how do I reset the vsr light on my toyata?
the easiest way to change the timing belt is to remove the grill, center section of the radiator support, and the radiator and fans. Leave the airconditioner condesor there, it would be more difficult to remove. Once all that has been removed you then have to remove the blelts, the tensioner (completely) and the crack pully. then you have access to the timing chain cover, which you then remove and there it is. A tip when replacing the belt is to also replace the water pump since you already went through the trouble. I just did all this yesterday and the water pump cost 39.99 and belt was 35.00.Answer1. slow percausion 2. use a menual step by step 3.starting with cam pully 4.work your way in and out 5. ) AnswerNot to be rude, but if you have to ask, you need take it in.
A TB is a project for someone with a good mechanical aptitude (and most likely, a shop manual), it is not just a simple fix, like a bulb or radio, etc. If you do it wrong, you'll likely leak coolant, or worse, total the engine.
Most newer engines are 'interference engines' meaning a timing belt that breaks, slips or has some other sort of misalignment causes physical (costly) damage to the engine's internals.
Usually, it is the valves that get bent, which entails about a $750 repair (in addition to the cost of the belt repair). Worse, a piston or cylinder wall gets cracked, which usually means a new engine, that can become a $2000 expense real quick.
Dealers are expensive, usually 30% more than independent shops on a timing belt.
Find a good local independent shop and consult with them, you will likely spend about $150-$200 in parts, and another $300-$400 in labor. Not cheap, but a lot better then the alternative.
Not to be a prick.. but the dude (Mark) that answered above me most likely works for a mechanic shop. I have rebuilt 4 engines and have done it all by trial and error. Ask questions and/or grab a Chilton manual. The best way to save money is to do it yourself. Just keep an eye on what you are doing and be sure to mark what you disconnect so you don't forget where anything goes. EASY AS PIE!!
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I was totally puzzled by the same problem - - followed the Owner's Manual instructions explicitly to no avail. Problem is - - there are two (2!) DISP buttons - - a prominent one on the dashboard - - a less prominent one on the steering wheel. It's the steering wheel one that you want to press and hold to access the clock reset functions. (Then make a note in your Owner's Manual that it's the DISP button on the steering wheel.)
Do not attempt to remove the housing. Attack from the underside.
Turn the wheel so that it points out. Pull back the thin black covering in the wheelwell part way. This is done by starting at the front of the car and part way up the wheelwell. You will need to remove two screws and one black snap button. (If the button breaks, you can get them at the dealership for pennies.) You should now have access to the bulb socket.
Entire process should take approximately 10 minutes.
the filter is easy to change. it should be in one or two places, the return grill which will be in a hallway near the thermostat. this is the most common location if your furnace is located someplace not easily gotten to. the return grill should have a small latch(es) or screws/nuts keeping it closed, the grill is hinged to allow it to swing open for easy filter changes. simply remove old filter check the size that's written on it and replace with same size assuming it fit right. lil trick if it's high up turn on the fan this will hold the filter when you have your hands full balancing on a ladder/chair. replace it every 2 to 3 months depending how it looks. If your furnace is in the garage or a closet and you only have a flat return grill the filter will be in the bottom of the furnace, just open the bottom door and you will see it, pull it out and replace. the filter needs to have some kind of support in it, checkerboarded thread at least to keep it from being sucked into the blower motor when it starts collecting dust. they only cost a couple of bucks at walmart or a do it yourself store. pleated ones have more surface area and work great. hope i helped. viking40
yes, but hte weight rating is very low. approx 1000 lbs total
Here's a web page that shows how to do it on a Mazda Miata, which is bound to be somewhat similar and somewhat different, but it should show you what you're in for if you attempt it:
I just did my first timing belt change...my advice do a i did and replace the idler, tensioner, and tensioner spring while you're at it. First, remove batter power. Second remoce the plug wires. Remove the power steering pump, with the hoses still atached. Next make sure the engine is supported and remove he motor mount. emove the head and gasket. Neext the right wheel and splash guard. Remove the tension via the teniosner with a Allen wrench. put on the ne belt and reassemble.
2000 lbs gross trailer weight W/ 200 lbs tongue load weight. The towing capacity will be listed in the owners manual and is sometimes listed on the drivers door jam. *** I would never tow more than a loaded Jet Ski / Sea Doo trailer with a short wheel base Jeep CJ or Wrangler. It's just not safe. But if you're going to tow a small car on the back streets, going very slowly for only a couple miles - no problem.
I'm not sure if this is going to help, but the last time I took our Sienna into get its oil changed, the mechanic lifted the hood and yelled out "top-loader" and then ran for cover. A couple of minutes later their double-jointed mechanic came out. I asked him what the deal was.
