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When you put the piston rings in several are oil blockers - these make sure the oil doesn't pass them into the combustion chambers - there are gaps on each ring. - you must be 100% sure these gaps [ every other one ] are 180 degrees opposite each other. If not - this allows oil to bypass these small gaps and into the combustion chambers. The only real fix for this is to remove and replace the rings. Also if you didn't replace the valve guides - there are usually rubber caps that can dry out and shrink if off the car out of oil for even a little while. Last but not least check your oil pressure and make sure it is proper poundage - an over pumped system can allow this. Now for the real deal and final part of my answer - the cylinder walls can be warped from over heating or even just age. Well hope this helps. Riceski

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Oil should beclanged every 3k miles . Radiator fluid every 3 years. trans fluid could last as long as 5 years ..remember oil brakes down depending on the mileage you drive. if the car is stored, oil that sits will break down much slower but it will also accumulate moisture witch is worse. all other fluids in any carl should be replaced no more than 5 years. over time you will notice the difference when you have new brake and trans fluid. Good luck

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Owner's manual.

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This was happening to mine so I had a shop put a computer on it and was told that the O2 sensors were out on both manifolds so I bought new ones ($161 each) and installed them and the car runs great now.

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in engine bay fuse board

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this is demand's info on this subject, first check to see if you smell fuel in the engine bay area "over valve cover".if yes this means the fuel is not being burned by the spark plugs....now if you have an extra coil wire for your vehicle "if not you can get 1 at your nearest junkyard" change your coil wire with the spare one....try to start the car,if it starts great..u found the problem.......if the car still does not start ,then put back your original coil wire ....now start your car again listen to the sound while trying to start if its popping or backfiring then you are getting spark to your plugs and the distributor needs ignition timing...located on crank pulley line up white lines "btdc +10 degrees" make sure at this mark your rotor in the distrubitor is pointing directly at the number 1 spark plug connector located on distrubitor.you will need white out to make markings to help and you will need to loosen the bolts on the distrubitor while you twist the distrubitor to get the rotor to point directly at the number 1 plug connector....once done try to start your vehicle....if still no start then you will need to take your vehicle to a an auto mechanic.........

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15

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It's a 15amp Fuse located on the top left corner of the Fuse Panel inside the Cabin under the Glove Box. No tools needed, just undo the 'Shroud' with the 2 knobs, this will expose the Fuse Box , just pull it down and swap in a good fuse and you should be good to go.

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check out this link, mx-3.com/95 manual .... It,s the complete shop manual for the 95 mx3, it should have the info you need.

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on the underside beside on the passenger side middle it is on the back side of the engine, between the engine and firewall, midway up and right behind the alternator. you can see it below the intake runers with a flashlight.

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because your choke may be partly on. == == It could be the centrifugal clutch, it may need adjusting to fully engage at a higher RPM

your engine could be a little cold. my 49cc scooter does the same thing if i just start it and then go. let it run for a minute then try. Your carb could be out of adjustment.Turn the adjusting screw in till my motor revs a little then back it out some but not to much just got to play with the settings to get it right not hard at all, maybe even check the fule filter it could be clogged or cracked.

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== == == == 1.u need to jack the car up so u can take the passenger tire off. align the crank timing mark to top dead center with the front timing belt cover. 2. u need to loosen the crank bolt with am impact wrench, or secure the flywheel and lossen the crank bolt .3. u need a 10mm short 1/4 inch socket/or wrench inch to loosen the (4) water pump nuts. 4. i now recommend u loosen the alternator, u do not need to remove it. 5. if u have air-conditioning..i suggest u leave it on. remove the belt 6. powersteering can be loosened as well, 7. once u remove the crank pulley..u can take the 10 mm blots out of the timing belt/water pump covers.u will also need to support the engine(under the oli pan is ok) and remove the upper passenger side motor mount. 8. u will now see the timing belt. u need to remove it by loosening the tension pulley (14 mmm bolt) .u should make sure the crank is tdc. but u just need to make sure that when u re-install the new timing belt(whichu better do when u do a water pump)...,make sure the exhaust and intake cam shaft pulleys are aligned.(exhaust pulley is front side of car, intake is rear.)(e-for exhaust,i -for intake....they're aligned at center of each other (center of engine)now i must take a pee,brb in a minute. remove timing belt now 9. remove (5) 12 mm bolts from water pump. clean surface. 10. re-install in complete reverse order.i do recommend u use a black rtv gasket sealer on ur water pump gasket.(screw manufacturers statements on this use). tart with taking your two belts off, remove motor mount, remove power steering pump, crank pulley,next remove timing belt covers along with tensioners. Remove valve cover. timing belt tensioner, now you have access to the water pump. remember your timing marks before you remove. When installing timing belt hold camshaffts with vise grips to align. installation opposite of removal.

First of all don't remove your belts until you loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley. I didn't have to remove my p/s pump, just worked around it. I didn't remove my valve covers either, I just had someone else hold the cam gear bolts with wrenches.(NOT VISEGRIPS) you don't want to scratch your cams, or leave metal shavings in your heads. But other than that the previous info is pretty much correct, still recommend a manual.(I used a haynes) worked great after I was done. Not hard, just time consuming.

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The bulb is a separate unit you can purchase for about $7-$25 depending on whether you get the high end, "white lights" or not. It's kind of an odd change, however there is a white plastic retaining ring that loosens in one direction, about a half turn. Then the whole unit pulls straight out. You then simply compress a plastic pinch style clip and remove the old bulb. When you take the new one out of it's box to replace the old one, make sure you don't touch the bulb with your bare fingers. The oil on your fingers can cause the bulb to crack. Good luck.

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In front of the radiator.

