It should be located behind the glovebox under the passenger side of the dash area, close to the firewall.

For a gas leak a person needs to check the gas line, along with a few other things. They need to check the seals, the pumps, and the fuel filter, to see where it is coming from, and then replace the part.

5. 2 Upper ball joints, 2 outer tie rods, and 1 trac bar.

Disconnect the Wire connector to the top next to the rear door on the inside. It connects the dome light and optional rear window wiper .

Remove the 5 Sheet metal screws that are above the windshield on the inside.

Remove the 4 Torx bolts on either side under the side windows. You will want an extension as one bolt on each side is right next to the roll bar.

Remove the aluminum trim plates that are under the bolts on either side.

Open the rear window and close the rear door. (or remove the spare) Have a friend get on one side while you are on the other holding inside the door opening and the the rear window opening. Lift straight up at least a couple inches as there is an over hang with the front of the top and the windshield frame.

Installation is the reverse obviously.

A word of warning: The sheet metal screws in the front will start to strip out the holes on the windshield frame. Once they loosen they will begin to fall out and you will start getting more wind noise than before. If it gets too bad you will actually get rain, or even snow leak in between the the top and windshield.

Flush out the heater coils. Disconnect the 2 hoses that go from the engine block labeled Heater that run from the front of the engine to the firewall. These are 5/8" hoses and a standard water hose repair female adaptor will fit nicely. Connect you water hose to this adapter and run clean water through the hoses until the water comes clean. Remove the adapter and connect the hoses back. You should bet very hot air back again.

That is the axle vent hose. It ties off to the body above the axle.

SEVEN

I believe the standard amount of four, but check your owners manual, it should be under specifications.

4.5 quarts

This depends on what you mean by "goes out". If the clutch doesn't grab anymore you will cost to a stop. If the clutch will not release, you will have a hard time stopping.

Green

A baby wrangler is a person who makes children react to the drama of a scene during the filming of a commercial, television programme, or movie.

Camshaft Position A Actuator Bank 1 Circuit High.

Could be a faulty cam sensor or wiring.

Try Grand Cherokee, they make a nice upgrade

not an easy answer... but spend some time on www.hondasuv.com forums and ull see all the pros, cons, opinions, and the things we do in and to our crv's ;)

Yes, at least all the JK's have them the rubicons have front and rear dana 44's and the saharas and sports have D30 front and D44 rear.

You've lost all pressure on the clutch cylinder.

I can't tell you if it is the master cylinder, or the slave cylinder, or just that you have a slow leak and ran too low on fluid without being there to see it.

Check the fluid level, if it's low or out refill it, then pump the clutch by hand in and out and check to see if the fluid is running out anywhere, the hose between the two cylinders may also be damaged, but you'll have to find that leak to be sure.

If no leaks are found then it is probably a slow leak, you can bleed the system and get by for a little while but replacing the leaking part will need to happen soon, it is most likely the slave cylinder though, they go bad much more often than the master cylinders.

No, CJ and TJ tops are not interchangeable

no

The 2014 Jeep Wrangler's engine produces 260 ft-lbs. @ 4800 rpm.

A code P0125 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: * Insufficient warm up time * Low engine coolant level * Leaking or stuck open thermostat * Faulty coolant temperature sensor Another Opinion. Some cars have 4 wire 02 sensors, with 4 wire 02 sensors P0125 can mean your wiring is faulty, as in you missed wired it or its grounded. It can also denote more than one 02 sensor malfunctions. The code often denotes a problem specific to the post cat 02 sensor/'s This is a fuel combustion sensory problem, usually not an engine coolant problem. Additional note: I agree. This is not a "coolant" problem. More often than not, it is an oxygen sensor on one of the banks. Best way is to invest in your own OBDII reader that has a "real time" read out of your car's signals. A P0125 will indicate that your engine is running lean as well. Check the output voltage signals that your oxygen sensors are giving out. I believe it should give a range signal of .04 to .08 voltage output depending on the idle or how much gas you put in. If one of the banks has a STEADY voltage output (i.e. no longer fluctuates), replace that particular O2 sensor. Under normal condition, it's suppose fluctuate when the engine is running. If the voltage signal no longer fluctuates, it's due for a replacement. The reason behind this is that the computer readout is starting to mis-calculate based on the wrong signal output of the bad sensor. It will then automatically try to compensate to balance the rich/lean gas ratio. But because the computer's calculation will never be correct due to the wrong voltage signal, you will then get P0125. DO NOT BUY A GENERIC BRAND when replacing an O2 sensor. That's what got me in to this mess. Stick with an OEM sensor. Try SPARKPLUGS.COM for O2 sensor replacement.

Right

As far as I know all Wranglers are four wheel drive

the little metal plate is anti rattle, and yes you need it
if it is between caliper and pad it should not evem touch disk, therefore it would not cause squeeling
try using a good brake cleaner
squeeling is usually caused by dust and grime coating parts