A bicycle helmet can be anything from USD 30 to USD 200. Get the one that fits your head, and looks nice enough so that you use it.
ROAD RASH does not feel good to your face, well that is what i think. yous a full face helmet for the max speed plus some that you would be going at.
(try it at 5 mil an hour and if you nose is still there then go faster .... no really don't do that you need your face) yous a full face helmet.
Most stock Harleys will be 1 down; shifter all the way to the bottom, and then half up to neutral, then depending on the number of gears, 2-3-4-5 the rest are all up.
With a "heel-toe" shifter it would be 1 toe down then 2-3-4-5 heels down.
Front 36 Rear 38
In the opinion of Timberwoof of Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ, "An hour at highway speeds will subject your ears to enough wind noise to cause some hearing loss."
Need: If you want to maintain your hearing as well as you can in your later years.
Want: Probably. While strictly speaking they aren't necessary. At higher speeds (50 or more), a helmet gets very loud. Hearing damage due to loud noise is cumulative, so the more you ride at 50+ MPH, the more you will benefit from ear plugs. It's also far less fatiguing to ride at highway speeds with ear plugs in--the fatigue being pretty much exactly what you feel after attending a long, loud music concert. That being said, many would argue that earplugs can be hazardous when riding through town at low speeds. They may keep you from hearing engines, brakes, horns, sirens, screams, etc. at low speed, but many do not find this to be the case. In fact, people often find they can hear more of the meaningful sounds such as those mentioned above and less of the unimportant ambiant sounds.
Conclusion: Use earplugs based on the riding you'll be doing that day. Be extra careful on your first ride with earplugs while you become comfortable.
This question has been answered twice one saying yes and the other saying no or (not always). So based on those two answers we can be clear that one of them is right.
NOTE: When it comes to hearing loss there is only one thing we are in control of and that is noise. Noise is the enemy of hearing, and many doctors are discovering that it doesn't take as much noise as previously thought to cause temporary or permanent hearing loss.
I'm going to give you a quota I found in research done by the World Health Organization (WHO) and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Which states that as little as 30 minutes of exposure to decibel levels measured on a Motorcycle has the potential to result in hearing loss.
With that said: I as a motorcyclist for many years have never used ear plugs... and my last hearing test did not show any hearing lost even after a good 20 some years riding a motor at least 5 days a week.. since I use it as my main mode of transportation from work and back..
My advice to anyone riding a bike... consider exactly what you are doing... if you are like me and ride it daily but for short periods of time and wear a good helmet... then you do not really need them... however if you going for a long trip... consider ear plugs..
My opinion is that people that use headphones have more to worry about their hearing then a motorcycle rider that is wearing his or her helmet and is operating their bike in a matter that is reasonable.
Another opinion from a rider who commutes over 500 miles a week on either a Kawasaki Concours or a Honda VTX 1800 - wear earplugs. Hearing damage is cumulative and does not recover. I have been riding for 25 years and only the last few have been wearing earplugs. I now have slight tinnitus (ringing of the ears). Wearing earplugs greatly reduces high frequency noise, but can also transmit low frequency noise from your hemet liner directly to your ear, if part of the earplug touches the liner. Consider a set of Eyptomic 20Db plugs, which allow you to hear some traffic noise while protecting you from louder noise damage. Costs about $15 for a set that will last about 15K miles.
Another opinion: All of your senses are needed for rider safety. Hearing included, obviously helping you be aware of engine tone, approaching vehicles, changes in weather conditions, a warning horn etc.
Your motorcycle will go through various "zones" of oscillatory stability and instability as it accelerates up to its highest speed. you might even compare this to musical notes or octaves of relative vibrational resonance.
Steering dampners are made to help with this problem as the main dampner ( you ) cannot always handle the correction of the vibrations.
The best advise is to slow down, as this can be a fatal but also unavoidable occurrence and even though the problem may go away with more speed the best way to take the bike out of that particular resonance range is to back off.
