Straight from the Owners Manual (see Related Questions below):
LOW TIRE WARNING - INDIRECT (IF EQUIPPED)
The low tire warning system is designed to detect a significant loss of
inflation in any one of your tires on your vehicle. The system uses the
Anti-lock brake wheel speed sensors to detect a change in wheel speed
due to tire deflation.
Resetting the indicator / warning light:
Reference the Owners Manual and / or see "Related Questions" below
BCI group 65 ( such as Motorcraft BXT - 65 - 650 - the BXT series is Fords
" top of the line " battery )
there is a rocker lock on the front bottom of the battery, loosen the long screw on the front side. this lowers the rocker lock. the battery is heavy. so be careful.
From page 254 of the 2000 Owners Manual:
Battery (standard): 3.0 engine - BXT-59 3.8 engine - BXT-65-650
Battery (optional) : 3.0 engine - BXT-65-750 3.8 engine - BXT-65-750
I always purchase the biggest, highest capacity battery that'll fit the car.
Consumer Reports continues to find the Walmart's "Everstart" brand and Autozone's Duralast as a couple of the best. High cold cranking amps (CCA), reserve and warranty.
Sears Die Hard Probably $80-100
According to the Owners Manual (page 257): "Battery (optional) BXT-65-750"
I'm recalling this is the battery group size 65, with 750 cold crank amps (CCA) rating.
My personal opinion is never skimp on the battery - get the best you can afford.
I also check Consumer Reports ratings - surprising what brands don't score well... And who does score well
Just took mine out and here is how it goes, on the front side of the battery you will notice a long thin bolt that goes down to the bottom of the battery, this holds a plastic bracket in place. this bolt can be removed with a 10 mm socket (I believe that was the size) once you have unfastened the bolt the plastic bracket will come up and out of the van with the bolt ( a little catch washer on the bottom keeps these two parts together), if the bolt and bracket do not come out freely physically bump the battery around (gently) to free the plastic bracket. it may have stuck together. after this procedure it is a standard battery removal, remove the negative car connection first then remove the positive connection. with the battery connections out of the way the battery can be lifted up and out of the van..
I assume it is the same as the 2004. You have to turn it while you are depressing it. It took two people to do mine. Once was turning while the other was pushing. Be careful not to damage the rubber boot around the caliper as well.
I am sure Ford has some fancy tool that does both at the same time but we just used a caliper depressor and adjustable pliers.
The trick is that the piston has to rotate and essentially screw itself back into the caliper.
There are two notches in the face of the piston that a 'special' tool fits into to help you rotate it while pushing in.
Late one Sunday afternoon was when I discovered this - no stores to get the 'right' tool from. I actually fabricated one out of a piece of galvanized pipe connector -and lots of grinding. Crude, but functional.
Many parts stores have a tool loaner option. You may even find this tool at affordable prices if you check around.compress caliper pistonAssuming disc brakes, in 2004 up, the old c-clamp trick don't work any more ,the piston turns and presses at the same time, on some models, left handed. You will need a special tool.
Yes there is a tool for retracting the rear caliper piston.
The piston actually rotates as it retracts. The tool then has 2 prongs that fit into the face of the piston so you can rotate it while pushing inwards.
FOUND A TOOL THAT WILL WORK
I was having the same problem and went to Harbour Freight and decided to buy a caliper tool not kowing how to fix the problem yet. After reading this article I realized that I was lucky enough to buy the right tool to do the job. The tool does both push and turn and by only one person! it cost me $20 and it saved me a huge headache.
You have to turn it (caliper piston) as you are depressing the piston back into the caliper. You can't just "jam" it in. I used a caliper tool (for depressing the caliper) and turned the piston with large jaw pliers. This gives both inward pressure and the turning motion. I turned it clockwise and that seemed to work. There is a special tool you can buy to turn the piston as you push it back into the body of the caliper but if you work carefully and you are VERY aware of the rubber boot (don't rip it) then pliers are ok (don't tell the Ford dealer). Cover the pliers with something so you don't scratch/ruin the piston. The front brakes are just a standard push - don't need to turn them. Why do the back brakes work this way? Has to do with the parking brake. If you look you can see that it is attached to the caliper on the rear.
The rear disc brake piston needs to turn as it is retracted / compressed into the caliper.
Go to the parts store and tell them you need the brake cylinder retraction tool. Cost about 10 bucks and works for a variety of cars/vans.
It is a square with a couple of different teeth on each face, to align with the notches in the face of the brake piston.
Should work with a 3/8 drive ratchet. Clockwise facing the cylinder to retract. Have fun!
I had the same problem, and since I couldn't find the answer here, I had to figure it out myself. Luckily, I was able to find this site again, so here's what worked for me.
Push the Setup button three times, until your driver display says something like "Press Reset for system check".
Then push Reset. The system check will start, rotating through a series of checks.
