an Audi q7 will cost about £3oo,4oo because it is quite expensive, it is also quite good
The four rings stand for the amalgamation of four Automobile manufacturers, founded in 1932 and established in 1936 in Saxony, during the Great Depression. The company has evolved into present day as a subsidiary of the Volkswagen Group.
i guess audis...
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc37.shtml It lives under the cover at the rear RHS of the engine bay tucked under the windscreen. Remove the 8 mm setscrew holding the outer cover in place and you will see it. ;there are three plastic screws hold the lower windscreen trim turn them 1/4 turn ONLY anti clockwise otherwise they will break.Gently prise downwards the clip which holds the two halfs of the windscreen trim in place and remove it. There are two clips hold the remaining half of the pollen filter cover in place and it comes off forwards. Dont be too rrough with any off this or you will have a lot of burst bits of plastic and a bit repair bill. Also start with he wipers parked half up the screen .Good luck !
Push and hold the right button.
Switch on the ignition. Release the right button. Pull on the left button. Push the right button. Pull the left button.
(------ is now displayed)
It is reset.
The company which produced the first Audi automobile, Horch Automobil-Werke GmbH,
was founded in 1909 in Zwickau, Germany. The first Audi was built in 1910. That same year, the company had to change its name to Audi Automobil-Werke GmbH, due to a trademark dispute with a previous company.
The top speed of Audi A1 is 200 kph.
Found the specs of Audi A1 on definedriving.com
These should be official figures from Audi.
Turn on radio - the word SAFE will appear in the display. Press th P.SCAN and RBDS buttons simultaneously and hold them down until "1000" lights up in the display.Release buttons.Do not, under no circumtances, continue holding them down or press them once again. This will cause the radio to consider the number 1000 to be the input code.Use station buttons 1,2,3,and 4 to enter the code number on your Radio Card. Use the button 1 to enter the first number 2 for the second number 3 for the third number and 4 for the last number.Once you have entered the code and it shows on the display,press the P.SCAN and RBDS buttons down again simultaneously and hold them down until the word SAFE appears in the display.Release buttons. Soon afterwards a frequency will be displayed.
For a 1998 Audi Quattro with a Delta radio, the button combination is DX and FM1/2.
Here are step by step instructions with photos:
Open tailgate. On level with rear lamp cluster in the recess for the tailgate is a rubber block. Remove block and insert Phillips screwdriver. Undo screw but take care it does not fall into bottom of interior. If that happens either you will have lot more body work to undo to access the missing screw or buy another screw. With the screw loose then tap the rear light cluster with the heel of your hand from the inside towards outsite(the lamp has two plastic nipples that insert into the lateral side of the car). With luck it should come loose and you can then access the bulbs. Reverse proceedure to reassemble.
Now how do you change a headlamp bulb?
My 02 2.5tdi tiptronic gearbox is failing with 80k on the clock. Pathetic!!
I own an (N reg) Audi A4 1.8T with 160000 miles on the clock and still going strong. The secret is regular oil changes! I change mine about every 5000 miles or when the oil gets really black. It only costs �30-�40 depending on the oil and oil filter you use. I think the above statement is right...if the oil and filter is changed regularly especially if youre doing alot of miles a month then there is no reason you cant get the car the equivilent of driving to the moon!! I have an "s" reg 1998 A4 with 182,000 miles on the clock and it still runs as clean and quiet as ever!! 5w 30 oil and filter from Halfords (UK) is about £27.00
Get a manual on your car from AUTOREPAIRBOOKS.COM It will help on the next repair.
It's easy Dissconnect battery.Dissconnect wires from back.Dissconnect air pipe the little nuts(8mm)may need replacing. lossen off the top bolts a tad these act as the hinge. Remove the adjustment plate thing note the coged bolt this lets you get tension into the belt without using a lever as on other cars. Remove the top bolts and it drops free. next clamp the cooling fins in a vice(they may bend a little) so as to remove the pully wheel.On new alternator fit pully and fan,ensure fins are straight tap with hammmer if not, then fit. Best use new belt and lightly grease all bolts
I THINK, BUT, NOT ABSOLUTELY SURE, THERE SHOULD BE FOUR HOLES ON THE FACE OF THE RADIO ABOUT THE DIAMETER OF A FINISHING NAIL, ONE IN EACH CORNER. IF THIS IS ON YOURS THEN YOU ARE IN BUSSINESS. SLIDE A NAIL (APPROX.3 IN. LONG) IN EACH HOLE UNTIL IT STOP. USE BOTH HANDS TO GRAB NAILS, SQUEEZE TWO NAILS ON THE LEFT TOGETHER SLIGHTLY AND DO THE SAME ON THE RIGHT SIMOTANIOUSLY AND PULL RADIO FROM THE DASH. THE NAILS ARE USED FOR RELEASE PINS AND HANDLES. I HOPE THIS WORK FOR YOU, IT DOES ON OLDER MODELS. GOOD LUCK.
The answer is correct, however the 1.8t engine does not exist in the A6.
the fuse panel cover is located just where the driver's door meets the dashboard. you would see a small groove. take off the cover using this groove.
Hi,I just did mine this afternoon and I have a 1993 Audi 90 so it should be similar.
There are 3 small screws on the door. one close to the mirror, the other on the top right of the door and the 3rd in the handle that is part of the arm rest.
1) Remove the 2 top screws and then the one in the door handle.
2) Remove the bottom part of the door handle and there will be 2 torx screws.
3) Remove the 2 torx screws.
4) Pull on the silver door opener (as you would to get out of your car) and remove the small screw that is in there.
5) Now you can lift the entire inner door panel above the lock switch.
