That will be something to do with your brakes on that wheel. You may have a stone wedged between the pad and the disc, or your pads are completely worn. Take the car to a brake specialist. If you are confident in removing the wheel safely, inspect the brake assembly once the wheel is removed. You should see a smooth disc and a pad/caliper assembly 'clamped' around the disc, like a hand holding a frizbee. Inspect the pad for anything obviously wrong.

Not really a hard proceddure. Your biggest challenge will be to reset the timing on the engine, but can be done relatively easily if done right. Simply mark timing belt, Cam gear, and top of block with a permanent marker. Good idea is to rotate engine by using a large socket on the crankshaft until timing marks line up, then mark all items (timing belt, Cam gear, and top of block) First, you've got to remove all the items connected to the head itself, (carb assembly and any other items). A good idea is to take some digital photos of the top, side and all items connected to the head so you can reference when re-assembling later. After removing all components, remove the valve cover. Once removed, you'll have to take out all the head bolts. These will be REALLY tight due to each bolt being torqued. Remove the head, use a large plastic mallet (hammer) and loosen the head by tapping on the sides. Once loose, remove the head and place on a soft surface (several layers of cardboard) Use a putty knife and remove the old head gasket. Scrape any residual oil build up or other material from head and top of engine block. Place new head gasket on the engine block in accordance with service manual or MFG recommendations. Carefully replace head on top of the head gasket and place head bolts into holes you removed them from. Tighted down with regular socket drive until nice and snug. Use torque wrench and tighten bolts using star method as indicated in service manual or ask anyone who's worked on engines to show you. Reset Cam and timing marks with marks you made and replace the timing belt. Use photos you took prior to disassembly to place all items back on the head.

An Average cost on this repair is about $140-$150. The price could drop or raise based on the worker, shop and other charges and taxes.

Try the injector cleaner that goes in the fuel tank. If mmore is required, take it to a garage.

If you 07 Nissan sentra and has manual transmission, you have a big link in your Slave cylinder inside of your transmission and it will burn your clutch and Nissan will charge you $1600.00 Dollars to repair even if fall in powertrain warranty.

fyi, is a good car but Nissan sucks

even I got video and pictures of this mess

Bortiz7623@yahoo.com

How fix code P1140

500000000000000000000000000000000000 bucks

3 quarts according to my 98 200sx se-r owners manual.

It cost me $80.00, Thermostat around $26.00 $4.00 for coolant & $50.00 for labor, its around 1 or 1/2 hr job.

Should be located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator

Remove this housing

Make note how thermostat is installed

Clean both surfaces

Install new thermostat and gasket

Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an air locck

Start engine and look for leaks

Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on

Re-check coolant level

You need to remove the exhaust system which is below the oil pan. Once the exhaust is removed, you have to remove engine brace which will be the way. Also, you have to remove one transmission bolt to get the dust cover off There are 10- threaded bolt/screw (phillips #2), 2- 10mm bolts in front of pan and two #10 nuts in the rear. You have to remove the dust cover for the flywheel to access the 10mm nuts. The transmission and engine mount makes it difficult to remove the two nuts but with patience, they can be removed. The oil pan does not use a felt gasket but silicone gasket maker. Use the black Permtex.

Anything??

The local network of wiring, sensors, controllers, chips and other various bits of silicon in the Altima is apparently vastly complicated, so I won't bore you (or me) by addressing it in detail here. However, one thing I found interesting is that the MIL shines only under two conditions:

1) If the ECM detects what Nissan considers a "serious" fault (such as a misfire), the MIL illuminates immediately and the ECM stores a trouble code.

2) If, however, the ECM senses a less serious problem, such as a vacuum leak, the MIL does not illuminate immediately. Instead, the ECM stores an identifying trouble code and waits to see if the same fault arises during the next trip cycle, which roughly corresponds to the next time you hop in the car and drive it around after turning it off. If the ECM senses the same fault, it trips the MIL light and you get to wade into the ECM or make the always-entertaining trip to your local dealer.

Your dealer uses a scan tool called a Consult to interface with the ECM directly. However, shadetree mechanics can manually pull the trouble code(s) from the ECM and, if desired, clear the code from memory, thus putting out the Check Engine Light, which incidentally shines like the fires of Hades at night against the dimmed gauge cluster.

To check the fault code yourself from the comfort of your own garage, put the ECM in "Diagnostic Test Mode II" by doing the following:

1) Sit your butt in the driver's seat.

2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)

3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds. (If you've got bad ankles, give up now and drive the car to the dealer.)

4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and hold it down for about ten seconds until the MIL light begins flashing.

5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code. Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.) The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.

The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets itself to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode. You can look up the trouble codes in the ESM/FSM; there's a bunch of them. In the ESM, refer to page EC-639. Additionally, if you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.

You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).

In my case, my trouble code was 0442 - "Evaporative System Small Leak" - discussed on page EC-973. This could indicate anything from a poorly sealed gas gap to a leak in the evaporative recovery system underneath the car. I checked everything I could and decided to clear the code, thinking that maybe a slightly loose gas cap might've been the culprit. It apparently was, as the MIL hasn't shined since.

This is exactly the kind of problem that I hate -- hate -- having dealer monkeys diagnose, as it takes hours and hours for them to dirty up the inside of my car, change all my radio presets, go through my trunk and glovebox and grease up the doorhandles and hood before they wander over and say, "Well, it's fine now." Noooo thank you.

One other interesting bit (well, I thought it was mildly entertaining at least) I ran across while poring through the OBD section was that the ECM often changes engine behavior when it senses a fault. We've all seen the posts from folks whose engines wouldn't rev past 2400 rpm, for example, and seen them report the bad news their dealers had provided: The MAF gave up the ghost.

Well, that may well be the case, but the fact that the engine wouldn't rev past 2400 rpm is not because the MAF died. It's instead because the ECM sensed a two-trip MAF failure, illuminating the MIL and storing an MAF trouble code. When this fault is detected, the ECM limits engine rpm to 2400 as a "limp home" or self-preservation tool. This is all well and good, but it doesn't necessarily mean the MAF is dead; it simply means that the ECM thinks the MAF is bad. Bringing the car home, yanking the trouble code and clearing it will restore full engine operation until the ECM senses MAF failure again twice. And as anyone who works with computers or other electronic gadges knows, the more complicated the machine the more prone it often is to freak out occasionally with neither rhyme nor reason. Clearing out the code once before taking the car to the dealer and having him take the ECM's word as God's own before presenting you with an $800 bill for a new MAF in this case may well protect your checkbook and your sanity. www.nissanforums.com

It is more reliable.

No, the ATP light comes on when the transfer case is in Neutral and the transmission is in Park. It's there to alert the driver that putting the transmission in Park will not prevent the vehicle from rolling since the axles are disconnected from the transmission's park pawl.

If the transfer case is not actually in Neutral, then it's just a sensor glitch.

This light indicates that the automatic transmission parking function is not engaged. If the transfer control lever is not secured in any drive position while the automatic transmission selector lever is in the P (Park) position, the transmission will disengage and the vehicle may move unexpectedly. Shift the transfer control lever into the 2H, 4H, or 4L position when the warning light comes on.

R-134

front 6.5inch and rear 6.5 inch

Some cars have a separate starter solenoid. If this is the case, I am willing to bet that is the issue. If not, check the wires. You have a bad connection or a fried wire.

$10.00---in habersham

Refrigerant capacity is 1.32 to 1.54 pounds

chain