"Basically the oil filter can only be reached from above and in order to do this the engine has to be either cold or cooled down with water." He said "I always get the top loaders".
I guess its the harsh price to pay for being double-jointed ;-)
Its in a very convienient place. As far as I can tell you have to get to it from the top. You reach under the front exhaust manifold. So better let it cool down first.
actually, its easiest from the bottom.... it is on the front of the engine pointing at the radiator. if you lift the front of the van and look up just past the splash shield you can see it and access it easily with a standard strap type filter wrench.
ANSWER: Oil Filter can be accessed from either top ot bottom ( best from the bottom) it is located approx. center of engine on front side of engine. It's always a good ideal to let engine cool before attempting of remove old filter to avoid get burned. GOOD LUCK!
There's an aluminum cover over the manifold and underneath it on the front and backside of the injectors are three square caps that appear to have some circuitry on top. You'll want to turn slightly back and forth and pull up on these as they are the Spark Plug caps. Be aware of the light gage wires coming out of the cap. Once out, you've exposed the tubes where the spark plugs reside. Get the appropriate socket wrench & extension and go to it. The front set is relatively painless but the back set is in a tight space.EasierA few details which might make your life easier (i just finished changing the spark plugs a few minutes ago on my 1995 Avalon):
1. You will need an Allen wrench to remove the plastic cover which says "3000 four cam". Once you remove the two Allen bolts and you've removed the cover, you'll see the three square spark plug boots which are attached to the engine body with 10mm bolts.
2. Make sure you have a 6 inch extension before you start. Once the spark plugs boots are pulled out, you'll notice that the spark plugs are in a well that's about 3.5 inches deep; so you won't be able to reach them without a socket extention.
3. The back plugs are in a very tight spot (you'll see the square spark plug boots just underneath the intake manifold, nearest to the passenger compartment). Buy a universal swivel joint for your ratchet AND another 6 inch extension. The space is so tight that i can't imagine anyone being able to get in. You'll need one extension on the end of the spark plug socket, you'll need the universal swivel joint attached to that extension, and then another extension attached to the universal swivel joint so that you can attach your ratchet at a point where you'll have enough space to move it.
Excluding the trips to the hardware store for the extensions and universal swivel joint for my ratchet, it took me about an hour and a half. Good luck to all those diyers who dare.Extended versionI changed the spark plugs on my 1996 Avalon XLS using a standard 3/8" Socket Set Drive which I connected to a Great Neck Flexible Spark Plug Socket & Extension which has a 5/8" socket.
Great Neck # 28004
Its SKU = 76812 28004
The tool is 13 inches long (the extension is 11 of the 13inches)
It has a scored area on the extension making it easier to hand-start the plugs in their threads.
It has a swiveling socket with a rubber sleeve/grip to pull the unscrewed plugs out of the deep tubes.
This was the perfect tool to do this tight-spaces job for me in an hour or so.
I bought the tool at my local Autozone for about $10
Good Luck DIY'ers
1500 lbs for all models
Turn signal flasher opening and closing circuit
To re-set Toyota Highlander 'maintenance required' dashboard warning light: Turn on the ignition and observe the odometer window. Ensure that it is set on the totalaccumulated mileage of the vehicle (NOT the trip meter). Turn off ignition. With the ignition off - depress the little plastic switch that changes the odometer to the trip meter and then while holding the switch in the depressed position, turn on ignition (it is not necessarry to start the car). Continue holding the switch down for 5-10 seconds and you will see the odometer window flash back to zero. Release the switch and turn the ignition off, and it will be re-set for another 7,500 miles.
The Brand New 2011 Toyota Highlander starts at $28,090 for the standard model. the four other models of the Highlander include the SE at $32, 695, the Limited at $35,595, the Hybrid at $38,140, and the Hybrid Limited at $43,795.
Take it to a garage as there is check out charts that the mechanics follow.
There is a recall on the circuit board on the fron of the motor, you can take it to the dealer if this recall has not been done yet OR All you have to do is take out three torx screws pull the board off and replace it, when you buy one new, they usually come with the screws... This is Most Likely the problem taht you have.
