yes it will. use motorcycle oil only

its a motorcycle made by Honda

Honda does not require Synthetic oil for the Goldwing. So it's up to you.

BTW: I have never heard of a wing dying due to an oil related problem.

Mine is still running strong at 110,000 miles changed every 8k per Honda.

200 blaster will lose off the line. but in the long run it will win

10w-40 ATV or motorcycle oil should be fine.

it culd b u have dirty points..? or ur solanoid, spark plug, magnito? there r alot or reasons.. i suggest yu get the owners manual, or talk 2 mii? lol

i also have a 1988 along with a bike mechanic i know has one too

both of us had the same problem.

often times it is not the magneto...its most likely your stator wires. they are known for burning up on the 1988 cr's

or it could be your carb. take it off clean it really good and then try and start it. if that doesnt do it you need stator wires.

what is the valve clearance 2004/05 -450trx

i have a 1998 cr 125r and im guessin urs should be close to about half a litre.

there is a bleeder screw at the bottom of the case, take that out, fill it until oil spills out then replace the screw and you should be good.

good luck

nope

100% stock = over 160mph

some light mods = over 170mph

Call your agent and ask the question

If you live in British Columbia you can apply for "collector" plates cause it's 25+ in age. For bikes I believe all you need is a couple of pics, but you'd have to check with ICBC.

If you have a good driving record it should be quite reasonable.

I own a 82 Honda Magna with collector plates and it costs me $166 a year. My driving record is perfect.

to set the points you have options. The most precise way is to obtain a clear sight glass timing viewer to see the crank marks,or you could use a continuity tester and set the points without the engine running ; or as I decided to do was to replace the points with a solid state module. The later is more precise and stays in time longer. After my change,my bike not only ran better,but idled very smoothly at 900 rpm. Buy the module at your dealer.....approx 149.00

On the neck of the frame, on its side. This is where the frame is joined in front.

87 mph

17.

10w40

3.5 quarts.

NSR Means " Noob Sucking Rimjob ".

is that the only mod done to this quad? if so then i recommend getting a kit and changing the main to 280 then doing a plug chop. most likely you will need to lower it a size or to to about a 270 with the needle in the 4th position. stock main jet is a 240

Given the era of manufacture, oils were a lot "simpler" back then. Good old Castrol "GTX" or "Grand Prix" or similar Mineral 10w-40 or 20w-50 will do the job just fine. Avoid anything with "friction modifiers" in it as the clutch won't like it a lot.

The secret with ALL egines like this that do not use a replaceable filter -change the oil OFTEN -if it turns black, you've left it too long.

Also, under the RHS crankcase cover is a "slinger" which needs cleaning periodically if ridden regularly, Annually, at least. You'll need to replace the cover gasket in all probability when doing this.

AVOID AT ALL COSTS using RTV or any form of silicon sealant in lieu of a new gasket. It could cost you your engine. (Don't say I didn't warn you!!)

This is an extremely reliable & robust engine -as long as you keep clean oil up to it. The harder you thrash it, the more often you should change the oil. 1000 Miles max will reward with long life. It doesn't hold much, & the oil does gearbox duty as well, remember.

"Fresh oil is a cheap spanner"

Pull the spark plug(s) and crank the engine to make sure you flush out any water from the combustion chamber. Hydrolocking an engine can blow a headgasket, or worse, snap a connecting rod.

Once you've made sure your combustion chamber is clear of water, you can replace the plugs and start your ATV as normal.