you can't. simple as that. but if i'm taking you up right and you are genuinely having problems with the immobiliser then i'd reccommend you use a second and last higher digit to sort the problem out for good. just say your code is 3545 don't enter it, but instead enter 3646 and you should here a click from the drivers side engine. thats it. it worked for me and i never had a problem since. by the way if you don't know the original keycode then you won't be able to up the second and last digit accordingly so will not work. hope this helps.
The egr has nothing to do with idling high, the egr valve is not used at all at no load. and if there was something wrong with the egr valve it would cause the idle to be very low. check your EGR valve for leaks on your exhaust manifol. If you have a factory service manual, they have trouble shooting on almost everything about your car. Check your Air filter or Fuel filter. I replace my air filter once a year, Maybe replace your Fuel filter after 30,000 miles. A high idle is typical of a vacuum leak, I don't know where the above answer has any relation to this. if you have a carb, it may not be adjusted correctly.. from: jay c.-- In my own humble opinion, irratic idle is typical of a vacum leak. I had the same problem with my 8 year old sedan, Had the idle air control valve checked, Air Flow Valve, and throttle serviced... all did not solve the fluctuating idle. My mechanic suggested to replace the gaskets (rubber seal) of the valve cover and the manifold, my car's idling perfectly, it's smoother and sounds much better. My mechanic told me that the previous repair used an inferior gaskets and compensated it by using silicon sealants... the silicon sealants eventually wore-off leaving gaps, causing leaks.
Its had many benefit for getting finance from a car dealer. Dealership loans are pretty common. In the past, a dealership car loan was one of the only ways to finance a new car. Now times have certainly got changed. One thing is absolutely certain, a dealership loan is convenient. While you sit there and fill out the papers for the car of your dreams that you are about to purchase, you may as well just fill out papers for a loan to finance that very car. Yes, dealership loans really are quite simple, however, sometimes they are not in your best interest. Mainly you get a vast choice to purchase any vehicle though them.
Yes you should get financing through a car dealer as they can provide you loan at a low interest rates. You will get a higher interest if you finance through a bank. So it would be advisable to finance through a dealer.AnswerAuto financing obtained by the dealer, even if the dealer contacts lenders on your behalf, may not be the best deal you can get. Contact lenders directly. Compare the auto financing they offer you with the financing the dealer offers you. Because offers vary, shop around for the best deal, comparing the annual percentage rate (APR) and the length of the auto loan.
When negotiating auto financing, be wary of focusing only on the monthly payment. The total amount you will pay depends on the price of the car you negotiate, the APR, and the length of the loan.
Sometimes, dealers offer very low auto financing rates for specific cars or models, but may not be willing to negotiate on the price of these cars. To qualify for the special auto financing rates, you may be required to make a large down payment. With these conditions, you may find that it's sometimes more affordable to pay higher financing charges on a car that is lower in price or to buy a car that requires a smaller down payment.
Before you sign a contract to purchase or finance the car, consider the terms of the financing and evaluate whether it is affordable. Before you drive off the lot, be sure to have a copy of the contract that both you and the dealer have signed and be sure that all blanks are filled in.
Some dealers and lenders may ask you to buy credit insurance to pay off your loan if you should die or become disabled. Before you buy credit insurance, consider the cost, and whether it's worthwhile. Check your existing policies to avoid duplicating benefits. Credit insurance is not required by federal law. If your dealer requires you to buy credit insurance for auto financing, it must be included in the cost of credit. That is, it must be reflected in the APR. Your state Attorney General also may have requirements about credit insurance.AnswerOne thing most people don't know about dealers is that they can actually add their own points to a car loan. Money made from these points are then kicked back to the car dealer. Usually this is only two to three points but that adds up to a few thousand dollars depending on the size of the loan. This is a multi-billion dollar scam industry wide and they never have to tell you they are doing it as long as the total interest rate percentage is displayed on the lending form.
One way to know that the dealer is trying to add points is when they tell you that you cannot get a lower interest loan because there is something bad on your credit report. It may be fictious or outdated or a flat out lie. The point is to get to you to agree to a higher interest loan. This happened to my dad when the dealer used a bankruptcy that was 12 years old to raise his interest rate.
In short the dealer often makes more from adding points than from the actual markup of the car. With this kind of money they pull out all the stops to get you to agree to a higher loan and it is very hard to force them not too.
Never, ever get a loan through a dealership
Why can't a dealership mark up the rate and make a profit? Are we not allowed in this great country of ours to operate a business and make a profit? With most customers only willing to pay invoice or cost on a vehicle, where else can we make a profit. Anyway most states put a cap on the amount of rate a dealership can make usually 2 to 2 1/2 percent. If a consumer would pay the Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price or MSRP then maybe we wouldn't have to find alternate means of generating a profit that supports our business and employees. People that have had a bad car buying experience at a dealership generally have brought it on themselves because of their lack of knowledge and understanding. Lets reverse it and put it in your shoes, if you invested $25,000 of your own money into something with the sole purpose of reselling it at a profit, how much would you expect to make? Is a $500 profit a good return on your investment? is $1,000?? $2,000?? "Educate before you negotiate" and your car buying experience will be a whole lot easier and headache free.