More than likely it needs a new pulse module control board for the wipers.... get it at an autoparts store for around 35-45 or have them charge you 130 just for the part....
take it to the Chevy dealer, i believe it is a recall item. i had that happen to me twice and i read somewhere that Chevy was replacing it even tho i bought my replacement part
I had the same problem on my 96 Tahoe and had to have the wiper motor replaced. it seem thet where the connector clips into the motor, the cnnection on the motor side goes bad. It cost me about $175.00 to have the dealer fix it. about 3 months later g.m. issued a recall notice on that very problem so you might want to check that.
this happened on my 97 s 10 and it was nothing more than the relay switch sticking. it is on the the firewall at the top just try tapping on a couple of em to see if that fixes the problem. then you will know which one to fix. by the way this started happening over 50 thousand miles ago and i still havent had to replace it. just have to tap it every once in awhile or run over a speed bump.I think there is a recall on this. On the wiper control board under the hood next to the wiper motor the ground pin comes unsoldered. It is intermittent. I had the same problem, but being handy with soldering and good mechanic i fix it myself.
it is located on the underside of the oil pan. there is a circle with a large bolt in it.There is the the filter.Clean the area around this cicle and it should have engraved writing indicating the filter is inside the oil pan.
If you are speaking of the low level brake lights - open the hatch which will expose the screws holding the taillight housing in place. Remove the screws and carefully remove the entire housing exposing the wires and socket on the backside. Carefully un-twist the socket and carefully remove the bulb and replace in reverse order.
Wouldn't worry about spare sensor works on temp doesn't actually connect to any tire. With car off turn key to on position wait a few seconds then depress tire reset button on dash left side near steering column hold until tire light flashes three times
Take out the fuse.
Turn ignition off.
Hold in the same button you used in step 1.
While holding the button in, turn ignition to 'ON'.
The 'Maint Reqd' light should blink and go out.
If you wish to confirm, this info should be in your owner's manual.
-- for the 2004 Highlander
Same as above except turning to ON did not work for me but turning to ACC did.
For me..... and I have a 2005 Highlander, I had to hold the odometer button down for several seconds, In my case I had to hold it down for 6 seconds.
For my 2007 Highlander you turn the ignition to ACC press the odometer button, turn it to off, then turn it back to ACC (not "ON") while still keeping the button depressed. The dealership had it wrong, as well.
Just had mine done at a shop at around 75,000 miles and the old belt look fine it could have ran another 50,000 miles. It's a hard job very tight space to work in. Have a good shop do it and change the water pump because it has to be removed when changing the belt. Tensioner should be replaced also.
I just checked the lever on mine that switches from fresh air to recirculated , this morning :) The procedure is the same.
You need to get behind the controls to view the connections at the back.
Below the dash on each side of the steering wheel are two rectangular removable bits. On the right hand side, it is the part that houses the 'boot release' button. On the left it is the same shape but without the button. Unscrew these. Look up into the gap left and you will see another screw for each side. Unscrew these too.
You will be removing the black 'lining' that goes around whole dash above the steering wheel. It goes around the airvent control switches as well as the speedometer etc.
You will see all the screws holding those air controls into place. Remove them and slide the compartment out. You can then check if any of the wiring or other bits and pieces have come loose behind your temperature control lever.
It isn't hard but will save some $$$ if you do it instead of the mechanic.CHeers,JO
it could be either a broken wire of just the bulb.
I had this problem. From what I can tell, the problem stems from two problems. One is moisture gets into the alternator and fries the core, and the other is actually with the spark plugs. If you are not running the engine long enough for it to get really hot, the fuel leaves deposits on the plug tips. Try cleaning the spark plugs and retry to start the car if it doesn't work still it is the Alternator. Also if you let it sit over a month, you might want to verify your liquid seals and fluid levels are still good. Okay, if it has sat for a month without any charge going to the battery, it is most likely the battery. Over time, batteries can lose their charge if not in use. Just get a jumpstart from a friendly neighbor or a buddy. I work in an auto parts store, so i tell people the better way to jumpstart their battery all the time, so it will survive for the next time you need to start it. whether it be jumper cables or a small jumper pack, allow the juice to flow into the dead car for about 2-5 minutes. then you can attempt to start it. if it wont start quite yet, let it go some more. when it starts, disconnect the donating juice and allow the vehicle to run at least a good 15 minutes to let the battery get some decent charge from the alternator. if you dont let it run before immediately driving somewhere, it may not get the proper charge it needs to be able to start it again. just a little car battery FYI: 1. A true dead battery wont hold a charge past an hour. 2. Keeping your terminals and posts clean from corrosion can help your battery last another year or two. 3. A simple multi-meter can tell you if your alternator is doing its job. 13-14Volts and up means it is ok, any lower and it needs to be replaced. just set your tester to DC 12 voltage. 4. If your battery appears to have bulging sides, it could mean it is being overcharged by the alternator. have the alternator an/or voltage regulator checked
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