Open bonnet its on righthand side of block
64 n/m + 90 degrees + 90 degrees
I drove one about 600k. They do not usually go bad. Once the door panel is removed, there is about 4 bolts holding an "x" type assembly(heavy metal old style regulator used by many manufacturers, including GM). Motor itself can fail, and is attached by a couple of screws, and is in a black plastic enclosure(replace the whole plastic assembly). If you live in the snow belt, and you try to lower the window when it is still stuck to the rubber moulding, it will strip out a few teeth, and will not go all the way up. Usually about an inch still open. One cure for this is to remove the "x" assembly, and take it to a weld shop. They can braze you a couple of spot drops in place of missing teeth. Basically a couple of drops of weld. You can then file them down to look like the rest of the teeth on the assembly. Grease all the teeth real well, and you will be in good shape for many years. More than likely, your problem is the latter.
The speaker size is 5 and 1/4". Above the map pocket, you will see two squarish panels, pop these out and remove the screws. By the door handle, there is also another screw, remove this. Carefully, put a flat head screwdriver between the door panel and the frame and pull away, the rest is held by plastic clips. By the way, there is a top part and a lower part of this. You really need to remove only the lower part. The top, just pop it open, and inside, you will see one more screw that secures the lower panel, near the center. Remove this also, and the whole lower section should be loose. Don't forget to disconnect your power windows connection, this is a simple un snap with the screw also. When you put your new speakers in , put some insulation around it too, it helps a lot in making the sounds more audible - any mat will help.
Hey David==It differes greatly between different areas of the country. Call a couple of local shops and get estimates. goodluckJoe My 1995 Camry blew a head gasket recently. I asked a Toyota dealer who quoted me $800. A couple of local shops told me $700. This does not include an extra $100 or so if the head is warped and needs to be resurfaced. Hope this helped.
See http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_the_starter . In the service panel, under the drivers seat is where you start. You will find three main starter bolts, and a couple of smaller ones on a small plate on top and is used as a top brace, steadying the starter from the top. The main bolts you need to get to from underneath. If you are getting the intermittent clicks, there is some good news. I did the first one at 194k, and later found out you can just replace the copper "L" contacts inside the starter. Toyota dealers sell a rebuild kit for less than $15.00. It only includes the bigger of the two contacts (positive terminal), but that is generally all you will need. You will find the contacts by taking off the end, and removing two long bolts, and opposite the bell shaped end. The hardest thing is getting the starter out. The rest is easy.
On my 1991 AWD, the two contacts were the same size (smaller). Only one was worn. The starter is easier to identify from underneath. The lower (17mm) bolt also holds a shaft bearing on the AWD. There are 3 14mm upper bolts; the middle one is shorter and does not need to be removed.
Toyota Owner's Manual and Automotive Repair Manual say Previa with 2TZ-FE (non-supercharged, which is the case of 1990 Previa) cooling system total capacity is 13 U.S. qt.
REMOVE FUSE COVER ASHTRAY AND LITER AND THEN REMOVE TWO SCREWS ONE THE TOP OF THE PANEL HOUSEING AND TWO SCREWS ON THE UNDERNEATH INSIDE IF THE ASH TRAY AND IF INSPECTED FROM UNDERNEATH PRESS BACK THE TABS AND STEREO IS OUT
to add to previous answer after removing the top fuse panel and removing screws you have to remove the cup holder and there should be a couple of extra screws. the cup holder is a pain to remove but with a little persistence it can be done.
Pop off fuse cover. Remove two outer screws: these are the top two of four screws holding the top of the wrapping middle front fascia on, to which the radio assembly is attached. Next remove the little drawer, cigarrette lighter, and ashtray. Next, some models have a cupholder and others have simply a fascia where the cupholder *should* be. The fascia can be removed by pulling straight outwards with some force (careful not to damage your interior surfaces). Then remove the two screws on either side of the cupholder/fascia. After that is removed you finally have access to the two lower screws holding the bottom of the wrapping middle front fascia on (these are just behind and above the screws for the cupholder/fascia). Once these are loose and the two plastic clips nearby are squished inwards the whole wrap-around fascia + radio assembly can be removed together. Careful on the edges as the channels for the vents come with this part & these vehicles are now old enough that the foam/glue surrounding these vents can easily tear/break off.
