is very tight trying to get it out of there. Installation is basically the opposite. Getting the belt back on is the hardest part. There is a tension rod on the lower left side (looking at the engine) w/ an 8mm bolt on it. ONce again very hard to get to and work on w/ tools. This needs to be loosened in order to set the tension for re-installing the belt. Took a long time and a lot of muscling to get the belt back on there. Once it's on tighten that adjuster rod and make sure yer belt is tight. Replace everything and you're good to go. All in all, frustrating and poorly designed. Patience and small hands will help you out alot. I just changed the alternator on a '96 Sentra - day one involved removal of old alternator - passenger side fan and overflow tank had to be removed. I left the rad hose as-is. The used $75 CDN alternator from recycler was not exactly the same. After a few frustrating hours trying to get the "new" one in, I realized that the casting boss near the idler was about half an inch wider, therefore the original 14 mm/M10 bolt was about half an inch too short. I went to a fastener store, bought a 40 mm long M10 bolt and thought I was in business, until realizing that the same thicker boss was also contacting the threads of the tensioner rod. A few minutes of filing off some material off the bottom of the boss provided the clearance required to no longer contact the tensioner bolt. As well, the tensioner was stuck in place, making belt replacement impossible. The alternator had to be removed again, the tensioner pulley 14 mm bolt loosened so that the pulley could be slid in its slot. We put the belt back on, and tightened the 14 mm tensioner pulley bolt, then the 8 mm tensioner rod and then the 14 mm tensioner set screw bolt. Frustrating, yes, but mostly because the replacement alternator wasn't exactly the same, so double check before installing. It will likely still work, but may need some minor modification.

Now If you just bought it, NOW and every 24K miles thereafter. Oil change at 4K miles. Timing belt every 60K miles. You should change it NOW if you just bought it. All this is assuming you DONT know the cars maintainance record for certain. if its a 93 93 Sentra has a timing chain - no need to change every 60k. Most Sentra's Has timing chains as opposed to belts on some cars. You might not need to changed the chains but for an engine with 210k miles, changing it might be a good idea. From personal experience, timing chain should last for a long time, They use an adjuster that works very well so stretching is not a problem. I had one with 345,000 on it and it ran perfectly. I used Synthetic 5w-20 and changed it every 5000 miles. Platinum plugs changed every 100,000 miles and wires every 50,000.

Before beginning any work, make sure to disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. I've replaced a starter in my Nissan, it was a 5 speed not a auto.If it is a manual you have to remove your cluch pedal link that's connected to the transmission .From there you have two bolts to remove for the starter from the transmission.I believe it is a 14mm socket one side you'll need a extension. Make sure to unplug all the wires to the starter.I believe the auto is the samething.If this helps or you need more info just write to my e-mail. I still have my 1992 Nissan. Simple thing to do-And I am no automechanic by any means. Remove battery cables to avoid shocking yourself....buy ramps from craigslist....ramp and remove anything in the way....which if you buy the 6 inch extension for your ratchet (which you will need to buy to get past something on the top bolt) you almost don't even have to move anything.....except the oil filter which I think if you wanted you might be able to jiggle it out even around that...since it is only about 3 pounds (compared to 15-20 pounds in a truck starter)...but the two bolts that hold a starter in are simple to remove once you find them.....It takes an hour just to ramp and find the starter. The easy way to find it is to follow the negative battery cable which is black with a yellow stripe or two.....and the bottom one is easy to reach but hard to find while laying under the car..... I suggest removing the starter and taking it to the store for testing first...and if it tests bad....then you don't have to shell out 32 dollars for the core charge....and you know the actual problem is the starter. So the oil will drip on you and you will be working under a car which can be a little scary....but the bolts came out easy on mine....and when you put it back in make sure you tighten them or you will be back under there the next day tightening them like I was. As a side note: this problem hit us in one morning....no warning...so I thought it might be a bad problem since usually starters go slowly...but ours just died...probably just the selonoid which could have probably been repaired...but for 90 dollars I would rather just replace the whole thing. Additional info: The starter is tucked up under the intake manifold. It is held on by two 14mm bolts. One is accessed best from under the car. The answer above suggests removing the oil filter. That is messy. I recommend removing the "A" shaped intake manifold brace. It is held in by three 12mm bolts. With that out of the way, access to the bolt is much easier. The other bolt is easily reached from on top of the engine. It is the same bolt that the battery ground is attached to. You also have to remove the main power cable from the end of the solenoid and there is a clip on electrical connection on the starter bracket. I found that a swivel adapter and a long extension made getting at the lower bolt much easier. One hour to get it out and less than an hour to get it back in.

um....if you dont see two white lines there than they rubbed off. There should be a raised mark on both the engine and the flywheel. the timing marks are put on there with chalk so you may have to redo them.

