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Listed new at some places for a little over $38US. Used is less. I have one to go with my real one. Model is nice, figure worth about $15-$20.

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There are 2 bulbs behind the display, purchase from Jaguar at around £5. Although the display is green the bulb is blue! To fit takes around 45 minutes. Take off gear selector surround and unscrew the housing, remove wood trim around gear selector up to heater, unscrew and take out radio then heater controls. Remove electrical multi clip, take off back of heater control (4 screws) replace blown bulb by turning bulb housing with a small screw driver. Refit is the opposite.

Jaguar wanted to charge £120, it is an easy job for the DIYer

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This is actually a fairly straight-forward and easy job. I completed it in my garage in about 15 minutes.

0. Make sure engine is COOL. otherwise, you WILL burn yourself.

1. Take a picture or diagram the path of your existing serpentine belt. This is critical to getting the new belt on. While it will only "fit" 1 way, it is much easier knowing how to "snake" the belt around, in-between and under the water pump, alternator, a/c compressor, tensioner, etc...

2. the tensioner is the key. you will need the biggest ratchet (3/4") that you have and it is even easier with a "breaker" bar (long bar that increases your torque, with socket head on end).

3. The belt tensioner is (using a clock face) about 2:00 - 3:00 oclock from the main crankshaft pully (if you were standing in front of the car, looking through the radiator, at the front of the engine). It has a 15mm or 17mm nut on it's center. If you put a socket to it, the tensioner will move by applying pressure in the counter-clockwise direction. This is compress the spring insid the tensioner, it will move in and provide slack for the belt.

4. SO, snake the new belt into position except for going around the tensioner.

5. (This is a little tricky) With the belt "almost" in place, place the socket inside the belt and onto the tensioner nut/bolt, so that when you compress the tensioner, the belt will be able to slip onto the tensioner pully. Apply the counter-clockwise pressure to the tensioner, creating enough roon to slip the belt into place and in the correct grooves. Release the tensioner and you are done!

I was able to replace my belt without removing ANYTHING from the front of the engine. If you must have the room you can remove the electric fan shroud by unbolting the two top bolts behind the radiator and disconnecting the two electrical feeds (on to each fan motor). The shrould will pivot back and lift out. It is easy, but not necessary to remove this item.

Good luck!

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Pressing valet mode locks the glovebox and trunk so that only your own 'proper' key can open them. The valet key cannot open those; it can only operate the engine and the doorlocks.

Actually, you have to manually lock the glove box, but other than that the answer is correct. Just make sure you give the valet the green key, not the black key.

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When the check engine light is activated the resricted performace message which is like a "limp home mode" to work with the fault the vehicle will restrict timing, trans operation and throttle body response

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put key in door like your unlocking it

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Your trans is either low on fluid,(difficult to check when not a tech) or trans failure. if you check the fluid and it is dark and smells bad and/or metal flakes are in the fluid..... stick a fork in it.

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The Battery in in the Trunk (Boot) mounted next to the spare tire. It is rather large so you may need assistance in removing it.

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remove the rear a/c duct vanes and electricals behind them are 2 torx 30 screws-remove them remove gearshifter knob gently prise up on the gear surround and lift up and remove there are 2 torx 30 screws under gear surround-remove them gently lift the rear of the center console and wiggle it back and forth, then give it a slight jerk rearwards, it is only held in with spring clips. lay a soft towel on the gear area so as not to scratch the radio facia. the radio and climate control system are all together in one pod. remove the 4 torx 30 screws holding the pod in place. pull the pod forward and disconnect the wiring connectors. installation is the reverse of the above procedure.

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The purpose of the "Valet Key" is to allow a parking attendant or any other person to operate the car, but not be able to access the trunk where presumably you would store your valuables. The tip of the Valet key is different from the Master Key. It is part of the security systems design. You can use the Valet key to have another master key cut. But as you are probably aware, most locksmiths lack the special machine or key blanks to help you. Jag dealers will charge you a fortune, check the internet I had mine cut by a shop in Australia and had them delivered in the US in 3 days for under $35

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Nexxia offers fitment kits for most Jaguars. I am not affiliated with them in any way. http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_fitting_kits/jaguar.htm

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Many cars have a switch connected to the boot lock to alert the driver if the boot (= "Trunk", to our American friends :) ) isn't closed properly. Chances are, esp with an older car that you have either a) a faulty switch, or b) another fault somewhere else in the electrical connection If you like me have a 1997-2003 X308 model at least, there is a wire from the switch (and the interior boot-lights) running underneath the right boot-lid hinge. OVer the years this wire can have been damaged or flexed too often; have a look; it is quite feasible to repair this yourself it you have DIY skills. Best to add a new piece of wire and allow for movement, but cable-tie is a bit out of the way. If you're worried you can still self diagnose and get a car electrician to fix it in minutes.

