Yes, they should fit just fine

1995-2006 will interchange.2007-2012 will interchange

19 gallons

The only way this monetarily makes sense is to have a donor vehicle. You will need to swap not only the engine but many, many other parts. Without a donor vehicle, I would forget this and sell the Jeep you now have and purchase one with a 4.0 The aforementioned is absolutely correct. I am in the midst of this task and I have labored many....hours and the main issue is the wiring harness. Granted, I did the conversion from a 1991 2.5L to a 1994 4.0L.. You must weld new motor mounts..new emissions(depending on where you live) and the WIRING HARNESS..what a pain in the...you know..new computer, new driveshaft (maybe)..and the list goes on

It is not recommended.

Took 2 quarts for mine.

Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 1987-2006 are 5X4.5

Jeep Wrangler wheel lug patterns years 2007-2014 are 5X5

Should be the same 5x113cm

It will use normal antifreeze and it should be mixed 50/50 with water.

It does not matter.

6 quarts

you can't flip the rear seat up. I believe the proper procedure would be to remove or loosen the rear seat using the bolts on the rear floor pan. They might have carpet flaps covering them. Carefully check the rear floor pan. **On an 02' liberty the tire jack is under the passenger rear seat. There is a knob on the front face. Simply unscrew the knob to remove the jack.**

No

on the signal light switch

To add to this... This initial answer really helped me out for my 2004 jeep liberty. Let me add a few more details to "give back" to those who helped me out.

I had first taken off the bottom plastic shroud which sits straight up above the floor board

and down below and back under from the the glove box. This was where I was kinda being steered from book I was trying to use to do the replacement of the resistor.

Then I came in and googled and found this pointing me to take out the glove box... from there I saw the resistor mounted into the firewall so took out the two bolts and pulled out the resistor with the wiring harness still plugged in. Then the challenging part at that point was to get the harness unplugged from the resistor. As was mentioned below, it is "non-intuitive" as to how to do this. By flipping over the assembly, you will see a sliding red kind of "latch" which seems to hold the harness plugged into the resistor. I was able to stick a screw driver into the back of that (wiring harness side, not the resistor side) and push it towards the resistor. This seemed to "unlock" things but it still needed some pursuation to finally unplug it.

Also, I'd note that they suggest that you take the negative lead off the battery for this surgery so to prevent any air bag triggering as you are messing around in this area.

Hope this extra detail helps.

I just did this a few months ago. It was pretty basic. You need a new resistor board, first of all. I got mine on eBay for far less than the dealer would've charged. I think there are aftermarket manufacturers of these, so you shouldn't have to pay OEM costs. The resistor device is located behind the glovebox, mounted into the firewall. The glovebox should be fully removed, it will just be a major hindrance if it is left in place. It is fairly obvious where the resistor set is because there is a substantial wiring harness attached to it. This is where my description will get a bit vague because it was so long ago. There are essentially a couple screws/bolts holding the existing resistor unit in the firewall, and there is also some kind of fancy clipping mechanism on the wiring harness. These all need to be removed obviously, and installation is simply the reverse. I remember nearly breaking the harness locking device b/c it was so non-intuitive, but I also think I remember that the lock wasn't essential, i.e. the harness would probably stay connected regardless.

It can.

For the hose from Master to slave no, there is a fitting on the drivers side at the top left of the bell housing for disconnect. If your problem is after that then maybe, normal brake line repair pieces will fix a broken line, 1/4 inch I believe.

10 PSI minimum at idle

To do it yourself, 30 or 40 bucks, for someone else to do it 2-3 hundred.

Its all about the labor, brake lines and fittings are cheap, but that job takes time to do.