They use a chain, so don't worry about a belt.

Automobile PCV valves can leak oil. Not sure where it is on that model;it will be attached to a hose assembly to let air from the crankcase (bottom of the engine) get sucked back into the intake (top of the engine). Answer The pcv value is located on the value cover next to the oil cap. The pcv value has a hose attached to it that goes from the pcv value to the bottom of the fuel injector. Once you remove this hose, the value can be easily removed with a 3/4" or 20mm wrench.

It means take the car to the dealer for its scheduled maintenance. You can also check for a reset button for your vehicle. In a certain number of miles the check engine light will come on you you can take it to the dealer and they can charge you $50 to $100 dollars to reset it. They won't tell you your vehicle has a reset button they will tell you to bring it in. its probably just the oxygen sensor. have it looked at/ its not that serious Mine came on at 105K kms (~ 65K miles). I bought an OBD II Code reader off of Ebay for $50 and found out that the 'System was too lean' So it's not serious in my case. But I haven't taken any steps to fix it. A friend recommends I take care of it since a lean system can cause wear to the valves. Mine came on at roughly 80k, the engine would stall while I was breaking, and excelleration became difficult. I had the code read and it was I believe bank 1 sensor 2...system too lean. I had it diagnosed and its the mass airflow sensor. You can take this part out and have it cleaned or you can spend the 500-600 on the part from Nissan (not including labor time) because they insist the car will chew up and spit out generic brand sensors (nissans are nitorious for it ANYWAY!) A code reader for your car is a pretty good investment. Two or three uses will generally pay for it. If your code indicated something like a defective oxygen sensor or a mass air flow sensor, you would probably want to get that fixed because most of the errors you see will affect gas mileage and at todays prices, can you afford to ignore it?

95 200sx Nissan 1.6l timing chain marks? The haynes manual diagram sucks

You take the bolts out of it.... replace with new starter and put the bolts back in Although Chiltons shows the removal of the starter from the car, I can't find the location of the starter under the hood. I think it's quite a distance from the battery, but I'm unsure. Can someone help me - I'm a beginner. Also, Chiltons refers to labeling the wires before removing the starter.... Is a wire directly connected to the battery from the starter? If yes, is it the positive or negative wire. The starter for a 92 Nissan sentra is located above the oil filter. It is not hard to change out. Remove the air filter assbly. Reach down under the air intake mess and remove the first bolt 14mm. Secondly locate a big wire (yellow and black) on the front of the transaxle with a bolt going thru it. Remove that bolt. It goes through the cowling and screws into the top hole on the starter. Swing the starter up and turn and remove wire. 13 mm bolt. Reverse process to install. I used a Beck Arnley rebuilt part number 187-0387.

See the following link. I am about to undertake the process myself so I will keep you posted about how it goes.... http://www.findonefindall.com/nissansentra/nissansentrap0335.htm

We have a 97 Nissan Sentra GXE that would not start for no apparent reason. We were told that if the oil was too low it had a built in safety that would make it not start or that it had lost compression. WARNING THIS ADVICE IS HORRIBLE, IT WAS GOOD FOR NON-COMPUTER CONTROLLED VEHICLES 70's INTO THE 80's, IF YOU FOLLOW THIS ANSWER DON'T BE SURPRISED IF YOU FRY YOUR ECM! If you want to check to see that your battery is good and you can't get the car started, you jump the car and get it running...while it's running you disconnect the POSITIVE wire off the battery (only the red one because neg. is your ground), if your car dies out it could be your alternater that is draining your battery charge. It more than likely is a sticking starter. My 97 Sentra did the same thing last week. It ran fine and never gave me any problems whatsoever, then all of a sudden.....nothing. I had the battery tested and it tested out fine. I then gave the starter a good couple of taps and it started up. Needless to say, I replaced the starter and have had no other problems since. The starter circuit in any car generally consists of the battery, the solenoid , the starter and the connecting wiring. Controlling the solenoid, which in turn controls the starter, is the key switch and associated wiring. First, using a voltmeter while cranking the engine, check the battery voltage on the battery terminals, then check the voltage on the battery connectors, then between ground and both sides of the solenoid (large) terminals, then at the starter terminal itself. Where you find a large drop in voltage is where the trouble is. If you try to crank the engine and you get little or no voltage beyond the solenoid, then it's time to check out the key circuit or the solenoid itself. As to a sticking starter, if you hear the starter spinning but hear no engine cranking, then the starter gear is not moving out to engage the flywheel and replacing the starter would be an option unless you are a do it yourselfer.

