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no. it doesnt. in 1st gens they used a 2.2 I4, a 2.2 I4 Turbo and a 3.0 V6. Second gens are 2.0 I4 and a 2.5 V6 DOHC. hope this helps!

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you could have a solid miss or something out of balance like hamonic balancer or bent pulleys bad belt or vaccum leak check spark plugs and vaccum lines first

they will always miss because the engines cold idle is still keeping the engine at that speed until the engine becomes warm enough the moment you touch the pedal it brings the rpm off cold idle to warm which is a lot lower

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My '96 Voyager, w/ 2.4L & 3 speed hydraulic tranny wouldn't go in reverse. I replaced with a rebuilt tranny. I took the old one apart recently to save the internals & do a forensics exam (discarding case since top mount broke in an accident years ago). I found that the rear piston had a torn rubber ring. That likely caused the problem since the rear band controls 1st & reverse. It could have torn from a burr on a side hole, but the rubber looks too soft. I suspect the rubber ring was damaged by adding "stop leak", which I recall I tried since the front seal had been leaking. It didn't fix the leak and I think they work by swelling rubber parts. I will never use it again. I probably caused the front seal leak by beating the crankshaft pulley with a sledgehammer (long story - inadvertently swaged crank to pulley during a timing belt change). I think you can remove the rear piston with the tranny in the vehicle. I didn't pay real close attention, but I think you would have to remove the valve body. Re-installing is trickier than old RWD Torqueflites, as I recall you have to reach above the valve body and pull a spring lever back on the shift detent cam, requiring 3 hands. Anyway, with the piston exposed (after removing band lever), you need to remove a large circlip. I was able to so using needle-nose pliers. You have to wiggle the clip around the piston cover while compressed and it kept popping off my pliers. The proper tool would make it easy. I haven't checked how to get a replacement rubber ring or piston assembly.

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You Start off by taking the CAS (crank angle sensor) out.Then your main pulley must be set to the yellow mark.After that the CAS has 3 dots on the gear it has on the bottom,the one that is at the top of the gear must be set at the mark the CAS has.When your settingthe pulley turn it only clockwise.this is how ido it without tools.Just a 10mm socket and 19mm for the pulley.Your welcome

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on top of the upper intake there is a screw. it can be used to adjust idle speed.

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A hydrolic clutch has a master cylinder on the driver side mounted on the fire wall that is compressed and released by the cluch petal. The hydrolic fluid moves from the master cylinder through a 18 inch long rubber hose to a slave cylinder that is mounted on the engine near the transmission. There the hydrolic fluid presses a shaft out from the slave cylinder that moves a lever that engages and disengages the clutch itself. The cluch is sprung, and presses back against the slave cylinder shaft. An older model RX7 often fails to hold the hydrolic fluid in the master or slave cylinder because the seals fail due to old age and pitting of the walls of the cylinder. Replacing both cylinders and the hose is a normal maintenance replacement, and costs around US$100. If you can bleed brakes you can replace hydrolic clutch cylinders. The bolts for the master cylinder are hard to reach, and are WAY back under the dash. But patience, long fingers, and a good tool set usually can get them off. I have had to cut the old master cylinder off once when the bolts had rusted. It is _not_ recommended to rebuild either cylinder, and if one is old, usually the other is too. There is no point getting stuck somewhere with a faulty cylinder just to save a small amount of money. It is very unlikely that the clutch itself is somehow "frozen". If it is, you will need to pull the engine and remedy the problem, but again, it is very unlikely. If you have a bad apex seal, there is not much point in fixing the clutch. Rebuild or replace the engine first, then deal with the clutch.

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There are two separate fuse boxes in a 1989 RX-7. One is located in the engine compartment, on the driver's side, under a black cover. It contains the main fuses that control engine management, headlights, and other large electrical draws. The second fuse box is under the driver's side dash board, also under a black cover. This contains the smaller fuses for all of the internals of the car, including the turn signals, radio, cigar lighter, and internal lights.

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Bottom of the crankcase near the fuel pump.

