The check engine light (CEL for short) is triggered when one or more of the many sensors on the vehicle detects a not-normalreading,
There are 2 basic steps to determining the cause of the CEL coming on:
There are countless sources of information on engine DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) on the internet - including WikiAnswers!
Pay attention to those check engine lights - they're there for a reason. And with the internet today, you can readily find the information to keep your car healthy, and even save some $$ in the process.
(end of editorial rant,... and no more acronyms!)NOTE:This light has 2 other names it is referred to:
You need to have it scanned,most of smaller repair shops will do it a reasonable price,and give you the trouble code.Check engine light staying onYou need to go to a reputable shop and have them test the vehicle. They will use a scan tool to check for codes, then they will have an idea what system is causing the light to come on.
Just finding out the code doesn't tell what's wrong, so it may not be worth trying to buy a cheap "code reader". Find a shop you trust and take the vehicle to a professional.AnswerThe scanner / code readers are very inexpensive now - I've seen them as low as $30. Autozone & Harbor Freight are just 2 places to look.
BEWARE - the parts stores are very happy to tell you the DTC code (Diagnostic trouble code), and then encourage you to buy the cited part.
For example, a P0171 or P0174 indicate an oxygen sensor issue - will buying and replacing the O2 sensor FIX the problem? NOT AT ALL LIKELY. Don't just blindly buy the part - been there, done that.
Get the codes read - then research them on the net or talk to a reliable mechanic.
Its the emissions light. On my mercury sable when I get bad gasoline the light tends to go on. Usually if I run the car almost empty and then fill up again it goes out. If not try disconecting the battery.
It could be one, more, or MANY things. That's why it is suggested that you take it to your dealer if it is still under warranty. You can take it to AutoZone and have your "Codes" (what causes the Check Engine Light or "SES" Service engine soon light) read.
It will usually tell you what caused the SES and it should be fairly simple to fix, such as a malfunctioning O2 Sensor.
Some things however can be very complex and it is recommended an AST Certified Mechanic takes a look at the vehicle.
most likely a severe engine misfire. you need to have it checked for codesAnswerIt simply means that the engines computer is picking up a a problem from one of the sensors on the vehicles All of the sensors work together and feed their information to the Engines Computer (or ECU). The main reason for all of these sensors is to accomplish maximun fuel economy while buring as clean as possible thus keeping pollution and emissions to a minimal. AnswerThe light is on because the computer has detected a problem with the emissions system. This may be nothing more than a loose gas cap, or as serious as a bad catalytic converter. Have the computer scanned for fault codes. This will help to find the problem. After the problem is corrected the light can be reset with an OBD2 scan tool. AnswerPull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self test the computer runs the car through, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. See "Related Questions" below for moreAnswer
Open and read your owner's manual. There you will find the answer to your question. But I will tell you. The computer has detected a fault with the emissions system.Answer
Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.
The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. I am sure I will revise this as time goes on, as it is an in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.AnswerIt will be impossible to give you any better than a broad answer here, because there are literally hundreds of possibilities as to why a check engine light(CEL) comes on. The system would have to be scanned to retrieve whatever fail codes there are. Then we would use a manual (that is literally 3 inches thick)that contains flow charts with pinpoint tests, using a voltmeter, to hand diagnose, and find out what is wrong. This process can take a few minutes, it may take a couple of hours, depending on what is actually wrong.
Now here is the "why" of a CEL: What is actually turning on the CEL is the Powertrain Control Module(PCM), commonly known as the engine control computer. Inside of a PCM there are actually two separate systems. One is control, the other system is diagnostics. PCM diagnostics acts as "big brother," constantly looking over the shoulder of the control side of the PCM. Diagnostics is constantly monitering systems to see if the expected voltages and values are present. For example: If the PCM diagnostics knows that it has been so many minutes since the engine was first started, then the engine temperature should be around 195 degrees. In our senerio, if the engine is still 160 degrees, it sees a problem, and sets the CEL. The technician has to use pinpoint diagnostics to see if we have a stuck thermostat, if the Engine Coolant Temp(ECT) sensor if sending a false signal, if the wiring between the ECT and the PCM is bad, or if the PCM is faulty and interpreting the signal received from the ECT incorrectly. But the PCM is not capable of monitering everything all at once, so it basically goes down a checklist, over and over again, as you are driving down the road. Sometimes a problem can come and go intermittantly, at the right times so as to avoid detection by the PCM. That is why sometimes a CEL doesn't always come on everytime there is a problem. Sometimes you can unplug a sensor even while the car is running, and it takes a while for the CEL to come on, just because the PCM diagnostics hasen't gotten back around to looking at that area yet.