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Use the black key that you have to open the truck, it overrides the Valet Mode. The key goes in a hole that is between the X and the K on the enblem on the rear of the car.

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The Navigation system functions from a DVD control moduleinside the trunk connected using a fiber-optic data connector.your only option is to have your local dealer install a factory unityou might also check with Alpine(they make then for jag) otherwiseyou will need a complete aftermaket system.

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Move the seat where you want.

Touch "memory" button on armrest.

Touch 1, 2 or 3 button; it beeps when programmed.

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under vechile near rear of engine going in from engine side toward transmission there is a 2 wire sensor with 1 bolt holding it in.

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You should be able to do it yourself. When you obtain the new ornament you will be able to check your wrench size/type. There may be some hood insulation to move temporarily and generally one fastener but that is about it.

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I know this works for the X type but you might as well try it and see if it works for you! Here are the instructions: Hold headlight flasher back. Turn ignition key to position 1. Flash headlights 4 times. Alarm will enter programming mode. This will be confirmed by "beeps" from the alarm and flashing led on gearshift. Program each transmitter (up to 5) by pressing the lock or unlock button on each transmitter once. The alarm will "honk" when you press the transmitter button. The alarm must honk 5 times to complete the programming. Therefore, if you are only programming one transmitter you should operate the transmitter 5 times. If you are programming two transmitters you will operate one transmitter twice, and three times on the other.

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Engine fail safe appears when there is a hard fault code, usually tranmission problems. the computer reduces engine power to have the least amount of strain on the vehicle until you can get to the shop.

OR

2000 Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6

Unplug two sensors attached to where the hose going to where air filter is, unbolt 4x long screws around the throttle (keep an eye on the gasket between the engine and the throttle body).

There's two small hoses attached to the throttle, if you can't remove them off (really tight as) no need to worry because you can start spraying the Throttle Cleaner (leave it for a while) to the throttle, I suggest you get a box of tissue, before you start wiping the throttle (clothes not good because it will smudge the oil all over the inside throttle), spray a little to the tissue before wiping it, keep doing it until you see the inner body is light silver color.

Then you can start cleaning the butterfly inside with tissue sprayed with spray cleaner, use your thumb to hold the butterfly piece (not with any sharp tool) while your other hand/fingers cleaning it.

Before you put it all back, it's not a bad idea if you start cleaning the air filter box where your air filter seating (or replace the if it's old air filter), spray with an Electronic Spray Cleaner each and every sensors and the connectors you unplug.

I wish I could have video what I did and post it here or on youtube.

I get this idea from jagforum, following a trends in the discussions. I thought I share it with others, after doing this procedures to my Jag, I will update this article if there's improvement or the warning will go away. . . . .

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7.0 liters

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Depending on the year it is either £75 or £150 from a main dealer (as of 2009), plus a further hour of labour to pair it to the car (otherwise it's no good).

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The hard part and the part that takes the longest is just getting the 2 lines in the middle of tank disconnected. Access is under the car just above where the trans-axle on a normal car would be. You will need long small hands an arms to reach up and around to use a standard fuel line disconnector. Once the lines are off its pretty easy-just undo the straps, disconnect the big electrical connector to the right of middle,disconnect 2 tubes and pull it out. There are 3 tubes ontop of the ring that have to be pulled loose to pull the pump out after you knock loose the twist ring. Pull the vent out 1st(the 1 by itself) once its off you can pull the pump assembly out as a unit an slip the other 2 lines off at the same time. Replacing it once you have the tank out is just the removal of 1 screw that holds the pump down, disconnect the power connector and loosen the clamp on the output line and its out

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what does transmission fault error on a 2006 jagur s-type

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There is NO dipstick for the transmission. I've been trying to find out how to check the fluid level due to a small leak. So far, I've heard the oil has to be at a certain temp, but no one will say what that is; It has to go in one of two Allen headed plugs, probably the higher one on the tail end of tranny since oil poured out of the lower one on the side. Then I've heard you have to have a computer hooked up to determine the correct fluid level while everything is at the correct temp. When I tried to put some of the $62 a liter fluid in the plug on the tail end, it ran out as fast as I put it in, indicating that there may be a check valve which would make me you might have to put fluid in under pressure and that the fluid level may actually be above the plug! I'm still trying to find out answers to my questions, but the answer to your question is there is NO dipstick!