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Your fuel filter may be clogged and need to be replaced. You may also have a weak fuel pump or trash in the tank. The strainer on the fuel pump in the tank may be clogged( build up over years of use).That may be why it cranks fine the next day , the trash has settled back down to the bottom of the tank. I would like to add to this answer. My Trooper is a 1999 and was having a similar problem. It was like chasing a ghost. It would start cold every time but after it warmed up, I would have to press the accelerator to get it to start. The reason, I finally discovered, was because the fuel pressure regulator was bad. What I did was to run the car until it was warm then shut it off. Then go to the fuel pressure regulator and remove the vacuum line and check to see if there was fuel present in the line. If there is, the regulator is bad. In essence, what this does is to bleed fuel back into the combustion chamber after you shut off the engine therefore overloading it with fuel the next time that you start it. That's why you would have to pump the gas to clear it out when starting it warm. That fuel dissipates over time which is why its fine in the morning. GOOD LUCK.

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Why would a well cough and sputter every 6 minutes but always have a lot of water available?

my dad was a well driller, and that sounds to me like air in the pipes, I can remember him going to the well house and on the pump there should be a valve that will let you drain it of the air before it gets to the pipes, hope this will help you.


What causes the hot and cold taps upstairs to have no water pressure and all toilets gurgle and sputter and the pressure is slow?

This issue could be caused by a blockage in the water supply line, a malfunctioning pressure reducing valve, air trapped in the pipes, or a problem with the water heater. It is recommended to contact a plumber to diagnose and fix the problem.


Why does a car slow down sputter then backfire on acceleration?

This is a very broad question, but I will say this it is more than likely bad fire (spark) or bad fuel (not enough, too much, poor quality). Spark could be any thing from sparkplug all the way back up to the distributor or timing. Fuel could be water or rust in the fuel, clogged injector/injector's. probably NOT fuel pump or filter.


How far does lava go when it erupts?

it depends. for example, mount Vesuvius erupted, and threw out enough ash to turn day into night for a week! with Kilauea, it does not throw out ash, and does not explode. go to Wikipedia and check out "Volcanic Ash". thank you for asking!


Does warm or cool air defrost car windows faster and why?

If the window has FROST on it you will need warm air to melt the ice. If the inside of the window has vapor on it you need DRY air. When you turn the defroster on (in most vehicles) the air conditioning compressor starts to run as well, drying out the air. The temperature should also be as warm as is comfortable for the driver. When the dried air is blown across the window, the water vapor evaporates and you can see again. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CORRECTION: So in reality, the "pump" or compressor has no actual drying affect on the air, the compressor itself is a closed system pump, that forces gas into a compressed tube, and then upon release of the gas the tubing freezes. The a/c fan then blows outside air over the frozen tubing, which looks like a tiny little radiator, thus cooling the outside air. During the winter, people typically do no use their a/c system (unless they live in the southwest US or someplace HOT), which basically would mean that for many months the A/C pump, tubing, condenser and other components would suffer from what's basically called "Lot Rot". Rust would build up from trapped moisture, the lubrication that keeps the pump nice and smooth would pool up and dry off the moving parts. And when the summer time hit and someone turned their A/C on it would sputter and spit and probably seize the pump. Therefore, an ingenious engineer figured out to wire the A/C system to the Defrost button, since they use very different air intakes. So you can send warm mixed air to the defrost vent, and at the same time keep the A/C system running and lubricated through the long winter months. So your A/C runs when you push defrost not to dehumidify your air, but to keep you A/C system from taking a crap in the winter. The reason you would see an affect on fogged windows from using the A/C switch, is because it's bringing in outside cooler air, which is probably far less humid than the air you've been breathing that fogged up the window in the first place. Dry external air, whisks away the water vapor on the windows. The cooler air also has an impact on the air that was fogging the window, in that it cools the air bringing it farther away from it's condensation point and causing it to reabsorb the moisture it shed on the glass. The defrost system, is of course by name designed to get rid of "frost", but it also uses outside air mixed with heated air to give you the same affect of removing fog. However, not only does it bring in external dry air, it also brings the temperature of the glass up, which changes the condensation capability of the air on the glass. Take your mind back to last summer, when you had a nice cold beer on a hot day, the can sweats, water drips off the cold can because of condensation of moisture in the air on the cool can surface. Think of your cold windshield, it's probably just as cold as that beer, and the air you are exhaling and sitting in is warm and juicy, so the glass fogs up. You can either heat the glass, cool the air in the car, introduce dry air to the car, or pull over and get a beer. Basically, I would suggest that the defrost feature offers two of the 3 viable options, it heats the glass, and it brings in external warmed dry air directly onto the glass to whisk the moisture up and prevent further condensation. The A/C option only brings in cooled dry air. Which works faster? maybe A/C does or maybe not, I think it depends on how warm your engine is, since A/C can be cold in seconds, but heat takes many minutes to manifest. I think the better question is which works longer and is more comfortable, I think that's definitely the defrost. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ADDITION to CORRECTION: The above "Correction" piece is by far the best answer I've seen on the web that bests answers the question: how to defrost/defog your car window. For what it's worth, the Correction piece is spot on about the A/C being used in the winter months as a maintenance issue. However, there is a correction (or at least some additional piece of information) to make the above answer a bit more precise. -- A/C operation: The A/C operation described above is a bit unclear. Refrigerant is compressed to around 100psi as a gas (today its r-134a) by the compressor. Then, this gas is sent to the condenser which cools the high pressure, high temperature gas into a lower temperature gas. This gas turns into a liquid by the time it leaves the condenser. This liquid (highly pressurized) is sent through tubing until just before the evaporator it is sent through a fixed orifice that quickly depressurizes the liquid and quickly turns back into a gas. That is, it evaporates. When this refrigerant evaporates, it absorbs heat; thus, we get a cold sensation. Since the boiling point of r-134a is around 35 deg f, the air around the evaporator will be about 35 deg f. As the gas evaporates in the evaporator, a blower motor blows air across the evaporator and sends this cold air (about 35 deg f) into the passenger compartment. Thus, cold air. -- A/C as a dehumidifier: The A/C does dry the air, but only in warm temperatures (i.e. you will see the moisture dripping from underneath your car). This moisture comes from the evaporator drain (which is inside the passenger compartment). So inside air is actually being 'dried' in the warmer months. So, the above statement about the A/C not drying the air , however, is true only if it is cold out. -- A/C bringing in outside air: The A/C system doesn't necessarily introduce outside air. The blower motor is inside the vehicle and blows inside air or outside air (depending on the recirculation door position) across the evaporator, then the heater core. Thus, if the A/C is on and the recirculation door is closed (closing off outside air) then no external air is introduced, and defogging doesn't occur. BUT, if your car lets you turn on defrost (which always brings in outside air) and ac, then of course, external air is introduced. So, although technical points, I add these facts. Thanks to whoever posted the above "Correction" piece as I learned a lot from it. Thanks, and I hope my little piece shed some light.

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