The tread of your tires could also be a contributing factor, particularly the front one. different treads have different resonant properties.
In addition to above, get both wheels statically and dynamically balanced. It reduces wobble, increases road holding and reduces tire wear and rider fatigue. Check forks and swing arm for correct operation. A lack of fork oil and too much side play in the swing arm are sources of vibration. Check panier box lids are fitting properly and are locked. Lid 'chatter' in the wind can be one of those resonances mentioned above that sets wobble off.
If your motorcycle is pulling a sidecar or has a handlebar-mounted fairing, this will increase the likelihood of a steering wobble under certain conditions. The wind wash from driving near a semi truck can also cause a steering wobble.
Although many things can contribute to starting a wobble, they generally won't happen if your steering head bearings are properly maintained. Test your steering head bearings by accelerating to 50 mph or so on a straight, smooth road on a calm day with no oncoming traffic. Close the throttle and remove your hands from the handlebars. If your bike's steering seems to pick a direction and stick there, your steering head bearings are too tight. If there is any wobble at all, your steering head bearings are too loose.
Here's the answer given in Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ: When it rains, slow down a bit. Be aware that the first rains in the season will cause all the accumulate oil and spooge to float up to the surface and make the roads really slick for the first hour or three. Keep practicing your panic stops. Be aware that since there is less traction, your rear wheel will even more readily lock up, so be gentle with it until you get a feel for its traction in the wet. To deal with rain on your visor: On the freeway, alternate between turning your head to the right and to the left. (Keep your eyes looking ahead!) The wind blast will blow the water off your face shield, just like it does from the side of your car. A great rule of thumb to remember when your driving in a dangerous condition is "following distance." If you read the book you should know that you should be at least 3 car distances if you are going 30 to 40 mph. If you increase that by 1 or 2 more cars you can save you own life. note: driving in the rain. you can drive at high speeds can seem like normal, but take off is dangerous, and stopping also. joe hojas Apply power/acceleration smoothly and evenly. Avoid being to heavy handed with the accelerator as the rear wheel will spin more freely in the wet. Ride with your lights on (smart riders will have their lights on at all times) as this will make you more visible to other motorists. Increase your stopping distances. All the answers above are very good advice when it comes to all-day rain, but I think the best advice, according to MOST motorcycle training courses is as follows. Pull off the road at the soonest possible safe time and have a refreshment/lunch break and a circle check of your scoot. Most storms pass within a few minutes, you (and your scoot) get a rest, and you stay dry. (wink-wink) The best thing to do is to wait 1/2 hr after the first rain hits. this gives enough time for the oil and dirt to wash off the road. After 1/2 hour of decent rain fall (not a mist), you have over 80% of the traction of dry road. Other than that, be careful, go slow, increase following distance and slow down slower.
Here's the summary from Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ: A high-side is where the bike suddenly regains traction after beginning to skid and spits the rider over the bike. The rider typically exits on the high side of the bike�the side not closest to the ground. A low-side is simply where the bike loses traction and skids into the ground with the rider remaining on the low side of the bike�the side closest to the ground. High-sides are usually more severe. The most common high-side accident scenario is where the rider loses traction at the rear wheel (due to excessive power or over-braking), the bike starts to skid, the rider regains traction suddenly by releasing the brake or chopping the power, and the bike immediately regains traction and spits the rider over the bike and tumbles. The key to avoiding this is learning not to chop the power and not to overuse the rear brake. Low sides mean you slide out on your bum or side. High sides literally throw you over the bike into the air, often with the bike landing on top of you. Try not to high side.
