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235/70/r16

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you can't. simple as that. but if i'm taking you up right and you are genuinely having problems with the immobiliser then i'd reccommend you use a second and last higher digit to sort the problem out for good. just say your code is 3545 don't enter it, but instead enter 3646 and you should here a click from the drivers side engine. thats it. it worked for me and i never had a problem since. by the way if you don't know the original keycode then you won't be able to up the second and last digit accordingly so will not work. hope this helps.

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The egr has nothing to do with idling high, the egr valve is not used at all at no load. and if there was something wrong with the egr valve it would cause the idle to be very low. check your EGR valve for leaks on your exhaust manifol. If you have a factory service manual, they have trouble shooting on almost everything about your car. Check your Air filter or Fuel filter. I replace my air filter once a year, Maybe replace your Fuel filter after 30,000 miles. A high idle is typical of a vacuum leak, I don't know where the above answer has any relation to this. if you have a carb, it may not be adjusted correctly.. from: jay c.-- In my own humble opinion, irratic idle is typical of a vacum leak. I had the same problem with my 8 year old sedan, Had the idle air control valve checked, Air Flow Valve, and throttle serviced... all did not solve the fluctuating idle. My mechanic suggested to replace the gaskets (rubber seal) of the valve cover and the manifold, my car's idling perfectly, it's smoother and sounds much better. My mechanic told me that the previous repair used an inferior gaskets and compensated it by using silicon sealants... the silicon sealants eventually wore-off leaving gaps, causing leaks.

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What you are hearing is the clutch on the air conditioning pump engaging... the alternator doesn't make any noise unless the bearings are going bad and then a grinding noise will be heard.

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A flashing check engine light means that an engine cylinder misfire has been

detected . You can drive it in for repair , just avoid any rapid acceleration

or deceleration because you can damage the catalytic converter

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Frozen as in ICE? Wait.,,, FYI, Gas does not freeze, if frozen, there is water present. Frozen as in stuck? Replace it.

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First you buy a good-quality 3rd brake light kit appropriate for the mounting angle on your particular car -- see the links below for examples. If your car's left and right brake lights are separate from the left and right rear turn signals (different bulbs for the brake lights and turn signals), then you just follow the instructions with the kit. If your car has combination brake/turn lights (the same red light burns steadily for brake light or flashes for turn signal) then you must run a new wire from the brake light switch to the rear of the car to feed the new 3rd brake light -- cars with combination brake/turn lights route power from the brake light switch through the turn signal switch and then from there to the back of the car; if you try to get away without running the new wire, the 3rd brake light won't work properly and you'll backfeed other lighting circuits with random results.

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Snake Charmer

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Reasons for the shaking could be:

If the temperature has been below freezing, there could be TIRE STOP LEAK , that has gone unnoticed, and now caused a major imbalance of a tire .

Bent rim, tie rod loose, sticking brake calipers. My first guess is always tire balance, but if not that -- those would be my next guesses.

Get your wheel struts checked and replaced if necessary...my car did that and both my front struts were warn out

The wheel bearings may also be going bad in the front end. Bad wheel bearings will cause vibration in the engine compartment, leading to a rougher ride, and usually a loud rubbing noise. Unrepaired, bad bearings will eventually cause your wheel to separate from the axle. If this should happen at high speed... the axle will dig down into the concrete and send the car airborne.

There are few issues related to such a problem. A very common problem is faulty tires or incorrect wheel balance of the front tires. Check for a bulge or a wear on the tires. If all is ok..get a mechanic to check your wheel bearings. Check for a broken strut assembly or shock absorber. Check for tire rod bushings and the balance rod. Check complete front suspension.

IF SHAKING IS SEMI-VIOLENT OR ENOUGH TO CAUSE YOU TO SLOW DOWN TO LOWER SPEEDS TO REGAIN STABILITY--> MAYBE DROP PIT ARM, STEERING STABILIZER OR TRACK BAR.

The rotors on larger vehicles that are composite become out of balance and need replacing or cutting.

rattle and shake at speed is 99% of the time attributed to needing all wheels balanced. other problems listed above will happen at all speeds

I was expereincing shakes and rattle at 80-100 km/h speed, however, problem brewed and it mild vibration starts even at around 40km/h. Problem traced was bad inner axel. After changing the axel it feels like car is new born.

If it snowed recently, and the problem did not exist before the snowstorm, there may be frozen snow/ice stuck to one or more wheels, causing imbalance. Take the care to a self-serve car wash and spray the wheels from underneath the car and in the wheel wells.

I am having the same problem and I came to the conclusion that the U Joints are going bad.

It is possible that something is simply loose and the speed combined with air downforce is making it rattle against the metal. For example, in my 1988 z24 the locks used to rattle against the metal of the door at presicely 57mph.

FOR THOSE WITH 2007-2009 PONTIAC G6 vehicles.