Once you remove the door panel, you can play around but you'll have to be carefull with the wires and the locking wire.
If you have to get into the door locking mechanism, you'll have to undo several bolts in the main body panel and undo bigger size bolts that come by pairs in the inner part of the door and the outer part. Make sure you know where the bolts where by looking at the marks on the door frame. These bolts that hold the window will need to be fitted exactly at the same place or else the window will not close properly.
At this point, be very carefull as the window and the motor can just fall off and break in your face.
For reassembly, you'll need to pull on the door locking cable and fit it into place or else you won't be able to open the door from the inside of the car again.
This has happened to my wife's 2004 A4 Convertible 2x's. I had to read the owner's manual several times to get the job done correctly (pages in the high 70's to low 80's) ...the following is offered from memory: The handle/tool needed to accomplish the task 'manually' is located in the fuse box on the LEFT SIDE of the dashboard. A small flat blade screwdriver will enable you to pry open the fuse cover & gain access to the handle/tool. Slight twist the tool and it comes out easily. Tool is a "T" shaped handle. Once you have the handle/tool IN HAND, simply turn the RED part (only) on the handle until it 'locks' in an open position. Leaves a small space on the handle. Can't recall if you go clockwise or counterclockwise, but it will be evident. Now...move both front seats forward and tilt them to gain access to rear seat. Remove the ski boot cover in middle of the rear seat and put aside. Then, 'click' the interior boot cover panel down to gain access to a 'hole' (about size of a 50 cent piece) in the top of the boot space. This hole allows you to insert (upward) the above mentioned tool into a lock/unlock mechanism in the rear deck just forward of the trunk. The tool needs to be jiggled to go 'all the way' in...you will sense that. Once in, TURN the RED part of the handle to "LOCK" the handle into the mechanism. The tool will hang down by itself. My approach is to 'store' the roof in the open convertible position first. The front portion of the roof should be partially forward as that appears to 'release' a lever within the roof's up/down mechanism to allow you to raise the rear window portion. Thus, lift (with that friend) the rear window portion up and forward (takes some effort). The roof now has a kind of 'clamshell' appearance front & rear. The front may even flop forward but tht's OK. This step exposes the rear deck. Twist the tool to unlock the rear deck. It should click & release and a small space appears enabling you to use hands (that friend again) under it (the deck). Lift the deck up & back until the hydraulics kick in and keep the deck vertically open. Now you are ready to tackle the roof & rear window for storage under the rear deck cover. Get a friend, if possible to help with the lifting...remember, this is a "Manual" job! Once here, gently push back & lower the rear window portion of the roof into the open storage area simultaneously followed by the remainder of the roof itself. Watch fingers for possible pinching in the levers, etc., during this part of operation Hopefully you now have the roof & rear window stored in the area in front of trunk and be able to lower the rear deck to almost closed position. If so, go back to the tool and twist it to 'lock' the deck in place with roof stored. Remove tool from the ski storage area by reversing procedure above. Now comes the "Moment of Truth"! With the ignition turned on and car running, use the roof switch to bring the stored roof up and all the way to the closed position. Don't forget you must keep your finger on that switch until the operation completely finishes. Then, reverse the process to open & store the roof for a good blow dry (drive)! I hope this helped somebody! Jim [ firstname.lastname@example.org ]
all data online but it requires a subscription autozone uses it though maybe they would look it up for ya
The best way to bleed the system is to make sure the pedal is up off the floor, and the resevior is full, remove the slave from the trans, open the bleeder screw push the rod into the slave, close the screw, let the rod move back out slowley,,, repeat this until the rod is feels solid. Now open the bleeder screw and slide the slave into the trans all the way, then close bleeder screw and install the pin. top of fluid....
Audi RS5 becasue its more stylish and faster and sexier
That noise you're hearing is most likely the wheel bearing. The noise stops because the bearing isn't in motion. As soon as you put the wheel in motion the noise returns due to the bearing being bad. It's a common problem across the board on most Audi's!
a similaar thing happened on my cavalier when the cable snapped, check to see if there is a clutch cable, if the system is hydraulic has something similar happened? loss of hydraulic fluid or the like.
Audis have a hydraulic clutch system, with a master cylinder (in car on firewall) and a slave cylinder (outside on transmission) with a metal tube between them (which looks like a brake line). One of the cylinders may be blown or the trouble could be the clutch itself, but most likely one of the cylinders needs to be rebuilt.
To remove and replace the distributor on the 1988 Audi 90 proceed as follows:1: First remove the cap.2: Take a picture or make a note of the position of the rotor.3: Next before loosening or removing the hold-down bolt, mark the position of the distributor base by scratching or scribing a line from the distributor flange to the engine block. (this will be useful as the approximate location to install the new one).4: Remove the hold-down bolt or nut which ever is used.5: Tap sideway lightly on the distributor housing to break it loose from it bore. Then remove it from the block using care in regards to the oil that may be dripping from the gear at the bottom end.
Installing the new distributor.
1: Place the distributor into the bore while holding the rotor in the position of the old one. (you made a note this of earlier).
2: Be sure to install it so the flange at the bottom of the ditributor housing bottoms on the engine block surface.
3: Install the hold-down clamp and loosly tighten it to hold the distributor from spinning.
4: Install the cap. and you ready to perform the ignition timing adjustment.
I hope this info was helpful.
Owner's manual. Don't have one, get one.
Apart from having the owners manual, which expains the proceedure, you also need the code - Originally supplied with the car paperwork concerning the radio. Finally an Audi dealer can link it all to to their computer and find out the details, but you'll need the Registration V5 Form and a driving Licence or passport with your photo.
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