About the fifth or sixth check will be the tire pressure. It'll say something like "Hold Reset if tires are OK". While that's up, hold the Reset button. After 3 or 4 seconds, the tire warning light will click off. You need to be ready for it, because you don't get very long.
Sorry if I don't have the prompts exactly right. I remembered them the best I could, and since I held in the Reset button, I don't get the one about the tires being OK any more.
How to reset the low tire pressure warning if the vehicle does not have the "Message Center"
The low tire warning indicator light will flash three times as the low tire warning system begins to initialize.
This information is detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below
If your 2004 Mazda 6 is like my 2004 Mazda 3s, the only way to retract the rear piston is to set the parking brake. Then either turn with pliers or depress with c-clamp until fully compressed. Make sure to turn the cap of reservoir off to make compressing easier. And of course, remember to tighten again after completing brake work. Disregard all of the other advice being given to turn hex screws and the such. These components don't exist on newer mazdas. Good Luck! Galdekot
Here are the stats for the 1963 Mercury Monterey courtesy of Mercurystuff.com I own a 1963 4 door sedan. 1963Weight Price Production Monterey (wb 120) Breezeway 4d sedan 3,944 2,887 18,177 Breezeway 2d sedan 3,854 2,834 4,640 Breezeway hardtop coupe 3,869 2,930 3,879 Breezeway hardtop sedan 3,959 2,995 1,692 Total Monterey 28,388
High side and low side refer to the pressure in the ac system. Ie The high side is the high pressure line and low side is the low pressure line.
That's a pretty cool operation, turn key to accessory, insert the end of a paper clip into the hole in the front of the switch , push key inward, turn key counter clock wise and pull the cylinder out, then you can remove the bezel.
It is in the Owners manual...I finally found it
It depends on the nature of the noise.
High Side Small Diameter Hose, Low Side Large Hose. The High Side Runs Hot, The Low Side Cold. Best I Can Do With Info You Provided.
As is typical of many Ford products, the gas tank is going to have to be removed to service the fuel pump. (wish they would use through-the-floor access plates more often - like the Contour... End of editorial commentary...)
Signs of a bad / failed pump:
* Car cranks - no fire
* Fuel filter is fine - check that first
* You don't hear the pump run for a few seconds when you first turn the key to the run position - put your head right by the tank to double check you do/don't hear it initialize
* Car runs like it's starving for gas - insufficient fuel pressure. Vehicle can actually run, but as soon as you push the gas pedal, it starts hesitating - bucking.
NOTE: a fuel pressure gauge comes in handy - not exactly sure of the pressure requirement on this one, but 25 lbs or more at idle, 30-40 at higher rpms is typical.
* Pumps & assembly prices range from $140-300+
I have had good experience with used pumps out of a salvage yard - a cheap way to get back on the road.
Dropping the tank is pretty straight-forward, and all the normal warnings apply:
* No SMOKING (just had to say it out loud ya know...)
* Drain as much of the fuel out as you can get - siphon hose, hand pump, etc.
* A couple pair of hands to help lower / raise the tank are best - a real bear when trying this all by yourself.
* Relive the fuel pressure before disconnecting lines - trip the fuel shutoff switch in the back corner by the tire jack, or pull the fuel pump fuse/relay - run the engine until it dies off.
* The fuel tank has a composite protective shield mounted with the support straps and retainers on the right side of the tank. Make sure the shield is correctly installed when installing the tank.
# Disconnect the negative battery cable
# Remove the fuel filler pipe
# Support the fuel tank
# Disconnect the electrical connectors and fuel line fittings
# Disconnect the retaining straps and lower the tank
# Clean the area around the pump access opening
# Turn the locking ring counterclockwise to remove
# Lift out the fuel pump
If you're replacing just the pump - follow the product instructions (IF provided) for switching the pump on the assembly.
Be careful of the float arm - don't want to be bending it - it's always falling up & down to be perfectly in your way.
To install: # Use a new gasket - grease it up a bit to help hold it in place
# Put the pump in and tighten the retaining/lock ring (60 ft lbs)
# Re-install the tank - hopefully you have that extra pair of hands to help with the balancing act
# Reconnect fill tube, wire harness, and fuel line. Some of these may easier done before lifting the tank into its final mounting position
# Time for some gas and check everything for leaks
# Start the engine and check again for leaks
Most Mercury Montereys must be drained (transmission) by removing the big inverted nut that holds the filler tube in place. This is the way mine works. I have heard that some had a drain plug, but have never seen one. I have also seen suggestions that the best way was to remove the pan, but these were only guesses in the blind because you can't remove the pan without removing the dipstick tube in any case.
PS: This all assumes that you have an automatic trans. Also, unless you or someone else has swapped engines, the 53 Merc flathead eng was 255 cu.in. The ford flatheads of that era had a 239 in. eng. so maybe you got the numbers inverted???????