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IGNITION SYSTEMThe ignition system is responsible for igniting the air/fuel mixture at the most appropriate time. To understand how the ignition system works in the Mazda rx-7, it is important to have a good understanding of ignition systems in general. We'll start by giving a quick overview of ignition systems and then focus on the particularities of the ignition system in the Mazda rx-7.

This above shows the schematics of a generic ignition system that one could find on many piston engine cars. The Ne signal indicates engine speed. The G1 signal indicates crankshaft angle. With these two sensors, the engine control monitor (ECM) has permanent knowledge of the crankshaft angle and the engine speed and therefore can tell when the spark plugs should be fired for optimum performance. The IGT (ignition timing) signal is a pulse which tells the igniter when the power transistor should switch off the current flowing through the primary winding of the ignition coil. This current is low voltage (12V). When current flows through the primary winding, it creates a magnetic field. When the current flow is cut suddenly, the magnetic field collapses inducing a high voltage current into the secondary winding. This high voltage current creates an arc at the spark and provides ignition. The IGF (ignition feedback) confirms to the ECM that a spark has ocurred.

MAZDA RX-7 IGNITION SYSTEMThere are two rotors in the rotary engine: a front rotor (rotor 1) and a rear rotor (rotor2). Each rotor has three combustion chambers. For each rotor revolution, there are three firing events. The eccentric shaft makes three revolutions for every rotor revolution, in other words, it turns at 1/3 the speed of the rotors. The two rotors are 60 degrees apart from each other.

There are two spark plugs for each rotor. The leading (L) spark plug is the main spark plug. The trailing (T) spark plug is here to complete the burn and reduce emissions. At idle and with no load, the leading spark plug fires at 5 degrees after top dead center (5ATDC) and the trailing spark plug fires at 20 degrees after top dead center (20ATDC). On a rotary engine, top dead center (TDC) happens when the combustion chamber (three per rotors) is centered on the two plugs.

What follows is the electric diagram for the ignition system. This will give clues on how the system functions. Note that the engine control unit (ECU) relies upon an Ne and G signals from the crank angle sensor (CAS) to determine spark firing, as in a generic ignition system. These two signals will not be adressed any further here.

LEADING IGNITIONConsider the leading ignition coil with igniter on the schematics. The B/Y (black with yellow stripe) wire is the 12V primary current supply (from main relay). The G/Y (green with yellow stripe) carries the ignition timing signal (IGT-L) from the ECU. The IGT-L signal is a pulse. When the pulse switches from high to low, the igniter turns off the current in the primary leading coil winding. Since there is only one leading coil and there is no spark distribution, both leading spark plugs are arced. Obviously, one spark is wasted but with no ill effects. The leading ignition system is quite straightforward to comprehend. The trailing ignition system is more complex.

TRAILING IGNITIONThe trailing ignition system is actually a two-coil system (one coil for each rotor). Consider the trailing ignition coil with igniter on the schematics. The B/Y (black with yellow stripe) wire is the 12V primary current supply (from main relay). This wire shows up twice in the wiring diagram since there are two coils. The L/Y (blue with yellow stripe) carries the ignition timing signal (IGT-T) from the ECU. The IGT-T signal is a pulse. The BR/Y (brown with yellow stripe) wire carries the ignition select signal (IGS-T) from the ECU. The IGS-T signal is a pulse. The L/R (blue with red stripe) wire carries the ignition feedback signal (IGF-T) back to the ECU. The IGF-T signal is a pulse (will not be addressed further here). The Y/L (yellow with blue stripe) wire carries a signal to the tachometer and check connector (not discussed further here). There is one ignition timing signal but there are two trailing coils. The ignition select signal tells the igniter which coil the ignition timing signal is for (see RX-7 ignition system for source of information). When the IGS-T signal switches from low to high, trailing coil 1 (for rotor 1) should be fired. When the IGS-T signal switches from high to low, trailing coil 2 (for rotor 2) should be fired.