* In the opinion of Timberwoof of Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ: HJC, Arai, Shoei, or Nolan. He notes, "The best helmet for you is one that you can afford, that fits, and that you'll wear every time you get on the motorcycle. A $100 Snell and DOT rated helmet is just as safe as a $500 one ... but not as comfortable on long trips. Get a good helmet and wear it always." * Although pricey, many consider Bell to be top of the line. * Many higher end helmets (Arai, Shoei, Suomy) include a removable/washable liner and/or removable cheekpads which aid comfort and a safe and snug fit. You are safer in a helmet that fits properly, and many people wear helmets sized too large thinking it's more comfortable, but safety is compromised. Look for a helmet with a good face shield latching system (typical of the higher end, but not exclusive to just the pricey helmet brands). And while helmets with chin bars (called "full face" helmets) are slightly more restrictive than "open face" helmets, they offer much more facial/skeletal protection and should bear much consideration when you're helmet shopping. * Don't forget that different helmets are made out of different materials. For example, some helmets are a polycarbonate/kevlar combination. This can help increase safety and rigidity. As mentioned above, get the helmet that fits you the best and that is of the highest quality (in many ways the most expensive that you can afford).
I don't know about you but I would rather wear the correct gear then lose the skin off my arms, legs, and face because I wanted to look "cool".
Gear can be replaced....Your body can't
9 is a great age to start out with maybe even younger i got mine when i was 8 i wouldnt try to hold off longer the younger the better and it depends if they want to get them into motor cross (very fun) :)
YES, with proper training and supervision 9 is a great age to start. Bikes are safer than ATVs IMO because in crashes bikes tend to go one way and you the other, while ATVs tend to get on top of you. Also, experience on a diet bike is a skill that can one day transfer to the street. Should your kid become of age and decide to buy a street bike he will already have some very usable skills.
The opposite of a wheelie. According to Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ, "A stoppie is when you stop with the front brake in such a way that you purposely bring the rear wheel off the ground." Stoppies are kind of a dangerous trick. It is when you stop on the front wheel, weight forward, and being the rear wheel off the ground to a balance position. The reason why it is SO dangerous is because if the bike stops faster than you think that it will, you may flip over the handlebars. And the bike may also land on you. So if you are going to try this trick be REALLY careful. Also called an Endo,,,,,,,,,,,, Since this question is on the safety section I will suggest that you don't do it.. Unless you are professional and since you are asking the question my guess is that you are not... Answer unless you are a dare devil then in which case we can not and absolutely will not be able to be held legally response able for your idiotic actions.
There is an easy remedy for ALL of your problems. Catch it before it starts or even cover up a hole with a BANTHEBURN.com patch. It is easily applied, and I received my package within a week. Simply adhere the patch to any rain suit or even a pair of pants, let dry then ride your worries away.
For first gear, Hold the clutch, press the gear down, accelerate slowly and leave the clutch gradually... For the rest of the gears, hold clutch, press the gear down accelerate a little more than the current moving speed and leave the clutch a little faster than before...
Here's are the answers given in Timberwoof's Motorcycle FAQ: How do I ride with a passenger? Donï¿½t, until you have enough solo experience. After that, go slower and brake earlier. How much experience should I have? Some people are perfectly capable of carrying passengers right away; others need a year or two of riding experience. Unlike luggage, passengers are heavy, floppy, and move by themselves. What do I need to tell my passenger? Tell them not to ride with you. Tell them that if theyï¿½re gonna ride with you they have to wear safety gear (helmet, gloves, boots, leather or Cordura jacket and at LEAST long pants). Tell them to look over your inside shoulder in a turn and never to put their feet down until you tell them to dismount. And HOLD ON. It depends on your personal preference and the type of bike, along with your level of experience. I personally would rather have that person on a different bike next to me than on the back of mine, since usually passengers are not riders themselves, and therefore do not understand that their movements are felt and need to be counteracted by the driver. make sure they know to NOT PUT THEIR FEET DOWN DURING A TURN. I've stopped giving rides to my friends because they do not understand this concept and are endangering themselves and me. I do think it's good for you to ride with a passenger at least once, to know what it's like in case you need to in an emergency. WHen I was 18 and had just gotten my license, my dad made me ride with him on the back so i would know what it would feel like. Once I was confortable with that, he shifted more and more to make me realize how squirmy passengers can be. I HIGHLY recommend an experience like this.. Another good thing to tell your passenger would be "Don't lean" a passenger should always stay perfectly straight with the bike! Turning their head to look at the scenery is perfectly fine but the second they lean one way or the other, they throw off the balance of the bike and the driver is tasked with correcting. The day I got my bike on the road, first time I wasn't a passenger, I went and picked up my girlfriend and gave her a ride... she had never been on a bike before so when we took the first turn, she got scared thinking we were going to fall and leaned the opposite way. In doing so she almost sent us off the side of the road. Luckily I knew how to correct. If you're going to have a rider on the back make sure they know not to lean... she never did it again!