Our senerio only talked about one area that a PCM moniters. There are dozens of sub-systems that the PCM looks at, and dozens of possible failures within each of those sub-systems, that could cause a CEL.
Most often the cause of this light staying on is a bad EGR valve or a bad O2 sensor.
Y-THINK-YAnsweryou might want to check your gas cap if it is loose it can trigger your check engine light
Some do not have a filter. check with transmission shop they should be able to tell you
For 1981 - 1982 model (may work on newer models) proceed as follows:
First undo the two screws in the indicator/parking light lens and remove the lens and the body of the indicator/parking light which has the two bulbs in it.
Then you will see two square plastic blocks where the screws screw into. On the backs of these block are two legs. Squeeze the legs together and push the blocks forwards to remove them.
Then the headlight/parking light/indicator surround will be loose. Tilt the outside edge of the surround forwards and then pull it to the outside of the vehicle. It will then be removed.
The headlight is held in with three screws with springs behind the headlight assembly. You will notice that there is a hole with a slot next to/under the screw head. Do not turn these screws with a screwdriver, as they adjust the headlight aim.
Push on the headlight and rotate it until the screw heads drop through the hole. Disconnect the wires to the headlight. by removing the plug. Remove the sealed beam from the assembly by undoing the 3 or 4 screws on the outside of the ring.
Reassembly is reverse of above. (Don't forget to connect the plug!)
What ever the thermostat is set for, probably 195 degrees.
for motorway driving
Hey buddy I found this link, I have a 1993 4X4 Triton V6 and was asking the same question......I bought a haynes manual and found it ok, but the wiring diagrams were worthless....try this link here appears to better quality than a haynes.......http://www.vehiclemanuals.com.au/p8-mit-Triton.htm
If you have manual most likely you will have to fix the clutch. In case of automatic transmission start from checking the condition of the fluid (smell, viscosity, color). If it has to be replaced do so.
You might need just add fluid, thus second step is to check the level.
Mit (mittens) - soo (soon) - bi (big) - she
Replacing the fuel filter may fix the problem. Also check the air filter and replace if necessary.
On the inside behind the light is a bolt with a Phillips head screw, remove this. Gently push the headlight forward towards the front of the car, you may have to use a wood stick or screwdriver, gently to not mess up the paint and the light will slowly work its way forward. Reassemble by just pushing the light back till the screwholes line up and reinsert screw.
your vehicle needs an idle relearn needs to be done by a Mitsubishi agentmay also have a faulty stepper motor for the idle control or the battery may be losing to much voltage during start up
I'm not sure of that models location of the the ECM, or ecu, but I'm betting it's under the passenger side seat, or located on the right side passenger kick panel, if it's under the seat, removing the seat makes it way easier, unplug the old ecm's connector(s), undo 3-4 10mm bolts that ground the ecm to the trucks metalwork, install the new ecm by boldint it to the metalwork first to insure you do not accidentally short with static or what not the new ecm, then plug the harness back in. If it's on the kickpanel, same process, just be prepared to get a crick in your back when you take it out.
remove the screws. make sure you don
No. If you have no experience, TAKE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL. Im telling you, dont do it. You can very easily fry something in your car. Remote starts are nothing to mess around with. Remote starts are in a whole different league than putting stuff like decks, speakers, amps, whatever. Seriously, you make one mistake, it could cost you hundreds to thousands of dollars to replace it.