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1978-1985 Generation 1 (FB/SA) [Series 1,2 and 3] RX-7s did not come with an LSD.

1986-1991 Generation 2 (FC) [Series 4 and 5] did come with LSDs on the turbo models, they differ between the series. Series 4 had a clutch type LSD, while series 5 had a viscous type.

1992-2002 Generation 3 (FD) [Series 6, 7 and 8] came with LSDs all torsion type.

Source:

http://www.allcarwiki.com/wiki/Mazda_RX-7

http://www.allcarwiki.com/wiki/Mazda_RX-7_1st_Generation_Series_1_Specifications

http://www.allcarwiki.com/wiki/Mazda_RX-7_2nd_Generation_Series_4_Specifications

http://www.allcarwiki.com/wiki/Mazda_RX-7_3rd_Generation_Series_8_Specifications

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It does not stand for anything. It is just a chassis code for differing years.

FD3S also just called FD is the 1992-2002 Rx7s.

FC3S, or FC is the 1986-1991 Rx7s.

:)

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Look here: http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-11352.htm Basiclly the sparkplugs fire front then back. The plugs fire at the same time

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I already know what you mean pal. The pulsating you feel when you are cruising is very annoying although it does not effect performance but here's your answer.

Timing and Ignition!!! If you are using low octane such as 89 or even 91, you have to tune your car to run that otherwise you run lean and while you are driving, your car tends to "dehydrate "LOLOL because it's wondering where fuel is.

Also there is a stupid carburetor like function on your intake called "Cold Start Screw" It's ta very tiny screw located on the upper intake between the Idle screw and TPS screw. I back it all the way off because it is a useless piece. The computer makes the engine run at a higher rpm when it's cold and then it goes to operateing temp mode.

Here's a shorter answer for your pumping issue...

Use The octane suggested - 93 octane

Change your Plugs and wires

BIGGEST THING TO CHECK - POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE AND GROUND CABLE: WHEN THE BATTERY CABLE CRAPS OUT, IT TENDS TO GIVE YOU LOW VOLTAGE THUS YOUR SPARK IS NOT HOT ENOUGH AND SO FORTH. WHEN GROUND WIRE CRAPS, YOU SHOULD KNOW WHAT STARTS THEN...

If you choose to use cheap gas, Tune your car to do so and do not believe everyone about using a laptop, they are retards. You tune the car like you would a Carb'd mustang or even a 5.0... Timing light! and you have a distributor but it's actually called a crank sensor.

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it depends, they have to be both the same type of rx-7. cant be using a second gen computer and converting to a third gen.has to be same engine (if turbo u have to get a computer out of a turbo rx-7),everything has to be the same make engine wise. and if manual then it has to have a manual computer like u stated. only if the 93 and 94 are of the same generation RX7. I belive they are both of the 2nd gen... but not sure... this is a great site for 7 owners... www.rxforyour7.com 93-95 are all thrid gens, I myself am not sure it it will work, I dont think this is a good site to ask questions. Go to www.rx7club.com With the Rx-7's it doesn't matter if they are both Manual, there is alot more to it than that. The ECU's differ vastly in different models and often in different years. The part number has to be identical for them to be interchangable. I tried using a different year once with the second gens and it didn't work. I'm not 100% sure but I don't think that 93 to 94 are interchangable. Your best bet is to call mazda.

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yes

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PRY UP THE RETAING CLIPS SECURING THE COVER BAND AROUND THE WINDOW GLASS WITH A SMALL SCREW DRIVER CAREFULLY. LIFT AWAY COVER BAND AND STORE SAFELY OUT OF THE WAY AS THIS CAN EASILY BE BENT. GLASS IS GLUED IN PLACE AND NEEDS TO BE HEATED SLIGHTLY AROUND TOTAL OUTSIDE AREA OF WINDOW TO SOFTEN GLUE. THEN THE WINSIELD CAN BE PRYED OFF SURFACE. CLEAN AWAY ALL OLD GLUE TOTALLY. FOLLOW NEW GLASS INSTRUCTIONS TO INSTALL. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BUMP NEW GLASS ON ANYTHING. I'VE DONE THIS ON MY 93 NISSAN 300ZX. GOOD LUCK. RGL, AKA, RGL

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look for your user manual and it should have it in there. if not look around the engine most likely on the cowling for the rad fan or on the bottom of the hood and it should have a diagram.