I saw a Sentra with a visor that wouldn't stay up. The owner had taken sticky backed velcro and attached small pieces to the roof and the mating piece to the back of the visor. It seemed to work well, but I think the sticky might let go in very hot weather. A lot of sellers on eBay have the sun visor clips for sale. Best of luck! <Correction> The sun visor on my 1997 Nissan Sentra wont stay up either. On close inspection it has nothing to do with the sun visor clips. It looks like the dysfunction is within the visor itself. I don't see any way to repair this without buying a new/used visor.

The mounting screws sheer on installation. The only way to remove them is to drill them out.

To do the job correctly, get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM which will help on the next repair.

38 psi

Read your owner's manual. Today's vehicles use platinum tipped plugs. They are good for at least 100,000 miles unless they fail which would cause severe missing and a severe drop in fuel mileage. If you have regular service done, have the mechanic check them.

Had to take mine to the dealer and pay $65.00. Don't think you can get to it yourself. I couldn't without dismantling half the engine compartment. If you remove the cool air intake on drivers side you will have easy access to the head lamps. On the passenger side you will have to remove the windshield washer fluid tank. Remember that your low beams and high beams are two completely different head lamps. Unlike other head lamps where both high and low beams are in the light bulb. That did help.....THANKS! its not as hard as they make it out to be. Just be careful not to break one of the air intake clips like i did...it snapped right off... For the passanger side low beam lights...This is slightly inaccurate. You must first remove two screws holding the radiator overflow container -- no need to remove the hose, just position the whole assembly out of the way. Next twist off the long tube that attaches to the windshiled wiper fluid container. You will now have room to work. Twist the grey cover on the back on the lowbeam lens assmebly about 1/4 turn until it comes off the lens assembly, this may take some effort and you may have to move it back and forth several times. You will see a wire clip, reach down near where the ground wire comes in and unhook the spring like clip. Move it out of the way. You can now remove the bulb. The low beam bulbs for the left and right side are the same. In my case, neither the bulb nor the fuse blew. The contact between the base of the bulb and the spring clip was faulty. The resistance made the base of the bulb overheat which melted the lens assembly. I had to cut out a thin metal collar to go over the base to support the bulb in the lens assembly and then put it all back together. Remember not to touch the bulb, and if you do wite it down with alchol before installing. Great info! Changing the passanger low beam bulb only took fifteen minutes. My local Nissan dealership wanted one hundred and fifty dollars. Thanks. Actually took longer to find the bulb than it did to change it. AutoZone didn't carry it in inventory - could order it - but, CarQuest had it in stock - less than six bucks. Thanks loads for the info. Saved a bundle... Note that in June 2007 I found the lamp (Sylvania H1) right on the hooks on the Auto Zone sales floor here in the Cincinnati area. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the entire assembly in place. Pull out the assembly; this may take some effort since the bottom corner of the assembly is attached to the fender with a spring clip that tends to rust and stick. Once the assembly is out, everything is easy to get to and you won't cut yourself on the sharp metal edges found in the engine compartmen. This pertains to the 2005 Altima and perhaps the 2006. There are two 10mm bolts on the top of the headlight and a pin on the inner side (towards the grill) of each light (which pulls straight out towards the front of the car). HOWEVER, there is a third bolt hidden by the front bumper covering on the outside front of the headlight. This is completely covered by the fascia of the bumper. I had to partially remove the front inner fender (one small bolt, three Phillips screws and plastic removable push pin/rivets (reusable), then reach under the now exposed insides near the headlight to remove a 10mm bumper bolt, and partially drop the bumper fascia to reach the hidden bolt. This allows the whole headlight assembly to be removed and easily access the back and all of the lamps. I did this so I could install aftermarket h.i.d. (high intensity discharge) headlamps in my car. I have installed h.i.d.s on a number of cars, but this was by far the worst and most time consuming of any of them. It really helps to know about that third hidden bolt! On my 2002 Altima, I tried replacing on my own but managed to break the clip that holds the bulb in, so ended up taking it to the dealer anyway. In the end, the dealer said that this year of Altima had a voluntary recall on the headlamp, so they replaced both bulbs for free. So, before you try replacing the bulb, it might be worth taking it to the dealer to check if your year falls under that recall. Didn't find info on this particular recall on the Nissan website, but did find it on other websites after doing a search on altima headlamp recalls.