This is a poorly phrased question, but we'll assume you want to know a bikes top speed with a 250cc engine. First, there are many other factors that determine an engine's peak hp other than it's displacement. Top speeds are generally influenced by aerodynamics, gearing, grip, and force (HP). A rider can reduce air resistance by leaning forward on the bike. Weight will effect acceleration, not top speed.
There are different 250cc motorcycles, CC = cubic centimeters, this is the capacity of the cylinders in the engine. There is no specific speed of a 250cc bike. you could have a 250cc dirt bike that goes about 60mph, or a 250cc Honda rebel that does 80. Hope this helps a little.
My suggestion is to work your way up.. start with a 50cc and next go no higher then a 125cc.
This bike will easily go 55mph or a little higher~ not fast by automotive speeds go..
But can cause alot of problems if you fall off the bike. Another bonus for a 125cc is the fact that they are very cheap if you buy used on eBay or at a local bike store..
As you get more comfortable riding the 125cc ... which shouldn't be very long... resell the bike and use the money to make a downpayment on something larger...
38 front 40 rear
It depends on the gear ratio of the drive and driven gears. I would test it out, or call the person you got the scooter from.
You thought fractions would never be good for anything!
Forget the numbers and concentrate on the units:
What would you multiply this by to cancel the hours?
60 miles hours miles
-------- x ----- = -----
1 hour sec sec
What is hours/second? There are 3600 seconds in 1 hour so
hours/second = 1 hour/3600 seconds which means:
60 miles 1 hour 60 miles
-------- x -------- = --------
1 hour 3600 sec 3600 sec
Now, what would you multiply miles/sec by to get feet/sec?
60 miles feet feet
-------- x ---- = ----
3600 sec mile sec
What is feet/mile? There are 5280 feet in 1 mile so
feet/mile = 5280 feet/1 mile which means:
60 miles 5280 feet 60 x 5280 feet
-------- x --------- = --------------
3600 sec 1 mile 3600 sec
60 x 5280 = 316800
then dived the bottom into the top and you get your answer.
This works for any conversion. You just multiply the fractions that
are appropriate and you end up with the answer.
Sixty miles per hour works out at 88 feet per second.
This question seems more like math homework then about motorcycle safety...
Technically the answer is "No.."
The one in the showroom You may as well ask "what is the safest handgun" A motorcycle has two wheels and they go fast - eventually you will fall off - it's the law of SMIDGY (sorry mate, I didn't see you) I've been riding bikes for more than 30 years and I haven't seen a "safe" one yet. What makes a bike safe is your attitude and the training that you have right at the start.
Wear good gear. Wear a helmet. Keep your brain connected with your right wrist and then your going to be as safe as your ever going to be.
1 down and 5 up is traditional, however if its equipped with a GP shifter, it will be 1 up and 5 down
In a wet acid battery the water should just cover the plates. However, most motorcycle batteries are sealed-for-life and/or gel batteries. They need no maintenance, they should not be opened. Check which type you have fitted.
Give me food and I will live give me water and I will die what am I?
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