What you are hearing is the clutch on the air conditioning pump engaging... the alternator doesn't make any noise unless the bearings are going bad and then a grinding noise will be heard.
A flashing check engine light means that an engine cylinder misfire has been
detected . You can drive it in for repair , just avoid any rapid acceleration
or deceleration because you can damage the catalytic converter
Frozen as in ICE? Wait.,,, FYI, Gas does not freeze, if frozen, there is water present. Frozen as in stuck? Replace it.
First you buy a good-quality 3rd brake light kit appropriate for the mounting angle on your particular car -- see the links below for examples. If your car's left and right brake lights are separate from the left and right rear turn signals (different bulbs for the brake lights and turn signals), then you just follow the instructions with the kit. If your car has combination brake/turn lights (the same red light burns steadily for brake light or flashes for turn signal) then you must run a new wire from the brake light switch to the rear of the car to feed the new 3rd brake light -- cars with combination brake/turn lights route power from the brake light switch through the turn signal switch and then from there to the back of the car; if you try to get away without running the new wire, the 3rd brake light won't work properly and you'll backfeed other lighting circuits with random results.
Sounds like the alternater is a reasonable suspect to me. Second guess would be the Ghost of Chrysler Past!AnswerFirst I would start a fresh, new post. Second, what motor and model do yuou have. I would check the ground or negative cable for a loose connection first. AnswerI was recently having similar problems. lights diming & brightning wipers slow alternator kept blowing up. finally transplanted the "brain"... got a new ECM did it my self fairly simple but not cheap. i believe you can get it tested. but i would sugest you do the work your self. i saved 1300.00 that way found the part @ the wreckers 4 cheap! but make sure there is a warenty of sorts. just in case. Answersounds like the alternator to me AnswerI HAD THAT TO HAPPEN TO ME ONE TIME ON A PONTIAC IT TURNED OUT THE BATTERY WAS SHORTED INSIDE OF IT SO YOU MAY WANT TO HAVE THE BATTERY CHECKED AnswerGrounds, grounds, grounds. Check to be sure all grounds are clean and serviceable. AnswerIt could be about a thousand things. Bring your alternator in somewhere and get it checked. If it is bad change it. If it's good bring the battery in and have it load tested. If it is good, then start looking at grounds. If all your grounds are good and clean then start looking at reseting your ECM. Go into the dealership and start asking questions. Most mechanics are good guys they will try to help you out. It doesn't hurt to bring in a coffee for the guy before you ask. Good luck.
to move a battery voltage wildly take a lot of current which the car Even if running cannot supply. Basically the battery is not very well connected to the source or a depleted battery
Reasons for the shaking could be:
If the temperature has been below freezing, there could be TIRE STOP LEAK , that has gone unnoticed, and now caused a major imbalance of a tire .
Bent rim, tie rod loose, sticking brake calipers. My first guess is always tire balance, but if not that -- those would be my next guesses.
Get your wheel struts checked and replaced if necessary...my car did that and both my front struts were warn out
The wheel bearings may also be going bad in the front end. Bad wheel bearings will cause vibration in the engine compartment, leading to a rougher ride, and usually a loud rubbing noise. Unrepaired, bad bearings will eventually cause your wheel to separate from the axle. If this should happen at high speed... the axle will dig down into the concrete and send the car airborne.
There are few issues related to such a problem. A very common problem is faulty tires or incorrect wheel balance of the front tires. Check for a bulge or a wear on the tires. If all is ok..get a mechanic to check your wheel bearings. Check for a broken strut assembly or shock absorber. Check for tire rod bushings and the balance rod. Check complete front suspension.
IF SHAKING IS SEMI-VIOLENT OR ENOUGH TO CAUSE YOU TO SLOW DOWN TO LOWER SPEEDS TO REGAIN STABILITY--> MAYBE DROP PIT ARM, STEERING STABILIZER OR TRACK BAR.
The rotors on larger vehicles that are composite become out of balance and need replacing or cutting.
rattle and shake at speed is 99% of the time attributed to needing all wheels balanced. other problems listed above will happen at all speeds
I was expereincing shakes and rattle at 80-100 km/h speed, however, problem brewed and it mild vibration starts even at around 40km/h. Problem traced was bad inner axel. After changing the axel it feels like car is new born.
If it snowed recently, and the problem did not exist before the snowstorm, there may be frozen snow/ice stuck to one or more wheels, causing imbalance. Take the care to a self-serve car wash and spray the wheels from underneath the car and in the wheel wells.
I am having the same problem and I came to the conclusion that the U Joints are going bad.
It is possible that something is simply loose and the speed combined with air downforce is making it rattle against the metal. For example, in my 1988 z24 the locks used to rattle against the metal of the door at presicely 57mph.
FOR THOSE WITH 2007-2009 PONTIAC G6 vehicles.