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To remove the shift knob on a '95 Mazda MX-3 just twist the knob itself counter clockwise until it comes off!

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There is a filter on the bottom of the fuel pump. You should start your car and then unplug the wiring harness that you see under the rear seat cushion, the car will die after a few seconds. Then turn your key off. What this does is relieve the fuel pressure. You then can disconnect both of the fuel lines. Have a couple of plugs handy to place over the 2 ports that the lines connect too. Then remove the screws that fasten the fuel access port. You can then carefully lift it out of the tank, your fuel pump is attached to this port. On the bottom of the fuel pump you will see a small screened sack, that is the filter. There is also a filter on the fire wall in the engine compartment, at least that is where it is on a 4 cylinder.

The in tank filter is one that most people overlook. It is easy to replace just make sure that the car is well ventilated while you are working and don't smoke while doing the job. You just need to take your time so as not to damage the float assembly that is also attached. After you remove all the screws from the top you just slowly raise it out of the tank, you may have to rotate it a little to get everything out, change the filter and replace everything back the way you removed it.

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The motor on the Mx-3 is an overhead cam engine. Due to the nature of the Mx-3 overhead cam engine, the lifters never need to be tightened. There are spacers in between the valves and the camshaft that do wear out, and will need to be replaced every now and then(many miles may be accumulated before this needs to be done however). Any Mazda dealership, or Mazda certified mechanic can do this, as it takes special tools/knowledge to do so.

The lifters are also hydraulic and automatically adjust. If they are colapsed try using marvel mystery oil.

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This web page will give you all the info you need to preform this repair. MX-3.com/95manual

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check power steering fluid and check to see if battery is good

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www.mx-3.com They have a copy of the factory service manual scanned into their website.... it has all the diagrams of the vacuum lines and other stuff. Good Luck!

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There is a coolant temperature sensor and a temperature gauge sensor. the coolant sensor is located on driver side of the cylinder head. screws right into it, and the temperature gauge sensor is on the front side of the cylinder head right under the distributor. hope this helps

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for 4cylinder engines, the Alt. is located near the bottom of the engine on the passenger side..

for v6, it's located behind the front passenger side headlight.

4cylinder:

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php?file=/1992%20Workshop%20Manual/G92_G-012.gif

v6:

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php?file=/1992%20Workshop%20Manual/G92_G-013.gif

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I just had my clutch redone, and my mechanic found the fuel filter hidden behind the transmission on the underside, near center right in front of the firewall. He obviously changed it while it was accessible, and said he didn't think it's ever been changed due to it's inaccessibility.

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I can only expalin the rear wheel bearing as I replaced the pasenger side on my 92 mx3...It is a single sealed self-contained unit including the bearing, hub and lug assembly. To install, remove the wheel and center dust cap and center spindle nut. It is torqued on quite heavily ( the dearler srfice told me it was a reverse thread, but it is NOT on the right rear side. I do not know about the left(drivers side), but I asssume it is also righty tighty lefty loosey. The assembly slid off easily without a puller and installed easily. A good sign that it the bearing is bad is a grinding noise when the car is rolling, even out of gear. I've replaced both rear wheel bearings, order the assembly complete as described above (some places will try to sell you just a "bearing", that's not applicable in this case)....
Both are standard threads, not reversed, and I am going from memory here (go to www.mx-3.com, click on "Technical" and the "Online Shop Manual" for the exact process), but the torque on these bolts is something like 420lb-ft (tremendous, my very large 1/2" drive torque wrench stopped at 250lb-ft, I hit that, then kept going a bit more, maybe 1/8 turn additional (torque rapidly was ramping up at that point).
Point being, to get these LOOSE, after all this time on the car, for me was a huge challenge. My tips on removal, start by using a large drive (1/2" or larger) breaker bar and axle socket. After jacking the car up SECURELY (it will make sense in a minute as to why), use another floor/hydraulic jack, place the breaker bar in a position that it is lifting "up" to loosen, but pointed below the horizon. Example, on the passenger side, the breaker bar should be pointing to about 4'oclock on the dial. Now use your extra jack, place it under the breaker bar end, and start jacking it up, being very careful to avoid slippage and staying clear in case the bar breaks, flies off the jack, etc (I am not responsible if you get hurt in this process, use common sense)... my car literally was lifting slightly off the jack stands before the bolts finally came loose (mine were not a sharp release, just settled back down, at first I wasn't sure it was loose till a little more work loosened them more clearly).... once you get 1/4-1/2 turn loose, they will probably turn very easily, it's just unfreezing them that's a challenge. Realize, the car weighs probably 500+ lbs on each of the back corners with a full tank, I literally was hanging on the breaker bar (feet off the ground bouncing) and they didn't come loose till I tried this trick (impact wrenches had no effect on the bolts).
Anyhow, you can try other brute force methods, but this method literally was simple, and effortless (once I figured it out), I nearly gave up thinking my breaker bar had reached it's limit as the car started lifting till the bolt finally gave up, and only required about 6" of lift (the 3/4" diameter 2-ft long breaker bar had roughly 4" of deflection before the bolt gave loose.
Once that's done, the parts slip right off, and reassembly is a cinch other than retorquing. Oh, getting the dust cover off to get to the axle bolt is also a pain, mine has a few dents in it after the fact, you'll need a VERY thin, strong wedge/shim of some sort to work under the lip to get it loose, it's a very shallow lip (1/16" or less) but a good solid, corroded-in-place friction fit shoulder about 1/4" deep. Don't bother with using penetrating oil for disassembly (worth it for reassembly), it won't get in there, it's just a patience and tapping process.

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your gonna be able to pick one up at any automotive shop make sure you use the right amp fuse!

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0.039-0.043