Try going off of the Fuse panel usually in wranglers its common for the connector (find the connector from fallowing the wire off of Horn fuse) comes loose and needs to be reset. its located by the steering column under dash.
The only way this monetarily makes sense is to have a donor vehicle. You will need to swap not only the engine but many, many other parts. Without a donor vehicle, I would forget this and sell the Jeep you now have and purchase one with a 4.0 The aforementioned is absolutely correct. I am in the midst of this task and I have labored many....hours and the main issue is the wiring harness. Granted, I did the conversion from a 1991 2.5L to a 1994 4.0L.. You must weld new motor mounts..new emissions(depending on where you live) and the WIRING HARNESS..what a pain in the...you know..new computer, new driveshaft (maybe)..and the list goes on
There are 4 different readings for 11 12 without the generic scan tool code it will be harder to determine. For 12 battery power to pcm was disconnected. for 11code p0320 no crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.for 11 codep1391 intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. for11 codep1398 ckp [crank shaft position]sensor target windows have too much variation. sorry my reference manual does not show 55 or 65 hope i helped Mine also it says PCMbut,I would check batt and did this get that hot to shut it off you will have to Waite a while until it cools down.
I just replaced my 2004 TJ Wrangler cat. I paid extra for the Walker product at car-stuff.com ($420) because it is a quality part made in the USA. The 2004 has a dual cat system with piping down to the resonator so it is a little more expensive than other years. There are also four oxygen sensors on the 04 that fit into this assembly that you should replace (they are about $150 for the set if you get the exact fit ones that plug right in) I got the DENSO brand as they are quality and the best choice and won't throw codes. Altogether it was about $600 to get the parts delivered (and I had a 10% discount from CAR-STUFF).
As far as labor, it took several hours and lots of work to get at the bolts and do a little welding - I would estimate $400 minimum to have a shop do this for you. If you just have a regular cat on a TJ other than an '04 I think you get it replaced (part and labor) for $300 or so.
the 2.0 and 1.8 turbo engine take 4.25 qts. i am unsure about how many qts the VR6 takes, but I would personally start with 5 qts.
The Mk4 2.8L. (vr6) takes 6.1 quarts of oil.
Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 1987-2006 are 5X4.5
Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 2007-2014 are 5X5
Should be the same 5x113cm
Piece of cake!
SRSly, this is what we call cakework.
1) Jack up the front of the truck ( or the affected side).
2) Remove the wheel.
3) Remove the brake caliper, pads, and rotor.
4) Remove the axle nut. I use a 36mm socket.
5) Remove the three hub bolts (from the back of the spindle) ea.:
5a) You will need a 1/2 12 point inch ratcheting box wrench and larger
box wrench as I use or a 1/2 inch 12 pt. socket and ratchet with
long handle for rich folks who can afford such luxuries.
5b) Force the bolt to loosen 1/4 turn, then retighten. Spray the threads
with penetrating oil, then loosen as far as it will go (not much) easily.
Now curse about Mopar and rust. Ask a sailor for help if needed. Wire wheel or
5c) Go to 5b) until the bolt is out.
6) Use a sharp chisel and hammer to draw the hub bearing out of the spindle. Try not to use the chisel near the bolt holes.
7) Use a sanding disc remove any burrs from the hub mating surface of
the spindle.
8) Use wheel bearing greasre or moly grease to coat the splines of the
axle, the big hole in the spindle, and the threads of the bolts.
9) Put it all together.
10) If you got lazy and didn't do step #7, get a wheel alignment, then
drive for about 5k miles, repeat steps 1-9, then get a wheel
alignment again.
All things I've read show that up until 75 it should have a D44's
Dana 30 in front Dana 44 in rear,good axles!
The 4.0 2001 Jeep Wrangler needs 6 quarts of oil for an oil change.
For the hose from Master to slave no, there is a fitting on the drivers side at the top left of the bell housing for disconnect. If your problem is after that then maybe, normal brake line repair pieces will fix a broken line, 1/4 inch I believe.
You shouldn't be losing pressure, if you are there is something not working correctly.
Check your fuel pressure regulator, that is one place where excess pressure is routed back to the fuel tank, and where a malfunction could make you lose pressure while the vehicle sits.
Another option would be to let the fuel pump run a few seconds before starting the vehicle.
The regulator, check valve, and pump are part of the same module in the tank. Either replace the fuel pump module or cycle the key before starting ot prime the system.
I'm going through this same problem, everything is fine with the pressure, then when you drive around for a while and come to a stop the oil pressure drops and the check gauges light comes on. After replacing the oil pump and pressure sending unit i still had the problem. My "mechanic" (who sucks by the way) said the problem would be fixed after replacing the pump, and $400 later the problem was still there. I decided to just buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge from Auto Zone, paid $15 threw it in the jeep and everything is fine now. The oil pressure is steady at 25psi when stopping now. The check guages light stays on and believe the check engine light will come on because the computer senses no pressure, but i believe you can buy a gauge the connect to your on board computer. Its a lilttle more money though. I wish I had done this before investing money in to the other problems.
To do it yourself, 30 or 40 bucks, for someone else to do it 2-3 hundred.
Its all about the labor, brake lines and fittings are cheap, but that job takes time to do.