It possible that youre still going too fast to get into that gear. The clutch and pilot bearing could worn out also. Good luck.

for each speed and gear there is a specific speed at which it is safe to downshift to the next gear with a known blip strength. being human you cant be perfect and know exactly what blip strength will do right for just about any speed to any lower gear (demanding the car shift whenever you feel like it), So you have to simplify things a bit and make it known where you can get away with doing the same blip all the way on down the line. the most gentle blip possible. shifting wherever the car feels like it. You gotta jump through some circus hoops. the car is a whole lot more picky than you ever thought and if you arent willing or able to make repeatable very high blips, then your options will be all the more limited and shifting slow and drawn out. which is the norm.

use the gear ratios in conjunction with the final drive ratio to make a graph of the vehicle speed to rpms. find discreet speeds where there are 300 rpm differences. and then use post it notes to mark on the speedometer where those places are. if you cant do that, just secure a copy of a manual displaying a speed to rpm wrt gear graph. i know it sounds riduculous. on the track yo dont worry because you expect damage while full out. but you are on the road, you have to be gentle or incur the wrath of the mechanic touching your wallet.

in rpms and mph that formula is 6.51*k*V/r = Wrpm where k = gear ratio of chosen gear x final drive ratio, and r = radius (IN FEET) of your rear wheel(s).

the final equation to find those exact spots is V= (dW*r)/(k2-k1)6.51 where k2 is the effective gear ratio for the chosen lower gear to shift into. and k1 is the gear you inhabit before the shift. dW is the supposed blip you wish to use in rpm's.

there should be 4 of these spots for a 5 speed, and if you change the dW by 10% and recompute either way, you will get the range, the bands you will see.

the point is, you arent missing out if you arent using the tachometer. things happen too fast in shifting to rely on that. you rely on the speedometer and sure enough there are little 'bands' that if your needle rests inside of that band, it is safe to downshift with a known force of blip, most notably, for me on the streets, the softest one. its really just a soft stroke of the gas. it stands for about 300 rpms on a small tacoma.

the band for 5 to 4 is wide and very forgiving (it lies farthest out). 4 to 3 is a bit smaller and lies towards a lower speed. 3 to 2 is a little hitler mustache of a zone (probably near 20-30). Sooo small and all alone. 2nd to first is like splitting hairs, you do it with such gentleness and even then you get a slow kick in the butt. that sir, is a 2 mph wide zone somewhere inbetween 0 and 10mph.

the math is grueling if you dont make a graph of it, but with the post it note appliques you should be able to do very close to perfect downshifts even in tight and hairy traffic conditions where you kind of need it the most.

on the track its one size fits all and you follow by ear and you know in what gear each turn must be taken because things move too fast even to look at the speedometer.

4.

Worn, loose, or broken suspension parts. Have the suspension inspected by a professional. This can be a very dangerous situation, and I suggest you attend to this ASAP.

If that rubicon also happens to be a 4 door, as long as the years and doors match up you wont have any issues, there are no differences between trim packages

The 2003 Jeep Wrangler has a 5-speed manual.

With the proper tools & patience, this should not be too difficult if you have moderate mechanical skills. First start about a week BEFORE you plan to take them off and soak them with PB Blaster or another good penetrating oil (WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil but a moisture dispersant). The get breaker bars & AIR TOOLS. Be gentle. If these will not loosen the bolts & nuts, take it to a shop & have them do it cause they will probably need to torch the shocks off (the extreme heat ex[ands the nuts so they can be loosened. But by soaking the nuts/bolts for about a week, it usually allows them to be broken loose with the tools most people have available. Then buy some GOOD shcks to put on. I put on Edlebrocks & was amazed at the ride difference in my 1991 Wrangler. Of course they also cost about $75 each so were not cheap but worth it in my opinion. I liked them so much I also used Edlebrock when I replaced my Yukon's shocks. If you decide to do it yourself, make sure you practice good safety. Use jack stands and make sure vehicle is solid on them BEFORE pulling tires & crawling underneath.

No. The entire driveline would need to be replaced. You could if you change the engine, trans, wiring , computer, radiator,.......