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Follow the + battery cable should connect at relay

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There is a short somewhere.

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Rotary engines are actually really reliable and could be as reliable and more reliable than piston engines if taken care of correctly. The reason people have the thought that rotary engines are bad at breaking are mainly because there are a lot of rotary owners that mistreat their engine. If pistons engined were frequently 1k+ past redline consistently like rotary engines are forced to do, they would break often easily as well.

N/A Carbureted Rotary Engines are the most reliable followed by N/A Fuel Injected Engines. Fuel Injected Turbo Engines are least reliable.

Most N/A Fuel injected Rotary engines last 150k-200k+ when taken care of, Turbo Fuel Injected engines last 125-175k average.

I've seen Rotary engines with over 250k original miles. The most important part is taking care of the engine. It's more vital to keep a rotary well maintained as opposed to a piston engine because piston engines actually still run when they're mistreated.

Here are some tips to help improve engine life and STOP flooding from happening and getting it started if it does.

Ok first of all drain and change the oil every 3000 miles NO MATTER WHAT!!! you also have to check the oil every 2-3 fill ups on gas if its low fill it up with mineral oil NOT SYNTHETIC. That will cause flooding if synthetic is put in. Also you have to run the engine hard so every week run it to redline at least once maybe more if your driving it a lot. If your starting it in the cold make sure to let it warm up 10-15 minutes otherwise that will cause flooding too.

How to start the car if flooding occurs. Make sure you have a battery charger in hand cause this will cause your battery to drain. Okay so get in your car with the vehicle still off then mash the gas and then attempt to turn it over (Hold for 10-15 seconds) MAY TAKE A COUPLE TRIES if it does then congrats but don't turn it off, go for a speed drive with it running at redline and then you can go home. If your vehicle didn't turn over then try again if it doesn't work that time then try turning it over without the gas mashed not even in at all. if it doesn't work that time walk a way and come back later. At last resort take it to the dealer to have them fix it. Oh yeah one more thing don't drive your car out of the garage and then turn it off in your drive way immediately that will cause flooding you have to allow the car to reach running temps otherwise it will cause flooding so NEVER turn it on then back off immediately. Good luck with your car after these Tips.

Shutting off a cold rotary can cause carbon lock. Which is a chunk of carbon breaking loose and finding a place to wedge itself and "lock" the rotor up. If you leave the car running, pieces of carbon get broken up and burnt. The synthetic oil theory hasn't been proven yet. I'm running synthetic right now to test it and am having no problems. Theory states the the additives in synthetic can build up in the combustion chamber. I'm unaware if flooding can be a result of synthetic.

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1. Check for vacuum leaks

2. Check to make sure the cold idle screw is not set really high(That's a cause of unknown high idles and why people can't get the car to idle down."

3. TPS sensor could be going out but if already replaced... You need to do a base idle reset.

4. If you are using low grade, cheap gas like 87 or 89 octane, you need to step it up and use the 91 or 93 like the car suggests. I made the same mistake and not my car runs great.

5. Check for positive battery connection. My battery cable is going extremely crappy and when your volts dont run where it should be, the computer runs an rpm increase to prevent your car from dying and all other problems arise then.

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The exhaust produced by the rotary engine can easily excede 1200 degrees. Consequently, the fact that the exhaust runs in close proximity to the transmission tunnel can cause the shifter to heat up during hard driving. The bearing at the crankshaft of the engine where it connects to the transmission can fail causing friction leading to an extreme amount of heat to be transmitted throuh the transmission internals- if the car also gets hard to shift or even locks you out of gear when hot but shifts smoothly when cold (not obviously bad clutch or synchros) this is likely the problem.