1. REMOVE CABLES FROM YOUR BATTERY. 2. JACK YOUR CAR AND SET IT ON JACK STANDS 3. YOUR STARTER SITS ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE OIL FILTER. YOU WILL NEED A 12mm AND 14mm SOCKET AND TWO EXTENTIONS. 4. FIRST REMOVE THE UPPER BOLT OF THE STARTER. FOLLOW THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE AND YOU'LL SEE IT LOOKING FROM THE TOP LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE. YOU'LL NEED AN EXTENTION AND A 14mm SOCKET FOR THIS. WHILE YOU ARE HERE ALSO DISCONNECT THE GRAY PLASTIC CONNECTOR ON THE STARTER. 5.REMOVE THE BRACKET THAT MOUNTS TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND THE ENGINE (SITS AT ABOUT 45 DEG). THIS BRACKET HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE STARTER BUT MAKES LIFE A LOT EASIER WHEN TAKING OUT THE STARTER. THESE ARE 12mm BOLTS THAT HOLD THE BRACKET IN PLACE. 6.NOW REMOVE THE POSITIVE CABLE (12mm) FROM THE STARTER. THIS IS THE AFT STUD ON THE SOLENOID. 7. REMOVE THE BOTTOM MOUNTING BOLT. (again 14mm bolt) 8. PULL OUT THE STARTER. (PRETTY EASY IF YOU HAVE THE CAR RAISED) INSTALL IN REVERSE ORDER. HAVE FUN

Not sure on a '94, but on a '90 w/ a 1.6 you just remove the pulley bolts on the water pump, take off the pulley and belt, remove the thermostat housing on the side of the water pump, and then remove the water pump bolts. After that you can take off the water pump.

Call the "ZONE". www.autozone.com The cost of replacing a part is a very general question that unless specified exactly is hard to answer. First, is who is replacing the part? Is the Dealer, an independent repair shop, a junkyard, the guy next door or you doing the replacement. These will all yield different prices. Not to mention that within all of these will be different labor rates and different part price mark ups. Second, what is the quality of the part? Is it a name brand, generic (white box, economy), OEM or used part? All of these will be different. Price will even differ between name brands, sometimes significantly. Thirdly, What is the warranty of the part and who is offering the warranty (the shop the parts house or the manufacturer). Limited Lifetime will have restrictions. Lifetime warranty isn�t always the best part either. Fourthly, Each vehicle can have different options that will affect how long it takes to change a part or make it call for a different part. Such as heavy duty cooling system, air conditioning, 4x4�s may have a steel plate that may need removal, Automatic or manual transmission, the list goes on. Fifthly, What additional parts will be required? Long life coolant or standard coolant, R12 or R134a air conditioning freon if it needs to be discharged or replaced? Additional adapters other fluids that may need to be added or changed? All of this will affect price. Sixthly, is the car a new car or an older car? Labor manuals or guides are set up based on a new car. Additional time may be required due to seized or rusted bolts, additional aftermarket accessories that were installed etc. So you can see where there is a great potential for variances. I offer this insight: If you take it to an independent garage like I always recommend, consider how long they have been in business. What is the quality of there work, are they honest? (see the FAQ how do you choose an auto repair shop for additional insights).

overdrive is turned off. This is usually controlled by a button on the shifter knob. Press it to turn of the overdrive, push it again to turn it back on.