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check out www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces ) click on Owner Guides The owners manual ( includes fuse box diagram ) can be viewed on-line

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Remove the interior panel for the appropriate side (not all the way, but enough to see the nuts holding it in). There are 2,3, maybe 4 nuts holding it in. Remove them and pull gently on the light from the outside. If it doesn't come out, common sense says there is one or more nuts on there still. Once out, remove the lights by twisting 90 degrees and pulling back. Be sure to take note of which one came out of where. Repeat in reverse order to reassemble!

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Not always in the same place apparantly, here are some suggestions Trunkits usaully on a sticker in the trunk Glove boxOn a 1992 Sable it's on a small white sticker on the left side on the opened glove compartment

On year 2000 up mercury sables the keypad on the driver's door unlocks the driver door, passenger doors then the trunk. To locate the factory keypad code in 2000 up mercury sables it is located on the side of the fuse box by the driver's side foot pedals. My sticker was pasted almost on the back side of the fuse box, I had to unscrew my box from the floor to read the code. All in all, just get ready to get upside down and intimate with your driver's side floor.

Not all Merc's have this sticker. My 2002 does not have the sticker on the fuse box. If you call up the dealer with your VIN number, they should be able to get you the number. It helps if it the dealer that you bought it from. My dealer looked it up for me.

Here's the deal. The label is on the GEM module which is bolted behind the fuse box. Get on the floor with a flashlight and a mirror. There is a label on the GEM module which is at the edge of one of the corners. It will have the 5 digit number on it. You can also pull the fuse box and look at the number that way. It's not difficult to do. Disconnect the battery first.

Here's a couple more places to look on the Gen2 series (1992-1995), on one of the "owner care" cards in the manual folder (if it's still there), on a small, white decal on the underside of the trunk lid or mounting brackets, and a decal stuck to the inertia switch (behind the carpeting, driver's side in the trunk)

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I'm not sure,but I'd like to know too. VaVaVoom! Her name is Jill Wagner. from Punk'd Jill Wagner

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I believe it is at the top rear of the engine (between engine and firewall, just left of center (passenger side). You have to remove (2) bolts (bolted in from the back, toward the front of the vehicle), next, remove the EGR tube nut that goes to the bottom of the valve. Typically, the valve does not go bad. You can test the EGR valve by removing the vacuum connector from the top of the valve, and add vacuum to the top of the valve. If the valve works, the engine will shudder when vacuum is applied. Typically EGR problems on these are caused by the DPFE senser that is located next (toward driver's side)to the EGR valve. It also bolts in from the back with two small bolts, and has (2) vacuum hoses connected to the bottm of the switch.

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Fuse # 17 is a 25 amp fuse for the cigarette lighter in a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer

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bearning on front breaks burn out

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The EGR on the 97 merc is on the back left side on the intake near the firewall. I have had sucess with cleaning out the throttle body and pathway to the erg for clearing the MIL or check engine light for odb codes related to excessive and inexcessive flow rates in the egr. Open the hood and locate the air box for the air filter. Connected to this is a large semi flex tube with a clamp at each end. One at the air box and one at the throttle body. Just remove the clamps and push open the butterfly valve and spray out the insides with carb cleaner. Note, if you have low miles, under 100k, I would not recommend this, because they seal them with a coating and you may cause further problems. However, if you are like me you will have over 100k. I have 127k on mine. Don't start the vehicle right after this. Spray it out several times and and let if dry out. You can prop a screwdriver in the spring just to the right of the TB valve. It is tight to try to remove the egr in your driveway. One of the two screws is ok to remove and the other is very difficult with standard tools. If you wish to see what the egr looks like check out autozone or parts America web sites and search for egr and I know at least one of them has a picture of one.

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It is in the air cleaner housing

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Clean the inside of the throtle body where the butterfly is. Also clean the idle speed control which is on the side of the throtle body. Good luck. 11/11/04 - just happened to me. My mechanic is going to; 1) replace EGR valve He also found a leak (with a special leak detecting gadget) at the intake manifold, so that gasket is being replaced. Check your pcv valve, this on thing can cause a lot of troubleshooting. Only 3-5 dollars to buy.