PPS...I have a chilton manual for this period, that goes up to 1953, so email me if I can look up anything else for you, and I'll try to help
The ECM (Ford calls it the powertrain control module) is mounted to the firewall under the cowl panel on the passenger side.
To get to it first disconnect the battery ground cable then the plastic cowl panel must be removed along with the windshield wiper motor, the cabin air filter if equipped, and other things attached to the cowl panel. Remove the windshield wiper arms first and don't forget to disconnect the battery ground cable.
When you can see it, first loosen the bolt and remove the large electrical connector. Then remove the 2 retaining nuts and remove the PCM.
To install, reverse the removal steps. The mounting nut torque is 5 Nm and the electrical connector bolt torque is 7 Nm.
Be careful, the PCM is expensive.
mercury is located inside the ice cream zone right in front of the big zipper. It is about 100 quadtrillion light years from eath.
I finally figured this out. I had to remove the long woodgrain trim panel on the dash first. It comes straight out. I started on the left side and gently pried it out with a screwdriver.
From there I foung that the clock/vent panel has four clips on the bottom edge. You can see the lower edges once you get the trim panel off. Push these up gently and tug on the lower edge of the vent/clock panel. The panel also has hooks on the top, so you'll have to push it down a bit to get it to release from the dash. Once out, the power plug is the only thing left. The release clip is on the lower side of the plug. Push up on it and the plug will release.
There is a bulb part number on the back of the clock - F80F-13B765-AA
Ford wants about $7.50 for this micro bulb...but the closest dealer that had one was 50 miles away. After spending a couple of hours trying to find a cross reference, I stumbled across some pictures of Audi/VW instrument bulbs...same thing! The local VW dealer had them in stock, and it works fine...for $2.69!
VW/Audi bulb part number 4A0919040C
Flosser bulb 449103
OSRAM bulb 2473MFX6
You will need to gently unroll the green bulb cover and place it on the new one.
I was going to post pics, but they are too large. Send me a note if you want me to email them to you.
Joe Previous response: I have a 2004 Mercury Monterry van and this solution should apply to many other vehicles. This solution is very easy. Use these instructions at your own risk. Please click on the hyperlink below in the "related articles" section below for an illustrated walk-thru. Note: It is only four pages but it is almost 7 megabytes. Minimal tools needed. Total time is about 20 minutes. (Including cleanup) As of October 2008, this bulb was $14.00 USD at the local Mercury dealership. Remove the nut and then pry along the edges with a flat screw driver. Start from the front and go towards the back. You may want pry on the left and right side slowly as you go towards the back. Look at the picture to see all of the clips. Disconnect the power cable to the clock. Use the flat blade screwdriver to release it before pulling it out. The white plastic cover simply pulls off incase you want to take it off. Use a socket to remove the bulb. (You could do this with your hands if you have small and strong fingers.) Tip: Put a small piece of masking tape inside the socket and it will provide just enough friction to keep the new bulb in the socket without falling out while you are trying to install it.
The high side is the rich class of people with nice jobs. The low side were the poor and lower class jobs.
lol you really probably can't. You probably have to live close I think its in california, and its just a matter of chance
Monterey 1961 Monterey 4 door sedan 22,881 $2,869 1961 Monterey 4 door hardtop 9,252 $2,941 1961 Monterey 2 door hardtop 10,942 $2,876 1961 Monterey convertible 7,053 $3,126
it is under the van about mid way on drivers side
Turn the piston clockwise and it scews itself in...
For the best, most comprehensive and illustrated information about Freestar spare tires is in the Owners Manual,under the topic "Roadside Emergencies" (2007 page #240).
The short story is to find a plastic cover in the carpeting at the back right corner of the "way back". Lift the cover to access a nut which happens to be the same size as a lugnut.
Using the van's lugnut wrench, turn the nut counter-clockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground.
There's also a warning note about van's with the low tire pressure sensor system - won't work with the temporary spare on the van.
Refer to not only the Owners Manual, but also the "Related Questions" below relating to the Windstar spare tires. Lots of good tips and hints that apply to the Freestar/Monterey vans.
On the Freestar/Monterey, there is a inertia fuel cutoff/reset switch in the rear cargo area of the vehicle, located in the jack storage compartment (It may be covered with a thin sheet of sound insulation). With the vehicle off, and key removed, using a small screwdriver carefully unplug the grey harness at the base of the switch. Next, attempt to start the vehicle, and if it starts, let it run until the engine quits.
Your fuel pressure is now relieved, and the fuel remaining in any lines will not be pressurized, however be prepared for residual fuel and possible spills.
Once your work has been completed, simply re-attach the wiring harness to the inertia switch, and the pump should prime on the next start. If not, depress the red button on top of the inertia fuel cutoff switch to re-enable.
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