Found this site http://tarago.blogspot.com/ that contains lots of pictures and a step by step guide. Really helpful for me.
spark plug torque for a Toyota 2.4 is 95 inch/lbs
The Alternator is held by "two bolts" located at the top(12mm) and bottom (14mm). Remember to disconnect positive side of battery. First loosen 10mm nut that holds positive cable at back top of the alternator, then unplug wire harness on back. Second remove the 12mm bolt at top form the back. Third remove 14mm bolt at bottom form front. When you remove these bolts you should be able to loosen and pry out with a flat screw drive.
I have owned my 1991 previa since new. Absolutely the best vehicle I have ever owned. Mine is a AWD. I now have 392000 plus kms and have not had one problem or had to replace any power train parts so far. Normal wear and tear items, yes of course. This vehicle has never left me stranded and I still drive it today. I hope to get twice the mileage that I have now. I have owned my 1991 previa since new. Absolutely the best vehicle I have ever owned. Mine is a AWD. I now have 392000 plus kms and have not had one problem or had to replace any power train parts so far. Normal wear and tear items, yes of course. This vehicle has never left me stranded and I still drive it today. I hope to get twice the mileage that I have now.
its on the front of engine just above aux.shaft easy to get to but you have to raise the vehicle saftly and get under it to see it
You access the oil pan from under the vehicle not under the seat. You only have to lift the seat to add oil or tranny fluid.... if you do need to lift the seat to add oil or trans fluid, first remove any obstructions from behind the seat, lift the seatback lever to allow the seatbact into the full forward position, then in the left front lower corner (left meaning while you're sitting in the seat) there is a yellow lever. pull up on the lever and the seat will tilt backwards on the rear hinges. the access panel is opened by twisting the now exposed knob counterclockwise and lifting out the panel.
The ToyotaVanPeople link in the related links section should answer this question.
It is under the front hood, at the bottom of the cabin air intake plenum. You can't see it without removing a cover at the bottom of the intake, air management plenum. To replace it, you have to remove the the fresh air intake, the power steering resevoir, the antifreeze resevior,the recirculating air intake cable. It is necessatuy to also unbolt the air management housing from the firewall. The blower motor is upside down coming in from the bottom under the cover that was mentioned earlier. The speed resistor block is also under that cover. The power wires run through the intake feeding in from behind the fuse compartment in the top center dash compartment in the cabin. It is difficult yo disconnect the wires at the junctyion but it can be done. Reconection is easier. It took me a three hours to replace the speed resistor block which is located in the same area as the blower. A $30 part. I had a dealership replace the blower motor a year ealier for $438. (the motor cost $125) My parents owned the Previa at that time. I inherited it and found that the blower only worked on extreme low and extreme high speeds. That's when I went in myself to swap the resistor. I still don't know why the dealership didn't do it when they swapped out the blower.
On the 95 model previa/estima the turn signal relay is loacted just under the drivers side dash arae.
Located on the right hand side of the footwell
On my Previa 1996 UK spec i found the flasher unit at the back of the speedo.you need to remove the radio housing then you will need to remove two screws which hold the clock outer bezel,remove carefully.there are four screws holding the clock. When you have removed the clock wala you will see it in front of you. it took me a week to find it. they don't tell you where it is in the workshop manual.
Good luck Ivor (imccann)
I would guess that the transfer case would try to transfer all the power to the disconnected front wheel. bad guess from the last guy.... this may be allright for awhile because the viscous coupler in the transfer case would lock and transfer the power to the rear driveshaft. however the drive would slip for a few moments before engaging and constant misuse like this will ruin the coupler. (i think they run about 800.00). so to answer your question ......no, there will be damage. All the above need to note that if the front drive shaft is removed than the transfer case would leak its oil.
check the cruise motor to is just above the peddle
A rusty/tight throttle body. It should be by the oil dipstick + oil fill cap.
Hi Om the top corner of the light is a small bracket with a screw. Undo the screw. Put some thing thin between the back edge of the light and the body panel andslowly lever it forward. The light will now come out and the bulb can be accessed
pop-out the 4 small square covers(2 in front, 2 in rear) from the base of chair. Bolts will then be exposed for removal. The base comes in two parts so make note which side is which.
The jack is under the passenger seat. Under the car, just behind the front wheel and just in front of the back wheel are locations that are convex shaped with a circular "bump out". You put the "cup" of the jack around that bump out and then use the jack handle to operate the jack and lift the car. Besure to do this only on a level surface and don't crawl under the car without a secondary safety support incase the jack fails.
Headlights have to be adjusted by a licensed facility because it is a state regulated thing. Check in the phone book for professionals that are licensed to do so.
Driver side 1/2 way back under the along the edge.
Owner's manual. Don't have one, get one.
If its shorting or open, then YES
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