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I've had the opportunity to do this self-repair job. It ain't too fun. It will take you all day for 4 wheels if you have AWD and if it's all wheel drive, you have to buy the entire hub assembly because the wheel bearings are sealed and not replaceable. It's about a three hour job for each front wheel and an hour or so on the back for the average do it yourself-er like me. I take breaks but an obsessive-compulsive can probably do all wheels in four hours if you already have the parts. You can get everything you need Autozone. The front assemblies are the most expensive at about $170 each. The dealer will charge you $350 each for the fronts and that doesn't include installation.

Step by step:

Remove the tire

Remove the entire brake caliper and use string/wire to hang it out of the way. DO NOT LET THE BRAKE HOSE SUSPEND THE CALIPER! DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG FROM THE BRAKE HOSE! Use something to hold it out of the way other than the brake hose.

Remove the large locking nut on the center of the hub. Do not re-use it. Get a new one for reassembly. That sucker is on there big-time tight so you will need an impact wrench. You will not be able to remove it unless you have a 6 foot cheater bar or an impact wrench and I've never seen a 6 foot cheater bar. If you don't have an impact wrench you will not succeed at this project. Go to Lowe's and pick up an electric one for 40 bucks. They're awesome for removing lawnmower blades too! Do this before you take things apart so you can drive your car. :)

After removing the hub lock nut, remove 3 bolts behind the hub assembly that hold the assembly to the strut.

Remove the wiring for the antilock. It runs up the wheel well and into the engine compartment.

After everything is unbolted/unwired, remove the hub assembly by pulling it. You may need a may need a rubber hammer or some leverage to get it to move. Be careful not to damage the splines on the spindle once the hub is removed.

Do everthing in reverse to put it back on.

Get a Chilton's repair guide to help. They've got good pictures of the parts. You can get these at Autozone as well. Autozone is nationwide so I'm sure there's one near you somewhere. If not, any other parts store should have the same stuff. You must ensure you torque the bolts to the correct lbs and a repair guide will give you these numbers for your year model.

Once you're done, have a beer and remember, you have another front wheel to go and two on the back. The back is easier. :)

I Have removed many axle nuts and it can be done with a breaker bar. Mine is about 2 feet long and has a 1/2 inch drive. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH TO INSTALL ANY FASTENERS. FIND THE TORQUE SPECS AND USE THE PROPER TOOL (TORQUE WRENCH) AND SETTING!

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Take out the fuse.

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If you have a 5R55W 5 speed automatic, there is no dipstick. It is a "sealed" transmission and shouldn't leak...unless you have a leaking diaphram, in which case you would blow smoke out your tail pipe, bla bla bla. Ford says you should take it in...or look in your owners manual. You should have a 5R55E though and that would most likely be toward the back just to the right or left of the engine.

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It has a built in timer. You can adjust how long they stay on with the sliding lever located on the rear view mirror.

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There are dozens of things that turn the light on. Take it to auto zone and have the codes read free.

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Take it to autozone they will do a free diagnostic test and tell you what is wrong with it....

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1-4-2-5-3-6

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Trouble code P0741 means:Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck on

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On one of the valve covers. I found mine on the back of the intake manifold withe a t going to the front and back of the engine.

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The plastic covers usually snap onto the outer edge of the speaker. Using a small pry bar or a screwdriver around the edge should pop it off.

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The iat sensor is the front sensor on the intake manifold it has a gray 2 wire plug that is the 4.0 lt the 2.5 the sensor is the back sensor on the manifold.

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Being a typical Ford product, you should get at least 100,000 miles out of this vehicle before you start having to replace parts, or do anything other than routine maintenance.

Ford, checy, or dodge. Alll newer vehicles run a long time without problems. If you do your 100000 mile tune up, you should havwe any troubles with it, that is if it is treated well and maintance is well taken care of. 175,000 will be when i would start thinking about its end.

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