I came to Wiki because my car was shaking between 55-60MPH. I came here to look for potential problems...but my car is a 2007 and fairly new and I had no idea why in the world it would be doing that. Checked air pressure - good to go. Just had new high performance tires put on in June (so they were mounted, balanced, etc). However, with the high performance lower tires...if you live in a state where it snows (I live in MN), the rims and wheel wells for those cars and those tires--pack snow really hard. We spent $7.00 at a car wash doing a high pressure hot water car wash to clean out the wheel wells -guess what? NO ISSUES AT ALL-went to 75MPH no problem-not even a HINT of a shake. So, I had cancelled my appt at the dealership. IF you have this type of car, or ones with high performance tires---do what I did and it may alleviate the problem. Might work for other vehicles-but I can only speak for mine.
I have 01 Civic,. I am changing Shocks & Struts,. mechanic said that cause the problem.
I have a 97 Chrysler Sebring and the recommendation to take the car to the car wash worked out great for me. After a heavy snowfall in Chicago I shoveled out my car out of snow and it was vibrating horribly between 50-65mph. I followed the advise and to it to a car-wash with hot water and asked them to specifically ensure that my wheel wells are properly de-iced. The car was a blaze after that. So if you live in a cold place, try this before you try anything else.
Looks like you have a leaky spark tube camshaft flywheel that's gunna ruin your piston lugnut better buy a new head gasket driveshaft
Your tires could be bad.
Bill Nye has never been arrested, although he did just file for protection from his wife for trying to destroy his garden.
I believe that is about ( 21 U.S. gallons ) I was looking at the Owner Guide
online and it shows 22.5 just like the 2002 redesign
It happened to my Mazda/98, After i changed the engine mount, No more shaking.
I had bad shaking when idling in park or at a stop light. I replaced the timing belt and got the cams retimed. After that it was good.
Loose or corroded battery cables?
Blown fusable link?
Check to see if your getting fuel at the Multi Point Injection Intake disconnect the Fuel line and then turn the ignition on and see if your getting fuel coming out of that line. If not then you have a fuel pump problem. I discovered with my 92 Dodge Colt that after it sat at my mechanics place for seven months and I finally got it back cause he never fixed it, the fuel pump doesnt work now and the tank got drained empty so I suspect the pump got corroded or rusty because of the tank being empty. You have to see if it is getting fire and fuel and has compression. The gas is porbably bad and neeeds replaced.
there is no timing belt it has a timing chain
Your wheels could be out of alignment; however, it is probably your wheels are out of balance. I would have this checked and repaired, if it is not fixed this will cause your tires too wear faster.
Worn Parts like a radius arm bushing , wheel bearings , or even upper or lower ball joints can cause a shaking in your front end.
If it is out of specification the rear, yes. If it is in specification, no. Makes sense, doesn't it!
Some cars have adjustable alignment angles in the rear, and do indeed call for a four-wheel alignment. On many cars, there are no rear adjustments, but the front wheels should be aligned with respect to the rear, what is properly called a thrust-angle alignment. Unfortunately, many shops are not careful with their terminology and use the term "four-wheel alignment" when they really mean "thrust-angle alignment." Even so, they usually correctly distinguish between cars that have alignable rear ends and those that don't, and price the job accordingly.
As to whether your car has an alignable rear end, you'll need to refer to a shop manual to find out.
In many cases the issue is with an out of balance tire, you can have them all balanced fairly cheaply and a rotation is probably in order, I believe it's all in the same price, after that the alignment could be the cause, if the wheels are not straight forward they will shake, and newer cars need 4 wheel alignment, after that it could be your engine timing or a bad engine support.,
It could be your bushings.
the weight of the car is displayed on a sticker on the driver door or in the center pilar at the bottom. its between 5,300 and 5,600 pounds
If it is a registered corporation (or other agency) you may find the current corporate filings in your department of state office (or department of business licensing), or in the state where they are incorporated.
how do you change out the left back door window in a 1989 Toyota corolla?
Answer 1 Simply put, a relay of any kind is a remote switch controlled by another switch. Relays are usually used to control remote electrical devices which use heavy current [measured in Ampheres, or Amps]. A common example would be auxillary light systems added to a vehicle. The power supply wire would need to be very large to carry the needed current, and would have to be routed from the battery, into the passenger compartment to the instrument panel where a very heavy switch would be required. Instead, good practice is to route the heavy conductor[s] from the battery directly to the lights with a relay installed in between. Then a lighter switch would be installed in the instrument panel with wires from it to the relay. The lighter instrument panel switch and wires control the relay, which in turn controls the heavy current to the lights. This is only one example of the use of a relay. Some others are for powering high current devices such as power seats, power windows, auxilliary devices such as amplifiers, and other sound equipment. Also. to be sure that some circuits are turned off when the key is turned off, a relay will be installed between the "hot" when key is on terminal of the ignition switch to several smaller devices. Therefore, when the key is on, the devices will be "powered up," and when the key is off, they also will be powered down.j3h
Under glove box, facing up. 4 brass screws hold it in and has a wire connector plugged in the side.
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