my Beretta is a 94 and it hood release is broke just the silver cable show ,,, i use needle nose pliers and pull it !

525,600

usually your local boneyard can help you. they usually have a bunch of different years and models. with your part the same piece is in berettas and some corsicas from the years of 91-96, so any of those should match. jeremy aka ccz5105

Its a front wheel drive coupe produced by Chevrolet. More specifically' it was produced by their division of General Motors in the 1987-1996 model design.

Find this book "The World of Beretta: An International Legend"

Start at the longest lin (RR) and work toward the shortest line (LF)

Fill master cylinder reservoir (do not let get empty)Have assistant push and hold brake pedal down aprrox. 3/4 of the way to the floor

Connect a plastic hose to bleeder screwSubmerge other end of hose in a container partailly filled with brake fluid

Open bleeder screw and watch container for air bubblesClose bleeder and have assistant repeat until no air bubbles are present then move on to next wheel and repeat

First you start the car. Then you let it idle or drive it until it reaches operating temp. Finally you turn the heater on to the defrost setting.

so far from what i have seen with mine unless it has the full power options package no it does not

I added a link that may have some info for you. This is for the J-body. (Cavalier/Sunbird) but a lot of it will be the same for you. Most guys on the site that have done the swap will tell you it's not worth the headache. The 3400 and now 3500 swap puts out almost as much power, the engine weighs less, and the swap is much easier than the 3.8. The few that have done the 3.8 SC swap can't get the power to the ground. It looks cool but is fairly useless in these light cars. You can also turbo charge the 3400 if you want even more power.

Pull the piston (through the top, meaning that you'll need to remove the head).

Have a qualified machine shop recondition the rod since the "big end" has no doubt suffered SOME damage when the bearing went bad.

Turn the crankshaft to make the affected journal "round" again, meaning that you'll need to pull the crankshaft.

While you have it apart you'll probably notice that one or more OTHER bearings are worn through the babbit material. If you see copper on the bearing, don't re-use it. In fact, it's a good idea to have the machine shop check and recondition ALL rods, and since you'll probably have to turn more than one journal you may as well plan on all new bearings.

While you have the heads off and the pistons out, check for cylinder "taper". That's when the cylinder has worn a little over time. If you have noticeable taper, plan on boring the cylinders and replacing the pistons.

And since the heads are off, have them checked as well. There is absolutely no point in putting a worn head back on a new engine.

Also, check the cam and lifters for wear, and if you've gone that far, plan to replace the oil pump, timing chain...

In short, a bearing doesn't usually go bad all by itself. Most likely the rest of the engine is pretty well worn out too.

Sounds like the Torque Converter Lockup Solenoid is bad. To verify this, disconnect the solenoid and see if it then stops stalling. If so the solenoid needs replacing. You can drive it with it disconnected although your fuel mileage will go down.Where is it located and how do you disconect it ?

those fuese carry your ecm and eprom

I have a Beretta (a '96 but I think it could be the same thing), and when my water pump was going out,it caused it to stall ALL the time after it would warm up. I didn't realize a water pump would even effect something like that. But check your pump- if it's moving side-to-side like it looks like it could slide right off,it needs to be replaced.That will fix the stalling,I promise you.Other reasons? Don't know. if its an automatic tranny open the hood look down to the tranny and you will see a sensor with two wire coming off it cut these two wires and the stalling will stop.my 93 stalled all the time,drove me nuts and my local mechanic showed me this sensor and said its something gm put on for no good reason and discovered that diabling it was best so he cut these wires and i havent had a stall since.

its usually the ruber seal above the door u need to take the seal off inspect for tears or rips if looks ok sceaz the iner metal rib all the way along frome one end two the other glue with weather strip adhesive and replace the moldeing this should fix the problem.

5 on 100mm. Very common on FWD GM and Chrysler vehicles of the era.

if it's the 3100 V6, it is on the right side of the front valve cover

If you mean the instrument cluster, it's actually kind of a pain in the butt.

You need a Phillips screw driver, flat head screw driver, and a 1/4" ratchet driver or Torx T6 driver.

1) Start by looking under the headlight switch, you'll see two screws. Remove those.

2) Now look under the wiper control switch, remove those two screws.

3) If your Beretta has a tilting steering wheel, move it as far down as you can.

4) Now this is the tricky part, because it doesn't seem like it's the right thing to do, but this is how you do it. Grab the curved plastic over instrument cluster and pull. You'll hear creaking sounds, then it will come loose, starting near the windshield then will come off.

5) Disconnect the headlight wiring harness

6) Disconnect the wiper wiring harness.

7) There should be 4 black screws along the white outer shell of the instrument cluster. Top Right, Top Left, Bottom Right and Bottom Left. Check all the way around because there may be two on top of the steering column as well. Use either the Torx or ratchet to remove all the screws.

8) Gently pull the instrument cluster out, and flip it over. You'll see a greenish/brown circuit board with white or black thumb screws. Those are the lights. Just turn the ones that are burnt and pull them out, pull the bulb out and replace.

Once you have all the lights replaced that are burnt out, just repeat the steps in reverse.

your beretta has a leak!

It comes into the air ducts right below the windshield! Wonderful of Chevy to do this to you, but after about ten years, the vents will warp and allow water to drip into the compartment below the dash.

No worries - you won't have electrical failure. If you live in a rainy climate, you'll have at least 2 inches of water build-up in either the front or back floor area.

Choice number 1. Purchase a Wet/Dry Vacuum Cleaner.

Choice number 2. Fix the Chevy screw-up!

You must build (from scratch) a shield on top of the air intake for the heater, below the windshield. Don't ask me where to buy one, but I made one out of long sheets of durable plastic, (I'm a handyman) and screwed them into place.) They must be angled towards the front of the car, so rain can run off, and into the engine compartment, but not into the air intake vents.

Then, buy a new car and stay clear of Beretta. I had one for 16 years, (INDY) and it was hard to part with, but you MUST DO IT!

Buy an older Toyota MR2, you'll be glad you did.

It depends on the condition of the engine, and how well its been maintained. A stock 1991 3.1L MPFI V6 was rated at 140hp, but private dynos over the years have show numbers as high as 152hp, depending on the make/model/condition of the vehicle. Several factors are attributed to hp loss/gain.

Your firing sequence is 1-3-4-2. looking straight at engine from front of car, your plugs are L-R 1-2-3-4

Yes it is a direct fit. Although it is best to refer to the engines as 3100 and 3400, respectively, so as not to confuse them with 3.1L MPFI (1990-1994) and 3.4L. They are all different engines.