I came to Wiki because my car was shaking between 55-60MPH. I came here to look for potential problems...but my car is a 2007 and fairly new and I had no idea why in the world it would be doing that. Checked air pressure - good to go. Just had new high performance tires put on in June (so they were mounted, balanced, etc). However, with the high performance lower tires...if you live in a state where it snows (I live in MN), the rims and wheel wells for those cars and those tires--pack snow really hard. We spent $7.00 at a car wash doing a high pressure hot water car wash to clean out the wheel wells -guess what? NO ISSUES AT ALL-went to 75MPH no problem-not even a HINT of a shake. So, I had cancelled my appt at the dealership. IF you have this type of car, or ones with high performance tires---do what I did and it may alleviate the problem. Might work for other vehicles-but I can only speak for mine.

I have 01 Civic,. I am changing Shocks & Struts,. mechanic said that cause the problem.

I have a 97 Chrysler Sebring and the recommendation to take the car to the car wash worked out great for me. After a heavy snowfall in Chicago I shoveled out my car out of snow and it was vibrating horribly between 50-65mph. I followed the advise and to it to a car-wash with hot water and asked them to specifically ensure that my wheel wells are properly de-iced. The car was a blaze after that. So if you live in a cold place, try this before you try anything else.

Looks like you have a leaky spark tube camshaft flywheel that's gunna ruin your piston lugnut better buy a new head gasket driveshaft

Your tires could be bad.

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Bill Nye has never been arrested, although he did just file for protection from his wife for trying to destroy his garden.

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I believe that is about ( 21 U.S. gallons ) I was looking at the Owner Guide

online and it shows 22.5 just like the 2002 redesign

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Dead battery?

Loose or corroded battery cables?

Blown fusable link?

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Check to see if your getting fuel at the Multi Point Injection Intake disconnect the Fuel line and then turn the ignition on and see if your getting fuel coming out of that line. If not then you have a fuel pump problem. I discovered with my 92 Dodge Colt that after it sat at my mechanics place for seven months and I finally got it back cause he never fixed it, the fuel pump doesnt work now and the tank got drained empty so I suspect the pump got corroded or rusty because of the tank being empty. You have to see if it is getting fire and fuel and has compression. The gas is porbably bad and neeeds replaced.

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there is no timing belt it has a timing chain

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Your wheels could be out of alignment; however, it is probably your wheels are out of balance. I would have this checked and repaired, if it is not fixed this will cause your tires too wear faster.

Worn Parts like a radius arm bushing , wheel bearings , or even upper or lower ball joints can cause a shaking in your front end.

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If it is out of specification the rear, yes. If it is in specification, no. Makes sense, doesn't it!

Some cars have adjustable alignment angles in the rear, and do indeed call for a four-wheel alignment. On many cars, there are no rear adjustments, but the front wheels should be aligned with respect to the rear, what is properly called a thrust-angle alignment. Unfortunately, many shops are not careful with their terminology and use the term "four-wheel alignment" when they really mean "thrust-angle alignment." Even so, they usually correctly distinguish between cars that have alignable rear ends and those that don't, and price the job accordingly.

As to whether your car has an alignable rear end, you'll need to refer to a shop manual to find out.

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In many cases the issue is with an out of balance tire, you can have them all balanced fairly cheaply and a rotation is probably in order, I believe it's all in the same price, after that the alignment could be the cause, if the wheels are not straight forward they will shake, and newer cars need 4 wheel alignment, after that it could be your engine timing or a bad engine support.,

It could be your bushings.

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the weight of the car is displayed on a sticker on the driver door or in the center pilar at the bottom. its between 5,300 and 5,600 pounds

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If it is a registered corporation (or other agency) you may find the current corporate filings in your department of state office (or department of business licensing), or in the state where they are incorporated.

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how do you change out the left back door window in a 1989 Toyota corolla?

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Answer 1 Simply put, a relay of any kind is a remote switch controlled by another switch. Relays are usually used to control remote electrical devices which use heavy current [measured in Ampheres, or Amps]. A common example would be auxillary light systems added to a vehicle. The power supply wire would need to be very large to carry the needed current, and would have to be routed from the battery, into the passenger compartment to the instrument panel where a very heavy switch would be required. Instead, good practice is to route the heavy conductor[s] from the battery directly to the lights with a relay installed in between. Then a lighter switch would be installed in the instrument panel with wires from it to the relay. The lighter instrument panel switch and wires control the relay, which in turn controls the heavy current to the lights. This is only one example of the use of a relay. Some others are for powering high current devices such as power seats, power windows, auxilliary devices such as amplifiers, and other sound equipment. Also. to be sure that some circuits are turned off when the key is turned off, a relay will be installed between the "hot" when key is on terminal of the ignition switch to several smaller devices. Therefore, when the key is on, the devices will be "powered up," and when the key is off, they also will be powered down.j3h

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Under glove box, facing up. 4 brass screws hold it in and has a wire connector plugged in the side.