The starter is mounted on the drivers side of the engine. Jack your car up and secure it then look at the bottom of the engine from the drivers side. There is removal and installation instructions on Autozone's website

Replace the o2 sensor, and then check your fuel pressure to see if it is working right....however many of us have never been able to completely rid the car of the issue and just accept it as a personality of the car

very very big job!!!!! dont recommend for the novice or driveway mechanic. if you blew your apex seals then you more than likely ruined your intermediate housing and more than likely blew out all the other seals. you will need new housings apex seals, corner seals, side seals etc. to many to name. look into a new engine, much easier.

first need to know at what point did it start acting this way. normally rotarys are very sensitive if not heated up engine tends to flood. check to see if engines flooded first, then check for spark and fuel. same thing happened to my rx-7 found that two injectors were not firing due to bad grounding, which injectors ground through the ecu(computer), determined i had a bad ecu replaced it and runs great.

Microtech. Period.

OBD Standard interfaces didn't become mandatory for manufactures until 1992. There is no Standardized interface for 2nd Gen S4/S5 RX-7's

The rotary engines do not have any type of engine numbers or VIN on them. This is from the fact that they don't have a solid block like piston engines. It is built using several pieces and therefore each piece would have to be labeled and they didn't go through the trouble to do that.

If you are attempting to verify the engine block, you can look on the top of the engine from the driver's side (on the Left hand Drive models) and the will be a 13B or similar stamped on the housings.

Maybe an electrical problem, as far as that. Do you have an after market CD player hooked up.. may be hooked up wrong. Also if there are bare wires, you should cover the tips with black electrical tape.

not sure what year you have but on 1986-1991 it is on the ignition coil closest to the battery

Exactly like bleeding the brakes...

Behind the motor on the drivers side, towards the center of the firewall, you will see a shrader valve (Bleeder) for your clutch. Have another person with you for this.

Have the friend or whoever sit in the drivers seat and you at the bleeder and do the following.

1. Pump the clutch about 6 times and hold (do not release clutch yet)

2. Un-screw the bleeder(DO NOT TAKE IT OFF!!!, JUST UNSCREW ENOUGH UNTIL YOU SEE FLUID COME OUT). Then tighten it back.

NOTE: While bleeding, check the clutch slave cylinder because if that becomes empty, you will have air enter the system fast. so have a large bottle to flush/bleed system.

Repeat step 1 and 2, 3-5 times because you need to make sure you not only flush the system, but get rid of all the air from the system. if you don't then you will be able to shift while driving, then mysteriously you can't get the clutch in unless you "pump the clutch" a million times before you are able to disengage the clutch.

If you know how to bleed brakes, it's EXACTLY THE SAME.

0.29 Imperial gallons.

alot of things, mine was doing this thing where it would not rev over 1500 rpm, i re-tuned it, replaced the throttle position senor, and 02 sensor, if i was you i would try disconnecting the throttle position sensor and see if that helps, that's how i found out mine was bad

Do remember to check your fuel pressure at the injectors. If any of the following are not working right you will see very similar issues and never find the true source until all parts are looked at: Fuel pump might be dieing, fuel filter might be clogged, Fuel pulsation dampaner might be faulty, fuel regulator might be faulty, and the injectors might be worn out and clogged.

2 1/8 I think it's metric actually, but at that size it won't make a difference.

Felix Wankel!

you have to modify UIM and LIM notch the frame of your car. unless you get turbo 2 UIM and LIM but you will still have to modify the manifolds to accept the N/A Block. Also don't scimp on your fuel system.

(I'm in the process of doing this myself)

non turbos should be around $2500 for good shape, and $4000 for a turbo.....

The Rx-7 Veilside you are referring to is just a regular Rx-7 FD3S modified with a Veilside Fortune bodykit. It does nothing in terms of performance. So in conclusion, a Nissan 370z is faster. ( but uglier. what? you didnt see this part.)