Straight from the Owners Manual (see Related Questions below):

LOW TIRE WARNING - INDIRECT (IF EQUIPPED)

The low tire warning system is designed to detect a significant loss of

inflation in any one of your tires on your vehicle. The system uses the

Anti-lock brake wheel speed sensors to detect a change in wheel speed

due to tire deflation.

Resetting the indicator / warning light:

Reference the Owners Manual and / or see "Related Questions" below

BCI group 65 ( such as Motorcraft BXT - 65 - 650 - the BXT series is Fords
" top of the line " battery )
there is a rocker lock on the front bottom of the battery, loosen the long screw on the front side. this lowers the rocker lock. the battery is heavy. so be careful.
From page 254 of the 2000 Owners Manual:

Battery (standard): 3.0 engine - BXT-59 3.8 engine - BXT-65-650

Battery (optional) : 3.0 engine - BXT-65-750 3.8 engine - BXT-65-750

I always purchase the biggest, highest capacity battery that'll fit the car.

Consumer Reports continues to find the Walmart's "Everstart" brand and Autozone's Duralast as a couple of the best. High cold cranking amps (CCA), reserve and warranty.

Sears Die Hard Probably $80-100

According to the Owners Manual (page 257): "Battery (optional) BXT-65-750"

I'm recalling this is the battery group size 65, with 750 cold crank amps (CCA) rating.

My personal opinion is never skimp on the battery - get the best you can afford.

I also check Consumer Reports ratings - surprising what brands don't score well... And who does score well

Just took mine out and here is how it goes, on the front side of the battery you will notice a long thin bolt that goes down to the bottom of the battery, this holds a plastic bracket in place. this bolt can be removed with a 10 mm socket (I believe that was the size) once you have unfastened the bolt the plastic bracket will come up and out of the van with the bolt ( a little catch washer on the bottom keeps these two parts together), if the bolt and bracket do not come out freely physically bump the battery around (gently) to free the plastic bracket. it may have stuck together. after this procedure it is a standard battery removal, remove the negative car connection first then remove the positive connection. with the battery connections out of the way the battery can be lifted up and out of the van..

I assume it is the same as the 2004. You have to turn it while you are depressing it. It took two people to do mine. Once was turning while the other was pushing. Be careful not to damage the rubber boot around the caliper as well.

I am sure Ford has some fancy tool that does both at the same time but we just used a caliper depressor and adjustable pliers.

The trick is that the piston has to rotate and essentially screw itself back into the caliper.

There are two notches in the face of the piston that a 'special' tool fits into to help you rotate it while pushing in.

Late one Sunday afternoon was when I discovered this - no stores to get the 'right' tool from. I actually fabricated one out of a piece of galvanized pipe connector -and lots of grinding. Crude, but functional.

Many parts stores have a tool loaner option. You may even find this tool at affordable prices if you check around.

Yes there is a tool for retracting the rear caliper piston.

The piston actually rotates as it retracts. The tool then has 2 prongs that fit into the face of the piston so you can rotate it while pushing inwards.

FOUND A TOOL THAT WILL WORK

I was having the same problem and went to Harbour Freight and decided to buy a caliper tool not kowing how to fix the problem yet. After reading this article I realized that I was lucky enough to buy the right tool to do the job. The tool does both push and turn and by only one person! it cost me $20 and it saved me a huge headache.

You have to turn it (caliper piston) as you are depressing the piston back into the caliper. You can't just "jam" it in. I used a caliper tool (for depressing the caliper) and turned the piston with large jaw pliers. This gives both inward pressure and the turning motion. I turned it clockwise and that seemed to work. There is a special tool you can buy to turn the piston as you push it back into the body of the caliper but if you work carefully and you are VERY aware of the rubber boot (don't rip it) then pliers are ok (don't tell the Ford dealer). Cover the pliers with something so you don't scratch/ruin the piston. The front brakes are just a standard push - don't need to turn them. Why do the back brakes work this way? Has to do with the parking brake. If you look you can see that it is attached to the caliper on the rear.

The rear disc brake piston needs to turn as it is retracted / compressed into the caliper.