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com:16080/Autoloc/Products/Products_CL.lasso COPY AND PASTE, THIS MAY HELP YOU ON A DO IT YOUR SELF
beast way to describe it, put your front end on jack stands, crawl under on the driver side, look up and to the right. it is located behind the right wheel inside the engin compartment. You'll need to work from underneath mostly. but may fin you need to jockey it into position from the top.
To replace it you should just be able to take off the cover around thesteering column and snap it in where the old one was. I would be able Tobe more detailed if I could find a replacement.
i am going on past experience here, but newer dashes(instrument panels) are all digital and just plug into a holder or wiring harness,the days of speedometer cables are basically gone forever.So,disconnect battery and find shroud screws and remove cover,then find instrument cluster screws and undo,cluster should then come out,look on back side for wiring plugs.
get a good eye loop and be in well lit area and inspect the pins were they are soldered into the board.If you find a solder connection that looks like it has a round crack or i/2 round crack then there is probably the problem.This called a cold solder joint.You can resolder if you know how or find an electronics buddy who knows how to solder and let him/her do it for you. If you have instrument with digital numbers it is on possibly the digital display has gone bad,in that case it's junk yard time or purchase a new one.hope this helps.
I belong to the FTO owners club here in England. I found some information you may be looking for. http://ftooc.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=18530&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
You need to look down low, below the battery area. There is only a stubby round knob coming straight up from the front edge of the transmission casing itself. There is no tube coming up and extending the stick upwards, you need to reach way down low. Use a flashlight the first time if possible. Steve in MN
Theoretically you can supercharge any internal combustion motor. Practically, there probably is not much in the way of off-the-shelf parts available to supercharge a 2.4 litre Mitsubishi motor. In addition, the relatively small size of the motor (compared to many supercharged motors) means it would be difficult to achieve large power or torque gains.
If you really want to go down this path I would advise a turbo instead of a supercharger.
wire / color / polarity / location....
12volts white + ignition harness
Starter black/yellow + ignition harness
Ignition black/white + ignition harness
Accessory blue/black + ignition harness
Second Accessory blue/white + ignition harness
Notes: Not required for remote start.
Keysense blue ignition harness
Notes: The wire rests at ground with the key out of the ignition cylinder, and goes to an open circuit when the key is inserted.
Power Lock purple - driver kick, door harness
Power Unlock lt. green - driver kick, door harness
Lock Motor blue/red 5wi driver kick, door harness
Unlock Motor white 5wi driver kick, door harness
Parking Lights+ grn/yel (L), grn/wht (R) + wht plug bottom of fuse box
Hazards white - hazard switch
Turn Signal(L) lt. green or white/blue + driver kick, harness to rear
Turn Signal(R) yellow + driver kick, harness to rear
Reverse Light brown + driver kick, harness to rear
Door Trigger white - wht plug bottom of fuse box
Dome Supervision use door trigger
Trunk/Hatch Pin green/orange - light in trunk
Factory Alarm Arm N/A
Factory Alarm Disarm gray - driver kick, door harness
Tachometer black/yellow or black/green ac either ignition coil
Brake Wire green + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake blue/red - parking brake switch
Horn Trigger blue/red or red - steering column
Notes: It is blue/red on the standard models and red on the Evolution VIII models.
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: DEI 555U (requires a programed key for remotestart)
Notes: Only the Evolution VIII models have the immobilizer.
You'll need an inductive timing light. Connect to the battery, and clip the induction lead over the #1 spark plug wire. Start the car. The timing mark on the crankshaft pully will appear stationary when you point the light at it, and should correspond to the timing guage(mounted on the timing belt cover). Look on the emissions tag in the engine compartment to determine the correct setting. You'll need to loosen the nuts that hold the distributor , so you'll be able to rotate it. Watch your fingers, tie back your hair, and avoid loose fitting clothing! What year is your car, and what is the timing recommended on the emissions tag?
Is this vehicle all wheel drive? The vehicle is fwd so yes it can be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground.
Answer == Rebuild/replace the engine.
5 degrees before top dead center
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