Go to the parts store and tell them you need the brake cylinder retraction tool. Cost about 10 bucks and works for a variety of cars/vans.

It is a square with a couple of different teeth on each face, to align with the notches in the face of the brake piston.

Should work with a 3/8 drive ratchet. Clockwise facing the cylinder to retract. Have fun!

I had the same problem, and since I couldn't find the answer here, I had to figure it out myself. Luckily, I was able to find this site again, so here's what worked for me.

Push the Setup button three times, until your driver display says something like "Press Reset for system check".

Then push Reset. The system check will start, rotating through a series of checks.

About the fifth or sixth check will be the tire pressure. It'll say something like "Hold Reset if tires are OK". While that's up, hold the Reset button. After 3 or 4 seconds, the tire warning light will click off. You need to be ready for it, because you don't get very long.

Sorry if I don't have the prompts exactly right. I remembered them the best I could, and since I held in the Reset button, I don't get the one about the tires being OK any more.

How to reset the low tire pressure warning if the vehicle does not have the "Message Center"

• turn the ignition to the ON position,
• depress and Trip/odometer button (located in the instrument cluster) until "TIRE RESET" or "CHECK TIRE AND RESET" is displayed in the odometer display window.
• Once "TIRE RESET" or "CHECK TIRE AND RESET" is displayed, press and hold the button for three seconds.

  The low tire warning indicator light will flash three times as the low tire warning system begins to initialize.

This information is detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below

As is typical of many Ford products, the gas tank is going to have to be removed to service the fuel pump. (wish they would use through-the-floor access plates more often - like the Contour... End of editorial commentary...)

Signs of a bad / failed pump:

* Car cranks - no fire

* Fuel filter is fine - check that first

* You don't hear the pump run for a few seconds when you first turn the key to the run position - put your head right by the tank to double check you do/don't hear it initialize

* Car runs like it's starving for gas - insufficient fuel pressure. Vehicle can actually run, but as soon as you push the gas pedal, it starts hesitating - bucking.

NOTE: a fuel pressure gauge comes in handy - not exactly sure of the pressure requirement on this one, but 25 lbs or more at idle, 30-40 at higher rpms is typical.

* Pumps & assembly prices range from $140-300+

I have had good experience with used pumps out of a salvage yard - a cheap way to get back on the road.

Dropping the tank is pretty straight-forward, and all the normal warnings apply:

* No SMOKING (just had to say it out loud ya know...)

* Drain as much of the fuel out as you can get - siphon hose, hand pump, etc.

* A couple pair of hands to help lower / raise the tank are best - a real bear when trying this all by yourself.

* Relive the fuel pressure before disconnecting lines - trip the fuel shutoff switch in the back corner by the tire jack, or pull the fuel pump fuse/relay - run the engine until it dies off.

* The fuel tank has a composite protective shield mounted with the support straps and retainers on the right side of the tank. Make sure the shield is correctly installed when installing the tank.

# Disconnect the negative battery cable

# Remove the fuel filler pipe

# Support the fuel tank

# Disconnect the electrical connectors and fuel line fittings

# Disconnect the retaining straps and lower the tank

# Clean the area around the pump access opening

# Turn the locking ring counterclockwise to remove

# Lift out the fuel pump

If you're replacing just the pump - follow the product instructions (IF provided) for switching the pump on the assembly.

Be careful of the float arm - don't want to be bending it - it's always falling up & down to be perfectly in your way.

To install: # Use a new gasket - grease it up a bit to help hold it in place

# Put the pump in and tighten the retaining/lock ring (60 ft lbs)

# Re-install the tank - hopefully you have that extra pair of hands to help with the balancing act

# Reconnect fill tube, wire harness, and fuel line. Some of these may easier done before lifting the tank into its final mounting position

# Time for some gas and check everything for leaks

# Start the engine and check again for leaks

Monterey 1961 Monterey 4 door sedan 22,881 $2,869 1961 Monterey 4 door hardtop 9,252 $2,941 1961 Monterey 2 door hardtop 10,942 $2,876 1961 Monterey convertible 7,053 $3,126

From mercurystuff.com